Rhône
Wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley for over 500 years, with some of its steeply-terraced vineyards amongst the oldest in France. Syrah rules over the south with a mix of Mediterranean grapes, while in the north the two stars are Hermitage – grown on a granite hillside above the town of Tain and best put to the back of the cellar for a decade – and Côte-Rôtie, a star appellation made famous by Guigal's single-vineyard wines.
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Remi Pouizin,
Ready, but will keep,
A blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, this wine is back in 2017 – not having been made in 2016 due to poor flowering. It offers a complex blend of wild strawberries, red cherries and sweet-spice undertones. There is a density and concentration to the nose, neatly balanced by a silky texture and chalky, firm tannins. Drink now to 2026.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Ready, but will keep,
Laurent has increased his vineyard holdings in Vacqueyras by 1.5 hectares. The eight-hectare total, spread over several parcels, makes up this blend of Grenache (65%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Syrah (15%). Dark plum and red cherry notes take on a supporting role in relation to a dominant herbal character, with hints of lavender. The rich and concentrated core is balanced by juicy acidity and firm, powdery tannins. Drink now to 2023.
Ready, but will keep,
This unique cuvee is made entirely from Clairette, spending 10 months in old oak barrels – not to impart oak flavours, but rather to allow micro-oxygenation which stabilises the wine and allows it to develop additional complexity. The resulting wine has a very mineral nose, with herbs and a hint of camomile. The palate starts gently with more mineral notes, but builds to very pure stone and citrus fruit notes, all in balance with the crisp acidity. Drink now to 2022.
Oliver Barton, Buyer Assistant
Oliver Barton, Buyer Assistant
Ready, but will improve,
This is a wonderful example of what good-value Gigondas can offer. The intensity of aromatics with liquorice, kirsch, rosemary and thyme is inviting and persists on the finish. While the fruit concentration is powerful, there is a touch of sweetness and spice on the mid-palate, the tannins powdery and firm, providing balance and focus. Drink now to 2024.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Eric Texier,
Ready, but will keep,
Eric likens the terroir in this high Brézème vineyard to that of Hermitage, although the soils here are more alluvial than strictly granitic. Serine, as Syrah used to be known, is cultivated from authentic and very ancient stock, planted in accordance with the traditional marcottage process (massal selection). The wine is suitably complex and individual, with evocative herbal notes pointing towards the south of the valley, but a fundamental loyalty to the north preserved through aromatic purity and a cool, lifted fruit profile. Drink 2019-2025.
Simon Field, Wine Buyer
Simon Field, Wine Buyer
Ready, but will keep,
This is very much in keeping with Emmanuel’s dynamic style of winemaking. As the name indicates, the fruit from three different plots are aged differently, in barriques and demi-muids. The result produces a dark and smoky nose. On the palate, bramble fruit is intertwined with very silky, polished tannins and a rich but well-balanced finish. Drink now to 2024.
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Maison Chapoutier,
For laying down,
This cuvee is mainly matured in concrete vats, with only 30% of the wine seeing oak. This brings a real focus on the purity of fruit. The nose is dark and dense with lots of blackberry fruit. A good mineral streak runs through the palate which is well-structured with firm tannins. Drink 2020-2025.
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Ready, but will keep,
The Silice displays a very pretty Syrah profile with bright red-berry fruits and red liquorice spice. Floral and linear in profile, the absence of any new oak makes the primary fruit the focus. The tannins are carefully managed with a juiciness and subtlety to them that mirrors the texture of the palate. Drink now to 2023.
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Fiona Hayes, Rhône Buyer
Maison Chapoutier,
For laying down,
This is a blend of three parcels from the mid-slopes of Cornas. The team has sourced the best fruit from this vintage and the plots complement each other well, giving a wine full of dark broody fruit, wood smoke and spice. The tannins here are very fine and inky black but may need some time. Drink 2020-2029.
Ready, but will improve,
This is a “sélection parcellaire” coming from vines that are over 60 years old, in the northern part of St Joseph. Thanks to time in 25% new French oak, this wine displays an attractive sweet spice and cedar aroma. Rich and generous in body, its subtle smoky and meaty notes support the luxurious red and black fruit. Concentrated and complex. Drink 2020-2028.
Domaine Dumien-Serrette,
Ready, but will improve,
Nicolas destemmed half the crop in 2016 and selected carefully, attentive to the possible impact of prolonged spring rainfall. Yields were reduced therefore, but there was no hail and no frost. Dense and dark, the wine has a hint of the sauvage behind the fruit, an edge which will guarantee the potential for lengthy cellaring and a fascinating evolution, at the culmination of which it should be relished with a game bird. Drink 2020-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine de la Janasse,
Ready, but will improve,
A chamber piece, appropriately enough, a whimsical sonata in praise of the Grenache grape, from the southerly and relatively cold vines of Chaupin. Spring flowers and bright acidity add feminine charm to the ripe fruit and ensure that the wine is immediately etched on the memory.
