Fleurie

A bouquet of ripe red and blue fruit speaks of the vineyard’s southerly aspect, but this cuvée – a perennial favourite of ours – retains the fresh acidity characteristic of Chiroubles. Sadly, production in 2017 was limited by hail so snap it up. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)

Bernard Métrat remains as modest as ever, but his wines go from strength to strength. The 2018 Roilette has a complex bouquet of violets, red and black berry fruit, cola and a hint of black pepper which, Bernard points out, is characteristic of the eponymous vineyard. The 2018 vintage’s warm, dry summer has imbued this wine with exceptionally supple tannins, but it doesn’t lack for freshness – the 60-year-old vines here have roots deep enough to access water even in a drought. Try it with crispy duck pancakes (but go easy on the plum sauce). Drink now to 2023. 
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

Chiroubles is the highest in altitude and perhaps most picturesque of the Beaujolais crus. Altitude – and the cool nights it engenders – is key in warm vintages such as 2018, and particularly for this wine, which hails from a sun-kissed south-facing slope, formerly known as Côte-Rôtie. The southerly aspect delivers ripe red-fruit aromas, with hints of cola and spice (a hallmark of this wine, Bernard notes), counterbalanced by refreshing acidity and an appetising cherry-stone minerality to the finish. Try it with tartare or carpaccio of beef or (more likely in my house) cold roast beef sandwiches. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (October 2019)

This exceptional Fleurie combines the lifted, floral bouquet typical of the appellation with the density of fruit and tannin specific to the south-facing Moriers vineyard. Drink 2019 to 2025.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (spring 2019)

Julien’s Fleurie is his signature cuvée – and is one of our favourite wines from all Beaujolais. It’s made from grapes grown in two organic-certified parcels on steep slopes in the lieux-dits of La Tonne and Grand Prés. Ageing takes place in oak barrels that are around 10 years old. The resulting wine is intensely aromatic, with an ever-changing bouquet including summer pudding and violets. While the nose becomes more expressive with time in the glass, the palate seems to become more precise: there’s a cool, mineral thread beneath this wine’s voluptuous exterior. Served lightly chilled, it’s a fabulous accompaniment to cold or barbecued meats. Drink now to 2022.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)

Thanks to the hail, this is a blend of three lieux-dits – Bel Air, Cercillon and Joie du Palais – which were harvested at a minuscule 8hl/ha. The fruit was all de-stemmed and raised in 350-litre barrels (because there wasn’t enough to go into a foudre). The result is unsurprisingly concentrated with lots of red fruit, plenty of weight and a finish of granitic tannins. Drink 2020-2025.

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.

Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964.