Gigondas

Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

There is no Mourvèdre in this particular lieu-dit but 20 percent Syrah has been added to the 70 percent Grenache and 10 percent Cinsault. A relatively modest colour belies explosive aromatics-redolent, appropriately enough, of jambon cru and fireworks. The palate is elegant, again savoury with hints of fennel and even aniseed on the finish. Meaning literally ‘where the wind blows’, Ventabren is a strong effort in 2013, recalling the not-so-distant halcyon days of 2010.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Moulin de la Gardette is a bijou 10-hectare vineyard, situated on the slopes of Les Dentelles de Montmirail. They are a little unusual in that their office and shop are located right in the centre of the Medieval village, therefore a good place to visit just before or after a trip to the neighbouring Oustalet restaurant. Jean Baptiste Meunier is a thoughtful vigneron, and all of his vineyards are accreditied AB (Agriculture Biologique) by Ecocert. Playing in the same ballpark, the 2013 Gigondas Ventabren (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault from Chalk, Clay and Sandstone soils) exhibits lots of Bing cherry, violets, pepper and spice to go with medium-bodied depth and richness on the palate. It has juicy, integrated acidity, sweet tannin and makes the most of the vintage. I suspect this too will be ready to go on release and show best in its first 7-8 years of life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the Gigondas appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

The Gigondas is from vines located in a site named Grand Montmirail, a combination of limestone and marl nurtures the fruit, 90% of which is Grenache and 10% Syrah. Strict biodynamic viticulture followed by 18 months ageing in neutral containers have yielded a muscular wine, with expressive black fruits and finely etched tannins. This 2011 is a most impressive achievement.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Domaine D’Ouréa are another new producer we have added to our list this year; the fruits, if you will pardon the mixed metaphor, of our bi-annual trawl through the rising (and falling) stars of the Valley in the aptly-named Découvertes series of wine fairs. Adrien Rousten does not lack for ambition and fortunately there is no shortage of skill here. He farms biodynamically and has well-located vines in both villages. He is certainly one to watch.

The clay in Aidren’s Gigondas vines is of a redder colour, indicative of iron oxide in the soil. Some of the vines are a little further up the hill, where the soil is stonier and even less fertile. The 2012 is dense with tightly packed tannins, smoky and savoury notes and a compelling, linear finish. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Aidren Rousten is a vigneron’s vigneron; passionate, committed and almost protective of his vines, which cover five hectares in Gigondas and 10 in Vacqueyras, the latter located high above the village, on the border with Beaumes-De-Venise. Biodynamic viticulture and an almost quixotic refusal to compromise have resulted in yields of 17 hectare litres per hectare in 2012 and, unsurprisingly, magnificently expressive fruit.

For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.

Yves’s top Grenache is only made in the best years, demonstrating his affection for 2011 which he praises for its purity and (relative) approachability. The latter quality is not immediately obvious such is the power and concentration that has been coaxed from these higher vines. The rewards of patience will be great indeed.

This is pre-phylloxera Grenache that’s farmed on safre (sand) and makes up 90% of the concentrated blend. A beguiling perfume of lavender, aniseed and macerated plum does not let up on the palate which is powerfully pure and adamantine in its construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The adoption of new nomenclature, complete with smart new crested labels, runs deeper than skilful marketing, reflecting as it does the fact that the Perrins are more than merely an up-market négociant. The partnerships cultivated are far more than that and actual ownership now extends to an impressive three hundred hectares, each one afforded the same oraganic treatment as at Beaucastel itself. The increased emphasis on the villages of Vinsobres and, in particular, Gigondas, has helped to elevate the reputations of both greatly.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

The Grand Projet is almost complete and very grand it is too. The restored 16^th century Clos is located in the centre of Gigondas, its fortifications commanding the valley and   its wine taking the appellation to new heights. Châteauneuf-du-Pape beware; Gigondas, with its altitude, its old vines and wonderfully complex geology, is now making some outstanding wines, none more so than this example. The blend is classic (80% Grenache, and the balance shared between Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Morvèdre) and the wine, aged for 15 months, is silky and long.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The over-achieving Perrins have made excellent progress in their aspiration to become the leading négociant in the Southern Rhône; indeed I would venture that they have already achieved this and the additional benefit of being actually located in situ only strengthens this position.  With subtle changes to nomenclature and livery, along with the clear focus on Gigondas and Vinsobres as the villages deemed primes inter pares, progress has been impressive indeed, as , of course, are the wines.

A perfumed nose of rose petal, cardamom seeds, damsons and Provençal herbs precedes a palate which is dense and muscular but equally charming. This is another fabulous effort from the extensive and impressive Perrin range.
Nicholas Stewart, Wine Buying

L’Argnée is a pre-phylloxera vineyard located in a 0.8-hectare plot in the south-west of the appellation, where sand dominates the soils more than elsewhere around the village. Indeed the plot boarders on the appellation of Sablet, which is known for its charming wines. Gigondas grit is not entirely forsaken however; the 2013 has a rich, dark chocolate core and decorative buttressing tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

This beautiful 17th-century estate dominates the village of Gigondas, just as this outstanding wine will come to dominate the ever-growing reputation of its wines. The investment made by the Perrins here demonstrates their faith in these cooler sites; in this instance the north-west orientation defines the micro climate and ensures a late harvest. Fifteen months later, the latent complexity has been captured and bottled and the results are superb: Grenache dominates with over 90 percent of the blend, and very successful it is too. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the midpalate focus, purity and impressive length. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

This 100% Grenache is from a small plot high above the village and fills one foudre only; ripe, rich and rewarding, this is a worthy addition to the canon of top single-varietal Southern Rhônes.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

From centurion vines on the edge of Sablet, this pre-phylloxera sandy plot has produced a powerful and richly concentrated wine, its sinewy chocolate texture indulged in a seamless construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Chteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Pre et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin

Vines from the southern, more sandy (aka safre here) soils have yielded, albeit in parsimonious volumes, one of the greatest wines from this beautiful medieval village. The blend is shared evenly between Grenache and Syrah. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the mid-palate focus and the purity on the finish. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...

Now boasting two cuvées, Les Pallières is, in our opinion, one of the most improved of all Southern Rhône properties. A certain rusticity has been replaced in its Gigondas Vieilles Vignes manifestation by an attractive roundness of fruit with garrigue and black fruits to the fore. This is powerful and very complete.

Gigondas is the most exciting village in the Southern Rhône at the moment. Beyond its sleepy medieval façade and implicit inferiority complex vis-à-vis Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, a Cru since 1971, is re-establishing itself as a key appellation. It was ever thus, and the name itself (from the Latin jocunditas, meaning ‘merry city’) hints at an approach to life which is not without its merits.

Jean-Baptiste Meunier took over this ancient family estate (dating from 1670, it is even older than BBR!) in 1988 and has quietly brought it to its current size of 9 hectares, with some of the Grenache vines now having achieved centurion status. Organic by inclination and with the occasional biodynamic impulse, Jean -Baptiste makes some of the best Gigondas that is available today.

Cuvée Ventabren is all aged in oak, relatively young Burgundian oak to be precise. There is no Mourvèdre in this blend but 20% of Syrah has been added (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsualt) . From the excellent, poised 2010 this is a superb Gigondas, with a ripe forest floor nose and a profoundly satisfying palate, the confluence of the taster’s adulation matched by the harmonious interplay of tannin, fruit and acidity. Far from the rough and drying tannins that one has, for whatever reason, come to associate with Gigondas, this is a supremely harmonious exemplar.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

With an astonishingly delicate nose, the Cuvée Confidential seems almost feminine, an adjective seldom encountered when describing this appellation. Sourced from 40-year-old Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache vines, the wine possesses a weight of dense black fruit with a flowery garland and hints of incense. This has a most impressive length and a very harmonious finish.

The Terre des Aînés is from the Saurels’ oldest, most gnarled vines (80 years old) and is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. Powerful spice and black fruit notes are complemented by very pure and focused tannins, and a wonderfully refreshing finish.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

Rhône 2010 Berrys' Best Buys - Southern Belles
Domaine Montirius is an impeccable biodynamic estate that produces wines of brilliant richness and depth with the characteristic notes of Provençal herb and personality. This is really great quality at a really great price.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)

More elegant than previously, this cuvée, which is made up of 80% old-vine Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, still boasts astonishing concentration and very powerful tannins, so fear not those who love robust Gigondas with their game dishes. I think the tannin management is better than ever this year and beyond all the power and glory there is a purity and focus which is extremely impressive!
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012)

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

Located at 350-400 metres, the Gigondas vines are located in soils of crushed limestone and grey-brown clay, its wines correspondingly denser and richer than the Vacqueyras. Aromatics of gunpowder and jambon cru are followed by a finely textured palate, its intimations of dark chocolate indulgence held in check by dextrous acidity and very fine tannins.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

La Bastide St Vincent has had a terrific couple of years, so much so that these two exemplary wines are now on allocation. Such is the price of success, I suppose. When we introduced the domaine to the UK nearly a decade ago, we had an extensive blind tasting of some of the great and the good from these two famous villages. Laurent’s wines excelled then, and continue to do so now.

A three-week maceration is a little longer than usual but Laurent felt that it would be beneficial to coax extract and flavour, not to mention colour, from this wonderful cuvée. The pretty vineyards have yellow and blue clay as their ‘roche mère’, and are surrounded, evocatively, by laurel and pine trees.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 90 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Mourvèdre. The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

As the name implies, this cuvée is from the higher vineyards, its freshness and lift inspiring beyond the power and concentration of the mid-palate. Hitherto understandably reserved, the wine has real purity and great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

The canicule (heat wave) in July 2015 caused a little anxiety over these three venerable plots, but Christine and Eric, long-term biodynamic advocates, held their nerve and the gamble paid off. A relatively stormy August nourished the vines and the natural balance was maintained. The final blend, as usual, is made up of 80 percent Grenache and 20 percent Mourvèdre and is rich and rounded, with dark fruit to the fore and hints of black pepper and soft spice in support. Drink 2019 - 2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves.