Bourgogne Rouge

Our Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir is a new addition to our own-label range, made from 100 percent Côte d’Or fruit to obtain this prestigious new appellation (which only came into existence from the 2017 vintage). The fruit is in fact declassified Chorey-lès-Beaune, from very old vines and sourced with the help of star négociant Benjamin Leroux exclusively for Berry Bros. & Rudd. Unsurprisingly, the wine offers remarkable complexity, with pretty, floral top-notes accompanying the charming red-berry fruit. Elegant and delicate, this is Burgundian Pinot Noir in its most elemental expression.
Adam Bruntlett - Wine Buyer

A red-purple hue with attractive fruit, flora and gentle in the mouth. There is refreshing acidity behind, but the lovely floral notes win out. High class Bourgogne. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Harvest began during the last week in September and finished just before the storm. There was less whole bunch vinification for the wines affected by hail, but Volnay Taillepieds, Pommard Rugiens, Corton Clos du Roi and the wines from the Côte de Nuits were all predominantly vinified with their stems.
 

Sophie and Mathieu buy the grapes for this cuvée from a friend who shares their meticulous approach in the vineyards. Aged for 12 months in old oak barrels, there’s a seductive, untamed character to this wine, beginning with its spice and red berry aromas. At three years old, the tannins remain satisfyingly assertive, whetting the appetite for a dish of red meat or hard, strong cheese.

Olivier replanted the previous, inferior vines with cuttings of Pinot Fin taken from the Clos des Epeneaux 20 years ago. Pale ruby in colour, this is an elegant, delicate expression of Pinot Noir, full of red berry fruit and silky tannins. The limestone adds complexity in the form of fine, chalky tannins. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

An extraordinary Bourgogne Rouge, this is made only from vines planted in 1947 on oolitic limestone, just outside Marsannay. There are some intriguing smoky notes, with echoes of coffee and caramel. In many ways, it is the even more hirsute cousin of the Clos du Roy. A unique and fascinating wine. Drink 2019-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.

As ever, this is a Bourgogne which punches significantly above its weight. A good dollop of Savigny, Santenay, Beaune, Monthélie and St Romain make their way into the blend, not as off-cuts, but because Ben sees this as his vinous business card. Raised in large foudres, this is as gorgeous as ever, with an incredible purity of juicy, red berry fruit. The quintessence of Burgundian Pinot Noir. Drink 2018-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

This is an assemblage of offcuts, with fruit sourced from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Gevrey Evocelles, Nuits Thorey, Beaune Montée Rouge and Volnay; so it boxes way above its weight. This source quality also allows techniques that would be overkill on simpler wines. This has one-third whole-bunch and the result is a simply delicious – lush and ripe, open and honest Pinot Noir. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Based in Premeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines have subsequently been made by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages. This is Pierre Vincent’s last vintage, as he is now installed at Domaine Leflaive. Vougeraie is very happy with this year’s result, another domaine to call the vintage “très Bourguigonne”, meaning that the precision and purity of the fruit means this is more terroir-focused than 2015’s broader and more intense style. They are also very happy with the way the frosted and non-frosted vines finally ripened homogenously, giving much of the credit to their biodynamic culture. Given the health of the berries, a lot of whole bunches were used at fermentation.

The 50-year-old vines that go into this cuvée sit at each end of the Vosne-Romanée appellation. Harvested at just 25hl/ha, there is an added layer of concentration this year, while maintaining the sensual, floral elegance I associate with this mini-Vosne. Beautiful. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.

From an excellent vineyard across the way from Chambolle-Musigny, this is bright pink-purple. An immediate, vigorous, bouncing wine emerges. The wine has super deep raspberry fruit with excellent but not trenchant acidity and a racy finish. Yes, please.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Vougeraie’s classic take on Bourgogne Rouge incorporates a good percentage of village wine. Glowing pink-purple, this has a nice lick of oak, lively fresh fruit; very easy-going through the middle, the wine has excellent persistence. Very good! Drink 2018-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

With lovely lifted red fruit, this is really pretty and attractive beneath, with the welcome freshness of the vintage shining through.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director Given that the sugar levels are not high in 2011, Ghislaine Barthod expected something lighter this year. However, the wines have come out with good texture and density. While accessible in the medium term, they show an attractive freshness and energy which puts them into a different class from the attractive 2007s. Chambolle-Musigny has done well in 2011, since the style of the appellation appreciates the fresher aspect of lower alcohol levels.

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Lovely bright pink-purple, this has a light but fragrant bouquet, while the Pinot delivers beautifully on the palate, the fruit and acidity totally integrated. Deep raspberry notes, a lovely crunchy texture. Very long for the appellation, with great ageing potential.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Despite this being a very late season, Patrice compares 2013 to the fruit of early vintages such as 2007 and 2011, but with more stuffing. It also reminds him of 1980, a particularly successful vintage chez Rion. The 2013 crop is a small one though, a touch more than 2012 but less than 2011. They employed two sorting tables, and since the grapes which reached the vats were all healthy, they used less sulphur during vinification.

With real elegance to the nose and impressive weight for Bourgogne, it has some tannins behind for structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director
Christian Sérafin notes that 2011 was a surprising year, with results much better than expected. These are elegant wines even by Sérafins standards and since Frédérique, Christian’s niece, has been responsible for vinification, the wines have been showing a fresher style, with slightly suppler tannins. Christian is partly retired, though he still looks after his favourite Cazetiers vineyard, as well as conducting tastings in the cellars. There is a bit more volume available than in the 2010s.

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You are getting your money’s worth, as this includes some Beaune and Santenay La Comme 1er Cru. Pale and attractive purple in colour, the fruit and oak blend together nicely, with very pretty middleweight fruit right across the palate and a persistent finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.

A light red purple with the most deliciously fragrant bouquet, there is a lovely mix of fruit and the savoury character typical of Gevrey-Chambertin on the palate. Already a delicious wine though with potential for further growth.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Director

 

Burgundy 2011 En Primeur Affordable Gems

Always a favourite of the Fine Wine team, with this year being no different, this is full of red berry fruit with a cool, pure finish that is the hallmark of the vintage. Outstanding for Bourgogne Rouge.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

Bottled as usual with a stelvin screwcap to retain freshness, this has rich, vibrant fruit and is quite dark in style. The middle is plump and is followed by a fine, long finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Patrice and son Maxime Rion are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. The results are impressive; in 2011 the wines have come in naturally at around 12.5% alcohol and they show a true sense of balance. 

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Fresh and vibrant, this is a charming Bourgogne Rouge packed full of pretty floral and red berry fruit character.
Alice Cave, London Shop

A Bourgogne Rouge of brilliant concentration, tasting well above its station. This shows bouncing energy, full of fruit and fun. Great length and only two barrels made, alas.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Thibault’s two domaines, based in Moulin à Vent and Nuits-St Georges, both returned paltry yields of 16 hl/ha in 2012. Among the Côte d’Or appellations, the Hautes Côtes, Nuits and Gevrey-Chambertin suffered in particular. All of which is a great shame, given the quality of the wines which have been made. Even where Thibault purchases grapes (Aloxe-Corton and Chambolle- Musigny), Thibault makes the major decisions in the vineyard management. His own vines are farmed biodynamically, with ploughing by horse.

One-third domaine Bourgogne fruit is supplemented by purchased grapes from Marsannay, Ladoix and Beaune. A fine, bright, dark colour, with an immediate wealth of fruit on the nose and in the mouth, this is sumptuous and full of life. Plump yet gorgeous. Drink 2018-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Brilliant purple, this has huge energy, lots of vivacity and real crunch. Major league wine here; it doesn’t seem like a simple Bourgogne at all and should have excellent keeping qualities. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Rich, friendly purple with an attractive perfume, this is tight and concentrated, the fruit balanced by quite high acidity which will soon resolve into the heart of the wine. This is very backward but highly promising, especially given its provenance from the Bons Bâtons vineyard. Drink 2020-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now.