Rhône
Wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley for over 500 years, with some of its steeply-terraced vineyards amongst the oldest in France. Syrah rules over the south with a mix of Mediterranean grapes, while in the north the two stars are Hermitage – grown on a granite hillside above the town of Tain and best put to the back of the cellar for a decade – and Côte-Rôtie, a star appellation made famous by Guigal's single-vineyard wines.
Wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley for over 500 years, with some of its vineyards being amongst the oldest in France. Syrah rules over the south with a mix of Mediterranean grapes, while in the north, the two stars are Hermitage – grown on an imposing granite hillside above the town of Tain and best put away in the back of the cellar for a decade – and Côte-Rôtie, a star appellation made famous by Guigal's single-vineyard wines, yet also home to dozens of fine producers as yet less well known. The sheer hillsides overlooking the river have to be terraced to make production possible.
St Joseph and Cornas also provide wines of weight and worth, but the best source for good value is Crozes-Hermitage, a satellite appellation which has come alive in the last few years with the arrival of young blood.
The river valley widens out south of Valence into Côtes du Rhône country on the windy alluvial plains and the lower slopes of the hills. It is a most imposing sight during the cold, clear, blue skies of Mistral conditions. The best of the wine villages of the Côtes du Rhône have been promoted to their own appellations - Vinsobres, Vacqueyras - close in quality to the better known Gigondas.
The king of the southern Rhône is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Here the galets roulés, rounded rocks from the ancient river bed, provide the context for gloriously rich red wines that are redolent of the heat and herbs of the south, and enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several grape varieties. Thirteen are permitted in all, but Grenache usually dominates, along with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. A fine vintage needs eight to 10 years cellaring for best results.
If your taste runs to fuller, richer, relatively exotic white wines, then perhaps a white Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhône Valley would suit better, or else a marvellously perfumed, heady Condrieu - headquarters of the Viognier grape.
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Jean-Louis & Rémi Pouizin,
Ready, but will keep,
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.
From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.
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Chateau d'Aqueria,
Drink now,
The first thing that you notice with this wine is its attractive rosehip colour followed by its enticing nose of ripe red berry fruit. Overripe strawberry and cream combine with the slightest hint of caramel to give an attractive bouquet. The palate is equally rewarding with plenty more rich ripe red fruit, a full body and a touch of spice on the finish. Serve well chilled with grilled red meats or chicken.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Château d'Aquéria is one of the best producers in the Tavel appellation in the southern Rhône Valley, an appellation devoted, unusually, entirely to rosé production. At 14% alcohol this wine is powerful but winemakers Vincent and Bruno de Bez have taken full advantage of the approachable character of the vintage to achieve subtlety and harmony. The wine is a blend of ripe Grenache fruit, with plenty of saignée extract with some Syrah and then a little Mourvèdre in reserve providing structural support.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Château d'Aquéria is one of the best producers in the Tavel appellation in the southern Rhône Valley, an appellation devoted, unusually, entirely to rosé production. At 14% alcohol this wine is powerful but winemakers Vincent and Bruno de Bez have taken full advantage of the approachable character of the vintage to achieve subtlety and harmony. The wine is a blend of ripe Grenache fruit, with plenty of saignée extract with some Syrah and then a little Mourvèdre in reserve providing structural support.
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Jean-Louis & Rémi Pouizin,
Ready, but will keep,
There is more red clay underneath these vines and 85 percent of them are Grenache. The balancing Mourvèdre is grown in a vineyard which is surrounded by the eponymous scrub. The felicitous blend of soils and natural environment brings out the fresher, more linear, side to the Grenache, and is complemented by the sooty, spicy complexity of Mourvèdre. Concentration and firm tannins do not seem to contradict an engaging almost ethereal character that is very typical of this grower. Drink 2018 - 2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
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Domaine des Escaravailles,
Ready, but will keep,
Syrah adds polish and floral lift to this outstanding blend of Grenache and Carignan. The blue and red clay terroir of the vineyards is ideally suited to the generous vintage that was 2015. Here we enjoy ripe yet savoury notes, with a backdrop of liquorice and a touch of star anise, garlanded with Mediterranean flowers. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Drink now,
Domaine Chaume Arnaud is one of the leading properties in the modish Southern Rhône village of Vinsobres, the very name of which, beyond its gentle oxymoronic components, betrays the region’s long-standing oenophilia. Philippe and Valérie achieved full biodynamic accreditation in 2009 and their wines sing a distinctly Mediterranean song, but with a descant of real purity.
