Southern Rhône Blend

The rosés from 2016 were a joy to blend, with Merlot and Syrah lending spice and fruit to the core of Cinsault’s soft red fruit and, finally, Mourvèdre, warming and gently savoury, completing the assemblage with real panache, grounding the wine’s ethereal charm with unassuming dignity.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.

There is more red clay underneath these vines and 85 percent of them are Grenache. The balancing Mourvèdre is grown in a vineyard which is surrounded by the eponymous scrub. The felicitous blend of soils and natural environment brings out the fresher, more linear, side to the Grenache, and is complemented by the sooty, spicy complexity of Mourvèdre. Concentration and firm tannins do not seem to contradict an engaging almost ethereal character that is very typical of this grower. Drink now to 2023. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.

Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

Marc Perrin likes to characterise Coudoulet as a happy battle between the “fireworks” of the Grenache and the more restrained and “lean” Syrah. Lean in a positive sense, of course. To this, however, must be added 30 percent of Mourvèdre (the same percentage as the Grenache) and 20 percent of Cinsault (the same amount as the Syrah). Mourvèdre adds spice and depth, while Cinsault delivers a gentle feminine charm. Indeed, almost paradoxically, given the generosity of the vintage, the wine is less fleshy and opulent at this early stage. To me it recalls 2010 in its authority and linear personality, both more than favourable precursors. Drink 2017-2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The Perrins are far from equivocal in outlining their aspirations in the Southern Rhône; they wish to match the undisputed primacy of their Beaucastel estate with hegemony of classic vineyards to demonstrate the best characteristics of the best villages: Voltaire without Pangloss. Nurturing and guiding as appropriate, they have rapidly built up an enviable portfolio which has gone virtually all the way to the realisation of this ambition. Their attention has been focused especially on the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, both of which share altitude and aspect to suit the subtly changing climate in the region.

Sophie and Catherine were, unsurprisingly, amongst the first of a growing band of brothers (and sisters) to plant over the river in the slightly undervalued appellation of Lirac. Minute geological differences have a big effect on Grenache especially, which can result in wines, such as this, that are richly robust, wonderfully dark of fruit, yet approachable by way of temperament. Well worth the detour. Drink 2018-2023. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

An older plot, the Lopy, yields wines which are slow to evolve, their Mourvèdre content (30 percent) suiting the vintage and adding a savoury undercurrent to the Grenache, which controls early progress from the quarterdeck. Syrah fills the topsails and a little Cinsault teases the rudder of a pretty vessel which glides with an unassuming femininity but does not lack for power beneath. 
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

This beautiful 17th-century estate dominates the village of Gigondas, just as this outstanding wine will come to dominate the ever-growing reputation of its wines. The investment made by the Perrins here demonstrates their faith in these cooler sites; in this instance the north-west orientation defines the micro climate and ensures a late harvest. Fifteen months later, the latent complexity has been captured and bottled and the results are superb: Grenache dominates with over 90 percent of the blend, and very successful it is too. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the midpalate focus, purity and impressive length. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 80 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Syrah (8%), Cinsault (7%) and Clairette (5%). The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Clairette. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Made with 100 percent Grenache from the sandy soils just to the north of the Crau plateau, Saumades is an elegant, almost feminine wine, with a floral charm on the nose and a pleasing purity of hedgerow fruit on the palate. The 2015 vintage was warm but not overwhelmingly hot, as evidenced by the depth of colour in this wine - episcopal and almost luminous; by the generous aromas of blueberry, forest floor and thyme; and by an impressive texture in the mouth, which marries firm, yet silky tannins and a fulsome, seductive core of fruit. It is a near-neighbour, both stylistically and geographically, to Château Rayas. Drink now to 2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

A felicitous blend of Grenache (50 percent), Syrah (30 percent) and Mourvèdre (20 percent), the 2013 has been matured in foudre, barrique and cask and is suitably complex, without losing the wonderfully fresh and exuberant sweet mid-palate mouth-feel for which the domaine is now justly celebrated.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

The story of Sénéchaux has a familiar refrain of low yields (22 hectolitres per hectare), a late harvest, the danger of rot in the vineyard after the coulure, and further patience required in the winery to encourage the malolactic fermentation to take place. Bernard Tranchecoste is not timid about rehearsing the problems, which is why the tasting comes as a very agreeable surprise. Heterogeneous ripening in three very different locations does not seem in any way to have affected the overall equilibrium of what will prove to be a very impressive ensemble. One of the shinning successes in the vintage is Senechaux’s 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape. Checking in as a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre that was aged mostly in foudre (55%), but also in barrels (35%) and concrete (10%), it offers gorgeous aromas of sweet spice, ground pepper and garrigue to go with kirsch and blackberry-styled fruit. Possessing medium-bodied richness, loads of fruit, sweet tannin and integrated acidity, it should shine on release, and evolve gracefully through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Isabel certainly has a penchant for making several cuvées, understandably, given the diversity of the terroir at her disposal. It is, however, reassuring that her “entry-level” wine is so good. It brings to mind the aromas of a Provençal market place without the noise. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The growing stature of Isabel Ferrando in this large village is bolstered by increasing international accolades, and, maybe even more importantly, by the generosity of the commentaries of her peers. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandi is fairly traditional with no de-stemming, cement-tank maturation and a taste for délestage (rack and return). Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées, all, thankfully pleasingly different from each other.

Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

One of the few CDNP estates to use all permitted varieties, this served Vincent well in 2013 where Mourvèdre and Syrah came to the rescue of a less productive Grenache. It comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent of other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on). I tasted through a numbers of foudres of different coopers and age which had already seen six months élevage and will see another six months ageing before bottling. Upon tasting an assemblage of all those foudres it became obvious that the higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm black berries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouth feel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like silky quality to the tannins.
Fine Wine Team The Papal indulgence in 2013 comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on) The higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm blackberries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely, mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouthfeel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like, silky quality to the tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Clos des Papes is now the address in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – indeed, many would contend in the whole Rhône Valley. The great work started by Paul Avril has now been continued by his son Vincent, one of the most widely-travelled, generous and gifted vignerons in France. The multiplicity of sites, allied to the minute yields (13.5 hectolitres per hectare is hardly commercially viable) have ensured that in 2013 the difficult conditions, especially for the Grenache, have been circumnavigated. In a year when Mourvèdre was on occasion harvested before Grenache, it comes as no surprise that the former takes up a higher percentage of the wine than usual-30 percent Mourvèdre compared to 55 percent Grenache, the latter of which usually accounts for 60 percent or more. The harvest was eventually finished on 18th October and Vincent compares it to 2004 and 2011, the earlier year drinking exquisitely now, the more recent one still far too young to appreciate fully but not lacking in potential. Vincent’s wines are symphonic in scope but precise in detail.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.