Domaine Lignier-Michelot

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Virgile’s expertise was tested here, as these lower- lying vineyards (Les Seuvrées and Les Murots) were attacked aggressively by mildew. He has, however, emerged with honour, as this is good, honest Gevrey, built in a lighter but appealing frame. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Virgile Lignier started working alongside his father in 1988, really taking charge from 2000, by which time all the wines were being bottled at the domaine. Significant advances were made in the vineyards, reducing yields and ploughing the soil, along with the introduction of a sorting table and a higher percentage of new wood in the cellar. The domaine has an exemplary range of Morey- St Denis vineyards, supplemented by one or two cuvées from neighbouring villages. By his own admission, in his early days Virgile Lignier looked for too much extraction from his wines. The tide began to turn in 2006 and today he is very comfortable in his style. He does like to look for good levels of maturity and he waited just a day or two more than his neighbours to pick, beginning on 29th September and finishing on 3rd October in his Faconnières vineyard. He likes long skin contact, starting at a cool temperature, but with limited pumping over. Virgile is perfectly satisfied with his results in 2016, but did remark that it was hard work getting to what was eventually a very healthy harvest.

Situated next to Mazoyères, this has some of the explosive floral character of its neighbour, alongside intense fruit. The palate is rich and charming with layered tannin and balancing acidity. There’s a floral perfume to the finish that comes and goes. Excellent. Drink 2021-2026.

Having tasted numerous different wine styles Virgile decided he loves wines made with whole bunches, and has set about changing his winemaking to include a larger proportion each year, arriving now at a stage where he can’t imagine himself using less than 50 percent. His winemaking is consequently very gentle to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the stems. He began harvesting on 10th September, a little later than some neighbours as he waited for the stems to ripen. Virgile feels this is a vintage which has gained enormously from élevage, giving fine, elegant wines which will drink well early and age surprisingly well.

This is just below Charmes, but has a completely different soil type and expression. Here the soil is rich in limestone, which gives a more nervy and mineral style. Virgile used 100 percent whole-bunch, creating an intensely floral nose with notes of peony and rose petals. The palate has plump fruit, which fills out the middle before the rocky, chalky tannins cut through and leave a refined, pure finish. Drink 2022-2027.

Having tasted numerous different wine styles Virgile decided he loves wines made with whole bunches, and has set about changing his winemaking to include a larger proportion each year, arriving now at a stage where he can’t imagine himself using less than 50 percent. His winemaking is consequently very gentle to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the stems. He began harvesting on 10th September, a little later than some neighbours as he waited for the stems to ripen. Virgile feels this is a vintage which has gained enormously from élevage, giving fine, elegant wines which will drink well early and age surprisingly well.

This is a continuation of the Grand Cru Mazoyères in Gevrey, which can also be called Charmes. This has really lovely perfume, with 80% whole-bunch. It’s supple and charming with rose-petal aromatics. Drink 2022-2028.

This is a brilliant marriage of heady mature fruit (80% whole-bunch) and a graphite-led, cool structure. The bouquet is rich but controlled, the palate complex and special. Really fine this year. Drink 2026-2038.

Named after Virgile’s son, this blends the lower vineyard of Murots with Les Seuvrées, which is on the border with Morey. All whole-bunch, this is a very deep and compact wine, driven by dark fruit and a note of cherry compôte this year. Drink 2021-2026.

This a high vineyard immediately above Clos de Tart, with only three owners, planted by Virgile’s father in 1974. The topsoil is very thin and so the wines are exceedingly mineral, but 2018’s warmth has added a most appealing, creamy texture. Succulent and refreshing. Drink 2022-2027.

This cuvée is tiny, so always 100% whole-bunch. It sits under Charmes, but with an entirely different, limestone-rich soil. There’s an assertive, saline intensity with a refined, pure and detailed finish. Drink 2024-2030.

This is from Très Girard, Les Cognées and the village section of Chenevery, with the oldest vines aged 80 years. There is deeper clay here and the wine is in a more generous style for Morey. It’s very plush in 2018, but given dimension by a spicy, chunky finish. Drink 2022-2026.

This is principally from Chambolle-Musigny (Bons Bâtons, Champs Perdrix and Les Hâtes), with a little fruit from Morey. There’s 70% whole-bunch and 30% new wood. Certainly a superior Bourgogne, the black fruit notes are very pretty and there is good concentration, with just enough lift on the finish. Drink 2021-2025.

This comes from three plots, all at the north end of Chambolle, close to Morey, with an average age of 65 years. This has a lot of pure Chambolle perfume, well-handled in 2018. There is 70% whole-bunch and the wine is vivid, forward, floral and ripe. Drink 2021-2026.

Virgile has just under a third of a hectare here and would dearly love to have more. His is a delightfully elegant and refined expression of Fixin, with a lifted, floral nose with touches of raspberry and strawberry. There is plenty of intensity, and the pure limestone tannins of Fixin hint at real ageing potential, while Virgile’s light touch avoids any sense of rusticity. Drink 2022-2028.