Chablis

Our 2017 Chablis comes from two separate vineyards in the village of Chichée, renowned for its classically steely character. The small but excellent 2017 vintage has given a wine with a harmonious balance between ripe orchard fruits and crisp, refreshing mineral notes. Fermented and raised completely in tank, this is a benchmark expression of Chablis, one which is equally at home as an aperitif or with seafood or a goats cheese salad.

This comes from three plots, Bas de Chapelots, Pargues and Cartes. Samuel picked the hailed parts on 3^rd September, then the rest a few days later. There is a little touch of youthful bitterness which gives way to a fine-boned, well-constructed Chablis, with plenty of energy. Drink 2018-2021.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Samuel has not only been able to take back his share of the family vineyards but he has also moved into some excellent premises which he has been refurbishing, in the heart of Chablis. It was good to find him in such a cheerful frame of mind. The long, slow vinification of his 2015s has done the wines a lot of good. We found a concentration of minerality and characteristic saline finishes.

This is intensely Citrusy, with electrifying acidity and a long, clean finish redolent of oyster shells. Thierry has once again crafted an exemplary village Chablis despite a gruelling vintage in which he lost over half his crop to frost and hail. 
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant, summer 2018

Raised 100% in stainless steel, the aromas show some of the exotic fruit of the vintage with white peach notes, but there is the unmistakable marine quality of true Chablis on Kimmeridgian soil underneath, along with the zesty lemon edge. Approachable now and will be enjoyable over the next few years. 
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

This comes from two plots – Chapelot and the 90-year- old Cartes – this year, rather than the usual three, as the Pargues was hailed completely. This is very classic Chablis on the nose, while the palate has gorgeous concentration and purity, with a saline, marine finish. Punches above the weight of a normal village wine. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

Sébastien feels that the Côte de Léchet is the most serious of all his wines, and the one with the most ageing potential, and it is hard to disagree. There is a lovely marine quality to the nose, tangy and saline. On the front of the palate, there is a surprising weight of fruit before everything tightens up and the limestone character kicks in. Concentrated and pure, this crackles with energy. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Dampt family has been making wine for more than 150 years in Chablis. Having studied viticulture in Beaune, young Sébastien worked in Sancerre, Nuits-St Georges and Australia to broaden his experience before returning to the family domaine, Daniel Dampt, in 2005 to work alongside his father and brother. In 2007, he took back seven hectares under his own name. The domaine is situated in Milly, to the west of Chablis, and 50 percent of the holdings are Premier Cru. The wines are largely vinified and raised in stainless steel and concrete, the aim being to produce a linear and classic interpretation of Chablis. Sébastien explained that 2016 has a certain richness from the low yields, thanks to frost, hail and subsequent mildew. Thankfully the perfect summer and ripening season meant that quality is exceptional, with wonderful balance and classically pure Chablis characteristics. While Sébastien makes a range of Premiers Crus, we have chosen to focus our offer on his excellent Côte de Léchet; an historic family parcel located just a stone’s throw from the cellars.

From 60-year-old vines, the nose offers citrus and floral notes. After the initial zesty kick, this becomes more expansive on the mid-palate, tightening up again with an unerring finish of chalk, lemon and salinity. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The legendary Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous oldstyle Chablis. His great-grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father Laurent and her uncle Christophe are now in charge. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses on the street. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. The wines are wild-fermented, mostly in stainless steel tanks, before barrel ageing, with the proportion of oak depending on the cuvée. Despite describing 2016 as a testing year, Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are upbeat, declaring themselves very happy with the quality of the grapes and resultant wines. Volumes are down in many cases, and the limited-production Cuvée Mademoiselle has not been made this year.

The frost meant that there are only three barrels of this in 2016, as opposed to the usual five. As ever with Vaillons, there is a good level of richness – Laurent describes it as “gourmand” – but underpinned by tension and nervosity. A chalky texture provides a cleansing freshness to the finish, along with a touch of spicy oak which will integrate further with time in bottle.

Mont-de-Milieu is the Pinson family’s largest holding of the Premiers Crus and consequently something of a flagship wine. The nose shows a little of its oak élevage at present, along with subtle wafts of noble reduction. There is a wonderful concentration of fruit, beautifully intertwined with cool, marine notes. A harmonious wine with great finesse and elegance. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The legendary Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983, having made some fabulous oldstyle Chablis. His great-grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father Laurent and her uncle Christophe are now in charge. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses on the street. Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. The wines are wild-fermented, mostly in stainless steel tanks, before barrel ageing, with the proportion of oak depending on the cuvée. Despite describing 2016 as a testing year, Laurent Pinson and his daughter Charlène are upbeat, declaring themselves very happy with the quality of the grapes and resultant wines. Volumes are down in many cases, and the limited-production Cuvée Mademoiselle has not been made this year.

This blends the 1937-planted Ardillier fruit, along with L’Homme Mort and Fourchaume, with around a quarter raised in oak. The concentration of the reduced yield shines through, yet does not make the wine unbalanced. It is powerful, with a creamy, supple texture, and a simmering undercurrent of energetic minerals. Incredible persistence. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having stepped down from the company which bears his name, Michel Laroche has, along with his daughters, launched a small domaine based on their family vineyards, named after Michel’s father Henri. Their principal holdings are in Premier Cru Fourchaume, especially a Vieilles Vignes cuvée from 47-year-old vines in L’Homme Mort and an Héritage cuvée, which comes from the oldest parcel (planted in 1937) in the lieu-dit of l’Ardillier. At an average of just 13hl/ha, Michel Laroche described this as the worst vintage – in volume terms – that he has seen in 50 years. Fourchaume, where the family has the vast majority of its Premier Cru holdings, was particularly badly hit by both frost and hail. As a result, they have made a single “super-cuvée” of Fourchaume, including the estate’s oldest vines.

After a hiatus in 2015, we are pleased to welcome this back to the range. Raised entirely in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of this south-facing vineyard, this is the most open of the Premiers Crus. The warmth of the exposition shines through with pleasant yellow fruit notes, while the steep, stony slope contributes a chalkiness to the finish. Very transparent. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

The aromas here are open with heady notes of peaches intertwined with classic Chablis minerality. The palate is initially rich with white stone fruit, but cleansing acidity builds from the mid-palate to tame any hedonistic tendencies. Despite this, it is clearly the most open and accessible wine of the Louis Michel range, and consequently one for earlier drinking. 

This cuvée comes from a 1.6-hectare plot of vines which suffer from Cournouaille virus and consequently always produce very small yields. The aromatic palette here is built upon citrus fruit, with invigorating notes of zesty lemon and lime. In the mouth the character is one of sizzling freshness, but remarkably open and without austerity – restrained rather than powerful, but with incredible length. The subsoil here is Kimmeridgian with very shallow topsoil, and the mineral thread which runs through the wine speaks clearly of this.

Twenty percent went into barrel and 80 percent into tank, coming from a mix of plots ranging from 30 to 80 years old. Harvested at around 25hl/ha, it’s no surprise that there is great concentration and intensity. Floral and subtle with the austerity of youth, this will fill out with élevage and blossom into a fine Mont de Milieu. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer


The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent. Samuel feels that 2016 is very close in style to the outstanding 2014 vintage, and says that the concentrating effect of hail and frost early in the season, along with the cool ripening period has given a good balance of matière and acidity. This is a very promising set of wines which will gain in weight and complexity with élevage . Samuel is undoubtedly making some of the finest wines in Chablis.

Twenty-five percent barrel-fermented, this comes from the best part of Fourchaume. It has a beautiful perfume, with notes of orange oil and exotic spices. Weighty and caressing, but with a core of limestone freshness that is unmistakably Chablis. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Droins have been producing wines in Chablis for nearly 400 years (their history as vignerons goes back at least to 1620). Benoît represents the 14th generation, having taken over from his father Jean-Paul. The domaine owns 13 hectares of vineyards and produces 14 different wines, including seven Premiers Crus and five Grands Crus. Benoît runs a sophisticated operation from a large modern winery almost in the shadow of the Grands Crus. He has revised his pruning system and significantly reduced yields; while in the cellar the principal change has been away from new oak. Visiting Benoît Droin in spring 2017 was a sobering affair; row upon row of stainless steel tanks stood empty, their doors hanging open as a stark reminder of the damage caused by the frost and twin hailstorms of the nightmarish 2016 vintage. Despite making just half his normal crop, Benoît remained philosophical and announced himself delighted with the vintage, explaining that he feels there is greater concentration and better balance than the sunnier 2015s. Unfortunately, there is no Fourchaume this year.

A wine which draws you in from the first whiff of oyster shell, there is a wonderful concentration of yellow fruit here, with plenty of power and energy. It is dense and weighty but not remotely heavy, thanks to the fine core of acidity. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.