Pouilly Fuisse

A blend from a number of excellent vineyard sites in the villages of Chaintré and Vergisson, we have worked again with the renowned “wizard of the Mâconnais” Olivier Merlin to create this benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé. Generous stone-fruit ¬flavours combine with a saline minerality and toasty oak notes to give a poised and restrained white Burgundy, one which will pair beautifully with seafood risotto.
Adam Bruntlett, Win Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

This pure unoaked Mâcon has ripe peach and melon notes dancing on a beautifully refreshing and clean palate. A cracking white Burgundy which will taste just as good on its own as with a variety of seafood and lighter meat dishes. 

Primrose in colour, this has an immediately pleasing, floral nose. With lively, generous fruit, there is plenty of energy here; very good weight at the back of the palate and a perfectly judged fruit- acid balance, leading to a fine quality finish. Drink 2019-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual. 

The fruit is mostly from 75- to 80-year-old vines in the village of Fuissé. These south-facing plots are chalky but also reach high temperatures in the summer. The wine is broad-shouldered and powerful, yet with spine-tingling acidity. Packed with ripe peach, apricot and a flinty mineral feel, this is weighty without being clumsy. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This cuvée was undergoing malolactic fermentation when we tasted so it was very difficult to assess and will be revisited in January. It comes from a cool, airy site in Vergisson, which coped well with a sunny summer.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier, who normally picks after his neighbours, was out harvesting before them this year, starting at the end of August. The hot, dry wind in that period really concentrated both the sugars and the acidity in the grapes. Everything ripened rapidly so Olivier made sure to privilege his best terroirs, and completed the harvest in five fewer days than usual. 

This comes from two parcels of 60-year-old vines in cooler sites in Vergisson. Having been hit by hail, the yield here was a modest 35hl/ha, adding an extra layer of concentration. It does not, however, lack freshness. This fine-boned wine is defined by its acidity and gorgeous orange-blossom aromas. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been established in the Mâconnais village of La Roche Vineuse since 1987. Over the years they have bought the domaine which they originally rented, built a new cuverie, planted new vineyards locally and spread out into further appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé and Moulin-à-Vent. Theirs has been one of the great success stories of the modern Mâconnais. They expect to be joined shortly by sons Théo and Paul. Having made his first wines in 1987, this year represents Olivier’s 30th vintage in La Roche Vineuse. It is fair to say that in this time he has contributed much to raising standards in the Mâconnais. Proof of his great skill as a winemaker came in the form of a bottle of 1990 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, a highlight of a lunch at Berry Bros. & Rudd in July to mark Jasper Morris’s retirement.

This is a cool site which produces wines of tension and freshness. True to form, there is plenty of energy and verve here, a certain deftness but it is not lacking in fruit ripeness. The finish has a lovely chewy bitterness that gives the thirst for another sip. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
 
Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

The Vieilles Vignes cuvée was formerly known as Terroir de Fuissé. This is the heartland of Pouilly- Fuissé, delivering the richest wines of the appellation – as this bottling shows. It has lovely weight, with classical, dense white fruit, fine balancing acidity and a succulent finish.

Olivier concurs with the view that 2014 is a top vintage for white wines. The weather was good throughout the harvest, so he was able to pick each vineyard at a time of his choosing. There has also been some evolution within the range, with the introduction of an excellent new cuvée, Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Chevrières.

Pale lemon in colour, this has a fine, elegant, floral nose, immediately classy. The fruit stretches out beautifully across the mid-palate, remaining fresh all the way through, with perfect poise and no sign of the heat of the year. Drink 2019-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Merlin chose to harvest the Clos des Quarts before his own vines, on 29th and 30th August, starting each day at dawn and finishing at lunchtime so as not to pick during the heat of the day. As the note shows, this policy has paid off. Yields were acceptable but the fine late summer weather has concentrated the juice admirably.

The 2014 vintage in the Mâcon produced arguably the finest white wines for decades; this example shows that the exceptional quality was not limited to the grander appellations. It combines ripeness and acidity to great effect, with aromas of citrus and a hint of stone fruit. Its nine months in oak has contributed complexity and weight to the palate, giving a wine which is a peerless match for all fish and white meats. Drinking beautifully now, it should be enjoyed over the next year or two.

The opposite side of the coin to Chatenay, Au Vignerais produces a much broader, more masculine style thanks to its red clay soils and the vines’ tendency to produce small, concentrated berries. Only two barrels were made this year. Almost golden, it is rich, dense and spicy, with pleasing minerality. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a “vigneron’s vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.

Notably thin soils mean Vers Cras can suffer in hot years like 2015, but performs brilliantly in cooler years like ’16. Its citrus nose and taut, mineral palate are hugely appealing, while a dose of 20% new oak adds a seductive buttery note to the long finish.
Will Heslop, Wine Buyer

A bright, clear colour, with a touch of oak showing. Then it opens out beautifully on the palate, with great energy at the back. Still very youthful; a great cuvée for the long term.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Olivier and Corinne Merlin have been running their small domaine in the village of La Roche Vineuse for 25 years now, with superb attention to detail in the vineyards enabling them to make outstanding wines year in, year out. For Olivier, 2012 is a beautifully balanced vintage, with natural alcohol levels between 12.5% and 13.5%, and while yields are on the low side, the picture is much less catastrophic than in the Côte de Beaune. Olivier has been cutting back on the new wood, with most cuvées now receiving between 10 and 20%.

The 2016 Clos des Quarts has a wonderfully precise, mineral feel to it. There is great power here, but it is restrained, and reminiscent of a fine Grand Cru Chablis, Les Clos. The old vines provide a wonderful nervous intensity and ensure the consistency of this wine, regardless of the vintage’s climatic conditions. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Chateau des Quarts was created in 2012 by two of our favourite vignerons, Dominique Lafon and Olivier Merlin, who are old friends. The vineyard is managed by Olivier Merlin and the wine made in his facility at La Roche Vineuse. This monopole vineyard of 2.23 hectares in Chaintré is surrounded by a high stone wall, facing east, overlooking the Saône valley. In 2017, the oldest vines celebrated their centenary. The key to their longevity is riparia rootstock and an oldschool training and pruning regime. Olivier Merlin chose to harvest the Clos des Quarts vines before his own, on 29th and 30th August, starting each day at dawn and finishing at lunchtime, so as not to pick during the heat of the day. As the note shows, this policy has paid off. Yields were acceptable, but the fine late summer weather has concentrated the juice admirably.