2020 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Rhône
Critics reviews
Pure and lifted with the aroma of fresh, berry fruit. Less dense than imagined but pure, fresh and juicy with extremely fine-grained tannins. Refined and almost approachable but history says it will age.
Drink 2024 - 2032
James Lawther MW, JancisRobinson.com (Oct 2021)
The 2020 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert boasts effusive aromas of cracked pepper, black olives, cherries and blueberries. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers some soft dusty tannins and decent length, but it's surprisingly lacking in concentration.
Drink 2023 - 2033
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (Jan 2022)
Pronounced blue fruit character with pretty dried spice notes. Ripe and juicy. Full-bodied with creamy tannins and a fruity, soft close. From organically grown grapes.
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (Nov 2021)
About this WINE
Jaboulet
Paul Jaboulet Aîné is an iconic producer in the Rhône Valley. Founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet (father of Paul), it was Paul’s son Louis and grandson Gérard who can be heralded among the great ambassadors for both the region and the négociant. Upon Gérard’s untimely death in 1997, the business began struggling and was sold to the Frey family in 2005.
Caroline Frey, daughter of owner Jean-Jacques Frey, has been at the helm of winemaking here since 2006. She immediately began converting the estate to sustainable farming, achieving organic certification in 2016. In 2022, Jean-Guillaume Prats, of Bordeaux fame, was brought onboard.
Crozes-Hermitage
Crôzes-Hermitage is the largest AC in the Northern Rhône, producing 10 times the volume of Hermitage and over half of the Northern Rhône’s total production. The appellation was created in 1937 with the single commune of Crozes, which is situated northeast of the hill of Hermitage. Wines are now produced from 11 different communes.
Its vineyards surround the hill of Hermitage on equally hilly terrain where richer soils produce wines that are softer and fruitier, with a more forward style. The Syrah variety is used, but legally Marsanne and Roussanne can be added to the blend (up to 15 percent). In the north, the commune of Gervans is similar to Les Bessards in Hermitage, with granite soil producing tannic reds that need time to evolve.While in Larnage, in the south, the heavy clay soils give the wine breadth and depth (albeit they can sometimes be flabby), the soils to the east of river on higher ground comprise stony, sandy and clay limestone, making them ideal for the production of white wines.
The best reds are produced on the plateaus of Les Chassis and Les Sept Chenin, which straddles the infamous N7 road to the south of Tain. Here the land is covered with cailloux roulés, which resemble the small pudding stones fond in Châteauneuf.
The wines can vary hugely in quality and style, and the majority of the reds tend to be fairly light. Many of the wines are made by a variation of the macération carbonique technique, bottled no later than one year after the vinification. The best producers, however, use traditional fermentation techniques.
There are small amounts of white wine made from Marsanne and Roussanne, accounting for approximately 10 percent of the appellation. The finest whites are produced from around Mercurol.
Recommended producers: Paul Jaboulet, Chapoutier, Colombier, Ferraton
Best vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004, 1999, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1988,
Syrah/Shiraz
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.
Buying options
Add to wishlist
Description
Domaine de Thalabert occupies an impressive 40 hectares of Crozes-Hermitage – it’s both the largest and the oldest vineyard of the appellation. Cassis and blueberry perfume mixes with black pepper and violets on the nose. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with sweet, wild berry fruit balanced by fine, velvety tannins. Open and accessible, though it could hold.
Drink 2022 to 2033.
Georgina Haacke, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Mar 2022)
wine at a glance
Delivery and quality guarantee