2022 Côte de Brouilly, Les Griottes de Brulhié, Château Thivin, Beaujolais

Chateau Thivin

Château Thivin, located in the Côte de Brouilly, is renowned for its distinctive volcanic soils and early-ripening fruit. This small appellation, one of the ten Beaujolais Crus, offers a unique terroir expertly showcased through the estate's various single-vineyard cuvées. Each of the estate's ten plots, spread around the steep hill of Côte de Brouilly, brings its own character, combining to create fresh, structured, and concentrated wines, making them appealing both in youth and with age.

Owned by the Geoffray family since 1877, the estate is managed by fifth-generation Claude and Evelyne Geoffray, along with their son Claude-Edouard and daughter-in-law Sonia. Château Thivin spans 27 hectares across more than ten distinct plots in Côte de Brouilly, with additional plots in Brouilly and Theizé. The estate produces at least five single-vineyard cuvées each vintage, along with their flagship blend, Sept Vignes, which harmoniously combines the characteristics of seven different parcels.

The vineyards feature the three signature soil types of the appellation: blue volcanic rock, granite, and clay/limestone, supporting primarily Gamay and Chardonnay. Sustainable viticulture practices are a hallmark of Château Thivin, including grass between vines to prevent erosion, encourage soil health, and use pygmy sheep for winter grass control. Grapes are sorted meticulously and vinified separately in cement cuves, aged in foudres for six to twelve months. Certified by Terra Vitis and transitioning to organic farming, the winery also employs biodynamic practices like bottling at the full moon.

Côte de Brouilly

The Côte de Brouilly is one of the most distinguished among the ten Beaujolais Crus, located in the heart of the Beaujolais region in eastern France. This small but significant appellation is set on the slopes of Mont Brouilly, an extinct volcano, which imparts a unique character to the wines produced here. The terroir of Côte de Brouilly is defined by its blue volcanic rock and granite soils, which contribute to the wines' distinctive mineral quality and complexity.

Viticulture in Côte de Brouilly benefits from the varied topography and microclimates around the hill, allowing for optimal ripening conditions for the Gamay grape, the predominant variety grown in the region. These volcanic and granite soils provide excellent drainage and encourage deep root systems, which help the vines withstand drought and produce concentrated, flavourful grapes. The result is wines with notable freshness, structure, and a distinct minerality that are enjoyable when young and capable of ageing gracefully.

The wines of Côte de Brouilly are characterised by their vibrant fruit flavours, often showcasing red berries, cherries, and a hint of spice. The volcanic influence adds a subtle smoky note, enhancing the complexity and depth of the wines. The region's unwavering commitment to quality viticulture is evident in the meticulous care taken in the vineyards, where sustainable practices are increasingly adopted to preserve the health of the soils and the environment, ensuring a high standard of the wines.

Gamay

A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.

The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.

Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.