2021 Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur La Roche, Olivier Merlin, Burgundy
Critics reviews
From Vergisson and from yields of only 7 hl/ha in 2021.
Here, the wood treatment isn't subtle, even if it doesn't overshadow the overtly floral aromas of mostly citrus peel and Granny Smith apples. There is a superb intensity to the dense, medium-bodied flavours that conclude in a bone-dry, chiselled, overtly lemony, and moderately tart finish that is almost too much. Indeed, I suspect that there will be some who find the citrus character to be overwhelming.
Drink from 2026 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (August 2023)
The 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche 1er Cru suffered the most damage from the frost; therefore, only three barrels were produced from half a hectare of vine. It has a strict, stony bouquet. It's a bit introverted at the moment and maybe not equipped with the same vigour as the Au Vignoret. The palate is taut, fresh and saline. It shows good weight and concentration, almost like compensating for the aromatics. With a heavy marine influence on the finish, this ends on a high note.
Drink 2024 - 2042
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (August 2023)
About this WINE
Olivier Merlin
Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.
He makes three cuvées of Pouilly-Fuissé (one each from Fuissé, Vergisson and Chaintré) and a Viré-Clessé. From 2000 some Moulin-à-Vent joined the stable. The single-vineyard wines, including Mâcon-La Roche Vineuse, Les Cras and St Véran, Le Grand Bussière, get 18 months’ barrel-ageing with 30 to 50% new wood.
Olivier has established a reputation as one of the region’s most dynamic growers, a reference point for the Mâconnais. The whites demonstrate his exceptional winemaking talents, and the potential of “lowly” appellations. They are frequently taken for Côte d'Or wines if tasted blind. His Bourgogne Rouge is at its best after two to three years when the fruit expresses itself fully.
Olivier and Corinne have recently been joined at the domaine by their sons, Théo and Paul, who have completed their winemaking studies, and also spent time working at wineries in the Mornington Peninsula. With this extra manpower at the domaine’s disposal, Olivier has acquired a handful of new parcels including the Clos de France, in the heart of the village of Vergisson (2018 will be the inaugural vintage of the eponymous single-vineyard wine).
Discover the story behind our Own Selection Pouilly-Fuissé, made for us by Olivier. Read more
Pouilly-Fuissé
Pouilly-Fuissé is the most distinguished wine appellation in the Mâconnais, making rich, full-bodied white Burgundy from Chardonnay in four communes: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson. There is a move afoot to consider classifying individual vineyard sites.
Since arriving in the Mâconnais in 1987, Olivier and Corinne Merlin have become among the region’s most respected producers. After 10 years, they began buying Pouilly-Fuissé grapes, and now make three different cuvées each vintage.Pouilly-Fuissé should not be confused with Pouilly-Fumé or Pouilly-sur-Loire in the Loire Valley that produce wines from Sauvignon Blanc.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
Buying options
Add to wishlist
Description
Located in the village of Vergisson, this is the highest-altitude Premier Cru at 370 metres above sea level, and therefore one of the more elegant and energetic expressions of the appellation. Indeed, it was originally ruled out for Premier Cru by the authorities as being too cool. Just three barrels this year from nearly half a hectare of finely tuned, taut and mineral wine. Will need some time to unwind.
Drink 2028 - 2040
Berry Bros. & Rudd
wine at a glance
Delivery and quality guarantee