Cornas
Cornas was established in 1938. Only reds are made, and solely from the Syrah grape; a contributing factor to their style is the granitic soil. The wines are made traditionally and often spend two years in oak. They are also strong and powerful – a cross between Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie – but typically display less finesse. After five to 10 years of ageing the best examples take on a more elegant and complex character.
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For laying down,
Brilliant purple. Powerful, mineral-tinged cherry and blackberry scents, along with notes of bacon fat, licorice, potpourri and pungent flowers. Pure, concentrated and energetic on the palate, offering deeply concentrated black and blue fruit flavors that gain weight and become sweeter with air. Closes extremely long, sappy and sweet, juicy acidity adding lift and cut to the blue-fruit-dominated, youthfully tannic finish.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous (winter 2015)
Josh Raynolds, Vinous (winter 2015)
Domaine Thierry Allemand,
For laying down,
These 45-year-old vines, located in diverse, if unfailingly vertiginous, terroirs to the north-west of the village have produced a wine, the floral aromatics of which belie the depth and power of its core. Graphite, plum and dark chocolate are all evidenced, and there is certainly no need for anxiety on the subject of concentration.
Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Domaine Thierry Allemand,
For laying down,
There is a little clay (15%) interspersed with the decomposed granite and the wine is accordingly more open with red fruit notes in the ascendant. Very fine but authoritative tannins and whisper of salinity on the finish mark out this cuvée.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Driving up from Cornas village to Thierry’s remote winery, following his mother, whose driving was adventurous to say the least, suddenly turned into a scene from a Buñuel film: the mists descended and then suddenly the breaks screeched as we encountered a large black van, the leading vehicle in what turned out to be a funeral cortege. We were spared and the audience with the magus was well worth the risk. His philosophy focuses on whole bunch pressing , pigeage au pied and minimal sulphur and is essentially traditional; he has added the extra dimension of micro-parcel selection and exceptionally low yields, both of which were perhaps less popular with his forebears. Be that as it may, the 2012s demonstrate, once again, the sheer skill of the man.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Driving up from Cornas village to Thierry’s remote winery, following his mother, whose driving was adventurous to say the least, suddenly turned into a scene from a Buñuel film: the mists descended and then suddenly the breaks screeched as we encountered a large black van, the leading vehicle in what turned out to be a funeral cortege. We were spared and the audience with the magus was well worth the risk. His philosophy focuses on whole bunch pressing , pigeage au pied and minimal sulphur and is essentially traditional; he has added the extra dimension of micro-parcel selection and exceptionally low yields, both of which were perhaps less popular with his forebears. Be that as it may, the 2012s demonstrate, once again, the sheer skill of the man.
Domaine Alain Voge,
Ready, but will improve,
This legendary wine is actually a blend, from 1925 vines in Les Côtes and slightly younger vines from Le Chaillot. The grapes are partially destemmed and the must is aged for two years. The result is outstanding; the nose marrying notes of coulis and spice and the palate rich, long and dignified. Surely one of the very best wines in the appellation.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
Domaine Thierry Allemand,
For laying down,
Steep and stark (decomposed) granitic splendour has framed a wine where intervention, be it in the form of racking or de-stemming, or pretty much anything else, has been eschewed in the name of purity of thought and clarity of deed. The result, somewhat paradoxically, is virtually impenetrable; such is its tannic livery. The intensity and quality of fruit will come through over time and the result will be a wonderful match for the richest of Lyonnais fare.
Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2026.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Domaine Vincent Paris,
Ready, but will improve,
This 100-year-old plot from the Reyard lieu-dit has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd favourite; if anything the efforts of the nephew now exceed those of the uncle; be that as it may, the wine is now definitely one of the very best in this fashionable appellation. Inky black, with haunting aromas of violet and woodsmoke, the wine is a perfect paradigm of powerful precision and poised potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas la Geynale is slightly more perfumed and wild than the Granit 60, with terrific black pepper, smoked earth, leather, meat and lots of black currant fruit. While from a cooler vintage, it doesn’t lack for stuffing and has full-bodied richness, a layered, ripe texture and sweet tannin. It’s another rocking wine from this young vigneron who’s at the top of his game.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas la Geynale is slightly more perfumed and wild than the Granit 60, with terrific black pepper, smoked earth, leather, meat and lots of black currant fruit. While from a cooler vintage, it doesn’t lack for stuffing and has full-bodied richness, a layered, ripe texture and sweet tannin. It’s another rocking wine from this young vigneron who’s at the top of his game.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Domaine Alain Voge,
Ready, but will keep,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieus-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 10months. The 2010 is deep of colour, with a nose of smoked raspberry and peat, with cloves and violets providing an aromatic back-drop. The tannins are relatively tame, and the finish as warm as a Mediterranean evening.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
Domaine Eric & Joel Durand,
Ready, but will improve,
The Durand brothers, Eric and Joël, joined forces in 1996 to devote the polycultural family business to the cultivation of the grape. The Domaine is based in Châteaubourg in the Ardèche and covers twenty hectares, with Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne farmed over the appellations of Cornas, St Peray and St Joseph in addition to the IGP des Collines Rhodanienes.
With steep vineyards surveying the village from all angles, Durand is well placed to make one of the signature wines of the commune. The grapes are destemmed and cold soaked before a three week fermentation/maceration, the temperature being kept at a maximum of 28 degrees. The wine is matured for 10 months in barrique, and boasts classic Durand gloss and benchmark Cornas power, savoury and to be savoured over time.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
With steep vineyards surveying the village from all angles, Durand is well placed to make one of the signature wines of the commune. The grapes are destemmed and cold soaked before a three week fermentation/maceration, the temperature being kept at a maximum of 28 degrees. The wine is matured for 10 months in barrique, and boasts classic Durand gloss and benchmark Cornas power, savoury and to be savoured over time.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Domaine Alain Voge,
Ready, but will improve,
The age of the vines here varies from 25 to 90 years old, sourced from plots in Le Chaillot, Les Mezards and les Reynards. A near opaque colour with an iridescent sheen cedes to a fantastic bejewelled palate, which seems to be both modern and traditional at the same time, such is its creamy richness and its fine savoury finish.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
The eponymous steep granitic slopes are located in Patou, Les Mazards and Saumon and are therefore quite widely spaced, albeit within the context of a 130 hectare appellation. The evocative Parisian nose of violets and cooked meat cedes, naturally enough, to a palate which is both floral and savoury, with powerful tannins buttressing the edifice as they should in such a fine vintage.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
This famous plot, passed down from Vincent’s esteemed uncle, Robert Michel, has vines which are now well past their one hundredth birthday. In deference Vincent matures La Geynale for three more months than the Granit 60, that is to say a total of 18 months, although the casks are similarly aged (two-eight years). The 2012 is riper than I recall on the attack and yet has harder, more brutal tannins on the finish. This is not necessarily a negative observation for a top Cornas.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
Domaine Vincent Paris,
Ready, but will improve,
The youthful nephew of Berry Bros. & Rudd favourite Robert Michel, who is now retired, is taking on something of an eminence grise persona himself these days, running the Syndicate of Cornas with great skill. It helps to have such fine vineyards of course, many of them inherited. The 2011 vintage he views as less tannic but more aromatic than 2010, to his liking in other words, as he often states that aromatic harmony is the key to a great Cornas.
The famous Geynale site is located immediately above the village in the Reynards commune, its vines chiselled into unadulterated granite, dating from 1910. Dark fruit and massive, monolithic tannins hold sway and will do so for quite some time. Then the sweet and the savoury will start to do battle.
The famous Geynale site is located immediately above the village in the Reynards commune, its vines chiselled into unadulterated granite, dating from 1910. Dark fruit and massive, monolithic tannins hold sway and will do so for quite some time. Then the sweet and the savoury will start to do battle.
Domaine Vincent Paris,
Ready, but will improve,
La Geynale is a four hectare south-facing vineyard perched immediately above the village and made up of soils of granite and crumbled loess. Robert Michel has now retired and Vincent is now stamping his identity on the wine, to outstanding effect here! Dark, dark fruit, a massive block of tannin and dark savoury fruit lurking beneath. One of my favourite wines of the entire week spent in the North.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our relationship with Vincent Paris, the unassuming but talented nephew of Robert Michel, was momentarily threatened by what we felt to be far too much volatile acidity in his 2008 wines. Fortunately the error was both acknowledged and rectified; only the very able can be so humble in contrition, and the subsequent vintages have both been magnificent. Having such ideally-located vineyards is, of course, rather helpful in this regard.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer