Gigondas

As the name implies, this cuvée is from the higher vineyards, its freshness and lift inspiring beyond the power and concentration of the mid-palate. Hitherto understandably reserved, the wine has real purity and great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

The Duke of Gigondas,Yves Gras, is a charismatic and eloquent champion for these two great villages, easing them out of the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and into the light of a recognition which is far removed from an outdated reputation for rustic tannins and indulgent alcohol levels. The recognition garnered by the estate is evidenced by a most impressive new tasting room, complete with furniture which would not be out-of-place in a Parisian salon. Fame has its cost however; at the end of our visit a huge lorry, collecting wine to go to Holland, crushed a hundred year-old olive tree, much to the chagrin of M Gras and the eldery M Gras père, who rushed out to castigate the driver with some very colourful patois.

For those who like to equate the style of a wine with the personality of the winemaker, the imposing and often outspoken Yves Gras would seem to be the ideal porte parole for the reputedly tannic and unforgiving wines of Gigondas. Needless to say such simplifications are facile; Yves turns out to be a thoughtful winemaker and the wines have a cerebral elegance… on second thoughts maybe the equation may not be too facile after all.

Yves’s top Grenache is only made in the best years, demonstrating his affection for 2011 which he praises for its purity and (relative) approachability. The latter quality is not immediately obvious such is the power and concentration that has been coaxed from these higher vines. The rewards of patience will be great indeed.

The blend this year is approximately 73% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 7% Syrah, the last of these three making an unusual appearance in recognition of Yves’ admiration of this variety in 2012, a year when Mourvèdre had to work hard. Be that as it may, it has all its customary savoury spicy richness, with ripe black fruit at its core and a fine, gently minty freshness on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The ebullient Yves Gras can always be relied upon for a sound-bite or two; 2012 is for him an excellent vintage because for him a long season, so far south, engenders inevitable complexity and balance. The wines are getting even better during élevage, he adds, risking a non-sequitur… but I am disinclined to argue with such a robust character and the wines share his forthright salty charm.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40 year-old Mourvèdre and 80 year-old Grenache, the Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as ‘salinity’, a reference to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost feminine, despite its power, a word seldom used in this particular appellation!
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Christine and Eric Saurel own 60 hectares mostly on the Plateau des Garrigues which overlooks the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrains, all of which they have farmed on biodynamic principles for an incredible 16 years. Blue and monmorate ‘petrus’ clay soils contribute to the astonishing flavours coaxed from these old vines. Christine describes her goals in terms of ‘luminosité’, an intangible and almost ethereal term yet one which seems strangely appropriate and which can only be properly explained by tasting the wines themselves, which are a far cry from traditional styles from these villages.

A stunning old-vine cuve, potent and layered, still developing in new oak (it will benefit from over 20 months in total), this is a Grenache which suggests future indulgence. Deep, dark fruits combine with firm acidity to underpin a structure of Doric ambition.

Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026. 
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer

Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40-year-old Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache, the Confidentiel 2015 is an outstanding effort. The weight of dense black fruit is beautifully complemented by what Christine describes as “salinity” – a reference to the pure minerality that underpins the wine’s structure. It is wonderfully balanced and, despite its power, almost feminine – a word seldom used in this particular appellation. Drink 2020-2029. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Christine and Eric Saurel own 70 hectares around the villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, all farmed in accordance with rigorous biodynamic principles. An initial modest scepticism at their almost obsessive fascination with the lunar patterns and so forth has been countered, over the years, by the sheer quality of the wines. Christine describes her goals in terms of “luminosité”, an intangible and almost ethereal term, yet one which seems strangely appropriate and is explained most eloquently by the wines themselves. 

From a small but unique plot, shared by 40-yearold
Mourvèdre and 80-year-old Grenache, the
Confidential 2010 is an outstanding effort, its weight
of dense black fruit beautifully complemented by
what Christine describes as salinity – a reference
to the pure minerality which underpins the wine’s
structure. Wonderfully balanced and almost
feminine, despite its power – a word seldom used in
this particular appellation. Drink 2021-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

As the names suggest, Les Racines is sourced from
lower vineyards than Les Terrasses (Daniel’s other
Gigondas) but from older vines, over 70 years of age in
the case of the Grenache which makes up 90 percent
of this cuvée, the balance made up of Mourvèdre. A
surprisingly feminine floral aromatic is followed by
a fine and elegant palate with notes of myrtle and
liquorice, mocha, and forest floor all evidenced. The
synergy between house style and vintage personality
is conspicuously successful in 2016. Drink 2020-2024.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

Les Pallières is one of the most beautiful properties in the Rhône Valley, nestled between the villages of Sablet and Gigondas in a natural, woody amphitheatre. The older vines nearer the property go into Les Racines, those higher up make up Les Terrasses du Diable. This year Les Racines is ostensibly more austere and reserved, but will ultimately prove more rewarding as its dark spicy personality starts to reveal itself. 
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch.  The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.