Beaujolais
Beaujolais is almost entirely planted with the Gamay grape and produces mostly red wines. Around 70 million litres of Beaujolais are produced each year, or two-and-a-half times the entire wine production of the rest of Burgundy. More than half of this is sold as Beaujolais Nouveau, although an Aladdin's trove of gloriously satisfying wines exist amongst the 10 named village crus that occupy a 15-mile strip of granite hills to the north.
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Bottle
£11.50
Case price (12)
£138.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 25cs
£88.08
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Domaine de la Rocaillere,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2016 from Domaine de la Rocaillère is a fruit-driven vin de soif – but one with hidden depths. After all, it’s produced from old vines that are the envy of neighbouring domaines. Expect classic aromas of red fruit and violets, as well as the crisp acidity characteristic of the vintage. This is a great match for classic bistro fare such as steak frites or coq au vin.
Bottle
£11.95
Case price (12)
£143.40
Bottle 12 x 75cl 5cs
£92.64
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Domaine de la Rocaillere,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2017 is the best vintage I’ve tasted of Rocaillère’s old-vine Beaujolais. On the nose, expect aromas of summer pudding and violets, while the palate offers something more profound: grippy tannins and a pronounced mineral character, which speaks of the vineyard’s shallow, rocky (granitic) soils. This super wine is at its vivacious best served lightly chilled, as an accompaniment to charcuterie or hard cheeses.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Bottle
£12.25
Case price (12)
£147.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 17cs
£95.64
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Alexandre Burgaud,
Ready, but will keep,
From the 2017 vintage, Alex’s Beaujolais Lantignié is made exclusively from his oldest and best-sited vines, primarily on blue granite, similar to that found on the Côte du Py (where Alex’s cousin Jean-Marc works his magic). It’s vinified in similar fashion to Alex’s Beaujolais Villages but with a slightly longer maceration, producing a more complex, concentrated wine, with an enchanting, lifted nose, reminiscent of a particularly fine Fleurie. Frankly, this puts most Cru Beaujolais in the shade, and fully endorses Lantignié’s fledgling bid for Cru status. Drink now or cellar for up to three years.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2018)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2018)
Bottle
£13.50
Case price (12)
£162.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 9cs
£108.12
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Domaine Metrat,
Ready, but will keep,
A bouquet of ripe red and blue fruit speaks of the vineyard’s southerly aspect, but this cuvée – a perennial favourite of ours – retains the fresh acidity characteristic of Chiroubles. Sadly, production in 2017 was limited by hail so snap it up. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Bottle
£15.75
Case price (12)
£189.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 12cs
£130.68
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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will keep,
Another success story for the Desvignes siblings, this is a touch fuller than the 2016, owing to a warmer vintage, but with the same bright red fruit character and fresh acidity. Again, its delicate floral aspect points to the location of the vines, in the climat of Douby, adjacent to Fleurie. It’s a versatile food wine, which will enhance – and be enhanced by – any number of styles of cuisine, but I’m plumping for Lincolnshire sausages, fiery mustard and mash.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2018)
UK CUSTOMERS ONLY
Bottle
£15.95
Case price (12)
£191.40
UK CUSTOMERS ONLY
Bottle 12 x 75cl 7cs
£132.60
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Domaine Metrat,
Ready, but will keep,
From the parcel’s oldest vines, this is invariably more concentrated than the standard (non-Vieilles Vignes) Roilette. There’s an attractive savoury note to the nose, as well as the ethereal aromas of flowers and violets synonymous with the best wines of Fleurie. On the palate, expect fresh acidity and fine, chalky tannins. The 2017 is all the more impressive in light of the hail and drought that made for such a challenging vintage.
Will Heslop, Buying Assistant
Will Heslop, Buying Assistant
Bottle
£15.95
Case price (12)
£191.40
Bottle 12 x 75cl 10cs
£132.60
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Bottle
£16.50
Case price (12)
£178.20
Saving
£19.80
Bottle 12 x 75cl 20cs
£121.68
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Jean-Marc Burgaud,
Ready, but will improve,
Jean-Marc’s vines at the top of the Côte du Py suffered from hail on May 19th, so his mid-slope south-facing vines – which, he says, are most expressive of the slope’s famous blue granite – had more of a say than usual in the final blend. While this has a hugely attractive bouquet of berry fruit and flowers, it’s the intense mineral character of the palate that makes a real impression. Expect mouth-watering acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins that soften with time in the glass or decanter. There’s plenty of ripe fruit too, courtesy of a relatively warm growing season. A brilliant wine from one of the finest terroirs in Beaujolais, not to mention one of the finest winemakers.
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant
Bottle
£18.95
Case price (12)
£227.40
Bottle 12 x 75cl 60cs
£162.60
Magnum
£39.95
Case price (6)
£239.70
Magnum 6 x 150cl 5cs
£172.92
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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will improve,
Having recently taken over from their father, brother and sister team Louis-Benoît and Claude- Emmanuelle Desvignes are making some of the most exciting wines in the village of Morgon, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. They make wines without using any oak, allowing the grapes and soil to express themselves.
Medium ruby in colour with vibrant purple highlights, the nose offers lifted, floral top notes and fresh raspberry fruit, while the palate is juicy, crunchy and energetic. There is a gentle sweetness to the red cherry fruit which marries seamlessly with the fine and chalky tannins. Drink now to 2024.
Medium ruby in colour with vibrant purple highlights, the nose offers lifted, floral top notes and fresh raspberry fruit, while the palate is juicy, crunchy and energetic. There is a gentle sweetness to the red cherry fruit which marries seamlessly with the fine and chalky tannins. Drink now to 2024.
UK CUSTOMERS ONLY
Bottle
£19.95
Case price (12)
£239.40
UK CUSTOMERS ONLY
Bottle 12 x 75cl 3cs
£172.68
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Chateau Thivin,
Ready, but will keep,
Exceptionally steep slopes of granite and schist endow the best wines of the Côte de Brouilly with a complexity and minerality rarely found in those of the flatter vineyards of Brouilly (a separate Cru, which loops around the first). In 2017, this cuvée’s mineral core seems enrobed in rich, ripe dark fruit, suggestive of the vines’ location – a south-facing parcel, mid-slope (where cherries once grew, hence the name). It’s a seductive prospect now but will only improve with time in bottle. Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2018)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2018)
Bottle
£22.95
Case price (12)
£275.40
Bottle 12 x 75cl 3cs
£202.68
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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair,
Ready, but will improve,
The Vieilles Vignes is effectively Thibault’s Moulin-à- Vent business card, a blend of 10 parcels spread across seven hectares, with vines between 65 and 105 years of age. The 2016 vintage is the first for which he has used large foudres to raise the wine. There is a wonderful, old-vine intensity and concentration to this wine, great depth of flavour and power, but without reaching excess. The granite soil really comes through on the persistent, saline finish. Drink 2021-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Bottle
£27.95
Case price (6)
£167.70
Bottle 6 x 75cl 47cs
£126.30
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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair,
Ready, but will keep,
Although from the same variety (100 percent Gamay), Thibault Ligier-Belair's concentrated, complex Beaujolais is poles apart from the bright and breezy nouveau style with which most drinkers are familiar. From eight parcels of vines of up to 95 years old, on the nose this shows an appealing hint of reduction which gives way to aromas of kirsch and dark berry fruit. The palate is characteristically mineral and tannic, and will benefit from decanting. Drink now to 2029.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£100.00
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Louis Boillot,
Ready, but will improve,
Louis Boillot's maiden Beaujolais vintage from 4 ha of his own vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent. 50- to 60-year-old vines yielded 39 hl/ha in 2014. Extraction over three weeks in cuve. Maturation was 50% cuve, 50% barrel, of which 20% new, 80% three years old.
Lightish crimson. Lightly smoky and mineral with a hint of oak entwined with the peppery dark-red fruit. Lithe, juicy and delicious but not at all simple. Has both purity of fruit and an expression of origin. A little savoury note on the long finish.
When to drink: 2016 - 2024
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 25 February 2016
Lightish crimson. Lightly smoky and mineral with a hint of oak entwined with the peppery dark-red fruit. Lithe, juicy and delicious but not at all simple. Has both purity of fruit and an expression of origin. A little savoury note on the long finish.
When to drink: 2016 - 2024
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 25 February 2016
New To BBX
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£110.00
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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair,
Ready, but will keep,
This plot is on one of Moulin à Vent’s prime sites, almost next door to Olivier Merlin’s La Rochelle. There is hardly any topsoil and the vines are 80 years old. Fine, bright, full purple in colour, this wine displays a sense of nobility which stands out. An immensely classy bouquet – brilliant, suave, balanced and exceptionally fine on the palate. A wine to lay down.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)
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Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£120.00
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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will keep,
This cuvée on the other hand is built for the long term. The young team of Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes and her brother Benoît are doing a great job here. The very intense jet black colour indicates immediately the concentrated nature of this wine. The nose is almost brutal in its youth, but not to worry: be patient. There is a huge density of flavour, black fruit with a touch of chocolate, real quality on every part of the palate.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
£195.00
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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will keep,
A serious wine from the lower part of the eponymous Côte du Py, on les Javernières exactly. This cuvee is produced from the oldest vines…some were planted in…1914 (the youngest plants being 25+ years old but going to Les Javernières cuvee). South east facing on deep clay rich in iron oxide rich soils and whole bunch fermentations have contributed to give birth to a robust wine packed full character.
