Pouilly Fuisse

A blend from a number of excellent vineyard sites in the villages of Chaintré and Vergisson, we have worked again with the renowned “wizard of the Mâconnais” Olivier Merlin to create this benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé. Generous stone-fruit ¬flavours combine with a saline minerality and toasty oak notes to give a poised and restrained white Burgundy, one which will pair beautifully with seafood risotto.
Adam Bruntlett, Win Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

This pure unoaked Mâcon has ripe peach and melon notes dancing on a beautifully refreshing and clean palate. A cracking white Burgundy which will taste just as good on its own as with a variety of seafood and lighter meat dishes. 

Primrose in colour, this has an immediately pleasing, floral nose. With lively, generous fruit, there is plenty of energy here; very good weight at the back of the palate and a perfectly judged fruit- acid balance, leading to a fine quality finish. Drink 2019-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual. 

The fruit is mostly from 75- to 80-year-old vines in the village of Fuissé. These south-facing plots are chalky but also reach high temperatures in the summer. The wine is broad-shouldered and powerful, yet with spine-tingling acidity. Packed with ripe peach, apricot and a flinty mineral feel, this is weighty without being clumsy. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This cuvée was undergoing malolactic fermentation when we tasted so it was very difficult to assess and will be revisited in January. It comes from a cool, airy site in Vergisson, which coped well with a sunny summer.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual. 

This comes from two parcels of 60-year-old vines in cooler sites in Vergisson. Having been hit by hail, the yield here was a modest 35hl/ha, adding an extra layer of concentration. It does not, however, lack freshness. This fine-boned wine is defined by its acidity and gorgeous orange-blossom aromas. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This is a cool site which produces wines of tension and freshness. True to form, there is plenty of energy and verve here, a certain deftness but it is not lacking in fruit ripeness. The finish has a lovely chewy bitterness that gives the thirst for another sip. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
 
Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

The opposite side of the coin to Chatenay, Au Vignerais produces a much broader, more masculine style thanks to its red clay soils and the vines’ tendency to produce small, concentrated berries. Only two barrels were made this year. Almost golden, it is rich, dense and spicy, with pleasing minerality. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

Its pure, translucent colour heralds a very noble nose, which delivers a real sense of class. Truly intense and very smartly balanced, this is both long and pure. Its abundant minerals tingle the tongue. This is a brilliant, glorious wine.

This is the third vintage at this joint venture, and the best to date. Olivier and Dominique are now able to run the vineyards absolutely as they wish, to excellent effect, and indeed a new block on the plateau (alongside the château) has now been planted. All that remains is to restore the building itself… Any volunteers?

The Vieilles Vignes cuvée was formerly known as Terroir de Fuissé. This is the heartland of Pouilly- Fuissé, delivering the richest wines of the appellation – as this bottling shows. It has lovely weight, with classical, dense white fruit, fine balancing acidity and a succulent finish.

Olivier concurs with the view that 2014 is a top vintage for white wines. The weather was good throughout the harvest, so he was able to pick each vineyard at a time of his choosing. There has also been some evolution within the range, with the introduction of an excellent new cuvée, Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Chevrières.

Pale lemon in colour, this has a fine, elegant, floral nose, immediately classy. The fruit stretches out beautifully across the mid-palate, remaining fresh all the way through, with perfect poise and no sign of the heat of the year. Drink 2019-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Merlin chose to harvest the Clos des Quarts before his own vines, on 29th and 30th August, starting each day at dawn and finishing at lunchtime so as not to pick during the heat of the day. As the note shows, this policy has paid off. Yields were acceptable but the fine late summer weather has concentrated the juice admirably.

The 2014 vintage in the Mâcon produced arguably the finest white wines for decades; this example shows that the exceptional quality was not limited to the grander appellations. It combines ripeness and acidity to great effect, with aromas of citrus and a hint of stone fruit. Its nine months in oak has contributed complexity and weight to the palate, giving a wine which is a peerless match for all fish and white meats. Drinking beautifully now, it should be enjoyed over the next year or two.

Arguably the most classic and the longest lived of the three Pouilly-Fuiss cuvees, this is perfectly poised throughout. Silky fruit abounds, but there is a tight structure too before the long finish kicks in.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

The wizard of the Mconnais has produced a great range of wines in 2010 from his 14 hectare domaine, supplemented by some purchased grapes from certain appellations such as Pouilly-Fuiss. There are few more reflective and meticulous producers in the Mconnais than the Merlins, who form a great partnership with Oliviers nervous energy supported by Corinnes unflagging calm.