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Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will keep,
Grown in the climat of Douby, which borders Fleurie, this combines Fleurie’s fresh, floral charm with the structure one expects from a Morgon (particularly from this fabled producer). The 2018 is particularly successful, with generous ripe red-fruit flavours wrapped around a cooling mineral core – a calling card of old-vine Gamay on granite slopes. Like all the Desvignes’s wines, La Voûte is made by semi-carbonic maceration in concrete vats, but the maceration is shorter than for the more extracted, long-lived Javernières or Les Impénitents. Drink it lightly chilled with anything porky or – a slightly less predictable pairing – chilli con carne. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (October 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (October 2019)
Jean-Marc Burgaud,
Ready, but will improve,
Jean-Marc’s vines at the top of the Côte du Py suffered from hail on May 19th, so his mid-slope south-facing vines – which, he says, are most expressive of the slope’s famous blue granite – had more of a say than usual in the final blend. While this has a hugely attractive bouquet of berry fruit and flowers, it’s the intense mineral character of the palate that makes a real impression. Expect mouth-watering acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins that soften with time in the glass or decanter. There’s plenty of ripe fruit too, courtesy of a relatively warm growing season. A brilliant wine from one of the finest terroirs in Beaujolais, not to mention one of the finest winemakers.
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant
Will Heslop – Burgundy Buying Assistant
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will improve,
Less concentrated than the Montpelain, but more outgoing, this is a bright, juicy Morgon for early to medium-term drinking. It hails from a sandy, southeast-facing parcel at over 450 metres’ altitude, where the grapes retain plenty of acidity even in warmer vintages like 2018. It’s initially characterised by ripe red berry aromas and supple, easy-going tannins, but linger over the glass and subtle notes of blackcurrant leaf and grilled meat begin to emerge. Great with bangers and mash, it’s epic with saucisse lyonnaise cooked in the wine itself. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will improve,
Montpelain hails from the eponymous vineyard, whose distinctive soil – rich in manganese – explains the difference between this wine and the equally excellent Corcelette. Both wines are made the same way, namely semi-carbonic maceration in open-top concrete vats, prior to six months’ ageing also in concrete. Montpelain, however, has a darker fruit profile, with aromas of dried flowers and an engaging herbaceous character to the finish. It’s a sure-fire hit with charcuterie, but also a useful match for meatier fish dishes such as poached halibut. Drink now to 2026.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (autumn 2019)
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will improve,
Having recently taken over from their father, brother and sister team Louis-Benoît and Claude- Emmanuelle Desvignes are making some of the most exciting wines in the village of Morgon, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. They make wines without using any oak, allowing the grapes and soil to express themselves.
Medium ruby in colour with vibrant purple highlights, the nose offers lifted, floral top notes and fresh raspberry fruit, while the palate is juicy, crunchy and energetic. There is a gentle sweetness to the red cherry fruit which marries seamlessly with the fine and chalky tannins. Drink now to 2024.
Medium ruby in colour with vibrant purple highlights, the nose offers lifted, floral top notes and fresh raspberry fruit, while the palate is juicy, crunchy and energetic. There is a gentle sweetness to the red cherry fruit which marries seamlessly with the fine and chalky tannins. Drink now to 2024.
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will improve,
This is a powerful, voluptuous Morgon from clay-rich soils at the foot of the Côte du Py. For all its concentration, the 2018 is approachable now – its supple tannins and ripe fruit profile are characteristic of the warm, dry ’18 vintage. There are subtle hints of black fruit and spice here, but ripe red fruit aromas take centre stage for the time being. But this is categorically a wine that will pinote or Morgonne (come to resemble Pinot rather than Gamay) over time. Have no qualms about cellaring it for eight to 10 years. Drink now to 2028.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
Ready, but will keep,
This cuvée on the other hand is built for the long term. The young team of Claude-Emmanuelle Desvignes and her brother Benoît are doing a great job here. The very intense jet black colour indicates immediately the concentrated nature of this wine. The nose is almost brutal in its youth, but not to worry: be patient. There is a huge density of flavour, black fruit with a touch of chocolate, real quality on every part of the palate.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Beaujolais Buyer, October 2012
Domaine Louis Claude Desvignes,
For laying down,
This extraordinary cuvée is made from the domaine’s oldest vines, some planted in 1914, in the heavy clay and iron-oxide soils of the lieu-dit Javernières, at the foot of the Côte du Py. Yields here are never greater than 25hl/ha, resulting in a wine of exceptional concentration. True to form, the 2017 is dense and powerful, yet somehow light on its feet, with a freshness that escaped many 2017s (a relatively warm, dry vintage).
The black sheep on the label is an homage to Louis Claude Desvignes, father of Louis-Benoît and Claude-Emmanuelle, who was a vocal opponent of the industrial methods – notably thermovinification – prevalent in Beaujolais in the 1980s. Accordingly, this cuvée is made in the traditional méthode beaujolaise: semi-carbonic maceration, prior to 16 months’ maturation in large concrete vats. Drink 2019-2030.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2018)
Showing 1-15 out of 15 items
Adam Bruntlett -Wine Buyer