Torbreck

Co-fermented with a splash of Viognier, the 2007 Run Rig gives a very deep garnet-purple color and a perfumed nose of warm cassis, crushed blackberries and blueberries over anise, cassia, cloves, tea leaves, rose hips plus earthy hints of black truffles and tilled loam. The full-bodied palate offers rich, ripe but not over-ripe fruit with a taut structure of firm grainy tannins and crisp acid, finishing very long with a gamey / savory character coming through with some cedar and baking spices.

Not a man known for his modesty, David Powell was notably less humble than usual during my recent visit. That overly confident smirk that he wears when he’s about to reveal a winning hand has no doubt incited more than a few barroom riots. It was only human nature that I was subconsciously willing his current releases to be even a little underwhelming. And I almost wish I could tell you they were. If his demeanor can at times be enough to set bloods boiling, before I get to the tasting notes I’ll inject a few words about what does impress me about Powell.

He is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about what happens in his vineyards, perhaps more so than in the winery. He has close relationships with his growers and calls the shots when it comes to vineyard management, recently telling me he had to end the contract with a grower of a fabulous vineyard of ancient vines this year because the grower simply refused to follow his instructions. The structures of his red wines particularly stand out to me.

Through developing an individual approach to tannin management and extracting a quality and texture of tannins that comes purely from grape skins that are carefully reared and harvested within a tight window of ripening, he creates some truly iconic reds…though even at the more modestly priced wines can age very gracefully. Finally Powell does not release wines that aren’t up to his high standards and as smug as he can be about his successes...
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - Wine Advocate # 192 Dec 2010

The flagship 2004 Run Rig is 96.5% Shiraz and 3.5% Viognier with the Shiraz component aged for 30 months in a mixture of new and used French oak. Yields were a minuscule 14 hl/ha (about 1 ton per acre). Saturated opaque purple/black, it has a remarkably kinky, exotic perfume of fresh asphalt, pencil lead, smoke, pepper, game, blueberry and black raspberry. Full-bodied and voluptuous in the mouth, the wine is dense and packed, with amazing purity, sweet tannins, and a complex collection of sensory stimuli. The wine demands 10 years of cellaring.

Torbreck, under the leadership of owner/winemaker David Powell, remains a Barossa Valley benchmark as well as one of the world’s greatest wine estates. The top cuvees are limited production and expensive but there are also some outstanding values in the portfolio. With regard to the current vintages for the Barossa red wines, David Powell states “? 2004 is more savory while 2005 has more purity and definition. 2004 is more classic, 2005 will take longer to come around.
Jay Miller - Wine Advocate #173 Oct 2007 

RunRig has often drawn comparison with the beautifully fragrant & tautly structured wines produced from the steep slopes of the Northern Rhône Valley’s Appellation of Côte Rôtie.  A beautiful and flawless blend of 98.5% Shiraz and 1.5% Viognier.

Very serious Old Vine Shiraz (the oldest vines are over 100 years old), this is dark and pure with mineral laced black and blueberry fruit with notes of violets, anise, pepper and scorched earth.  Full bodied, layer upon layer of fruit but not overdone – the wizardry here to produce such a dense and opulent wine which somehow remains pacy, light on its feet; real finesse. Fine, silky tannin and crisp acidity. 
A few percent of the Viognier grape is added to the blend, lifting the aromatics and injecting even more vigour. A Runrig showing the power we expect with remarkable refinement. Drink 2019 – 2045+
Martyn Rolph, Sales Manager

During our tastings Factor is often placed as a natural complement to Descendent; as Descendent includes a little Viognier whereas Factor does not. This year, however, I feel there is much more in common between Factor, and dare I say it, Run Rig. 

The palate is extraordinary supple, there are immediate waves of pure fruit washing over the palate but in this 2013 there seems to be a greater focus and freshness than I have seen in Torbreck wines in the past. On the palate, there is vast depth of fruit and structure, simply: it just keeps going. The finish is expertly judged and finely honed it leaves me feeling that this is a dark, brooding wine, there is something almost meaty, animalistic, on the verge of guttural. The outright purity & freshness means this will drink early, but patience will be rewarded, 2024-2035+.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

Torbreck’s Les Amis exemplifies first-rate Barossa Grenache and 2013 was an exceptional vintage for Grenache. The fruit comes from very old vines, many of which are over 100 years old. Tiny yields and minute production has led to this intense, complex and elegant beauty.

A dense ruby red appearance swirls gracefully around the glass, exuding inviting aromas of plum and black cherry intertwined with soft smoked herbs and gentle spice. The palate is smooth, displaying juicy damson compote with hints of savoury complexity, sweet spice and wood smoke. Although extremely approachable now, this wine will continue to evolve wonderfully over the next 15 years or more.
Stephanie Barlow, Private Account Manager

Torbreck see this as the most Barossa wine they produce – they’re not wrong in 2010 either. The nose of this wonderful wine strikes you immediately as very fine, very serious Australian Shiraz. This density, complexity and purity of the dark and brooding fruit is that which can only come from meticulously tended, old vines and assured, hands-off winemaking. Wines of this quality from the Barossa can be drunk young, but I would implore any buyer to cellar for this for a decade as I am sure it will evolve into one of the great Torbreck wines. Only question is, bottles, magnums or bigger?
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

The name ‘Woodcutter's’ originates from when David Powell spent several years working in the Scottish Highlands as a lumberjack in the Torbreck forest.
 
At just over £10 a bottle this should be must buy. The black fruits and pepper notes delivers surprising depth and concentration for its 'level'. There is a small presence of tannins suggesting that it’ll age well over the next 5 years. Surely this is the perfect BBQ wine to buy now and enjoy over the nex few years up to the 2021 Ashes series!
Hugo Thompson, Private Account Manager

From the higher altitude vineyards of the Eden Valley comes this 100% Shiraz wine in a slightly different style than the rest of the Torbreck range. This is a much more taut, focused wine – still with plenty of fruit but a little more “marshaled’. The house style of elegance and freshness is still obvious though, as is the staggering complexity – you really will struggle to find a more complex Australian wine anywhere near this price. This is hugely impressive.
(Mark Ross, Fine Wine Commercial Manager)

The Descendant cuvee is made from grapes taken from a single vineyard planted in 1994 with old RunRig vines (RunRig has some of the oldest vines in Australia). The blend is 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier and, as a result, the wine has extra richness and a touch more ‘zip’ than The Factor. It has a huge volume of fruit but it is well controlled and still has bags of complexity and the trademark epic finish.
(Mark Ross, Fine Wine Commercial Manager)

In Scottish, 'The Laird' refers to the Lord of the Manor. A rare bottling only produced when conditions are right. This single vineyard Shiraz comes from the very old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga in the Barossa Valley (now solely owned by Torbreck), considered to be among the finest vineyards in all of the Barossa. The first vintage was 2005 and 2010 represents only the 4th vintage produced to date. 2010 was an epic year in the Barossa and this is surely destined to be an icon.

A few hours coaxing from the glass reveals a smorgasbord of aromas, dark chocolate covered plums, crème de cassis. This rich exotic element balanced with notes of undergrowth, anise and hints of Lapsang Souchong. Bold and unashamedly mouth coating flowing onto a fine mid palate with bags of energy and precision from the outstandingly balanced acidity. An almost menthol like element flowing onto the persistent length. Opulent and harmonious all in one. A beauty now but give it 5 years to meld and soften and enjoy to 2035+.
Ben Upjohn, Fine Wine Sales Manager
According to Robert Parker, “Torbreck remains a Barossa Valley benchmark, as well as one of the world’s greatest wine estates.” The wines of Torbreck have a very strong Berry Bros. & Rudd staff following. We whole heartedly agree with Robert Parker (above) and Neal Martin when he says “….this is one of my favourite Australian wines, big and bold like many others, but each wine imbued with its own individuality.”

Torbreck is one of the most iconic estates in Australia and they craft a large yet quality-driven portfolio ranging from the deliciously dry Steading blanc and juicy Cotes du Rhone styled “Cuvee Juveniles” to the vinous colossi that are “RunRig” and “The Laird”. Balance is the key to these wines. This is a quality that often eludes the wines from hotter regions such as the Barossa Valley. With only good soil and middle age vines it is easy to make blockbuster reds in the Barossa; what is very difficult is to make wines with power combined with balance, lift and purity that comes with the very best old vines. It is this balance of power and purity that is the hallmark of Torbreck wines and, quite simply, this is why we like them so much. All the wines are impressive, and the estate deserves all the praise it gets.

This single vineyard wine, located next to the winery. Planted by Dave Powell in 1994 with cuttings of old Run Rig vineyards - some of the oldest genetic material in Australia and the World. A blend of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier. Impenetrable, opaque core.

This stands out from Torbreck’s other 2012s in that it has a more singularly fruit focused nose of sweet, rich, dark plum and cherry and some attractive stewed notes in the background. A velvety smooth cloak of chocolate and vanilla hides an almost minty freshness beneath but this is about as close as one can get to Black Forest Gateau in a glass. A decadently delicious Descendant. 2018 – 2025+
Peter Newton, Private Account Manager

According to Robert Parker, “Torbreck remains a Barossa Valley benchmark, as well as one of the world’s greatest wine estates.” The wines of Torbreck have a very strong Berry Bros. & Rudd staff following. We whole heartedly agree with Robert Parker (above) and Neal Martin when he says “….this is one of my favourite Australian wines, big and bold like many others, but each wine imbued with its own individuality.”

Torbreck is one of the most iconic estates in Australia and they craft a large yet quality-driven portfolio ranging from the deliciously dry Steading blanc and juicy Cotes du Rhone styled “Cuvee Juveniles” to the vinous colossi that are “RunRig” and “The Laird”. Balance is the key to these wines. This is a quality that often eludes the wines from hotter regions such as the Barossa Valley. With only good soil and middle age vines it is easy to make blockbuster reds in the Barossa; what is very difficult is to make wines with power combined with balance, lift and purity that comes with the very best old vines. It is this balance of power and purity that is the hallmark of Torbreck wines and, quite simply, this is why we like them so much. All the wines are impressive, and the estate deserves all the praise it gets.

The Struie is a blend of 44 year old Eden Valley Shiraz vines and 80 year old Barossa Shiraz, the former giving lift and acidity, the latter richness and weight.
(Joss Fowler, BBR Fine Wine)

In Scottish, 'The Laird' refers to the Lord of the Manor.  This single vineyard Shiraz comes from Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt's very old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga in the Barossa Valley.

This wine impresses from the off, a very dark and vibrant nose is alive with complex red and black fruits. It is not fruit power alone however, there is sweet French oak weaving through the aromas without dominating in any way.  The nose is less than half the story – the palate is awe inspiring, astonishingly complex – simply this one of the great Australian Shiraz’s.
Gary Owen, Fine Wine Manager

There is a dark, rich, very Australian feel to this, the fruit is pure and supple with refined tannins which keep the wine in very good balance. This is hugely enjoyable and wine that begs to be drunk from a large format with good friends.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

A single vineyard planted in 1994 with cuttings from old RinRig vines (hence the Descendant) – some of the oldest genetic material in Australia. This is Barossa’s first co-fermented Shiraz/Viognier – the Shiraz is crushed directly on top of lightly pressed Viognier, fermented then matured for eighteen months in barrels previously used for RunRig.

Deep red clay soils give the wine a savoury edge and a rich texture, with silk-like mouthfeel. This will age impeccably well for those that have the patience.

The name Woodcutter’s stems from David Powell’s several years spent working the Scottish Highlands as a lumberjack in the Torbreck forest. This wine reflects the up & coming Shiraz vineyards of the Barossa, rather than the battle hardened old vines which make up the core of the other cuvees.

Harvested in late March this is, to a fashion, the flagship of the estate in that it exemplifies all that the estate is about. The bush vines of Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro, planted at the turn of the century, give an almost Burgundian elegance to a wine whose components would suggest southern Rhone. The palate is elegant and pure with subtle notes of crushed cherries, earth and cedar all neatly wound by a taut spine of acidity and ripe supple tannins. This will reward a few years in the cellar with interest and, notably, it is invariably David’s favourite wine of the range.

In the words of its makers, “ our homage to the great old Shiraz vines of the Barossa
Valley and the growers who painstakingly tend and nurture them each year”. This is
perhaps the essence of classic Barossa shiraz.

RunRig has often drawn comparison with the beautifully fragrant & tautly structured wines produced from the steep slopes of the Northern Rhône Valley’s Appellation of Côte Rôtie.  A beautiful and flawless blend of 97.5% Shiraz and 2.5% Viognier.
 
A brooding darkness of morello cherry, blackberry fruits, spiced apricots and olive tapenade on the nose gives a hint at the serious beast of a wine we are about to encounter.  The palate is powerful with a huge mid palate of taught tannins and acidity, perfectly matched by a rich core of fruit, dark chocolate and espresso.  A beguiling, multi-faceted wine. One for the long haul, drink 2018 – 2030.
Stuart Rae, Fine Wine Manager
 
For me, the finest wine of Torbreck and one of the most impressive New World wines you could ever hope to taste. There’s a dash of Viognier here to enliven and lift the aromatics, but it’s the old vine Shiraz driven rich, black fruit characters, chocolate, liquorice and spice notes which set the tone. Layer after layer, this is super charged but somehow a sense of precision and finesse remains. The real joy of the great Torbreck wines is the marriage of texture and big dark flavours with a refinement, balance and poise rarely seen in the Barossa.
Martyn Rolph, Fine Wine Manager

The name Woodcutter’s stems from David Powell’s several years spent working the Scottish Highlands as a lumberjack in the Torbreck forest.  This wine reflects the up and coming Shiraz vineyards of the Barossa, rather than the battle hardened old vines which make up the core of the other cuvées.
(BBR Fine Wine)

Our initial tasting note contains the word ‘incredible’ four times – normally that might be seen as overdoing it, but it probably does stack up in the case of this wine. 97% Shiraz and 3% Viognier taken from vines between 120 and 160 years old, the stage is set for a very special experience. Often favourably tasted alongside great Rhône wines, specifically the more serious single-vineyard Côte-Rôties, this has a very exotic nose with layer upon layer of nuance, and an enormous (but not overdone) mouthfeel.