Gigondas

This beautiful 17th-century estate dominates the village of Gigondas, just as this outstanding wine will come to dominate the ever-growing reputation of its wines. The investment made by the Perrins here demonstrates their faith in these cooler sites; in this instance the north-west orientation defines the micro climate and ensures a late harvest. Fifteen months later, the latent complexity has been captured and bottled and the results are superb: Grenache dominates with over 90 percent of the blend, and very successful it is too. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the midpalate focus, purity and impressive length. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Deferential perhaps to what the Chapoutiers have achieved in the north with their single plots in Hermitage, the Perrins have segregated their top domaines into a ‘parcellaire’ category. Fully owned and farmed on the most rigorous organic principles, these exciting wines reflect the family’s faith in the villages of Vinsobres and Gigondas, the hillside locations of which chime with changing meteorological and climatic patterns.

Sourced from a specific plot nearer to the bottom of the hill in Gigondas, these 90-year-old vines are shared once again between 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. Production is small at 5,000 bottles, alas, because this is a very special wine, with notes of black tea and Indian spice behind a seductive ripeness which is undoubtedly powerful but also exceptionally pure; the result of the biodynamic viticulture and the lack of intervention in the winery.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel, biodynamic pioneers in the Southern Rhône, are relatively large land owners in two of the more modish of the ‘named’ villages, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, where their holdings cover 16 and 34 hectares respectively. The advantages of such a pioneering spirit become clearer and clearer as the vines reach maturity and the wines resonate an intangible quality described memorably by Christine as ‘luminosité’.

Vines from the southern, more sandy (aka safre here) soils have yielded, albeit in parsimonious volumes, one of the greatest wines from this beautiful medieval village. The blend is shared evenly between Grenache and Syrah. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the mid-palate focus and the purity on the finish. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...

As the name implies, this cuvée is from the higher vineyards, its freshness and lift inspiring beyond the power and concentration of the mid-palate. Hitherto understandably reserved, the wine has real purity and great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the Gigondas appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.

Yves’s top Grenache is only made in the best years, demonstrating his affection for 2011 which he praises for its purity and (relative) approachability. The latter quality is not immediately obvious such is the power and concentration that has been coaxed from these higher vines. The rewards of patience will be great indeed.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

Rhône 2010 Berrys' Best Buys - Southern Belles
Domaine Montirius is an impeccable biodynamic estate that produces wines of brilliant richness and depth with the characteristic notes of Provençal herb and personality. This is really great quality at a really great price.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)

More elegant than previously, this cuvée, which is made up of 80% old-vine Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, still boasts astonishing concentration and very powerful tannins, so fear not those who love robust Gigondas with their game dishes. I think the tannin management is better than ever this year and beyond all the power and glory there is a purity and focus which is extremely impressive!
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012)

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

A stunning old-vine cuve, potent and layered, still developing in new oak (it will benefit from over 20 months in total), this is a Grenache which suggests future indulgence. Deep, dark fruits combine with firm acidity to underpin a structure of Doric ambition.

Les Pallières is one of the most beautiful properties in the Rhône Valley, nestled between the villages of Sablet and Gigondas in a natural, woody amphitheatre. The older vines nearer the property go into Les Racines, those higher up make up Les Terrasses du Diable. This year Les Racines is ostensibly more austere and reserved, but will ultimately prove more rewarding as its dark spicy personality starts to reveal itself. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch.  The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40-yearold
Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache, the
Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight
of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by
what Christine describes as salinity – a reference
to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s
structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost
feminine, despite its power – a word seldom used in
this particular appellation. Drink 2021-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

As the names suggest, Les Racines is sourced from
lower vineyards than Les Terrasses (Daniel’s other
Gigondas) but from older vines, over 70 years of age in
the case of the Grenache which makes up 90 percent
of this cuvée, the balance made up of Mourvèdre. A
surprisingly feminine floral aromatic is followed by
a fine and elegant palate with notes of myrtle and
liquorice, mocha, and forest floor all evidenced. The
synergy between house style and vintage personality
is conspicuously successful in 2016. Drink 2020-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer