Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The VieillesVignes is made up of 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, the venerable vines in question located on the Crau plateau and some not far from centurion status. Savoury and powerful, this is the masculine partner to the more feminine Mourre des Perdrix, with firm tannins, dark spicy fruits and impressive persistence.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Teamwork is the name of the game chez Maret, with Michel lending expertise to the vinification, Caroline demonstrating aptitude in all matters viticultural, Veronique developing commercial skill and Madame Maret (after whose Christian name I would not presume to enquire) being a very gifted talker. The wines are eloquent too; for Véronique 2011 was not a great year for Syrah. On the other hand Grenache, which dominates the blend, is perceived as a great success, eschewing the dangerously high alcohol levels of the warmer years in favour for something approaching The Golden Mean.

Brothers Vinecent and Pascal Maural own nearly 50 hectares in the appellation, most of which is located in the southern sector. Lauded of late by Robert Parker, inter alia, the brothers modestly maintain that the vines do all the work. Indeed, the Grenache is still aged in tank, with only the Syrah and Mourvède afforded an elevage in oak. These latter two make up nearly 30% of the blend, with small quantities of Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarèse also evidence.

The 2011 is a classic Chateauneuf, with a dense colour and welcoming warming aromatics, Autumnal and redolent of long post-prandial walks in misty woodland. The palate adds savoury notes, with licorice, tapenade and Provencal herbs feeding the imagination.  

Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

The blend is dominated by Grenache (75 percent) with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support and finally a very small amount of Cinsault. Eighty percent of the grapes are destemmed, and then aged, mainly in foudres, for 18 months, yielding a powerful and yet wonderfully silky wine, its aromas hitherto dominated by cassis and blackberry, with an intense mouth-feel and impressive spicy length.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. The 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape should be outstanding. Possessing a rocking purple color, it has classic black raspberry, toasted bread, licorice and spice aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a supple, elegant style. There’s good concentration here and it makes the most of the vintage.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

A traditional blend for the traditional cuvée, or if you prefer a classic blend for the classic cuvée; the blend here is 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, with the ageing shared between tank and foudre. The relatively high percentage of Syrah adds focus and tone, with ripe black cherry and cassis evidenced alongside herbal descriptors picked from the kitchen garden.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Marie Giraud had deserved the recent flood of plaudits from the great and the good, including one rather influential commentator. With initial guidance from another larger than life character, oenologist Philippe Cambie, she has adopted a biodynamic approach across 18 hectares of vines, most of which are located to the east of the commune. In the early days I was anxious that extraction was concealing fruit quality; this is no longer the case.

Older vine Grenache, which makes up 70% of the blend, holds the key here. The balance is shared between Syrah and Mourvèdre. Didier is pragmatic when it comes to élevage, using a combination of demi-muid, barrique and (mostly) foudre to match the specific requirements of the vintage. Accomplished and long, with plush fruit in the middle, this is an outstanding Prestige.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Didier Negron places 2012 between 2010 and 2011 stylistically, praising its structure and finesse. A little rain in August was helpful for the grapes, ensuring equilibrium, with both yields and pH levels lower than normal.  There are four red wines, the first three selected primarily on perceived merit and the final, Le Secret, more site-specific and made in very small volumes.

The blend of the Tradition is 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre; the vines are located on seven different parcels, mainly located to the east of the appellation, both north and south of the winery in Couthezon. The 2012 is an outstanding effort, its nose of forest floor, cassis and tapenade followed by a juicy and forward mid-palate, infused with herbs and an alchemical dose of the famous Sabon savoir faire.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Brother and sister tam of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon have taken Janasse into the pantheon of greats, seemingly by not doing very much at all, their policy of minimum intervention and organic viticulture deemed the be the key to their success. Behind this seeming inactivity, there is constant work and refinement however, with subtle changes allowing them to hone in on perfection with great skill. 2012 appeals to them; it is more rounded than 2010 and more powerful than 2011; the best of all possible outcomes in other words.

In the 19th century, 50 percent of La Nerthe’s wine was white and today this has clearly not been forgotten. Aromatics from Clairette and Bourboulenc add freshness and an ethereal harmony to the honeyed texture of the Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. The tropical, almost exotic notes are tempered by white flowers and grapefruit, which in turn are harmoniously balanced by honey and butterscotch. 
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer

No fewer than 64 parcels are behind this cuvée which is made from 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Fleshy, sweet and generous, with hints of the garrigue and roasted herbs which underline its provenance, this wine is well named, its ageing shared between tank and foudre and its potential vast.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Marie Giraud is quite business-like these days, and when asked about the vintage, she advises that it has more tension than 2007, less alcohol and concentration than 2010 and ultimately resembles 2009, which also had very small thick-skinned grapes. So there we are. Of course, 2009 was one of her most successful and applauded vintages… thankfully.

There is 10 percent each of Cinsault and Syrah in this cuvée; the wine is charming and subtle with floral aromatics and hints of lavender and a Provençal marketplace.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Here, 15 percent of oak-aged Cinsault, of old-vine pedigree, is blended relatively late in the process with mid-plateau Grenache, the latter adding a fleshy generous mid-palate, the former a beguiling herbal framework. Energetic and balletic, the wine boasts impressive concentration and real finesse on the finish.
Drink 2018-2022.

The well-named Prestige has been aged in both foudre and demi-muid. Again, it is a triumph of purity and concentration. More than 95% of the blend is made from old-Grenache to which has been added Syrah and Mourvèdre, although Didier advises that there are also small amounts of both Counoise and Vaccarese. Black fruits and tapenade dominate the palate, with hints of tobacco, graphite and licorice underlining latent complexity.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key.  Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year.

Monsieur Maret père has indeed retired now that the domaine has reached its centenary, handing over to his two very capable daughters Véronique and Caroline though without a doubt maintaining a close eye on proceedings.

They own all but a tiny plot of the prettily named vineyard Mourre des Perdrix (‘partridge mound’, or perhaps ‘knoll’) and the 2012 reveals itself to be a wonderfully silky, almost pinot-like, wine yet with a firm structure underlying to ensure it lasting and improving for some good few years. The domaine employs, with great care, a higher proportion of Grenache than some and with careful management this lends the wine its supple, graceful elegance. We were all very taken with it when some of the team tasted there mid-February.

The relative shift in the balance of power from Grenache to Syrah and Mourvèdre has resulted in a 2013 that is darkly coloured, rich and softly spicy. The trademark Nerthe polish is by no means absent, but there is perhaps a little more black fruit than sometimes, and a more authoritative finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

The final blend this year will be 44% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, the Syrah now nearly achieving parity with the Grenache and in terms of taste profile it’s certainly just as influential. Maturation has been 63% in barrel, 37% in foudre and the wine rejoices in classic ripeness and purity, aromatic and subtle intensity. An archetype from the modern end of the spectrum.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Christian Voeux, with decades of experience at Mont Redon, is now really getting into his stride at the la Nerthe, probably the only property in the village which deserves its ‘château’ prefix. He describes 2012 as a Burgundian vintage, its hallmarks he cites as finesse with latent power. Both Cadettes and Beauvenir have been made this year, in itself a telling sign.. The low yields have engendered concentration and the growing season has favoured Syrah, which is a larger than usual shareholder in the blends. The putative Nerthe share price is rising all the time, it seems.

One can be sure of two things when analysing the two properties named Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape; firstly that one will not encounter anyone named Raymond Usseglio at the domaine named Raymond Usseglio or anyone named Pierre Usseglio at the domaine named Pierre Usseglio. Secondly, and more importantly, that both properties now make outstanding wine. As it happens, 2012 is one of the most eloquent illustrations of this statement that one would wish to find.

Pure indulgence, this 100 percent Roussanne has been fermented and aged in 100 percent new French barrel, but wears its oaky livery exceptionally lightly. Honeycomb, nectarine and poached pear are evidenced, with a spicy twist on the finish.

The Vieilles Vignes is made up of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre, matured in a ratio of 70/30 in cement and demi-muid for 14 months. The ancient vines are mainly located on the Crau plateau. Evocative aromas of scrubland and laurel are followed by an intense and finely structured palate in this, the most powerful member of the Charbonnière clan.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Last year – 2013 – was an auspicious year for the likeable Maret family, as they celebrated their centenary. In 2013 Monsieur Maret went into formal retirement although he was far from absent during my tastings! Meanwhile his daughters Véronique and Caroline have been especially successful with their first full vinification: in 2012 they had fewer of the Grenache ‘coulure’  issues which have been evident in both 2011 and, to a lesser extent, in 2013

Our 2012 Rhône Vintage Recommendation: Favourite Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Black, full-bodied fruit, this is a bit closed on the nose. The 40 percent Syrah dominates on the palate, which is dark, rich and seductive with a touch of spice and plenty of concentrated fruit. With lots of soft, ripe tannins on the finish, this is a big wine with a great future.
Chris Pollington, Private Account Manager

Distinctive pebbly soils in the north of the appellation host this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah….without the 2% of Counoise of 2011, apparently, not that this makes a discernible difference.  Véronique views 2012 as an excellent year for Syrah and it is the polished elegance of the Syrah which really marks out this cuvée, with black fruit, plush, herbal elegance and supple ripe tannins.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

Last year – 2013 – was an auspicious year for the likeable Maret family, as they celebrated their centenary. In 2013 Monsieur Maret went into formal retirement although he was far from absent during my tastings! Meanwhile his daughters Véronique and Caroline have been especially successful with their first full vinification: in 2012 they had fewer of the Grenache ‘coulure’  issues which have been evident in both 2011 and, to a lesser extent, in 2013

Parsimonious yields of 19 hectolitres per hectare have resulted in the decision not to make the famous Vieilles Vignes cuvée this year; a shame maybe, but all to the benefit of the generic wine, which was one of my favourites of a week spent in the southern vineyards in November of last year. Sophie compares the style here to elegant examples made decades ago; deceptively powerful wines, rustic and silky at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

I hope I am not betraying confidence by revealing that in a recent conversation, the celebrated Rhône expert John Livingstone- Learmonth confessed to me that Marcoux was one of his very favourite estates in the region. It is hard to disagree, such is the attention to detail adopted by sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier. Sophie compares 2013 to 1988 and 1989, relatively late and distinguished by discreet complexity and great finesse. It’s great to see how these qualities have also been captured on the other side of the river in Lirac. I suspect the only Châteauneuf du Pape made in the vintage (it was the only one presented), the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape is a fresh, lively and peppery effort that has a medium-bodied, nicely focused, pure and elegant style. Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and splash of Cinsault, it should drink nicely on release and evolve gracefully through 2022.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Sandy soils in the eponymous and nicely named lieu-dit are at the root of this excellent example, the blend being Grenache (60 percent) and 20 percent each of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Kirsch and loganberry make for welcoming aromatics and the palate is silky and long. Distinctive and distinctly feminine, this cuvée provides a most eloquent counter-blast to those who decry the philosophy of multiple blends.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Charbonnière is usually the first visit of our November week in the south and always proves a worthy barometer of the styles to be encountered thereafter-notwithstanding the rigours of tasting Châteauneuf-du-Pape at half past eight in the morning. Véronique now seems to be very much in charge, although this is clearly still a family affair, with a smart new tasting room further enhancing the welcome. The paucity of Grenache in 2013 is viewed with stoicism, its downside principally related to commercial shortage, rather than to the quality of the resulting wines, which are generally very impressive. A blend of 65% Grenache, 18% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah and the rest a mix of varieties, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix has a savory style in its dried earth, spice and kirsch-filled bouquet. Coming mostly from sandy soils and aged in a combination of tronconique tank and demi-muid, it’s medium-bodied, silky and nicely textured, with that fine-grained quality to its tannin that only comes from sandy soils. This beautiful 2013 will drink nicely on release and evolve for over a decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue##215 Oct 2014

Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the Crau and Gallimardes in the south, in other words a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 70 percent Grenache, 15 percent Mourvèdre, 12 percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault – that is to say with a shade less Grenache than sometimes. The wine has classic aromas of thyme, sousbois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate where heathery notes are tempered by peat and incense, then soft mandarin gilded by verbena and lavender – and then one is likely to get carried away with superlatives.
Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer