Cornas
Cornas was established in 1938. Only reds are made, and solely from the Syrah grape; a contributing factor to their style is the granitic soil. The wines are made traditionally and often spend two years in oak. They are also strong and powerful – a cross between Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie – but typically display less finesse. After five to 10 years of ageing the best examples take on a more elegant and complex character.
Cornas is situated directly south of St. Joseph, and to the west of the river Rhône. It is 12km south of Tournon and directly east of Valence. Importantly, temperatures here are hotter than Hermitage, which is only 7km away. Cornas is a small appellation located in a south-facing semi-ampitheatre with granite-rich soils. The appellation was established in 1938 and only red wines are made, produced solely from the Syrah grape.
A contributing factor to the style of the wines is the granitic soil; the wines are made traditionally and often spend two years in oak. They are also strong and powerful – a cross between Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, but typically displaying less elegance and finesse. They tend to be much more serious wines than either St Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage, however.Cornas can have a slightly raw and rustic side to them. Young Cornas can be deep and dense, almost pitch black in colour and ferociously tannic. After five to 10 years of ageing the best examples take on a more elegant and complex character, marked by aromas of sous bois and wild animals.
Recommended producers: Robert Michel, Augustus Clape, Paul Jaboulet
Best vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004, 2001, 1999, 1991, 1990
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Domaine Eric & Joel Durand,
Ready, but will improve,
Granitic vineyards south of the village (on the gentle Patou slopes to be precise) have left their imprimatur on this wine. Extraction is closer to infusion, as elegance is key, the 20% stalks initially recalling a slightly stalky note, but this, according to Joel, will add to the savoury character and tension in the wine on maturity. A creative tension, no doubt.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
New to our En Primeur Offer, Domaine Durand has been ‘in my sights’ for several years. The engaging and highly competent brothers Joel and Eric are based in Chateaubourg just to the south of Mauves. They farm nine hectares of St Peray, seven in St Joseph and 19 in Cornas , where they belong firmly in the vanguard of the village’s much lauded jeunesse dorée….their philosophy favours later harvests, which , they advise with a smile, allows nature to ‘do more of the hard work’!
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
New to our En Primeur Offer, Domaine Durand has been ‘in my sights’ for several years. The engaging and highly competent brothers Joel and Eric are based in Chateaubourg just to the south of Mauves. They farm nine hectares of St Peray, seven in St Joseph and 19 in Cornas , where they belong firmly in the vanguard of the village’s much lauded jeunesse dorée….their philosophy favours later harvests, which , they advise with a smile, allows nature to ‘do more of the hard work’!
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Maison Ferraton,
Ready, but will improve,
Our 2012 Rhône Vintage Recommendation: Favourite Cornas
From 50-year-old, south-facing vines, the Patou adds a sense of restraint to the dark, brooding fruit that we want to find in a Cornas, which is indeed also present here, juicy and smooth. The tannins are a little fresher than often found, which gives a lighter feel to the finish and leaves you wanting more, rather than feeling overwhelmed by density.
Guy Davies, Wine Team
Very dark and serious on the nose, with minerality this is typically Cornas. Savoury and structured on the palate, this is tannic but very well-integrated. There's plenty of fruit to balance the structure. Quite a bit going on, a very interesting wine.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager
Damien has been doing a lot of work in Cornas and has singled out this plot just to the south of the village for his special attention. They call the decomposed granite ‘gore’ in these parts, for reasons which are not immediately apparent, but it certainly underwrites the power of the wine, which will have had 14 months in barrel when the time comes for it to be bottled.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Ferreton’s renaissance continues apace; Chapoutier ownership has in no way dulled its distinctive voice and in Damien Brissett it has a world-class winemaker. With such prestigious vineyards on the hill of Hermitage (and elsewhere) Ferraton is careful to manage the distinction between its owned vines and those worked in partnership as a high-class négoçiant. Whilst we are drawn, somewhat inevitably, towards the former, as our selection confirms, there is no denying the excellent quality of the entire range.
From 50-year-old, south-facing vines, the Patou adds a sense of restraint to the dark, brooding fruit that we want to find in a Cornas, which is indeed also present here, juicy and smooth. The tannins are a little fresher than often found, which gives a lighter feel to the finish and leaves you wanting more, rather than feeling overwhelmed by density.
Guy Davies, Wine Team
Very dark and serious on the nose, with minerality this is typically Cornas. Savoury and structured on the palate, this is tannic but very well-integrated. There's plenty of fruit to balance the structure. Quite a bit going on, a very interesting wine.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager
Damien has been doing a lot of work in Cornas and has singled out this plot just to the south of the village for his special attention. They call the decomposed granite ‘gore’ in these parts, for reasons which are not immediately apparent, but it certainly underwrites the power of the wine, which will have had 14 months in barrel when the time comes for it to be bottled.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Ferreton’s renaissance continues apace; Chapoutier ownership has in no way dulled its distinctive voice and in Damien Brissett it has a world-class winemaker. With such prestigious vineyards on the hill of Hermitage (and elsewhere) Ferraton is careful to manage the distinction between its owned vines and those worked in partnership as a high-class négoçiant. Whilst we are drawn, somewhat inevitably, towards the former, as our selection confirms, there is no denying the excellent quality of the entire range.
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£34.95
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£377.40
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 18 months. Stylish and feminine, the wine has a high-toned dark fruit and plush, expensive tannins; the perfume is memorable as with all great wines from this oft misunderstood appellation.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
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£35.00
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£378.00
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£288.96
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Domaine Yves Cuilleron,
For laying down,
Preternaturally energetic, Yves Cuilleron is never far away from the action. The action these days – if you will pardon the vernacular – is definitely in Cornas, at least as far as the northern Rhône is concerned. It, therefore, comes as no surprise that Yves has taken contractual ownership of a finely delineated granitic terrace just above the village. The wine resembles the man – cerebral, sturdy and yet with plenty of vivacity. The 2012 is a worthy imprimatur.
Simon Field MW, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Simon Field MW, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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Maison Ferraton,
For laying down,
A very late plot, understandably given its imperious 300-metre location, Les Eygats is located on steep slopes of decomposed granite high above the village of Cornas. Damien Brisset is delighted with the results in 2013, pure and profound being the words he uses, which are pretty similar in English. Ageing for 14 months sees 10 percent new oak, but all the vitality in the wine comes from the sheer quality of the Syrah grapes.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
We have followed Ferraton for a long time, some of it, to be frank, less than entirely successful. Our confidence has been based on the quality of the holdings in Hermitage and in the fact that Chapoutier have proved to be liberal and forward-thinking owners, gently guiding but not domineering. In Damien Brisset, now firmly established as winemaker, Ferraton has a great asset, as these excellent 2013s show. An early, almost Pavlovian quest to over-oak has now ceded to thoughtful winemaking and, with the 2013s, a very impressive range, the very best wines of which are listed here.
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Maison Ferraton,
Ready, but will improve,
A streamlined Cornas, with tension as well as a wealth of fine fruit – nothing at all overdone or out of kilter like some wines from this area which can be just too dense. South facing vines keeping their cool due to their high altitude seems to be the trick – a fine Cornas from one of Hermitage’s lesser-known lights and terrific value too.
Tom Cave, Cellar Plan Manager
From the named lieu-dit to the north of the named village, this is a worthy illustration of both the skill of the winemaker and the renaissance of Cornas in general. Herbal and rich, with hints of jambon cru and liqueur-steeped cherry, Les Eygats marries sweet and savoury, Carnival and Lent, with effortless aplomb.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
Tom Cave, Cellar Plan Manager
From the named lieu-dit to the north of the named village, this is a worthy illustration of both the skill of the winemaker and the renaissance of Cornas in general. Herbal and rich, with hints of jambon cru and liqueur-steeped cherry, Les Eygats marries sweet and savoury, Carnival and Lent, with effortless aplomb.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Ferraton is owned by Chapoutier, but run as an autonomous entity. For a long time it seemed to underperform, almost as if shocked in the headlights of the energetic charisma of its benefactor. The potential of the vineyards, some of which are located on the very best sites on the Hill of Hermitage, has never been disputed. Now, with Bordelais winemaker Damien Brisset firmly in control, one begins to see, at last, the realisation of potential. I am pleased to have ‘stuck with’ them over the years, as the maturing vintages seldom fail to please and the quality of the current vintage gets better and better.
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Maison Ferraton,
For laying down,
Les Eygats is located on the steep granitic slopes just to the north of the village of Cornas. Damien has captured the distinctive profile of classic Cornas, with high-toned floral notes sitting comfortably with the more savoury almost rustic mid-palate. Assertive tannins, as one would expect, but very precise and fine on the finish, which one maybe would not expect; a peacock’s tail of elegance.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 26%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.Bottle
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£420.60
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
For laying down,
The new chai has allowed more scope for separating the parcels in 2014, and the added rigour in the selection process is demonstrated by a finely drawn assemblage, its rounded generous fruit buttressed by very poised yet persistent tannins and a herbal backdrop.
Drink 2018-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2024.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£39.00
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£210.60
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£162.48
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
For laying down,
Stéphane now farms 15 parcels of Cornas, varying in size from small to very small to very small indeed. Nonetheless they run the stylistic gamut, from 50-year-old vines high on the plateau to steeper hillside plots to the south of the village. The decision on whether or not to de-stem is made parcel by parcel and the wine is matured in barriques of four years of age, bought from our mutual friends at Chateau la Nerthe. Sweet and savoury notes vie for attention, teasing the palate with an odd osmotic rapport; the 2012 has distinctive notes of cocoa and bay, supported by liquorice, black pepper and game.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Stéphane Robert is pithy when describing the 2012 vintage; ‘tout est bon....pas de soucis’. It’s hard to argue with such an analysis, especially when tasting his wines. The Roberts have built a wonderful chalet-like house with panoramic views of Cornas and beyond that Valance. It is close to the ruins of the eponymous railway tunnel, where they plan to build some kind of entertainment suite, although how they plan to do this is not quite clear. Their winery remains in the heart of St Peray and their wines are among the finest in the region.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Stéphane Robert is pithy when describing the 2012 vintage; ‘tout est bon....pas de soucis’. It’s hard to argue with such an analysis, especially when tasting his wines. The Roberts have built a wonderful chalet-like house with panoramic views of Cornas and beyond that Valance. It is close to the ruins of the eponymous railway tunnel, where they plan to build some kind of entertainment suite, although how they plan to do this is not quite clear. Their winery remains in the heart of St Peray and their wines are among the finest in the region.
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£40.00
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£172.80
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£130.98
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Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
This 100-year-old plot from the Reyard lieu-dit has been a long-standing Berry Bros. & Rudd favourite; if anything the efforts of the nephew now exceed those of the uncle; be that as it may, the wine is now definitely one of the very best in this fashionable appellation. Inky black, with haunting aromas of violet and woodsmoke, the wine is a perfect paradigm of powerful precision and poised potential.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas la Geynale is slightly more perfumed and wild than the Granit 60, with terrific black pepper, smoked earth, leather, meat and lots of black currant fruit. While from a cooler vintage, it doesn’t lack for stuffing and has full-bodied richness, a layered, ripe texture and sweet tannin. It’s another rocking wine from this young vigneron who’s at the top of his game.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
It makes a nice change to state that a winery is far from state-of-the-art; M Paris makes wine in the chaotic splendour behind a large but only half-built house in the backstreets of Cornas; so far, so unpromising. His wines, however, are sublime and it should come as no surprise that he has now joined the first rank of Cornas producers. This is more than appropriate and very good news for us, as we bought the wines from his Geynale vineyard when it was owned by his uncle Robert Michel, and have always considered it to be among the very best plots in the village. The 2013 Cornas la Geynale is slightly more perfumed and wild than the Granit 60, with terrific black pepper, smoked earth, leather, meat and lots of black currant fruit. While from a cooler vintage, it doesn’t lack for stuffing and has full-bodied richness, a layered, ripe texture and sweet tannin. It’s another rocking wine from this young vigneron who’s at the top of his game.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
The decomposed granite slopes of Les Mazards, rather alarmingly known locally as ‘gore’, are the source of this famous cuvée. Twenty-five percent of stems are added to the vat for a cuvaison of four weeks, then 24 months in cask, 20 percent of which are new. There is no Vieilles Fontaines this year, so all the grapes have gone into the Vieilles Vignes, which repays the compliment and is suitably magisterial and complex. Fresh and yet imperiously powerful, this wine will be one for the long, longer and longest terms.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Albéric Mazoyer, the charismatic sidekick to Alain Voge, is positive about 2013: there was no hail in Cornas and the late growing cycle was actually beneficial in this, the warmest of the northern enclaves, concentrating flavour but eschewing excess of any kind. The results are as spectacular as the volumes are scant.
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£55.00
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£594.00
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Jean-Luc Colombo,
For laying down,
Jean-Luc Colombo started to acquire his vineyards in Cornas in 1987. A controversial figure, he also works as a consultant to a fair proportion of other producers and is perhaps well described as the Rhône's answer to Michel Rolland, the “flying winemaker” from Bordeaux. Jean-Luc is very much a “hands-on” producer. His theories, and his manner of putting them forward, have often been heavily criticised by his competitors, but his wines speak for themselves – full, deep and rich.
A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (“she-wolf”, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate is silky and extremely long.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 25%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
A south-facing granitic single vineyard, protected by cedar and oak trees, La Louvée (“she-wolf”, this one means) is aged for 24 months and is a beautifully aromatic wine, with notes of raspberry, blueberry and violets evidenced. The palate is silky and extremely long.
Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 25%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
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£65.00
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£702.00
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
These 80-year-old vines are located in the Mazards commune, just to the north of the village. The aging is for 18 months this time, and this time 20% of the casks are new. The wine exhibits ripe, resonant fruit, pure and very fine with a savoury backdrop, and a long, appropriately tannic finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Alain Voge is one of the doyens of Cornas. He was unwell when I last visited in November, so we all wish him well. His long-standing and highly able partner Albéric de Mazoyer has kept the ship afloat with his customary brilliance and 2012 looks brilliant indeed, especially at the top end of this range. He praises the vintage for its charm and concentration, citing it as a year that is low on yield, high on aromatics and very high on quality.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Alain Voge is one of the doyens of Cornas. He was unwell when I last visited in November, so we all wish him well. His long-standing and highly able partner Albéric de Mazoyer has kept the ship afloat with his customary brilliance and 2012 looks brilliant indeed, especially at the top end of this range. He praises the vintage for its charm and concentration, citing it as a year that is low on yield, high on aromatics and very high on quality.
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Domaine Alain Voge,
Ready, but will improve,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieux-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for ten months. Stylish and feminine, this wine has cat-walk elegance and poise. The fruit is polished and high-toned; the tannins are plush and expensive; the perfume is memorable.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Clape, Michel, Juge, Voge… There is a hypnotic monosyllabic magic to some of the great names of Cornas in days of yore and both Voge and Clape continue to fly the flag and do so with great aplomb. Fiercely traditional and yet disarmingly modern, these wines provide the key to the reputation of the Cornas that was and the outstanding quality of the Cornas that is now.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Clape, Michel, Juge, Voge… There is a hypnotic monosyllabic magic to some of the great names of Cornas in days of yore and both Voge and Clape continue to fly the flag and do so with great aplomb. Fiercely traditional and yet disarmingly modern, these wines provide the key to the reputation of the Cornas that was and the outstanding quality of the Cornas that is now.
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Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
Granit 30 is an appropriate name, describing, as it does, both the soil and the gradient of the Parisian vineyard. Vincent’s wines are marked by both their perfume and their purity and this is a very fine example. The wine boasts aromatics of violets, licorice and garrigue and a weighty palate, with herbs, dark chocolate and a fruit character of dark cherry and myrtle.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Our relationship with Vincent Paris, the unassuming but talented nephew of Robert Michel, was momentarily threatened by what we felt to be far too much volatile acidity in his 2008 wines. Fortunately the error was both acknowledged and rectified; only the very able can be so humble in contrition, and the subsequent vintages have both been magnificent. Having such ideally-located vineyards is, of course, rather helpful in this regard.
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Maison Ferraton,
Ready, but will improve,
A new vineyard purchased by Ferraton, Les Eygats sits high and proud over the village of Cornas. Late ripening small berries have yielded a wine of great potential; cassis and morello cherries are to the fore now, with hints of violets and even jasmine. The tannins are tight, as one would expect, and the ageing potential is not inconsiderable.
