Chablis
One of the most famous wine names in the world, Chablis has suffered from numerous imitators. Fifty years ago it comprise just 400ha of vineyards but today there are 4,900ha. Being further north than the rest of Burgundy the wines are subtly different in style, a touch more austere with a beautiful fresh minerality. Forty vineyards are classified Premier Cru, while the seven Grands Crus overlook the town of Chablis and the River Serein.
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Didier & Pascal Picq,
Drink now,
Blended from numerous parcels across Chichée, this is a classic, mineral rendition of village Chablis. Didier’s policy is to age his wines exclusively in stainless steel tanks. For a food pairing, look no further than shellfish or sushi. Drink now to 2021.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (November 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (November 2019)
Didier & Pascal Picq,
Ready, but will keep,
This exceptionally elegant, mineral village Chablis hails from two of Didier’s most prized vineyards, which lie above an abandoned limestone quarry outside Chichée. The ’17, raised exclusively in stainless steel, is taut as a piano wire, but already boasts a complex nose including marine, citrus and fennel aromas. This cuvée invariably gains weight and gorgeous honeyed notes with time in bottle, but never loses its energy. Drink it now with shellfish or, as Didier suggests, wait a few years and enjoy it alongside a poulet à la crème. Drink now to 2025.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (August 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (August 2019)
Le Domaine d'Henri,
Ready, but will keep,
The fruit for the cuvée Saint Pierre (named after a church in the town of Chablis) hails from prized parcels in the lieu-dit of Les Chaumes, in Maligny. The soil here is relatively rich in clay, resulting in a more concentrated, age-worthy wine than most village Chablis. It is raised primarily in stainless steel, but around 10% is aged in used oak barrels. Expect classic aromas of zested lemons and crushed oyster shell, leading to a palate that’s medium-full yet fresh and energetic. A natural accompaniment to shellfish, this also works well with all manner of white meat dishes. Drink now to 2024.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Samuel Billaud,
Ready, but will keep,
In 2017 this is a blend of mostly Pargues and Cartes, plus a reduced percentage of Bas de Chapelot due to frost. The nose has lifted aromas of citrus fruit while the palate displays lemon-and-lime freshness, with a chalky and saline mineral feel. The lower proportion of Chapelot this year has yielded a more elegant wine. Drink 2019-2025.
Adam Bruntlett - Wine Buyer
The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However, with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent.
Adam Bruntlett - Wine Buyer
The brilliantly talented Samuel Billaud was finding family politics hard going, so he founded his own wine label in Chablis separate from Domaine Billaud-Simon. However, with the sale of Domaine Billaud- Simon to Faiveley in 2014, Samuel has got back a proportion of the vineyards for himself. Whether from domaine sources or purchased grapes, Samuel Billaud’s wines demonstrate his exceptional talent.
Ready, but will improve,
There is a lovely classic Chablis nose of crushed oyster shell and lemon fruit. The palate is tangy, with a surprising structure and grip, while remaining fine and elegant. The old vines suffer from court-noué, giving lots of very small grapes which results in plenty of concentration and phenolic grip. Lemony and saline, this is textbook Chablis with a punch. Drink 2020-2026.
The 2017 vintage saw the domaine light candles in the vineyards for six successive nights at the end of April to raise temperatures and keep the frost at bay. While some unprotected parcels were badly hit, the Côte de Léchet survived relatively unscathed and the warm, dry season that followed has produced a wine with a freshness that reminds Sébastien of the outstanding 2014 vintage. His Côte de Léchet offers exceptional value for money for those who enjoy a classic, steely expression of Chablis.
The 2017 vintage saw the domaine light candles in the vineyards for six successive nights at the end of April to raise temperatures and keep the frost at bay. While some unprotected parcels were badly hit, the Côte de Léchet survived relatively unscathed and the warm, dry season that followed has produced a wine with a freshness that reminds Sébastien of the outstanding 2014 vintage. His Côte de Léchet offers exceptional value for money for those who enjoy a classic, steely expression of Chablis.
Ready, but will keep,
This is an exceptionally concentrated, relatively full-bodied village Chablis, from vines a minimum of 40 years old. One quarter of the blend is raised in used oak. There’s a hint of stone-fruit on the nose, as well as classic aromas of citrus and sea air – that saline thread persisting right to the end of the long, fresh finish. Drink now to 2026.
Will Heslop , Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Will Heslop , Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Le Domaine d'Henri,
Ready, but will improve,
The domaine has been making this wine since the 2015 vintage, but it has come into its own in 2017. The nose offers austere notes of grass, citrus fruit and some flint. The palate is, however, richer with more generosity and mid-palate breadth, culminating in a pleasing bitterness on the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Michel’s daughter Margaux is taking a more active role in both the cellar and vineyard. She explained that they have been reducing sulphur levels during the winemaking process, believing that this allows the terroir to express itself better. They also no longer fine or filter the wines, the goal being to preserve as much flavour as possible in the final bottle. Yields are down by 50 percent overall, their aspersion system in Fourchaume rescuing them from the worst of the frost. Margaux feels 2017 is a classic Chablis vintage, with freshness and minerality.
Michel’s daughter Margaux is taking a more active role in both the cellar and vineyard. She explained that they have been reducing sulphur levels during the winemaking process, believing that this allows the terroir to express itself better. They also no longer fine or filter the wines, the goal being to preserve as much flavour as possible in the final bottle. Yields are down by 50 percent overall, their aspersion system in Fourchaume rescuing them from the worst of the frost. Margaux feels 2017 is a classic Chablis vintage, with freshness and minerality.
Didier & Pascal Picq,
Ready, but will improve,
Redolent of oyster shells and with a hint of reduction – that he attributes to terroir rather than winemaking, Didier’s 2016 Vosgros is a knockout. A cool breeze means the vines here ripen relatively slowly, but they face southwest so see plenty of sun. This wine’s round, ripe, sunny side will reveal itself with another year or two in bottle – and may even fool you into thinking it’s barrel-aged (in fact it’s raised exclusively in stainless steel). Drink now to 2023.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Le Domaine d'Henri,
Ready, but will improve,
With a fine, pale colour, the nose is restrained in youth, but there is a delicious wealth of fruit on the palate, folded into a rich background and finishing in fresh style. This is a very stylish bottling of Fourchaume. Drink 2019-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Visiting the domaine during the 2015 harvest, we found Margaux Laroche beaming like a cat with two tails. The storm which had dropped hail over other vineyards had merely provided much needed water for their Fourchaume vines. The grapes badly needed the extra juice which the rains provided, and the extra hang time allowed for them to assimilate the water usefully and then regain their equilibrium behind. The resulting wines are terrific.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Visiting the domaine during the 2015 harvest, we found Margaux Laroche beaming like a cat with two tails. The storm which had dropped hail over other vineyards had merely provided much needed water for their Fourchaume vines. The grapes badly needed the extra juice which the rains provided, and the extra hang time allowed for them to assimilate the water usefully and then regain their equilibrium behind. The resulting wines are terrific.
Domaine Pinson,
Ready, but will improve,
Four barrels were made this year (one more than in 2016), from the climat of Châtains. The nose displays classic green, herbaceous lemongrass aromas combined with spicy oak courtesy of its ageing in used barrels. The palate is packed with zesty lime and just a hint of well-integrated oak. Drink 2020-2026.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
Domaine Pinson,
Ready, but will improve,
The Pinson family has nearly five hectares here and consequently this is something of a flagship wine. With 10 percent of the cuvée fermented in new oak, there is more spice here, but the class of the wine ensures it is not dominant. There is a piercing mineral core and immense concentration; a real star of the vintage. Drink 2022-2030.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
Domaine Pinson,
Ready, but will keep,
These vines were planted in 1956, so are slightly younger than the Forêt vines. The nose displays classic Chablis dairy notes, some citrus and a touch of spice from the oak. This is a classic Montmain, with lovely, lemony acidity, well-integrated oak and plenty of oyster shell and sea-breeze notes. Drink 2021-2028.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
It’s mixed news this year: while 2017 sees the return of the much-loved Cuvée Mademoiselle, overall there is less wine than in 2016, frost damage having cut the crop by anything up to 70 percent, with the worst-affected area being Les Clos. Despite the obvious disappointment of the small crop, Laurent and Charlène were delighted with the quality and health of the grapes at harvest, and feel this is a classically Chablisien vintage.
Ready, but will improve,
Romain uses a touch more oak than his father, but there’s a clear parallel in styles between this and the domaine wines: Romain’s Vaillons is creamy and rounded, yet mineral, with a late wave of citrus and iodine following the initial hit of stone-fruit and spice. It’s made from the fruit of 50-year-old vines, to which Romain attributes its impressive concentration. Drink now to 2027.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Le Domaine d'Henri,
Ready, but will improve,
From vines approaching 50 years of age, 25 percent of the wine is fermented and raised in older oak barrels. Extraordinarily fine and restrained for arguably Chablis’s most exuberant Premier Cru, this is an intense, precise wine with real focus. Lots of fine mineral notes wrapped up in viscous citrus fruit give a wonderful, textured finish. Drink 2022-2028.
Michel’s daughter Margaux is taking a more active role in both the cellar and vineyard. She explained that they have been reducing sulphur levels during the winemaking process, believing that this allows the terroir to express itself better. They also no longer fine or filter the wines, the goal being to preserve as much flavour as possible in the final bottle. Yields are down by 50 percent overall, their aspersion system in Fourchaume rescuing them from the worst of the frost. Margaux feels 2017 is a classic Chablis vintage, with freshness and minerality.
Michel’s daughter Margaux is taking a more active role in both the cellar and vineyard. She explained that they have been reducing sulphur levels during the winemaking process, believing that this allows the terroir to express itself better. They also no longer fine or filter the wines, the goal being to preserve as much flavour as possible in the final bottle. Yields are down by 50 percent overall, their aspersion system in Fourchaume rescuing them from the worst of the frost. Margaux feels 2017 is a classic Chablis vintage, with freshness and minerality.
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
This cuvée comes from a 1.6-hectare plot of vines which suffer from Cournouaille virus and consequently always produce very small yields. The aromatic palette here is built upon citrus fruit, with invigorating notes of zesty lemon and lime. In the mouth the character is one of sizzling freshness, but remarkably open and without austerity – restrained rather than powerful, but with incredible length. The subsoil here is Kimmeridgian with very shallow topsoil, and the mineral thread which runs through the wine speaks clearly of this.
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
This is such a tightly wound, mineral cuvée, with notes of gunflint and oyster shell on the nose. It’s little surprise to learn the bedrock is just centimetres below the surface of Guillaume’s two parcels here in Forêts. This is a touch reductive at present and requires patience, but should develop great complexity over the next decade and beyond. Drink 2023-2033.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
This sheltered parcel enjoys a warm microclimate expressed by the wine’s open, ripe citrus and stonefruit bouquet. There’s already a slight roasted, nutty character too, which should become more pronounced over time. The palate is perhaps tighter, more mineral than expected, suggesting a long lifespan. Drink 2022-2032.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
A wine which draws you in from the first whiff of oyster shell, there is a wonderful concentration of yellow fruit here, with plenty of power and energy. It is dense and weighty but not remotely heavy, thanks to the fine core of acidity. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
This domaine, based in the heart of Chablis, dates back to 1850. Prior to 1970 all the wines were fermented and matured in old oak barrels; by 1980 the old oak had been thrown out and the domaine had switched entirely to stainless steel. Today, it is run by Guillaume Gicqueteau-Michel and comprises 25 hectares of vineyards, mainly Premier and Grand Cru. It remains the byword for unoaked Chablis. Once again quantities are very small this year; in fact, 2016 is the smallest vintage Guillaume has ever made. As a longstanding customer, we have been looked after, however, with only the Clos and Grenouilles significantly down on 2015 volumes. Guillaume feels that this is a classic vintage for Chablis, and one which allows each individual terroir to shine through clearly. Despite the challenges of the vintage, this is an excellent range of wines which display great typicity.
Ready, but will improve,
Jean-Claude was thrilled with the quality of fruit harvested in Fourchaume in 2016 – and there’s tremendous energy and purity to this cuvée. He describes it as “supple, without being fat”, which is to say it’s medium- to full-bodied, and less mineral than, say, his Valmur. The nose is open and expressive, with aromas including tropical fruit and orange blossom, but there’s ample acidity to keep the whole thing fresh and focused. Drink now to 2028.
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Will Heslop, Burgundy Buying Assistant (winter 2019)
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
From a southeast-facing parcel in the lieu-dit of Chapelot, with classic Kimmeridgian soils, this cuvée is powerful yet lithe, like a middle-weight boxer. Open and flattering on the nose, there is ripe citrus to the fore, then plenty of fresh, zesty acidity for balance and a cleansing herbaceous note on the finish. Drink 2020-2027.
Domaine Louis Michel,
Ready, but will keep,
Guillaume describes this as a connoisseur’s Chablis because it can be coltish in youth and demands time for all the components to knit together. It owes its ripe bouquet and fleshy palate to the vineyard’s clay soils and the age of the vines, planted in 1943. Already, however, it gains focus towards the finish, which is long and saline. Drink 2021-2027.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
As in 2016, Guillaume harvested just half a normal crop in 2017. While his village holdings suffered most in 2016, the Premiers and Grands Crus were worst affected this time, with frost to blame. Nonetheless, Guillaume was characteristically cheerful when we visited, and full of enthusiasm for a vintage he describes as “old school – before global warming”. Guillaume continues to use stainless steel for all his cuvées and has again produced a range of wines for which transparency is the watchword: they express as faithfully as possible each vineyard’s distinct terroir.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd