Gigondas

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 80 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Syrah (8%), Cinsault (7%) and Clairette (5%). The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Clairette. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Sourced from a specific plot nearer to the bottom of the hill in Gigondas, these 90-year-old vines are shared once again between 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. Production is small at 5,000 bottles, alas, because this is a very special wine, with notes of black tea and Indian spice behind a seductive ripeness which is undoubtedly powerful but also exceptionally pure; the result of the biodynamic viticulture and the lack of intervention in the winery.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel, biodynamic pioneers in the Southern Rhône, are relatively large land owners in two of the more modish of the ‘named’ villages, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, where their holdings cover 16 and 34 hectares respectively. The advantages of such a pioneering spirit become clearer and clearer as the vines reach maturity and the wines resonate an intangible quality described memorably by Christine as ‘luminosité’.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

The Terre des Aînés is from the Saurel’s oldest most gnarled vines (80 years old) and is made from 80 percent Grenache and 20 percent Mourvèdre. To the powerful spice and black fruit notes must be added the appeal of very pure and focused tannins and a wonderfully refreshing finish. 
Drink 2017-2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

From centurion vines on the edge of Sablet, this pre-phylloxera sandy plot has produced a powerful and richly concentrated wine, its sinewy chocolate texture indulged in a seamless construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Chteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Pre et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin

As the name implies, this cuvée is from the higher vineyards, its freshness and lift inspiring beyond the power and concentration of the mid-palate. Hitherto understandably reserved, the wine has real purity and great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

My favourite Gigondas producer, this is their top red. Ripe, glossy fruit envelops a firm frame but the winning element here is the attractive brambly spice hints.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager

A specific and presumably undisclosed parcel with distinctive blue marl soil is the source of the top Montirius wine. Dense and yet light on its feet; austere and yet fantastically ripe, this wine weaves a glorious web of paradox and complexity. Garrigue, ripe plum, spice and gentle salinity are all pleasingly entwined.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

With 22 years of biodynamic viticulture behind them Christine and Eric Saurel have long been in the vanguard of a philosophy which does not tolerate half measures. Their commitment and sometimes near-religious sense of vocation is well served by 80 hectares stretched across the pleasingly named Plateau de Garrigues, all in the shadow of the equally evocative Dentelles de Montmirail. The fact that daughter Justine has just spent a year making wine in New Zealand is indicative not only of an evangelical approach but also of a pleasing receptiveness to ideas and innovation, not that much of either are actually required here.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

A stunning old-vine cuve, potent and layered, still developing in new oak (it will benefit from over 20 months in total), this is a Grenache which suggests future indulgence. Deep, dark fruits combine with firm acidity to underpin a structure of Doric ambition.

With an astonishingly delicate nose, the Cuvée Confidential seems almost feminine, an adjective seldom encountered when describing this appellation. Sourced from 40-year-old Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache vines, the wine possesses a weight of dense black fruit with a flowery garland and hints of incense. This has a most impressive length and a very harmonious finish.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40-yearold
Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache, the
Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight
of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by
what Christine describes as salinity – a reference
to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s
structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost
feminine, despite its power – a word seldom used in
this particular appellation. Drink 2021-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Vines approaching full maturity (40-50 years) have
engendered appropriate complexity. The blend is
made from 80 percent Grenache and 10 percent each
of Syrah and Mourvèdre, the resulting wine evoking
black fruit, charcuterie and sousbois with notes of
liquorice, macerated prune and autumnal bonfires
all celebrated in a fit of suitably poetic appreciation.
Drink 2019-2022.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Vines from the southern, more sandy (aka safre here) soils have yielded, albeit in parsimonious volumes, one of the greatest wines from this beautiful medieval village. The blend is shared evenly between Grenache and Syrah. Blue and black fruits vie for attention; the attention, secured, is held by the mid-palate focus and the purity on the finish. Griotte and mocha on the finish complete a most satisfactory gustatory experience.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Few developments have been as telling or as significant as the progress made by the Perrins in the villages outside of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape fortress. Their aspiration has been clear and it has been honourable; through ownership, partnership and, where appropriate, acquisition, they wish to build a portfolio which shows the very best in the very best of the terroirs which these villages have to offer and thereby to promote both the Perrin philosophy, which is focused on quality and quality only, and in the process, to raise the profile of the region as a whole. The progress made to date has been most impressive! The artists formerly known as Perrin Père et Fils now prefer the title of La Famille Perrin...

The 2009 Gigondas Tradition (a classic blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvdre, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault) is a powerful and muscular wine, with notes of tar, garrigue, ripe plums and autumnal bonfires. With towering tannins, this has savoury subplots and plenty of intrigue.

This is pre-phylloxera Grenache that’s farmed on safre (sand) and makes up 90% of the concentrated blend. A beguiling perfume of lavender, aniseed and macerated plum does not let up on the palate which is powerfully pure and adamantine in its construction.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The adoption of new nomenclature, complete with smart new crested labels, runs deeper than skilful marketing, reflecting as it does the fact that the Perrins are more than merely an up-market négociant. The partnerships cultivated are far more than that and actual ownership now extends to an impressive three hundred hectares, each one afforded the same oraganic treatment as at Beaucastel itself. The increased emphasis on the villages of Vinsobres and, in particular, Gigondas, has helped to elevate the reputations of both greatly.