Beaujolais
Beaujolais is almost entirely planted with the Gamay grape and produces mostly red wines. Around 70 million litres of Beaujolais are produced each year, or two-and-a-half times the entire wine production of the rest of Burgundy. More than half of this is sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, although an Aladdin's trove of gloriously satisfying wines exist amongst the 10 named village crus that occupy a 15-mile strip of granite hills to the north.
The Beaujolais region occupies 22,000ha between Mâcon and Lyon, and spans 34 miles from north to south. Around 70 million litres of Beaujolais are produced each year, or two-and-a-half times the entire red and white wine production of the rest of Burgundy put together. More than half of this is sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, and released on the third Thursday of November following each harvest.
Beaujolais is almost exclusively planted with the Gamay grape, and produces mostly red wines. A small amount of white Beaujolais is produced from Chardonnay (or Aligoté) while a handful of Beaujolais rosés can also be found.
It is one of life's injustices that this beautiful wine region is forever associated in most people's minds with Beaujolais Nouveau, a thin and dilute wine that has more to do with marketing than actual substance. However there is an Aladdin's trove of gloriously satisfying wines to be found amongst the 10 named village crus that form the spiritual home of the fresh, fruity Gamay grape.
From north to south, St Amour, Juliénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié (a cru since 1988), Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly are situated along the 15-mile strip of granite hills to the north of the region. They range from light, lively and fragrant to rich and velvety. While most Beaujolais should be drunk as soon as possible, the crus are infinitely more concentrated and have much more personality. They can be kept for up to 10 years, at which age the best examples resemble mature Pinot Noir.
At its best simple Beaujolais is fruity and eminently drinkable, especially when lightly-chilled in summer. Most Beaujolais displays a pear-drop edge to its soft red fruit, and often notes of banana and bubble gum too. These traits come largely from the vinification method (semi-carbonic maceration) rather than the Gamay grape itself, where a swift fermentation highlights the aromatics and fruit, while minimising the tannins. Amongst the top crus, however, there has been a return to more traditional Burgundian vinification methods, and even oak ageing.There are five classifications of Beaujolais: Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais, Beaujolais Supérieur, Beaujolais Villages, and the 10 Beaujolais crus. As with the rest of Burgundy, the producer's name on the bottle is often the most important factor.
Recommended producers: Michel Chignard, Jean-Claude Desvignes, Olivier Merlin, Alain Michaud.
Prices:
Bottle
£10.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl62cs
Drinking beautifully in spring 2017 and over the next three years.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£15.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl7cs
Bottle
£16.30
Julien’s holding in Régnié is 1.1-hectare plot (1.45, as of the 2014 vintage), planted with 50-year-old vines, adjacent to Morgon. The wine is a lovely, bright pink-purple with a delicious, gracious, vibrant nose. There are flowers, especially peonies, and a little pink fruit, with just enough structure on the palate and very good length.
Bottle
£17.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
The nose combines flamboyant aromas of strawberry compote, blueberry and more subtle savoury notes, which will become more distinct with the passing years.
The theme of cheerful red and blue fruit continues on the palate. This is riper and less austere than, say, the cuvée Godefroy, but has the same beguiling saline character to the finish.
Try it with carpaccio or tartare de bœuf.
Will Heslop - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£17.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Delicious, fruit-laden vintage such as 2014. Enjoy this vivacious fresh young Beaujolais, full of bright red fruit, now or in the next years to 2018.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Bottle
£18.50
Bottle 12 x 75cl7cs
It is no coincidence then that this fabulous cuvée, from south-facing vines that ripen rapidly in deep, hospitable soils, has a distinct whiff of wood-smoke and caramel. In one of those quirks of terroir and fate that abound in Burgundy and Beaujolais, there is also an unmistakable red-cherry character to both the nose and palate. The long finish delivers a cool cranberry crunch. So, a wine that does – with considerable style – exactly what it says on the label.
Bottle
£19.95
This wine shows the depth and generosity associated with the clay-rich Javernieres vineyard at the foot of the Cote du Py. Rich purple with a most impressive density of fruit, this is but a babe in arms at the moment. And yet, the vast array of fruit in the mouth shows the potential, especially with the very fine long finish. Drink now to 2020.
Bottle
£19.95
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£20.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl33cs
Bottle
£21.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl17cs
The soil in Les Rouchaux is sand on top of blue granite, planted with 70-year-old vines. With a glorious black-purple colour, this is ultra stylish, more compact than 2009 but with grace and length.
Bottle
£22.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
The 2011 has a black purple colour and glorious nose. This is full and complex, a magical and exciting wine, beautifully rich. Tannins are certainly present but not hard and dry. It has a very long aftertaste and all the vibrancy of the best wines of the vintage.
Bottle
£22.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl4cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle
£22.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl91cs
Bottle
£23.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl14cs
The palate is medium-bodied with supple black fruit on the entry, but the back end exerts quite a grip. It does not quite have the panache of other vintages that I have tasted, but it is still an impressive Moulin-à-Vent that will repay those with the patience to cellar for several years.
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
Bottle
£23.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl167cs
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Apr 2015
Bottle
£23.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl61cs
Bottle
£23.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl96cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Bottle
£23.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl214cs
Neal Martin - Wine Advocate - robertparker.com - Dec 2015
Bottle
£27.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl46cs
Magnum
£59.00
Magnum 3 x 150cl3cs
Jancis Robinson MW - jancisrobinson.com - Feb 2016
Magnum
£79.00
Magnum 3 x 150cl3cs
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Bottle 12 x 75cl1cs
Jasper Morris MW, Beaujolais Buying Director
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
Though happily established in Nuits-St Georges, Thibault trained at a viticultural college in Beaujolais where ancestors of his once had vines. Starting with the 2009 vintage, Thibault has begun to build up a portfolio of vineyards within the appellation of Moulin à Vent. His wines are some of the most fabulous we have ever tasted from the region.
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)
This is quite different from the hugely popular 2014, but just as impressive. Aromas of black fruit rather than red predominate and the alcohol, though worn lightly, is 1.5 percent higher – this due to a summer heat wave which worried even the most experienced vignerons in Beaujolais. Young Alexandre held his nerve, waiting for light rain to bring respite to the vines and therefore harvesting unwizened, juicy grapes which account for the winning freshness and sheer drinkability of his wine. A great candidate to be your “house wine” but consider it for grander occasions too.