Morey-Saint-Denis

This vineyard is above Clos de Tart, on soil similar to that of Chassagne-Montrachet. Aromas of citrus fruits combine with buttered toast. In the mouth, there is an impressive density of fruit which cedes to an intense, mineral freshness and lingering notes of struck-match reduction. Gorgeous! Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.

Sérafin has two plots in this well-regarded Premier Cru, one with 60-year-old vines, the other closer to 40 years old. The purity and delicacy of the vineyard is evident and, given the vineyard’s proximity to both Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis, there is much elegance in evidence too. Drink 2022-2027.

The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.

A graceful tint of pale purple. Floral, with appealing sweet red fruit, clearly some concentration to the cherry and raspberry fruit, while there is clearly much more to emerge later on.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

This has a little less whole-bunch this year (85 percent) and 50 percent new oak, as usual. This really goes through the gears. To begin with, the colour is profound. The bouquet has a brilliant interplay between spice and dark fruit – cinnamon one moment, damson the next. Finally the whole performance is sewn together by a carefully worked infrastructure of silky tannin and tightly woven acidity. This is a very special example of both the style of the domaine and Morey-St Denis itself. Drink 2025-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Clos des Lambrays was established in 1363 yet it was only in 1981 that this climat was finally promoted to Grand Cru status, as it deserves. The estate was purchased in 1996 by the Freund family who sold on in turn to LVMH in 2014. Winemaker Thierry Brouin has been in charge since 1979. The vineyards are run on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays and ploughing of the soil by horse. In the cellar, he likes to use the majority of the stems, favours punching down over pumping over and prefers to restrict the amount of new oak – around 50 percent for the Grand Cru. This is Thierry Brouin’s last vintage before his successor Boris Champy takes over. Morey was spared the frosts, so there is an air of unbridled optimism here. A cold spring left only a touch of frost on the vineyards under the trees, but otherwise the vines were untouched. Similarly, the mildew – which was exceptionally problematic for some growers, especially if they were organic – was controlled effectively. August was even warmer than in 2015 and timely September rain made this a fine year at the domaine.

The nose is very sensual and classy, with ripe cherry fruit giving a sense of very small, concentrated, ripe grapes. The wine has a very precise, pure, linear intensity, with a marvellous power. There is a superb nervous tension, with deep, dark fruit too cool to be called exuberant. Crisp with fine fruit, black cherry on the palate, lush and nicely put together, ripe tannins and crisp acidity: this is very fine. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

 

Very good colour. Plump, rich, fat black cherry and raspberry nose. This is most impressive on the palate. Full, rich, oaky, very classy. Really good grip. Lovely balance. Not a bit excessive in its acidity. Will be splendidly succulent. A very fine example. Very lovely finish. (Clive Coates - The Vine - 01-Jun-1998)