Five percent of Roussanne is added to the traditional blend of Marsanne and Viognier, adding even more aromatic complexity to an already impressively perfumed wine. Honeydew melon, fig and quince are all evidenced, with notes of verbena and gingerbread and a hint of spice for good measure. This wine is a fantastic ambassador for all that is good in a hitherto undervalued white wine category.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Chaume Arnauds are high achievers it seems; the eldest son of Philippe and Valérie , Rafael is now a full time first team pro at Clermont Ferrand, one of the better French rugby union teams, by all accounts. Meanwhile the other son, also built like a second row forward, is helping to take the property to new heights of excellence. Full biodynamic accreditation from the 2009 vintage underlines intent and in 2012 we have a perfect showcase for the fashionable appellations of Vinsobres.
Five percent of Roussanne is added to the traditional blend of Marsanne and Viognier, adding even more aromatic complexity to an already impressively perfumed wine. Honeydew melon, fig and quince are all evidenced, with notes of verbena and gingerbread and a hint of spice for good measure. This wine is a fantastic ambassador for all that is good in a hitherto undervalued white wine category.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Chaume Arnauds are high achievers it seems; the eldest son of Philippe and Valérie , Rafael is now a full time first team pro at Clermont Ferrand, one of the better French rugby union teams, by all accounts. Meanwhile the other son, also built like a second row forward, is helping to take the property to new heights of excellence. Full biodynamic accreditation from the 2009 vintage underlines intent and in 2012 we have a perfect showcase for the fashionable appellations of Vinsobres.
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Ready, but will improve,
Philippe is very proud of the Demeter accreditation his estate has achieved, which has long been the leading light in this recently elevated Cru. He always has a pleasingly pithy turn of phrase to describe a vintage. Praising both the concentration and tannic harmony of 2015, he adds that it is “more olive than spice” in profile. And so it appears… the ripeness has as its corollary very sweet pips and firm skins, all contributing to an assemblage which is already rounded and soft. Its silky texture quietly supported by a classically ornate balustrade.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
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La Bastide St. Vincent,
Ready, but will keep,
Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
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Domaine de la Monardiere,
Ready, but will keep,
Damien Vache blends Grenache (70 percent) and Syrah (30 percent) in this excellent cuvée, which is fermented in concrete and matured in old wood. A Vacqueyras archetype, Les Deux Monards marries dark fruit and spice, with distinctive notes of liquorice allied to a disarming sweetness on the finish. Drink 2016 to 2019.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Damien Vache compares 2013 to 2008 and to 2001: it is better than 2008 but, he admits, not quite as good as 2001. This seems about right, especially as 2001 is one of my favourite years over the last two decades, and therefore a hard act to follow. Irregular flowering and a late harvest were the key features here, as elsewhere. Minimal intervention and diligent aging have ensured the quality of the wine, which will give great pleasure in the short to medium term.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Damien Vache compares 2013 to 2008 and to 2001: it is better than 2008 but, he admits, not quite as good as 2001. This seems about right, especially as 2001 is one of my favourite years over the last two decades, and therefore a hard act to follow. Irregular flowering and a late harvest were the key features here, as elsewhere. Minimal intervention and diligent aging have ensured the quality of the wine, which will give great pleasure in the short to medium term.
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Drink now,
A famous blend with the limelight shared predominately between Marsanne and Viognier, with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all vocal as minority shareholders. The wine is appropriately complex, with agrumes, figs, nougat and hints of exotic fruit on the nose, followed by a palate dominated by star anise, spice, almonds and pineapple. Drink now to 2024.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
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La Famille Perrin,
Ready, but will keep,
The Perrins now own 60 hectares, mostly on the slopes, in this fashionable appellation, promoted from 2005 to standalone status and naturally favouring Syrah given its relatively northerly location. The blend here is shared equally here between Syrah and Grenache and the wine impresses with its bright lively fruit and harmonious yet quietly grippy finish. An exceptionally commendable effort for this somewhat underrated vintage.
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La Bastide St. Vincent,
Ready, but will improve,
Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
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Domaine le Sang des Cailloux,
Drink now,
This year it is Floureto’s turn to inspire the eponymous cuvée (the name rotates between Serge’s three daughters) and a very good year it is too. As usual, the blend is 70 percent Grenache and 20 percent Syrah, with small touches of Mourvèdre and Cinsault to complete the picture. Poised and elegant, the wine is a notch lower than sometimes on the alcohol barometer-no bad thing in these parts. In this instance the lower alcohol allows the exuberant black-fruit profile a full and glorious expression.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
One of the best properties in the appellation of Vacqueyras, and certainly the bestnamed, Le Sang des Cailloux is located on the limestone escarpment which divides the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrians. The idiosyncrasy betrayed by Serge Férigoule handle-bar moustache reveals an approach to winemaking which is as individual as it is successful. His unrivalled experience allows him to compare 2013 with 1983, when there was also coulure in the Grenache, but when there were also some very nice wines made.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
One of the best properties in the appellation of Vacqueyras, and certainly the bestnamed, Le Sang des Cailloux is located on the limestone escarpment which divides the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrians. The idiosyncrasy betrayed by Serge Férigoule handle-bar moustache reveals an approach to winemaking which is as individual as it is successful. His unrivalled experience allows him to compare 2013 with 1983, when there was also coulure in the Grenache, but when there were also some very nice wines made.
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Chateau de Beaucastel,
Ready, but will improve,
Everyone’s favourite Côtes-du-Rhône, and usually the first to sell out from this hugely popular Domaine, the Coudoulet style is perfectly suited to this most stylish vintage. Ripe forward fruit, then velvety tannins and the gentle persuasion of soft spice on the finish to remind us of both provenance and unrivalled quality.
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer
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Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin,
Ready, but will keep,
Clay-limestone soils and 50-year-old vines are the progenitors of this exemplary blend, which is made up of 60 percent Grenache, and 40 percent Mourvèdre, with, unusually, no Syrah in 2014. Pumping over for 12 days, followed by nine month’s ageing, have yielded a gloriously fruity wine, with hints of soft spice and leather in the background and spicy subtle tannins even further in the background.
Drink 2018-2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will keep,
Domaine Combier is based on the plateau of La Roche de Glun, its vines located at the foot of the hill of Hermitage. The Combiers came to Pont de l’Isère in 1962 and concentrated on growing fruit and apricots. It became clear that some of their land was adjacent to that of a young vigneron by the name of Alain Graillot. The transition to vines has been wholly successful and Laurent’s wines are now considered every bit as good as those of his great friend next door.
The older vines fared a little better in the somewhat complicated conditions of 2014, and those with a relatively more northerly location, benefiting from a little more granite in the soil maybe, have provided the bedrock of this cuvée in 2014. The wine is aromatic, floral and generous, with a silky come-hither appeal and a gentle, dignified finish. Drink now to 2018.
The older vines fared a little better in the somewhat complicated conditions of 2014, and those with a relatively more northerly location, benefiting from a little more granite in the soil maybe, have provided the bedrock of this cuvée in 2014. The wine is aromatic, floral and generous, with a silky come-hither appeal and a gentle, dignified finish. Drink now to 2018.
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Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin,
Ready, but will keep,
Jean-Michels’ vineyards are just to the north of Tournon, and are suitably precarious and difficult to farm. Industry is more than rewarded by this most appealing example, fairly forward, as is the style of the vintage, but with no shortage of peppery red and black fruit at its heart. A cool , engaging finish completes the edifice, finely constructed and beautifully decorated.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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Domaine Emmanuel Darnaud,
Ready, but will keep,
For Emmanuel, 2015 was a relatively dry year – unusual in the sense that his vineyards are in Roche le Glun and therefore fairly near to the river. The sécheresse is not evidenced in the finished article, however. The low yields and coaxing alchemy of a gentle but persuasive extraction have ensured harmony; plenty of plummy, damson weight; fine, upstanding, youthful tannins; and signature aromatics of tapenade and Indian spice. This one will harmonise very agreeably over the short to medium term. Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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Domaine Florentin,
Drink now,
A fabulous vineyard with extraordinary terroir, complete with its own decorative pagoda, Florentin is currently being rejuvenated by no lesser a personality than Jean-Louis Chave. This fully mature example demonstrates the ageing capacity of the Marsanne varietal; lemon zest, orchard fruit and hints of beeswax make this a good match for rillettes, say, or a pungent cheese such as St Nectaire.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Drink now,
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as “atypical”, citing parsimonious yields of eight hl/ha for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved.
His parting shot is to describe the wines as “rare – but great”.
A nose of stone fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets is followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years.
A nose of stone-fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years-should you prove stoical in your patience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as ‘atypical’, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’. A fabulous white, Mordorée’s 2013 Lirac La Reine des Bois Blanc checks in as a blend of just about every permitted white variety, including Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Picpoul and others. Aged all in stainless steel, it exhibits beautifully clean, mineral-laced notes of citrus rind, pear, honeysuckle and white flowers. This flows to a medium-bodied, refreshing, pure and elegant white that has integrated acidity, plenty of fruit and a classy finish. Drink it over the coming 2-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
His parting shot is to describe the wines as “rare – but great”.