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Domaine Dumien-Serrette,
Ready, but will keep,
The Patou vineyards have yielded a ripe and warmly textured wine, with notes of cassis, eucalypt and mocha evidenced. Slight high-toned, the core of the wine is plump and reassuring.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Located in the shadows of the spire of the village’s impressive church, Domaine Dumien-Serrette is unassuming and understated, unlike the wines of course, which glory in ripeness and fruit. Gilbert Serrette blends from barrique and larger vats, filled at this stage with the fruits that are distinguished only by whether or not their vines were located en coteau or en demi-coteau. He cites 2011 as an easier and less rustic vintage than 2010; the chronology and tempo of its evolution set in train by a rapid harvest on 14th and 15th September.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Located in the shadows of the spire of the village’s impressive church, Domaine Dumien-Serrette is unassuming and understated, unlike the wines of course, which glory in ripeness and fruit. Gilbert Serrette blends from barrique and larger vats, filled at this stage with the fruits that are distinguished only by whether or not their vines were located en coteau or en demi-coteau. He cites 2011 as an easier and less rustic vintage than 2010; the chronology and tempo of its evolution set in train by a rapid harvest on 14th and 15th September.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
£130.00
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
Ready, but will improve,
Rhône 2009 - Berrys Recommends
50+ year old vines show their class in Dom. du Tunnel Cornas wine. Pure, dark blackcurrant fruit bursts from the glass, followed by a classy, velvety palate, brimming with light black pepper and ripe fruits. The finish is mouthfilling as one hopes from Cornas, but equally elegant. Great balance and complexity at this price.
(Hamish Orr-Ewing, BBR Fine Wine) No fewer than fifteen parcels, some with 50-year-old-vines, are assembled in Stephane’s Cornas, which was bottled at the end of 2010. Lavender, licorice and a wild hint are all characteristics of the wine, together with traditionally powerful tannins and an elegant finish, perhaps a little less traditional for Cornas.
50+ year old vines show their class in Dom. du Tunnel Cornas wine. Pure, dark blackcurrant fruit bursts from the glass, followed by a classy, velvety palate, brimming with light black pepper and ripe fruits. The finish is mouthfilling as one hopes from Cornas, but equally elegant. Great balance and complexity at this price.
(Hamish Orr-Ewing, BBR Fine Wine) No fewer than fifteen parcels, some with 50-year-old-vines, are assembled in Stephane’s Cornas, which was bottled at the end of 2010. Lavender, licorice and a wild hint are all characteristics of the wine, together with traditionally powerful tannins and an elegant finish, perhaps a little less traditional for Cornas.
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Domaine Alain Voge,
Ready, but will improve,
The vines for this wine are located mainly in the lieus-dits of Chaillot and Les Reynards. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured in cask for 10months. The 2010 is deep of colour, with a nose of smoked raspberry and peat, with cloves and violets providing an aromatic back-drop. The tannins are relatively tame, and the finish as warm as a Mediterranean evening.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
2010 marks a spectacular return to form for this excellent Domaine which is based in St Peray and which has been no stranger to BBR over the years. . From the more traditional end of the spectrum, which in terms of Cornas means wines of incalculable gravitas, the Voge wines are now vinified by Chapoutier alumnus, Albert Mazoyers, and have never been better...
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Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
This famous plot, passed down from Vincent’s esteemed uncle, Robert Michel, has vines which are now well past their one hundredth birthday. In deference Vincent matures La Geynale for three more months than the Granit 60, that is to say a total of 18 months, although the casks are similarly aged (two-eight years). The 2012 is riper than I recall on the attack and yet has harder, more brutal tannins on the finish. This is not necessarily a negative observation for a top Cornas.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
M. Paris has now been President of the Syndicat of Cornas Growers for nearly as long as his predecessor, M. Clape. He is now looking for someone to succeed him, as the rigours of the job do not necessarily bestow much by way of reward, notwithstanding reputation of course and perhaps to be seen in the same context as M. Clape is reward enough. His wines certainly merit such acclaim, especially in 2012, which he praises for its harmonious juxtaposition of fruit and ‘matière’.
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Domaine Vincent Paris,
For laying down,
Robert Michel, the doyen of Cornas, will never completely retire and has been actively involved in the hand-over to his talented nephew Vincent Paris. This Cornas wine, as one expects from vines dating from 1911, is complex with dense and sweet fruit in very fine balance with the monolithic structure.
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Domaine de Rochepertuis,
Drink now,
Jean Lionnet took over from his father in 1978 and has been heavily influenced by his friend and neighbour Jean-Luc Colombo in making modern, fruit-driven Cornas. Rochepertuis is his top wine, named after a craggy rock in the vineyards. This is particularly impressive with rich, concentrated black fruit and a classic Cornas structure.
