Bourgogne

Once again we have worked with our trusted friends Jean-Luc Terrier and Christian Collovray to create this delicious expression of mineral Burgundian Chardonnay. With delicate floral aromas, the palate abounds with vibrant citrus and peach fruit, finishing on a subtle, smoky note thanks to well-judged oak. An excellent aperitif, a fresh, crisp profile makes this an ideal match for salads, seafood and lighter meat dishes.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Our Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir is a new addition to our own-label range, made from 100 percent Côte d’Or fruit to obtain this prestigious new appellation (which only came into existence from the 2017 vintage). The fruit is in fact declassified Chorey-lès-Beaune, from very old vines and sourced with the help of star négociant Benjamin Leroux exclusively for Berry Bros. & Rudd. Unsurprisingly, the wine offers remarkable complexity, with pretty, floral top-notes accompanying the charming red-berry fruit. Elegant and delicate, this is Burgundian Pinot Noir in its most elemental expression.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Digioia-Royer: the name may not trip off the tongue, but the wines dance across it. Run by Michel Digioia, this is a tiny estate based in Chambolle-Musigny. Michel has a small parcel of Chambolle and even smaller plots of Premier Cru Nuits-St Georges, but the majority of his holdings fall under the appellation of Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits.

This wine is made from a single parcel, planted in the 1950s, whose altitude (a relatively lofty 350 metres) results in wines with crunchy acidity and a real sense of energy. On the nose, expect aromas of blackberry and cherry. The tannins have softened with a few years in bottle, but there’s still satisfying grip to the palate, which makes this a rewarding match for meaty dishes. Drink now to 2024.

The frost damage of 2016 has necessitated a different blend this year, but the result is exciting nonetheless. The 2016 cuvée includes some vineyards Thibault is now looking after in Chambolle, adding a touch of class to the mix, and giving a wine with pretty red fruit, a floral lift and surprising depth. This is not a wine of great body, but there is good length and a certain elegance. Drink 2018-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.

Olivier, nephew of the great Anne-Claude Leflaive, managed Domaine Leflaive for almost 15 years up to 1994. Since then, Olivier has focused on his négociant business, buying fruit from a small number of trusted growers. The wines are made at his impressive premises in the village of Puligny-Montrachet.

From eight separate parcels in the village of Puligny- Montrachet, this cuvée is hand harvested and raised for 12 months in barrels (15 percent new). Although Oncle Vincent – so named in honour of Olivier’s uncle – qualifies “only” as a Bourgogne Blanc, it can go toe-to-toe with many Puligny, thanks to its exceptional complexity, purity of fruit and freshness. A stunning wine, with a bright future. Drink now to 2023.

The heart of this cuvée is a Volnay Bourgogne lieu-dit, Les Longbois, and various parcels around Puligny. The nose is deliciously expressive, with lots of raspberry and strawberry fruit; only the slightly chew y tannins indicate that this is not a village wine. But that is not a criticism; well-made Bourgogne is a great litmus test for a domaine ’s abilities, and this receives the same amount of care as every other wine in the De Montille portfolio. Drink 2018-2022.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Although it has vines up to 80 years old, the vineyard used to be an orchard, so cannot claim Puligny village status. The fruit was harvested on 18th September, then went into 600-litre barrels (10 percent new) and stainless steel. The resultant wine carries the village character with minerality over body or obvious fruit – austere in an appropriate way. A neat and purposeful wine. Drink 2019-2021.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Château de Puligny-Montrachet was a slumbering force until finally being awoken by the arrival of Étienne de Montille in time to oversee the 2001 vintage. Under Étienne, yields have been drastically reduced and the wines are handled much more sympathetically in the cellar so that the quality of the fruit dominates the oak. In 2012 Étienne and investors purchased the property and have radically reformed the estate, dropping unsuitable vineyards, converting to organic (and indeed biodynamic) farming, and further improving the winemaking. It was a successful vintage here in terms of quality, under the eye of cellar master Brian Sieve. He recounts how the lower slopes of Puligny-Montrachet and the Bourgogne Blanc vineyards on the plain escaped nearly all the frost, but the lower Meursault vineyards were almost entirely affected. For Château de Puligny-Montrachet, this is a good vintage – maybe lacking the flesh of a truly great year, but equally delicious in its accessibility. Not all the vineyards suffered, but there were, nevertheless, some serious reductions in certain sites.

The 50-year-old vines that go into this cuvée sit at each end of the Vosne-Romanée appellation. Harvested at just 25hl/ha, there is an added layer of concentration this year, while maintaining the sensual, floral elegance I associate with this mini-Vosne. Beautiful. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.

Pure mid-purple, this is a baby Chambolle from Les Bons Bâtons. The wine is seductive, with fresh crunchy acidity, but not too much for the fruit with which it is steadily integrating. Lovely finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

The older vines here date back to 1937. A fine, pale colour with the faintest green tint, this has a juicy, grapey luscious nose, a real treat. With good acidity, it has a little bit of heat but stays fresh behind thanks to some racy lime-juice notes. Drink 2018-2020.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Vougeraie’s classic take on Bourgogne Rouge incorporates a good percentage of village wine. Glowing pink-purple, this has a nice lick of oak, lively fresh fruit; very easy-going through the middle, the wine has excellent persistence. Very good! Drink 2018-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Given that the sugar levels are not high in 2011, Ghislaine Barthod expected something lighter this year. However, the wines have come out with good texture and density. While accessible in the medium term, they show an attractive freshness and energy which puts them into a different class from the attractive 2007s. Chambolle-Musigny has done well in 2011, since the style of the appellation appreciates the fresher aspect of lower alcohol levels.

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With lovely lifted red fruit, this is really pretty and attractive beneath, with the welcome freshness of the vintage shining through.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director

Christian Sérafin notes that 2011 was a surprising year, with results much better than expected. These are elegant wines even by Sérafins standards and since Frédérique, Christian’s niece, has been responsible for vinification, the wines have been showing a fresher style, with slightly suppler tannins. Christian is partly retired, though he still looks after his favourite Cazetiers vineyard, as well as conducting tastings in the cellars. There is a bit more volume available than in the 2010s.

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With real elegance to the nose and impressive weight for Bourgogne, it has some tannins behind for structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director