Gigondas

This is a wonderful example of what good-value Gigondas can offer. The intensity of aromatics with liquorice, kirsch, rosemary and thyme is inviting and persists on the finish. While the fruit concentration is powerful, there is a touch of sweetness and spice on the mid-palate, the tannins powdery and firm, providing balance and focus. Drink now to 2024.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer

Of Daniel’s two Pallières cuvées, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses, but from older vines – nearly 70 years of age in the case of the Grenache, which makes up 80 percent of this cuvée, with the balance made up from Syrah (8%), Cinsault (7%) and Clairette (5%). The surprisingly feminine floral aromas are followed by a fine and elegant palate, with notes of myrtle and liquorice, mocha and forest floor all in evidence. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Cinsault in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Clairette. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the Gigondas appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.

Domaine Montirius is one of the stars of the appellation, and deservedly so, judged by the care afforded to its wines by Christine and Eric Saurel. They represent the fifth generation to work this 57-hectare domaine. Low-yielding old vines on optimal soil provide the perfect raw materials, and a careful three-week maceration allows the full expression of the terroir. Their patient methodology is rewarded with superb expressions of terroir.
Similarly styled, the 2013 Gigondas Confidentiel has high quality aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis and leafy herbs, medium to full-bodied richness and a rounded, supple, sweetly fruited style that’s already hard to resist. I love the purity here, and it has fine tannin that frame the finish, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it should drink nicely through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015

For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.

Yves’s top Grenache is only made in the best years, demonstrating his affection for 2011 which he praises for its purity and (relative) approachability. The latter quality is not immediately obvious such is the power and concentration that has been coaxed from these higher vines. The rewards of patience will be great indeed.

Elegant and powerful at the same time, this is a benchmark Gigondas wine which may be burly and uncompromising at first, but then opens up to reveal finesse with a raw energy driving it forward.

Rhône 2010 Berrys' Best Buys - Southern Belles
Domaine Montirius is an impeccable biodynamic estate that produces wines of brilliant richness and depth with the characteristic notes of Provençal herb and personality. This is really great quality at a really great price.
(Stuart Rae, BBR Fine Wine)

More elegant than previously, this cuvée, which is made up of 80% old-vine Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, still boasts astonishing concentration and very powerful tannins, so fear not those who love robust Gigondas with their game dishes. I think the tannin management is better than ever this year and beyond all the power and glory there is a purity and focus which is extremely impressive!
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012)

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

As the names suggest, Les Racines is sourced from lower vineyards than Les Terrasses ( Daniel’s other Gigondas) , but from older vines, over 65 years of age in the case of the Grenache which makes up 90% of this cuvée, the balance made up of Mourvèdre. A surprisingly feminine floral aromatic is followed by a fine and elegant palate with notes of myrtle and licorice, mocha and forest floor all evidenced.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Daniel Brunier detects a ‘strong sinewy’ character in his 2010s, something of the 2005 in other words, but with greater depth. His wines are perhaps more Roundhead than the Cavalier vintages of 2009 and 2007 and will be very long-lasting as a result. The on-going evolution ( if you will pardon the tautology) of La Roquète continues to impress and les Pallières bears virtually no resemblance at all to the raw and sinewy Gigondas I first encountered, with no lack of trepidation, a decade ago.

With an astonishingly delicate nose, the Cuvée Confidential seems almost feminine, an adjective seldom encountered when describing this appellation. Sourced from 40-year-old Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache vines, the wine possesses a weight of dense black fruit with a flowery garland and hints of incense. This has a most impressive length and a very harmonious finish.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40-yearold
Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache, the
Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight
of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by
what Christine describes as salinity – a reference
to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s
structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost
feminine, despite its power – a word seldom used in
this particular appellation. Drink 2021-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

As the names suggest, Les Racines is sourced from
lower vineyards than Les Terrasses (Daniel’s other
Gigondas) but from older vines, over 70 years of age in
the case of the Grenache which makes up 90 percent
of this cuvée, the balance made up of Mourvèdre. A
surprisingly feminine floral aromatic is followed by
a fine and elegant palate with notes of myrtle and
liquorice, mocha, and forest floor all evidenced. The
synergy between house style and vintage personality
is conspicuously successful in 2016. Drink 2020-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

Les Pallières is one of the most beautiful properties in the Rhône Valley, nestled between the villages of Sablet and Gigondas in a natural, woody amphitheatre. The older vines nearer the property go into Les Racines, those higher up make up Les Terrasses du Diable. This year Les Racines is ostensibly more austere and reserved, but will ultimately prove more rewarding as its dark spicy personality starts to reveal itself. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch.  The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.

As the name implies, this cuvée is from the higher vineyards, its freshness and lift inspiring beyond the power and concentration of the mid-palate. Hitherto understandably reserved, the wine has real purity and great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.