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
£400.00
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
Ready, but will improve,
The Emperor Charlemagne was, apparently, a devotee of the wine from Cornas. Referring to it, for obvious reasons, as vin noir, this example from 100-year-old vines borrows this soubriquet. The resulting wine is suitably saturnine in appearance and then has intense high velocity sweetness in the mouth. Sauvage, herbal with hitherto overwhelming tannins, this is one for the long, longer, longest terms and will eventually come into its own with gibier and/or strong cheese.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Stéphane and Sandrine have built what I think a Valence Estate Agent would describe as a ‘dream house’ in the steep Cornas hillside behind St Peray. An unfeasible amount of glass ensures that the views of the serpentine Rhône are spectacular indeed; let us hope that window taxes have been abolished in this part of the Ardèche. Behind the property lies the eponymous tunnel, a former railway track long since abandoned, but now destined for summer parties and receptions. Stéphane is pleased with his 2011 wines; he praises their aromatic harmony and the quality of the fruit.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Stéphane and Sandrine have built what I think a Valence Estate Agent would describe as a ‘dream house’ in the steep Cornas hillside behind St Peray. An unfeasible amount of glass ensures that the views of the serpentine Rhône are spectacular indeed; let us hope that window taxes have been abolished in this part of the Ardèche. Behind the property lies the eponymous tunnel, a former railway track long since abandoned, but now destined for summer parties and receptions. Stéphane is pleased with his 2011 wines; he praises their aromatic harmony and the quality of the fruit.
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Domaine Du Tunnel,
For laying down,
In the Cornas, 15 parcels have been vinified separately, the age and style of the barrique specifically selected to enhance the character of the plot in question. Many of the plots are full of the older vines, found immediately behind the village. To suggest that top Cornas can be in any way approachable in youth is heresy, but Stéphane comes close with his 2011. The elegance and floral flamboyance of the wine are supported by ripe fruit tannins and plenty of silky, savoury charm.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Stéphane and Sandrine have built what I think a Valence Estate Agent would describe as a ‘dream house’ in the steep Cornas hillside behind St Peray. An unfeasible amount of glass ensures that the views of the serpentine Rhône are spectacular indeed; let us hope that window taxes have been abolished in this part of the Ardèche. Behind the property lies the eponymous tunnel, a former railway track long since abandoned, but now destined for summer parties and receptions. Stéphane is pleased with his 2011 wines; he praises their aromatic harmony and the quality of the fruit.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Stéphane and Sandrine have built what I think a Valence Estate Agent would describe as a ‘dream house’ in the steep Cornas hillside behind St Peray. An unfeasible amount of glass ensures that the views of the serpentine Rhône are spectacular indeed; let us hope that window taxes have been abolished in this part of the Ardèche. Behind the property lies the eponymous tunnel, a former railway track long since abandoned, but now destined for summer parties and receptions. Stéphane is pleased with his 2011 wines; he praises their aromatic harmony and the quality of the fruit.
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Domaine Alain Voge,
For laying down,
The Chailles is sourced from 12 different plots on granitic terraces, mainly above the village itself. After a generous four week maceration, it is aged for sixteen months in cask, the wood generally five or six years old. The wine is tightly sprung, with aromatics of violets, raspberry and bitumen and then a core which is rich, ripe and generously textured.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Alain Voge is one of the doyens of Cornas. He was unwell when I last visited in November, so we all wish him well. His long-standing and highly able partner Albéric de Mazoyer has kept the ship afloat with his customary brilliance and 2012 looks brilliant indeed, especially at the top end of this range. He praises the vintage for its charm and concentration, citing it as a year that is low on yield, high on aromatics and very high on quality.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Alain Voge is one of the doyens of Cornas. He was unwell when I last visited in November, so we all wish him well. His long-standing and highly able partner Albéric de Mazoyer has kept the ship afloat with his customary brilliance and 2012 looks brilliant indeed, especially at the top end of this range. He praises the vintage for its charm and concentration, citing it as a year that is low on yield, high on aromatics and very high on quality.
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Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Relatively new to our list, Domaine Durand is based just south of Mauves in the village of Châteaubourg, their ancient cellar located virtually underneath the ruins of the eponymous castle. The loquacious Joël advises that 2013 was complicated, but ultimately successful, with vines that have reached and passed their 25th year, that is to say the significant majority of those under his ownership, faring especially well. Another beauty, the 2013 Cornas Empreintes comes from slightly older vines and is destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and aged in 20% new barrels. Dark, inky black, it gives up decadent dark fruits, medium to full-bodied concentration and sweet tannin. For a cooler vintage, the texture here is shockingly rich and polished. As with the Prémices, it should drink well on release yet age gracefully.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014