Rhône
Wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley for over 500 years, with some of its steeply-terraced vineyards amongst the oldest in France. Syrah rules over the south with a mix of Mediterranean grapes, while in the north the two stars are Hermitage – grown on a granite hillside above the town of Tain and best put to the back of the cellar for a decade – and Côte-Rôtie, a star appellation made famous by Guigal's single-vineyard wines.
Wine has been produced in the Rhône Valley for over 500 years, with some of its vineyards being amongst the oldest in France. Syrah rules over the south with a mix of Mediterranean grapes, while in the north, the two stars are Hermitage – grown on an imposing granite hillside above the town of Tain and best put away in the back of the cellar for a decade – and Côte-Rôtie, a star appellation made famous by Guigal's single-vineyard wines, yet also home to dozens of fine producers as yet less well known. The sheer hillsides overlooking the river have to be terraced to make production possible.
St Joseph and Cornas also provide wines of weight and worth, but the best source for good value is Crozes-Hermitage, a satellite appellation which has come alive in the last few years with the arrival of young blood.
The river valley widens out south of Valence into Côtes du Rhône country on the windy alluvial plains and the lower slopes of the hills. It is a most imposing sight during the cold, clear, blue skies of Mistral conditions. The best of the wine villages of the Côtes du Rhône have been promoted to their own appellations - Vinsobres, Vacqueyras - close in quality to the better known Gigondas.
The king of the southern Rhône is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Here the galets roulés, rounded rocks from the ancient river bed, provide the context for gloriously rich red wines that are redolent of the heat and herbs of the south, and enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several grape varieties. Thirteen are permitted in all, but Grenache usually dominates, along with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. A fine vintage needs eight to 10 years cellaring for best results.
If your taste runs to fuller, richer, relatively exotic white wines, then perhaps a white Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhône Valley would suit better, or else a marvellously perfumed, heady Condrieu - headquarters of the Viognier grape.
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Prieure de Montezargues,
Drink now,
The Medieval Priory at Montezargues is run by Guillaume Dugas, son of the former régisseur at Château la Nerthe, another imposing property which is making superlative Mediterranean wines. Tavel gained its reputation for Rosé in the time of King Philipe le Bel, whoever he may have been, during the Avignon Papal schism. A handful of local varieties add complexity to the ten percent of the blend that is not shared between Cinsault and the two Grenaches, Blanc and Noir. The wine has a distinctive rose-hip herbal aromatic then a palate which marries flavours of peach, cherry and sloe. It is subtly powerful and would make a great match for goat’s cheese salad or grilled fish
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Jean-Louis & Rémi Pouizin,
Ready, but will keep,
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.
From the excellent 2015 vintage, Native is a blend of concrete-aged Grenache and wood-aged Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Grenache’s silky tannins enrobe a pleasing dark-fruit core, with myrtle and red cherry both in evidence on the palate. Drink now to 2023.
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Jean-Louis & Rémi Pouizin,
Ready, but will keep,
There is more red clay underneath these vines and 85 percent of them are Grenache. The balancing Mourvèdre is grown in a vineyard which is surrounded by the eponymous scrub. The felicitous blend of soils and natural environment brings out the fresher, more linear, side to the Grenache, and is complemented by the sooty, spicy complexity of Mourvèdre. Concentration and firm tannins do not seem to contradict an engaging almost ethereal character that is very typical of this grower. Drink 2018 - 2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Rémi Pouizin formerly made wine at his father’s property, Domaine la Fourmente, just outside Visan. Now he has branched out on his own with Domaine Dieu-le-Fit and bought a magnificent 19th century château in the heart of the village. He has also secured biodynamic accreditation for his vineyards, though these essentially remain the same. Only the legal structure and the location of the winery have changed substantially. The essence of the excellent Domaine la Fourmente still remains, albeit a little improved, plus a new, divinely inspired name.
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£14.95
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£161.40
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Chave,
Ready, but will improve,
The idea of a Côtes du Rhône from Monsieur Chave was always fascinating; I was intrigued to know where he would source his fruit for such a project. Vinsobres, with its altitude, its high proportion of Syrah and its relatively northern location, provides a significant minority and the other key communes are Cairanne, Séguret and Valréas, all lauded and all tending to eschew more indulgent styles of Grenache. Elegant and aromatic, the outstanding 2015 has a dense textured palate, ripe and fruit-forward and with a pleasing lick of pepper at the finish. Drink now to 2021.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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£108.48
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Domaine des Escaravailles,
Ready, but will keep,
Syrah adds polish and floral lift to this outstanding blend of Grenache and Carignan. The blue and red clay terroir of the vineyards is ideally suited to the generous vintage that was 2015. Here we enjoy ripe yet savoury notes, with a backdrop of liquorice and a touch of star anise, garlanded with Mediterranean flowers. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Escaravailles dates from 1953 and is now in the more than capable hands of Gilles Ferran, who has constructed a new cuverie and built the reputation of the domaine into one of the leading names in the region. The property is located high in the hills behind the villages of Roaix and Rasteau, where the vines enjoy a special microclimate: here it is relatively warm despite the altitude, with exceptional expositions and soils which are dominated by red and blue clay. Escaravaille, for those of an inquisitive disposition, is the Occitane word for beetle (hence the labels) and also the term once used to describe the black-robed monks of the region, presumably from the Benedictine order.
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£15.95
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£86.10
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£58.74
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La Bastide St. Vincent,
Ready, but will keep,
Laurent’s initial anxieties about relatively low levels of acidity in the Grenache have been dispelled over the élevage period. The Vacqueyras is certainly fresh and juicy – its fruit sourced from ten parcels and dominated by the 75 percent of tank-aged Grenache. Approachable and ripe, yet discretely structured, this works very well and can be drunk in relative youth. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015–a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
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Domaine de Durban,
Drink now,
Apricot and white peach, with citric hints and a whiff of mandarin, courtesy of the Muscat de Frontignan à Petits Grains. This is a wonderfully refreshing and finely-balanced pudding wine, enticingly different in style to the majority of wines in this category and gaining in popularity all the time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Domaines Durban and Bernardins are the two leading producers of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, but made in completely contrasting styles and both worthy of inclusion here. Durban is located, in every sense, at the top of the village, its guiding principles being elegance and harmony of flavour. Although technically something of a misnomer, the phrase ‘Vin Doux Naturel’ seems most appropriate here.
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Ready, but will improve,
Philippe is very proud of the Demeter accreditation his estate has achieved, which has long been the leading light in this recently elevated Cru. He always has a pleasingly pithy turn of phrase to describe a vintage. Praising both the concentration and tannic harmony of 2015, he adds that it is “more olive than spice” in profile. And so it appears… the ripeness has as its corollary very sweet pips and firm skins, all contributing to an assemblage which is already rounded and soft. Its silky texture quietly supported by a classically ornate balustrade.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
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£19.45
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£210.00
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£148.92
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Domaine Montirius,
Ready, but will keep,
Unusually the Gigondas brace at Montirius were bottled before their Vacqueyras siblings this year, but they certainly do not want for structure. The fruit is darker and more persistent in this cuvée than sometimes, yet the ensemble is harmonious, the child of a doting biodynamic regime. As usual the blend favours Grenache over Mourvèdre, in a ratio of four to one. Drink 2017 to 2020.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Justine Saurel now works in the winery at Montirius, helping her parents Eric and Christine, and no doubt adding ideas from her winemaking sojourn in New Zealand. Christine describes the wines of 2013 as having ‘la concentration délicate’, which reminds me of the old Mitterand strapline of ‘la force tranquille’; be that as it may, it accurately describes the wines in a year where volumes were low but quality is high. Moulin
As to the 2013s, I was able to taste the two Gigondas releases, both of which were solid. Starting with the 2013 Terre des Aines, it’s a pretty, fruity, forward and supple effort that gives up lots of blueberry, blackberry, violets and hints of leafy herbs in its delicious, hard to resist style. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Justine Saurel now works in the winery at Montirius, helping her parents Eric and Christine, and no doubt adding ideas from her winemaking sojourn in New Zealand. Christine describes the wines of 2013 as having ‘la concentration délicate’, which reminds me of the old Mitterand strapline of ‘la force tranquille’; be that as it may, it accurately describes the wines in a year where volumes were low but quality is high. Moulin
As to the 2013s, I was able to taste the two Gigondas releases, both of which were solid. Starting with the 2013 Terre des Aines, it’s a pretty, fruity, forward and supple effort that gives up lots of blueberry, blackberry, violets and hints of leafy herbs in its delicious, hard to resist style. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
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La Bastide St. Vincent,
Ready, but will improve,
Very well received in the restaurants of London and further afield, Laurent’s Gigondas does not sit at the tarry, rustic and tannic end of the spectrum. Its style is more inverse nostalgia, inclining towards an expression of dark cherry fruit, Asian spice, firm yet fine tannins and a generous mouth-feel. The 2015 excels in all of these areas. Drink 2019-2026.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Flanking the evocatively named Dentelles de Montmirail, with vines on the equally evocative Plateau des Garrigues, La Bastide Saint Vincent is a delightful, family-owned wine domaine with 17th century origins. The unassuming Laurent Daniel never overworks his fruit and his fruit repays him with interest; a very subtle producer of supple wines. Laurent was happy with both quality and quantity in 2015 – a vintage which he compares, somewhat against the trend, to 2007.
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£19.95
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£215.40
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£153.48
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Drink now,
A famous blend with the limelight shared predominately between Marsanne and Viognier, with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picpoul all vocal as minority shareholders. The wine is appropriately complex, with agrumes, figs, nougat and hints of exotic fruit on the nose, followed by a palate dominated by star anise, spice, almonds and pineapple. Drink now to 2024.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
Simon Field MW-Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
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£215.40
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Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin,
Ready, but will keep,
Clay-limestone soils and 50-year-old vines are the progenitors of this exemplary blend, which is made up of 60 percent Grenache, and 40 percent Mourvèdre, with, unusually, no Syrah in 2014. Pumping over for 12 days, followed by nine month’s ageing, have yielded a gloriously fruity wine, with hints of soft spice and leather in the background and spicy subtle tannins even further in the background.
Drink 2018-2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£20.50
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£221.40
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will keep,
Domaine Combier is based on the plateau of La Roche de Glun, its vines located at the foot of the hill of Hermitage. The Combiers came to Pont de l’Isère in 1962 and concentrated on growing fruit and apricots. It became clear that some of their land was adjacent to that of a young vigneron by the name of Alain Graillot. The transition to vines has been wholly successful and Laurent’s wines are now considered every bit as good as those of his great friend next door.
The older vines fared a little better in the somewhat complicated conditions of 2014, and those with a relatively more northerly location, benefiting from a little more granite in the soil maybe, have provided the bedrock of this cuvée in 2014. The wine is aromatic, floral and generous, with a silky come-hither appeal and a gentle, dignified finish. Drink now to 2018.
The older vines fared a little better in the somewhat complicated conditions of 2014, and those with a relatively more northerly location, benefiting from a little more granite in the soil maybe, have provided the bedrock of this cuvée in 2014. The wine is aromatic, floral and generous, with a silky come-hither appeal and a gentle, dignified finish. Drink now to 2018.
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£232.20
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Domaine Emmanuel Darnaud,
Ready, but will keep,
For Emmanuel, 2015 was a relatively dry year – unusual in the sense that his vineyards are in Roche le Glun and therefore fairly near to the river. The sécheresse is not evidenced in the finished article, however. The low yields and coaxing alchemy of a gentle but persuasive extraction have ensured harmony; plenty of plummy, damson weight; fine, upstanding, youthful tannins; and signature aromatics of tapenade and Indian spice. This one will harmonise very agreeably over the short to medium term. Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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£171.48
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Chave,
Ready, but will keep,
Jean-Louis is John the Baptiste to the re-emerging St Joseph appellation, if you will pardon the blasphemy. Despite the family’s association with the hill of Hermitage, it is across the river in Mauves where the family have resided over the centuries and it is here in St Joseph where he has bought and completely transformed the famous Clos Florentin estate. Indeed some of the estate fruit finds its way into this (négociant) offering; it is poised and powerful, with dark cherry and spice, finely etched tannins and a long finish. Far from discrete, at the bottom of the composition is etched the signature of the master. Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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£247.80
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£180.48
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will keep,
As always, an archetype of top quality Crozes- Hermitage, careless of the tricky vintage conditions it seems. Tapenade and crushed raspberry dominate the palate, which is fresh and generous at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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£22.95
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£90.24
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
From vines on the northerly edge of the appellation, this has been aged for over a year in barriques, 20 percent of which are new. There is crushed blueberry on the nose with hints of tapenade, then raspberry and ripe plum – a wine with an elegant Burgundian style.
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£247.80
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Maison Nicolas Perrin,
Ready, but will keep,
Nicolas sources Syrah grapes from Tournon and Mauves in the South of the appellation and Chavanay and St Pierre-de-Boeuf a little further to the north. The assemblage is aged for 10 months in one and two year-old barrels. The 2012 has attractive red and black berried fruit at its core and a fine, nicely etched, gently peppery finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
It is heartening to see how Nicolas Jaboulet, one the gentlemen of the Rhône Valley, has re-emerged after the purchase of his eponymous company by the Fray family. Joining forces with the Perrins of Beaucastel has proved to be a very wise move, and as a result contracts have been drawn up with some excellent growers across the region, as our selection clearly demonstrates.
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£258.60
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Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
Located on the plateau above Malleval, these vines are over 30 years old and the wine is rich, spicy and wonderfully harmonious, with notes of crushed rock and ripe blackberry informing the palate.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
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£23.95
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£129.30
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£14.40
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£94.74
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Domaine Coursodon,
Ready, but will keep,
The red Silice is brought up half in demi-muid, half in barrique, and in 2014 is typically generous and approachable, with raspberry fruit to the fore, a floral elegance and no lack of the linearity of structure for which this appellation is so justly famed.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£24.00
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£259.20
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Domaine Coursodon,
Drink now,
Maturation is shared between demi-muids and pièces, none of which are new. The signature redfruit ebullience is present and correct, with soft, spicy tannins adding to the appeal. Primary fruit dominates, pure and not simple.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
This vintage was not without its challenges for Jérôme: frost in May, hail in July and very low, uneconomical yields. A very late harvest has produced wines with low pHs, relatively low alcohol and very subtle phenolics. He likens the style to some of the wines made by his father Pierre in the 1980s. In warm years his wines can be very (although not over) ripe, so this redressing of nature’s balance is actually quite welcome, as evidenced by the quality of the finished wines.
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£269.40
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Eric Texier,
Drink now,
Still in the Ardèche, this is from old 70-year-old Serine, a venerable Syrah clone, grown on gneiss, with no sulphur dioxide added at all. The 2013 has impressive mineral-tinged black cherry fruit backed up by peppery notes. The palate is meaty and lively with raspberry and cherry fruit. Overall the impression is one of structure, Corinthian rather than Doric, and purity of intent.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The wines of Domaine de Pergaud are very well known to the cognoscenti of the Rhône Valley, perhaps best known under the name of their charismatic progenitor. Eric Texier, a nuclear engineer, decided to devote himself to reinvigorating the wines of the appellation Brézème, on the east side of the Rhône River, 30 kilometres south of Hermitage, with which it once shared an illustrious reputation and, it seems, a similar granitic soil structure. If this was not sufficiently difficult, he also took on some vines on the other side— of the river in the Ardèche département the AOP of St Julien en St Alban. Farming organically and making wines in the natural way, adding only a little sulphur at bottling, his has been not only to reawaken old appellations (one thinks of Seyssuel) but also to make wines in a more ‘traditional’ style, that is to say lighter and more elegant. He appears to have succeeded in both these aspirations.
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£24.95
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£269.40
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£30.00
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£198.48
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Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa,
Ready, but will improve,
The Préface may be so named as it is an introduction to the range, and a very compelling introduction it is too. Totally de-stemmed Syrah from vines located mainly in Sarras, its fruit matured in demi-muid for a year, this is a rich and spicy wine, its tannins finely etched and its finish long and silky.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
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£24.95
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£104.70
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£45.00
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£74.22
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Domaine Francois Villard,
Ready, but will keep,
The Reflet is sourced from decomposed granitic vineyards in parcels in the communes of Limony, St piere de Bœuf and Chavanay, that is to say the northern end of the appellation. With only 30% of the bunches destemmed, and an ageing of 50% in new barrique for eighteen months, the wine is supple and complex, with attractive currant leaf-aromas, chewy but elegant tannins and a quiet momentum on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The loquacious François Villard is something of an instinctive winemaker. Sometimes his instincts take him down a cul-de-sac, but generally they demonstrate a clos affinity to his many and varied plots and projects. It is therefore not entirely inappropriate that he cites 2012 as a vintage of great purity and potential, but also one where there is a greater qualitative gap than sometimes between good and less good examples. We, unsurprisingly, have decided to buy the wines which fall into the former group.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The loquacious François Villard is something of an instinctive winemaker. Sometimes his instincts take him down a cul-de-sac, but generally they demonstrate a clos affinity to his many and varied plots and projects. It is therefore not entirely inappropriate that he cites 2012 as a vintage of great purity and potential, but also one where there is a greater qualitative gap than sometimes between good and less good examples. We, unsurprisingly, have decided to buy the wines which fall into the former group.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£120.00
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Domaine Chaume Arnaud,
Ready, but will improve,
Cadène is made up of three co-planted and elevated parcels of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, with an average age of over 90 years. The undulating hills are described, rather poetically by Philippe, in terms of a “bossu” (hunchback), and their differing aspects certainly contribute to the complexity. The natural freshness of Vinsobres underwrites the generosity in 2015, with Mourvèdre spice and Grenache flesh all harmoniously entwined. Drink 2019 - 2026.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud is owned and run by Valérie and Philippe Chaume-Arnaud, who own 13.5 hectares situated in and around Vinsobres. Their reds are made up principally of Grenache (60 percent), with Syrah (20 percent), some ancient Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre (10 percent), plus Viognier and Marsanne (10 percent). Yields are kept low, all soil treatments are organic and harvesting is done solely by hand. Most of the vines average 30 years in age, going up to 65 for the Carignan in the Vinsobres cuvée. Philippe looks after the vines while Valérie works the cellar, all under the watchful eye of her parents – her mother's method of tracking Philippe down is to drive literally into a vineyard and stand and scream at the top of her voice until he appears.
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£26.95
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£291.00
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£32.40
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£216.48
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Domaine Combier,
Ready, but will improve,
New to our list, this is a rather special wine, sourced – as the name suggests – from plots in the north of the appellation, in Gervans to be precise, where the soil is dominated by loess and gneiss. The aspect has a northerly inclination too, affording a certain rigour to the wine, which has marked peppery acidity, dark fruit and a powerful finish worthy of near neighbours on the hill of Hermitage itself.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
When he is not piloting himself and Jean- Michel Gerin to their joint venture in Priorat, the amiable Laurent Combier works hard, and with great success, to develop the international profile of Crozes-Hermitage. Experimentation in the winery, where vinification may take place in a variety of vessels, including concrete eggs, allied to a keen sense of the under-appreciated differences in terroir in the appellation, have ensured that his wines maintain their primacy. They are always ripe, fruity and balanced, as achieved in 2013 despite the hail and resulting low yields.
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£26.95
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£291.00
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£32.40
Bottle 6 x 75cl 4cs
£108.24
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Domaine Coursodon,
Drink now,
Domaine Coursodon has long been one of the leading St Joseph wine estates. The youthful but intelligent Jérôme Coursodon is keen to emphasise the individuality and personality of this appellation. In St Joseph the watchwords are elegance, aromatic refinement and poise on the palate. Jérôme fully subscribes to such attributes, crafting wines with class and perfect balance.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
This is a very pure and honest expression of pure Marsanne, with no oak intervention and a relatively early bottling. A couple of years down the line and the zesty citric notes have taken on a rounder, softer texture with honeysuckle and even verbena in evidence. A pleasingly challenging bitter-sweet note tickles the back palate as it should always do with top-notch Marsanne.
Bottle
£26.95
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£291.00
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£32.40
Bottle 12 x 75cl 3cs
£216.48
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
Ready, but will keep,
Granite slopes behind the key villages of Mauves, Glun and Tournon are the source of this soft and supremely elegant St Joseph, which has been aged for 14 months in five- to six- year-old barrels. Cassis and sun-dried herbs inform the palate which is opulent yet impressively light on its feet.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
The news from Domaine du Tunnel is that the eponymous (disused railway) tunnel has almost been renovated by M Robert and will house a naturally cool—in both senses of the word—bottling cellar and tasting room, up in the hills above St Péray. This charming and very welcoming family continue to make great wines and were lucky enough to avoid hail in 2013; the resulting wines are excellent, with the whites boasting freshness and definition while the reds are pleasingly forward. Looking at the wines from barrel, the 2013 Saint Joseph has a terrific perfume of violets, wild herbs, spring flowers and pepper-laced purple fruits. It’s medium-bodied, supple and polished, with impressive purity. It has some tannin emerging on the finish, but I suspect these will fall away once in bottle. It should drink nicely for 4-6 years after release.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Case price (Bottle 6 x 75cl)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 10cs
£122.46
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