A nose of stone fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets is followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years.
A nose of stone-fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years-should you prove stoical in your patience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as ‘atypical’, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’. A fabulous white, Mordorée’s 2013 Lirac La Reine des Bois Blanc checks in as a blend of just about every permitted white variety, including Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Picpoul and others. Aged all in stainless steel, it exhibits beautifully clean, mineral-laced notes of citrus rind, pear, honeysuckle and white flowers. This flows to a medium-bodied, refreshing, pure and elegant white that has integrated acidity, plenty of fruit and a classy finish. Drink it over the coming 2-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will keep,
As always, an archetype of top quality Crozes- Hermitage, careless of the tricky vintage conditions it seems. Tapenade and crushed raspberry dominate the palate, which is fresh and generous at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
From vines on the northerly edge of the appellation, this has been aged for over a year in barriques, 20 percent of which are new. There is crushed blueberry on the nose with hints of tapenade, then raspberry and ripe plum – a wine with an elegant Burgundian style.
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Maison Nicolas Perrin,
Ready, but will keep,
Nicolas sources Syrah grapes from Tournon and Mauves in the South of the appellation and Chavanay and St Pierre-de-Boeuf a little further to the north. The assemblage is aged for 10 months in one and two year-old barrels. The 2012 has attractive red and black berried fruit at its core and a fine, nicely etched, gently peppery finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
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Domaine Maxime Graillot,
Drink now,
These St Jean de Muzols vineyards were spared the hail that struck to the east of the river, but the yields were still lower than usual. Thomas describes the wine, somewhat disingenuously, as ‘sophisticatedly rustic’ – a description that can only be fully understood, I wager, on tasting this excellent example.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel make a very likeable team and, needless to say, very likeable wines. Their philosophy differs a little from that of Maxime’s father Alain, specifically in terms of destemming and racking, but they are pleasingly pragmatic on both fronts. The 2013 vintage, with its hail in Crozes-Hermitage on 9th July, was a year of small crops, more racking than usual and supple, concentrated wines, which were eventually picked by the 13th October.
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Domaine Marc Sorrel,
Drink now,
The granitic soils of Larnage are located in the north of Crozes and the wines here are less forward than those on the plains further south. This example seems to borrow the best of both styles, its attack being silky, with red fruit to the fore. The back of the palate however has gravitas and a soft spicy persistence.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Starting off the reds, the 2013 Crozes Hermitage has lots of peppery spice, mineral and black cherry nuances in its medium to light-bodied, quaffable personality.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It is more than likely that 2013 is not the first vintage described by Marc Sorrel as ‘classique’ and, one very much hopes, not to be last. He cites the fresh spring, the fine summer and the late picking as key factors in the cycle and describes the wines as soft and linear in character. A gentle vintage made by a gentleman. Starting off the reds, the 2013 Crozes Hermitage has lots of peppery spice, mineral and black cherry nuances in its medium to light-bodied, quaffable personality.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Domaine Coursodon,
Ready, but will keep,
The red Silice is brought up half in demi-muid, half in barrique, and in 2014 is typically generous and approachable, with raspberry fruit to the fore, a floral elegance and no lack of the linearity of structure for which this appellation is so justly famed.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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Domaine de Fontbonau,
Drink now,
For Domaine de Fontbonau , the tasting of the 2008 is promising. Although a relatively light vintage, certainly in comparison with such tannic and forthright years as 2005 and 2007, this is tasting very well, its oak integrated nicely and its fruit profile dominated by red berries and notes from the hedgerow.
Black pepper and a whiff of the garrigue complete the picture. Finesse and elegance abound; this is a most satisfying debut from a property which is set to join the first ranks of great Rhône producers
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Black pepper and a whiff of the garrigue complete the picture. Finesse and elegance abound; this is a most satisfying debut from a property which is set to join the first ranks of great Rhône producers
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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Domaine Coursodon,
Drink now,
Maturation is shared between demi-muids and pièces, none of which are new. The signature redfruit ebullience is present and correct, with soft, spicy tannins adding to the appeal. Primary fruit dominates, pure and not simple.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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Eric Texier,
Drink now,
Still in the Ardèche, this is from old 70-year-old Serine, a venerable Syrah clone, grown on gneiss, with no sulphur dioxide added at all. The 2013 has impressive mineral-tinged black cherry fruit backed up by peppery notes. The palate is meaty and lively with raspberry and cherry fruit. Overall the impression is one of structure, Corinthian rather than Doric, and purity of intent.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
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Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.