Bourgogne Rouge

Sophie and Mathieu buy the grapes for this cuvée from a friend who shares their meticulous approach in the vineyards. Aged for 12 months in old oak barrels, there’s a seductive, untamed character to this wine, beginning with its spice and red berry aromas. At three years old, the tannins remain satisfyingly assertive, whetting the appetite for a dish of red meat or hard, strong cheese.

Olivier replanted the previous, inferior vines with cuttings of Pinot Fin taken from the Clos des Epeneaux 20 years ago. Pale ruby in colour, this is an elegant, delicate expression of Pinot Noir, full of red berry fruit and silky tannins. The limestone adds complexity in the form of fine, chalky tannins. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

As ever, this is a Bourgogne which punches significantly above its weight. A good dollop of Savigny, Santenay, Beaune, Monthélie and St Romain make their way into the blend, not as off-cuts, but because Ben sees this as his vinous business card. Raised in large foudres, this is as gorgeous as ever, with an incredible purity of juicy, red berry fruit. The quintessence of Burgundian Pinot Noir. Drink 2018-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

A red-purple hue with attractive fruit, flora and gentle in the mouth. There is refreshing acidity behind, but the lovely floral notes win out. High class Bourgogne. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Harvest began during the last week in September and finished just before the storm. There was less whole bunch vinification for the wines affected by hail, but Volnay Taillepieds, Pommard Rugiens, Corton Clos du Roi and the wines from the Côte de Nuits were all predominantly vinified with their stems.
 

Pierre Vincent contrives to make a consistently fine Bourgogne Rouge every year. This example is a lovely red-purple colour, with beautiful fresh fruit demonstrating the really elegant Pinot, which continues right across the palate, dancing and lively, to the long finish.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The harvest began with whites on 26th September, before the rain, then the reds were brought in during less good weather, with sorting necessary. The stems were ripe enough to allow for whole bunch vinification, and Pierre has chosen the soft pedal in 2013: not much punching down, more an infusion approach, less new wood and perhaps a shorter time in barrel. Pierre can see some elements of 2008 but with more weight, more flattering wines overall.

From an excellent vineyard across the way from Chambolle-Musigny, this is bright pink-purple. An immediate, vigorous, bouncing wine emerges. The wine has super deep raspberry fruit with excellent but not trenchant acidity and a racy finish. Yes, please.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Rich, deep colour with purple rim, this is a very dense, powerful wine, with rich, dark liqueur cherry notes. There is unusual weight for a Bourgogne Rouge, while the acidity maintains freshness. A Bourgogne to lay down.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Gorgeous glowing purple, a bundle of fruit and full of joy, this is exactly what 2015 basic Bourgogne should be, only more so. One-third whole-bunch, there’s happy, vibrant red fruit, raspberry, then more concentrated, cherry-kernel fruit and structure at the back. The juicy aspect keeps on going. Fill your boots! Drink 2019-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Everything is in place, most especially the haunting quality of the fruit which emerges at the back, with a heavenly perfume suffusing the palate. A must-have, if we can supply it! Drink 2019-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Some village Santenay and Savigny are included in the blend, not because they deserved declassification but to make this a Bourgogne to remember. A lovely, glowing purple, this is beautifully perfumed, elegant, fresh, floral Pinot with just the right touch of acidity. Very long finish for the appellation; lovely. Drink 2018-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

With real elegance to the nose and impressive weight for Bourgogne, it has some tannins behind for structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director
Christian Sérafin notes that 2011 was a surprising year, with results much better than expected. These are elegant wines even by Sérafins standards and since Frédérique, Christian’s niece, has been responsible for vinification, the wines have been showing a fresher style, with slightly suppler tannins. Christian is partly retired, though he still looks after his favourite Cazetiers vineyard, as well as conducting tastings in the cellars. There is a bit more volume available than in the 2010s.

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You are getting your money’s worth, as this includes some Beaune and Santenay La Comme 1er Cru. Pale and attractive purple in colour, the fruit and oak blend together nicely, with very pretty middleweight fruit right across the palate and a persistent finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.

Burgundy 2011 En Primeur Affordable Gems

Always a favourite of the Fine Wine team, with this year being no different, this is full of red berry fruit with a cool, pure finish that is the hallmark of the vintage. Outstanding for Bourgogne Rouge.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

Bottled as usual with a stelvin screwcap to retain freshness, this has rich, vibrant fruit and is quite dark in style. The middle is plump and is followed by a fine, long finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Patrice and son Maxime Rion are tweaking their techniques a little by reducing new oak and slightly increasing extraction in the pre-fermentation stage. The results are impressive; in 2011 the wines have come in naturally at around 12.5% alcohol and they show a true sense of balance. 

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Fresh and vibrant, this is a charming Bourgogne Rouge packed full of pretty floral and red berry fruit character.
Alice Cave, London Shop

With lovely lifted red fruit, this is really pretty and attractive beneath, with the welcome freshness of the vintage shining through.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director Given that the sugar levels are not high in 2011, Ghislaine Barthod expected something lighter this year. However, the wines have come out with good texture and density. While accessible in the medium term, they show an attractive freshness and energy which puts them into a different class from the attractive 2007s. Chambolle-Musigny has done well in 2011, since the style of the appellation appreciates the fresher aspect of lower alcohol levels.

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A Bourgogne Rouge of brilliant concentration, tasting well above its station. This shows bouncing energy, full of fruit and fun. Great length and only two barrels made, alas.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Thibault’s two domaines, based in Moulin à Vent and Nuits-St Georges, both returned paltry yields of 16 hl/ha in 2012. Among the Côte d’Or appellations, the Hautes Côtes, Nuits and Gevrey-Chambertin suffered in particular. All of which is a great shame, given the quality of the wines which have been made. Even where Thibault purchases grapes (Aloxe-Corton and Chambolle- Musigny), Thibault makes the major decisions in the vineyard management. His own vines are farmed biodynamically, with ploughing by horse.

One-third domaine Bourgogne fruit is supplemented by purchased grapes from Marsannay, Ladoix and Beaune. A fine, bright, dark colour, with an immediate wealth of fruit on the nose and in the mouth, this is sumptuous and full of life. Plump yet gorgeous. Drink 2018-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

This comes from 50-year-old vines just below the Vosne-Romanée appellation. The wine is completely sensuous, with peonies and rose petals abounding. This is a stunning introduction to the brilliance of Jean-Pierre Guyon. Drink 2018-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

Rich, friendly purple with an attractive perfume, this is tight and concentrated, the fruit balanced by quite high acidity which will soon resolve into the heart of the wine. This is very backward but highly promising, especially given its provenance from the Bons Bâtons vineyard. Drink 2020-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now. 

This has a huge density of ripe fruit for this level, an extremely impressive Bourgogne that acts like a village-level wine. Chez Sérafin there is no doubting the keeping qualities either. Drink 2019-2025.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With prices in Burgundy still rising, even if often for understandable reasons, the appellations Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge are great places to look for affordable wines. You get the opportunity to drink wine from a top winemaker, from vines which are adjacent to the famous villages, and which will be accessible earlier. The 2005 Bourgognes Rouges are still delicious and youthful more than 10 years later, but most wines have been drinking well for a few years now.