Gigondas

This beautiful 17th-century estate dominates the village of Gigondas, just as this outstanding wine will come to dominate the ever-growing reputation of its wines. The investment made by the Perrins here demonstrates their faith in these cooler sites; in this instance the north-west orientation defines the micro climate and ensures a late harvest. Fifteen months later, the latent complexity has been captured and bottled and the results are superb: Grenache dominates with over 90 percent of the blend, and very successful it is too. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the midpalate focus, purity and impressive length. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 80 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Syrah (8%), Cinsault (7%) and Clairette (5%). The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Clairette. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

The 2009 Gigondas Tradition (a classic blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvdre, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault) is a powerful and muscular wine, with notes of tar, garrigue, ripe plums and autumnal bonfires. With towering tannins, this has savoury subplots and plenty of intrigue.

This 100% Grenache is from a small plot high above the village and fills one foudre only; ripe, rich and rewarding, this is a worthy addition to the canon of top single-varietal Southern Rhônes.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

Vines from the southern, more sandy (aka safre here) soils have yielded, albeit in parsimonious volumes, one of the greatest wines from this beautiful medieval village. The blend is shared evenly between Grenache and Syrah. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the mid-palate focus and the purity on the finish. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...

My favourite Gigondas producer, this is their top red. Ripe, glossy fruit envelops a firm frame but the winning element here is the attractive brambly spice hints.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager

A specific and presumably undisclosed parcel with distinctive blue marl soil is the source of the top Montirius wine. Dense and yet light on its feet; austere and yet fantastically ripe, this wine weaves a glorious web of paradox and complexity. Garrigue, ripe plum, spice and gentle salinity are all pleasingly entwined.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

With 22 years of biodynamic viticulture behind them Christine and Eric Saurel have long been in the vanguard of a philosophy which does not tolerate half measures. Their commitment and sometimes near-religious sense of vocation is well served by 80 hectares stretched across the pleasingly named Plateau de Garrigues, all in the shadow of the equally evocative Dentelles de Montmirail. The fact that daughter Justine has just spent a year making wine in New Zealand is indicative not only of an evangelical approach but also of a pleasing receptiveness to ideas and innovation, not that much of either are actually required here.

This is pre-phylloxera Grenache that’s farmed on safre (sand) and makes up 90% of the concentrated blend. A beguiling perfume of lavender, aniseed and macerated plum does not let up on the palate which is powerfully pure and adamantine in its construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The adoption of new nomenclature, complete with smart new crested labels, runs deeper than skilful marketing, reflecting as it does the fact that the Perrins are more than merely an up-market négociant. The partnerships cultivated are far more than that and actual ownership now extends to an impressive three hundred hectares, each one afforded the same oraganic treatment as at Beaucastel itself. The increased emphasis on the villages of Vinsobres and, in particular, Gigondas, has helped to elevate the reputations of both greatly.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

The Grand Projet is almost complete and very grand it is too. The restored 16^th century Clos is located in the centre of Gigondas, its fortifications commanding the valley and   its wine taking the appellation to new heights. Châteauneuf-du-Pape beware; Gigondas, with its altitude, its old vines and wonderfully complex geology, is now making some outstanding wines, none more so than this example. The blend is classic (80% Grenache, and the balance shared between Syrah, Cinsault, Counoise and Morvèdre) and the wine, aged for 15 months, is silky and long.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The over-achieving Perrins have made excellent progress in their aspiration to become the leading négociant in the Southern Rhône; indeed I would venture that they have already achieved this and the additional benefit of being actually located in situ only strengthens this position.  With subtle changes to nomenclature and livery, along with the clear focus on Gigondas and Vinsobres as the villages deemed primes inter pares, progress has been impressive indeed, as , of course, are the wines.

Les Pallières is one of the most beautiful properties in the Rhône Valley, nestled between the villages of Sablet and Gigondas in a natural, woody amphitheatre. The older vines nearer the property go into Les Racines, those higher up make up Les Terrasses du Diable. This year Les Racines is ostensibly more austere and reserved, but will ultimately prove more rewarding as its dark spicy personality starts to reveal itself. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch.  The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.

Clos des Tourelles is the only remaining Clos in Gigondas and has a history that goes back to the mid-1600s. Produced with 95% Grenache and a noticeable dollop of oak, the full bodied rich tannic palate is lifted by fresh menthol. It will need a few years to open up properly. This is the Perrin’s second vintage of this wine and I expect we will hear more about it in the future.
Fine Wine Team

The old winery has nearly been completely restored, its eponymous monastic towers giving the village a renewed identity, the large new foudres bestowing upon the wine the best possible up-bringing. 80% is Grenache and the balance is shared between the usual suspects. Blackberry, bay and laurel are evidenced; sui generis and yet wonderfully refined, this is the style which will allow Gigondas, before too long, to rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape as the top village in the region.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The adoption of new nomenclature, complete with smart new crested labels, runs deeper than skilful marketing, reflecting as it does the fact that the Perrins are more than merely an up-market négociant. The partnerships cultivated are far more than that and actual ownership now extends to an impressive three hundred hectares, each one afforded the same oraganic treatment as at Beaucastel itself. The increased emphasis on the villages of Vinsobres and, in particular, Gigondas, has helped to elevate the reputations of both greatly.