2021 Morey-St-Denis, Clos Sorbé, 1er Cru, Domaine François Legros, Burgundy
Critics reviews
Due to be bottled in January, the 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru is more backward than the Millandes at the moment, tightly-coiled red berry fruit, orange rind and a light steely note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannins, quintessential Morey-Saint-Denis with conspicuous backbone, judiciously spiced towards the finish. Bold but not overpowering, this is a nicely crafted Clos Sorbé.
This is my second visit in a year to this Domaine based on the outskirts of Nuits Saint-George. Newbuild homes are surrounding François Legros’s winery, thankfully not impeding on any sacred vineyards. “The whites are vinified in stainless steel but transferred into barrel halfway through the alcohol fermentation,” Legros tells me. “They are matured in 30% new oak, and the rest one and two years old. I started the picking on 21 or 22 September.” The standout in 2021 is a wonderful Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots and Morey-Saint-Denis Millandes. The already bottled whites are generally fresh and approachable, particularly strong in Saint-Aubin.
Drink 2025 - 2040
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (January 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine François Legros
Domaine François Legros is a family-owned vineyard with a rich history and a commitment to quality winemaking. What began in 1988 as a small family wine estate has blossomed into a 6.7-hectare vineyard nestled between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. François Legros, the steward of this vineyard, cultivates both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. The estate remains true to its roots, focusing on modernity, authenticity, and expertise.
Morey-Saint-Denis
Morey is sometimes ignored between its two famous neighbours, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, but its wines are of equal class, combining elegance and structure. Morey-St Denis, being that little bit less famous, can often provide excellent value.
The four main Grand Cru vineyards continue in a line from those of Gevrey-Chambertin, with Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche the most widely available. Clos des Lambrays (almost) and Clos de Tart (entirely) are monopolies of the domains which bear the same names.
Domaine Dujac and Domaine Ponsot also make rare white wines in Morey-St Denis.
- 64 hectares of village Morey-St Denis
- 33 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). Best vineyards include Les Charmes, Les Millandes, Clos de la Bussière, Les Monts Luisants
- 40 hectares of Grand Cru vineyard. Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and a tiny part of Bonnes Mares
- Recommended Producers: Dujac, Ponsot, Clos de Tart, Domaine des Lambrays
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Description
Due to be bottled in January, the 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru is more backward than the Millandes at the moment, tightly-coiled red berry fruit, orange rind and a light steely note. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannins, quintessential Morey-Saint-Denis with conspicuous backbone, judiciously spiced towards the finish. Bold but not overpowering, this is a nicely crafted Clos Sorbé.
This is my second visit in a year to this Domaine based on the outskirts of Nuits Saint-George. Newbuild homes are surrounding François Legros’s winery, thankfully not impeding on any sacred vineyards. “The whites are vinified in stainless steel but transferred into barrel halfway through the alcohol fermentation,” Legros tells me. “They are matured in 30% new oak, and the rest one and two years old. I started the picking on 21 or 22 September.” The standout in 2021 is a wonderful Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots and Morey-Saint-Denis Millandes. The already bottled whites are generally fresh and approachable, particularly strong in Saint-Aubin.
Drink 2025 - 2040
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (January 2023)
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