Drink 2019-2014.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2019-2014.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
For laying down,
Thirteen plots, with a concentration on the famous
Crau plateau, have gifted this blend which is made up
of 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven
percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. Gentle
extraction after a modest cold soak has been followed
by eighteen months ageing, shared between vat and
350 litre casks, none of which are new. Benchmark
Châteauneuf aromas of black olive and the scrub cede
to a dark and savoury palate, hugely textured and
with layers of potential. The 2016 calling cards of pure
acidity and elegant tannins are both present and the
finish is imperious. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Crau plateau, have gifted this blend which is made up
of 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven
percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. Gentle
extraction after a modest cold soak has been followed
by eighteen months ageing, shared between vat and
350 litre casks, none of which are new. Benchmark
Châteauneuf aromas of black olive and the scrub cede
to a dark and savoury palate, hugely textured and
with layers of potential. The 2016 calling cards of pure
acidity and elegant tannins are both present and the
finish is imperious. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Chateau la Nerthe,
For laying down,
The final blend this year will be the usual cornucopia of Grenache, Syrah , Mourvèdre and Cinsault, the Syrah now nearly achieving parity with the Grenache (and in terms of taste profile it’s certainly just as influential). Maturation has been 60 percent in barrel, 40 percent in foudre and the wine rejoices in classic ripeness and purity, aromatic and subtle intensity. An archetype from the modern end of the spectrum, its modernity is tempered by a robust respect for provenance and the dexterity of an extremely gifted winemaker. Drink 2019-2025.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Chateau la Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
La Nerthe has always majored on the fruity side of the Châteauneuf profile. Sometimes, given the venerable vines in situ and the almost perfect cellars, I have hoped for a little more “authenticity” here. Ralph may have previously been making wine for Jaboulet in the North, but this is his most clearly articulated aspiration. One should rejoice in Grenache and garland it in the inevitable complexity offered by the famous palette of varietals, without losing sight of the essential features that elevated the appellation in the first place. The savoury, pleasantly herbal personality of the 2015, sitting perfectly within a dark fruit core, provides a most encouraging expression of this mission statement. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.
For laying down,
Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south... in other words, this has a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. The wine displays classic aromas of thyme, sous-bois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate, which is long and unnervingly complex. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.
Paul Avril et Fils,
Ready, but will improve,
A dazzling marriage of six varieties (Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Picpoul, Picardin and Bourboulenc), this is relatively reticent in youth, lacking the come-hither charm of the modish Roussanne wines, but making up for it in complexity and ageing potential. Its currently dominant floral and critic notes are set to cede to poached pear, then maybe kerosene (à la Riesling) and finally a rich, nutty, hedonistic treat which will be a perfect match for scallops or lobster. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Just what is it that has made Clos des Papes the most sought-after address in this village? Vincent Avril has much to say, but the key parts of his exposition to me are exceptionally low yields, widely fragmented plots and a refusal to venerate Mammon by introducing of a series of deluxe cuvées. The wine is therefore the definitive statement of a village that is celebrated for blended complexity, deliciously ironic in a man who appears to have a distinctly Burgundian temperament (in a good sense, needless to say!). This aside, Vincent does not actually vinify by plot, but segregates three or four key blends in the March following harvest, blends which are marked by greater or lesser influence of the minority shareholding grapes and which therefore signal both the character of the vintage and the relative importance of Grenache in the ensemble.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Just what is it that has made Clos des Papes the most sought-after address in this village? Vincent Avril has much to say, but the key parts of his exposition to me are exceptionally low yields, widely fragmented plots and a refusal to venerate Mammon by introducing of a series of deluxe cuvées. The wine is therefore the definitive statement of a village that is celebrated for blended complexity, deliciously ironic in a man who appears to have a distinctly Burgundian temperament (in a good sense, needless to say!). This aside, Vincent does not actually vinify by plot, but segregates three or four key blends in the March following harvest, blends which are marked by greater or lesser influence of the minority shareholding grapes and which therefore signal both the character of the vintage and the relative importance of Grenache in the ensemble.
The nose of this wine is very pure, with cool dark berry fruit aromas with plenty of garrigue. The palate reveals more concentrated blackberry flavours complemented by fresh rosemary and thyme. The abundant tannins are well-managed, fine and ripe, framed by Cabotte’s signature elegant acidity which makes its wines both refined and digeste. This is one for the dinner table. Drink now to 2023.
Oliver Barton, Buyer Assistant