Ink black in colour with a profound and rich nose. Full, muscular and tight on the palate, this wine is youth at the moment and requires airing prior to drinking (consider morning for evening drinking – no decanting - at cellar temperature). This is a very promising wine which will develop nicely over the next 10+ years in a good cellar. A characterful example, Beaujolais at its very best!
Francis Huicq, London Shop Manager
A small bottling from some ancient – over 100 year old - vines in the clay-rich Javernieres vineyard at the foot of the famous Cote de Py hill. Despite coming in at just 12.4% alcohol, with no subsequent adjustment, this is utterly black in colour, with incredible density. Tasted from tank it showed a most astonishing density of fruit. One to put away for the long term!
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
Ink black in colour with a profound and rich nose. Full, muscular and tight on the palate, this wine is youth at the moment and requires airing prior to drinking (consider morning for evening drinking – no decanting - at cellar temperature). This is a very promising wine which will develop nicely over the next 10+ years in a good cellar. A characterful example, Beaujolais at its very best!
Francis Huicq, London Shop Manager
A small bottling from some ancient – over 100 year old - vines in the clay-rich Javernieres vineyard at the foot of the famous Cote de Py hill. Despite coming in at just 12.4% alcohol, with no subsequent adjustment, this is utterly black in colour, with incredible density. Tasted from tank it showed a most astonishing density of fruit. One to put away for the long term!
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
New To BBX
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£199.00
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Olivier Merlin,
Ready, but will keep,
Brilliant ruby. Suave red and blue fruit aromas show excellent clarity and are enlivened by smoky mineral and Indian spice flourishes. Sappy, sweet and expansive, offering intense boysenberry, cherry liqueur and floral pastille flavors and a hint of white pepper. Conveys a suave blend of richness and vivacity and finishes with smooth tannins and an intense echo of sweet blue fruit.
92 Points. Drinking window: 2018-2023
Josh Raynolds, vinous.com, June 2016
92 Points. Drinking window: 2018-2023
Josh Raynolds, vinous.com, June 2016
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
£160.00
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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair,
Ready, but will improve,
Thibault has made this cuvée since the 2009 vintage, having identified the site as special and isolated it from the blended Vieilles Vignes wine. The vines are at the bottom of the hill, on quite deep soils with a mix of blue/pink sandy granite and silt. The result is a rounded and soft expression of Moulin-à-Vent, arguably the most approachable of the range. There is a spicy, peppery Syrah note to the nose, then a touch of black olive and rich, concentrated red-black fruit, with sophisticated, silky tannins on the palate. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 12cs
£126.30
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Lafarge Vial,
Ready, but will keep,
The Lafarges used 15 percent whole-bunch across the range in 2016, with a mixture of remontage and gentle pigeage. Having begun the project in 2014 using 228-litre barrels from Domaine Lafarge, they are generally moving towards foudres and larger barrels as they learn more about Gamay on granite soils. This wine comes from just over a hectare of 60-year-old vines planted on decomposed granite soils on a steep slope opposite La Madone. There is lovely purity on the nose, while the palate is complex and fine, with rounded tannins. There is a good weight of crunchy red-berry fruit and a firm but precise granitic structure which points to good ageing potential. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
The excellence of Cru Beaujolais is something I have held dear for some time, but its ageing potential was first brought to my attention when I was served two Moulin-à-Vent wines from 1961 and 1962 produced by Camille Giroud. The freshness and complexity of these wines was simply astonishing and I have since made it something of a personal mission to return these great wines to their rightful place in the cellars and on the tables of the most discerning wine drinkers. The wines in our offer cover a range of styles; whole-bunch, de-stemmed, oaked, unoaked, elegant and floral, dense and structured. This almost endless variety and versatility is what is most fascinating about Gamay grown on Beaujolais’s volcanic soils. What the wines have in common, however, is that they all offer excellent value for money and great drinking pleasure.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£175.00
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Olivier Merlin,
Ready, but will improve,
WOW! Or should that be WAW (What A Wine!)? 2015 was lauded as a great vintage in Beaujolais, producing wines of tremendous concentration which, in most cases, will benefit from lengthy cellaring. Olivier’s superb La Rochelle is bound to age well – as it always does – but isn’t necessarily typical of the vintage: tasting this wine, finesse is the first descriptor that comes to mind, rather than concentration or power. It’s positively aérien, with red fruit and floral notes to the fore. Olivier has gradually reduced the amount of new oak on this cuvée, and that seems a wise decision.
La Rochelle is an extraordinary vineyard for numerous reasons. Its eighty-year old vines are planted at a density of 12,000 per hectare (10,000 gives one metre between each vine). The granite bedrock lies close enough to the surface to peak through in places. The consequences for us, the lucky drinkers, include a pronounced mineral character to wine. In a warm vintage like 2015, it renders La Rochelle reminiscent of something from the Northern Rhône – let’s not forget, Moulin à Vent is, geographically, much closer to Côte-Rôtie than the Côte d’Or.
In short, this is a cheerful, supremely enjoyable wine, with a rare degree of complexity and serious capacity to develop over the next decade and beyond.
Will Heslop, Buyer. Berry Bros. & Rudd
La Rochelle is an extraordinary vineyard for numerous reasons. Its eighty-year old vines are planted at a density of 12,000 per hectare (10,000 gives one metre between each vine). The granite bedrock lies close enough to the surface to peak through in places. The consequences for us, the lucky drinkers, include a pronounced mineral character to wine. In a warm vintage like 2015, it renders La Rochelle reminiscent of something from the Northern Rhône – let’s not forget, Moulin à Vent is, geographically, much closer to Côte-Rôtie than the Côte d’Or.
In short, this is a cheerful, supremely enjoyable wine, with a rare degree of complexity and serious capacity to develop over the next decade and beyond.
Will Heslop, Buyer. Berry Bros. & Rudd
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£250.00
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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
For laying down,
This extraordinary cuvée is made from the domaine’s oldest vines, some planted in 1914, in the heavy clay and iron-oxide soils of the lieu-dit Javernières, at the foot of the Côte du Py. Yields here are never greater than 25hl/ha, resulting in a wine of exceptional concentration. True to form, the 2017 is dense and powerful, yet somehow light on its feet, with a freshness that escaped many 2017s (a relatively warm, dry vintage).
The black sheep on the label is an homage to Louis Claude Desvignes, father of Louis-Benoît and Claude-Emmanuelle, who was a vocal opponent of the industrial methods – notably thermovinification – prevalent in Beaujolais in the 1980s. Accordingly, this cuvée is made in the traditional méthode beaujolaise: semi-carbonic maceration, prior to 16 months’ maturation in large concrete vats. Drink 2019-2030.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2018)
UK CUSTOMERS ONLY
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£280.00
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Lafarge Vial,
Ready, but will improve,
From a parcel totalling 0.66 hectares, these 55-yearold vines are planted on blue granite soil on the Mont de Brouilly. A quarter was whole-bunch fermented. The nose has rich, almost black fruit and a touch of garrigue spice, while the palate is stony with meaty black cherry and a firm, mineral texture. Drink 2021-2028.
Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.
Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964
Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.
Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964
En Primeur
Bottle 6 x 75cl 43cs
£141.00
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En Primeur
Bottle 6 x 75cl 187cs
£96.00
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Louis Boillot,
Ready, but will improve,
This powerful, concentrated Moulin-à-Vent is distinctly Burgundian in style. The grapes are 100% de-stemmed, and the wine raised in 500-litre barrels (around 10% new). Expect aromas of juicy dark fruit, savoury spice and cola. The tannins are more supple than in the equally excellent Brussellions, suggesting this will be ready to drink a little earlier. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
En Primeur
Bottle 6 x 75cl 183cs
£81.00
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Louis Boillot,
Ready, but will improve,
Brussellions is a mean-looking vineyard with grey, sandy soils and frequent outcrops of reddish granite, but this is the sort of site on which Gamay shines. The 2017 Brussellions from Clément Boillot (son of Louis) is a case in point. Raised in 500-litre oak barrels, it is rich and structured, with assertive tannins and an emphasis on black fruit and herbal aromas. It will reward cellaring for up to a decade. Drink 2020-2027.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
En Primeur
Bottle 6 x 75cl 177cs
£105.00
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New To BBX
Magnum 3 x 150cl 1cs
£190.00
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Olivier Merlin,
Ready, but will keep,
Moulin-à-Vent was badly hailed in 2017, so Olivier did not make a bottling of his single-vineyard La Rochelle, instead blending the fruit into this single bottling. Théo looked after the vinification, de-stemming the fruit and using very gentle extraction to produce a gorgeous, pretty wine with rich red and black cherry, white pepper and a concentrated but fresh feel. Drink 2019-2025.
Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.
Olivier is taking many steps to counteract the warmer summers and earlier harvests; managing the canopy to protect grapes from sunburn, using late-ripening rootstocks, reducing the amount of new oak he uses to keep the wines feeling fresher, and bringing harvest dates forward to retain acidity. The 2017 crop is around 15 percent down due to the dry summer which stressed the grapes. Picking began on 27th August and Olivier feels the wines are a little richer than 2016, but still with very good balance and well-integrated oak.
En Primeur
Bottle 12 x 75cl 44cs
£132.00
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Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
£370.00
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Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant, autumn 2018