Gigondas

Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

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The clay in Aidren’s Gigondas vines is of a redder colour, indicative of iron oxide in the soil. Some of the vines are a little further up the hill, where the soil is stonier and even less fertile. The 2012 is dense with tightly packed tannins, smoky and savoury notes and a compelling, linear finish. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Aidren Rousten is a vigneron’s vigneron; passionate, committed and almost protective of his vines, which cover five hectares in Gigondas and 10 in Vacqueyras, the latter located high above the village, on the border with Beaumes-De-Venise. Biodynamic viticulture and an almost quixotic refusal to compromise have resulted in yields of 17 hectare litres per hectare in 2012 and, unsurprisingly, magnificently expressive fruit.

There is no Mourvèdre in this particular lieu-dit but 20 percent Syrah has been added to the 70 percent Grenache and 10 percent Cinsault. A relatively modest colour belies explosive aromatics-redolent, appropriately enough, of jambon cru and fireworks. The palate is elegant, again savoury with hints of fennel and even aniseed on the finish. Meaning literally ‘where the wind blows’, Ventabren is a strong effort in 2013, recalling the not-so-distant halcyon days of 2010.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Moulin de la Gardette is a bijou 10-hectare vineyard, situated on the slopes of Les Dentelles de Montmirail. They are a little unusual in that their office and shop are located right in the centre of the Medieval village, therefore a good place to visit just before or after a trip to the neighbouring Oustalet restaurant. Jean Baptiste Meunier is a thoughtful vigneron, and all of his vineyards are accreditied AB (Agriculture Biologique) by Ecocert. Playing in the same ballpark, the 2013 Gigondas Ventabren (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cinsault from Chalk, Clay and Sandstone soils) exhibits lots of Bing cherry, violets, pepper and spice to go with medium-bodied depth and richness on the palate. It has juicy, integrated acidity, sweet tannin and makes the most of the vintage. I suspect this too will be ready to go on release and show best in its first 7-8 years of life.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

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The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

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L’Argnée is a pre-phylloxera vineyard located in a 0.8-hectare plot in the south-west of the appellation, where sand dominates the soils more than elsewhere around the village. Indeed the plot boarders on the appellation of Sablet, which is known for its charming wines. Gigondas grit is not entirely forsaken however; the 2013 has a rich, dark chocolate core and decorative buttressing tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

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The Grand Projet is almost complete and very grand it is too. The restored 16^th century Clos is located in the centre of Gigondas, its fortifications commanding the valley and   its wine taking the appellation to new heights. Châteauneuf-du-Pape beware; Gigondas, with its altitude, its old vines and wonderfully complex geology, is now making some outstanding wines, none more so than this example. The blend is classic (80% Grenache, and the balance shared between Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Morvèdre) and the wine, aged for 15 months, is silky and long.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The over-achieving Perrins have made excellent progress in their aspiration to become the leading négociant in the Southern Rhône; indeed I would venture that they have already achieved this and the additional benefit of being actually located in situ only strengthens this position.  With subtle changes to nomenclature and livery, along with the clear focus on Gigondas and Vinsobres as the villages deemed primes inter pares, progress has been impressive indeed, as , of course, are the wines.

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This beautiful 17th-century estate dominates the village of Gigondas, just as this outstanding wine will come to dominate the ever-growing reputation of its wines. The investment made by the Perrins here demonstrates their faith in these cooler sites; in this instance the north-west orientation defines the micro climate and ensures a late harvest. Fifteen months later, the latent complexity has been captured and bottled and the results are superb: Grenache dominates with over 90 percent of the blend, and very successful it is too. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the midpalate focus, purity and impressive length. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

The initial confusion engendered by splitting this domaine into two separate cuves, Racines and Terrrasses du Diable, has been more than justified by the differing styles and the burgeoning quality. In 2009, the Racines seemed to be the more complete and satisfying wine, although it was a close call. The wine is fine and elegant, with earth and licorice notes complementing the blackberry fruit. Precise of tannin and long of structure, this is a great effort.

From centurion vines on the edge of Sablet, this pre-phylloxera sandy plot has produced a powerful and richly concentrated wine, its sinewy chocolate texture indulged in a seamless construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Chteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Pre et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

As the names suggest, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses ( Daniel’s other Gigondas) , but from older vines, over 65 years of age in the case of the Grenache which makes up 90% of this cuvée, the balance made up of Mourvèdre. A surprisingly feminine floral aromatic is followed by a fine and elegant palate with notes of myrtle and licorice, mocha and forest floor all evidenced.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Daniel Brunier detects a ‘strong sinewy’ character in his 2010s, something of the 2005 in other words, but with greater depth. His wines are perhaps more Roundhead than the Cavalier vintages of 2009 and 2007 and will be very long-lasting as a result. The on-going evolution ( if you will pardon the tautology) of La Roquète continues to impress and les Pallières bears virtually no resemblance at all to the raw and sinewy Gigondas I first encountered, with no lack of trepidation, a decade ago.

The Terre des Aînés is from the Saurels’ oldest, most gnarled vines (80 years old) and is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. Powerful spice and black fruit notes are complemented by very pure and focused tannins, and a wonderfully refreshing finish.

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 90 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Mourvèdre. The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Perfumed nose of marzipan and sweet liquorice. Seductive, svelte and soft on the palate, this is an absolutely moreish wine, very easy to drink and great alone or with white meat dishes.
Hamish Orr-Ewing, Private Account Manager

Crushed limestone soils, with alluvial fossils and loess make up the rather distinctive terroir surrounding the medieval village of Gigondas, long seem as the leader of the pack of villages that are no longer prepared to sit in the shadows of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The altitude of Gigondas is very much to its favour, especially as one tries to tame the worst excesses of high levels of alcohol. All somewhat paradoxical in a village famed for its heady and almost rustic wines. No so with this one; a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, the 2011 has attractive macerated plum and bouquet garni aromas and a pleasing shard of flinty acidity to underpin the concentrated dark fruit.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Grenache is a generous and indulgent variety; for Laurent Daniel in 2011 the main problem was to ensure that alcoholic and phenolic ripeness achieved some kind of coincidence, but without excessive levels of alcohol. The selection of the correct picking date is essential; only two things are worse than a cooked flavour in a wine and these are flavours which are green and flavours which attain the egregious distinction of being both cooked and green. Fortunately Laurent has avoided all the potential pit-falls and he describes 2011 as a stylistic marriage of 2007 and 2004.

This wine is a blend of Grenache (70%), Mourvèdre (15%) Syrah (10%) and Cinsault (5%) all assembled together and aged in foudre for nearly a year. The fruit character is generous, with blueberry and plum underscored by more savoury elements and hints of tobacco and graphite. Peppery and perfumed, this is the ideal match for well-seasoned casseroles and game.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.

The canicule (heat wave) in July 2015 caused a little anxiety over these three venerable plots, but Christine and Eric, long-term biodynamic advocates, held their nerve and the gamble paid off. A relatively stormy August nourished the vines and the natural balance was maintained. The final blend, as usual, is made up of 80 percent Grenache and 20 percent Mourvèdre and is rich and rounded, with dark fruit to the fore and hints of black pepper and soft spice in support. Drink 2019 - 2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves.