Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Sophie and Catherine were, unsurprisingly, amongst the first of a growing band of brothers (and sisters) to plant over the river in the slightly undervalued appellation of Lirac. Minute geological differences have a big effect on Grenache especially, which can result in wines, such as this, that are richly robust, wonderfully dark of fruit, yet approachable by way of temperament. Well worth the detour. Drink 2018-2023. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

Made with 100 percent Grenache from the sandy soils just to the north of the Crau plateau, Saumades is an elegant, almost feminine wine, with a floral charm on the nose and a pleasing purity of hedgerow fruit on the palate. The 2015 vintage was warm but not overwhelmingly hot, as evidenced by the depth of colour in this wine - episcopal and almost luminous; by the generous aromas of blueberry, forest floor and thyme; and by an impressive texture in the mouth, which marries firm, yet silky tannins and a fulsome, seductive core of fruit. It is a near-neighbour, both stylistically and geographically, to Château Rayas. Drink now to 2025.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

La Nerthe has always majored on the fruity side of the Châteauneuf profile. Sometimes, given the venerable vines in situ and the almost perfect cellars, I have hoped for a little more “authenticity” here. Ralph may have previously been making wine for Jaboulet in the North, but this is his most clearly articulated aspiration. One should rejoice in Grenache and garland it in the inevitable complexity offered by the famous palette of varietals, without losing sight of the essential features that elevated the appellation in the first place. The savoury, pleasantly herbal personality of the 2015, sitting perfectly within a dark fruit core, provides a most encouraging expression of this mission statement. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

Isabel certainly has a penchant for making several cuvées, understandably, given the diversity of the terroir at her disposal. It is, however, reassuring that her “entry-level” wine is so good. It brings to mind the aromas of a Provençal market place without the noise. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The growing stature of Isabel Ferrando in this large village is bolstered by increasing international accolades, and, maybe even more importantly, by the generosity of the commentaries of her peers. Isabel Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandi is fairly traditional with no de-stemming, cement-tank maturation and a taste for délestage (rack and return). Her outlook and temperament, however, fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées, all, thankfully pleasingly different from each other.

Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

One of the few CDNP estates to use all permitted varieties, this served Vincent well in 2013 where Mourvèdre and Syrah came to the rescue of a less productive Grenache. It comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent of other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on). I tasted through a numbers of foudres of different coopers and age which had already seen six months élevage and will see another six months ageing before bottling. Upon tasting an assemblage of all those foudres it became obvious that the higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm black berries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouth feel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like silky quality to the tannins.
Fine Wine Team The Papal indulgence in 2013 comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on) The higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm blackberries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely, mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouthfeel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like, silky quality to the tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Clos des Papes is now the address in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – indeed, many would contend in the whole Rhône Valley. The great work started by Paul Avril has now been continued by his son Vincent, one of the most widely-travelled, generous and gifted vignerons in France. The multiplicity of sites, allied to the minute yields (13.5 hectolitres per hectare is hardly commercially viable) have ensured that in 2013 the difficult conditions, especially for the Grenache, have been circumnavigated. In a year when Mourvèdre was on occasion harvested before Grenache, it comes as no surprise that the former takes up a higher percentage of the wine than usual-30 percent Mourvèdre compared to 55 percent Grenache, the latter of which usually accounts for 60 percent or more. The harvest was eventually finished on 18th October and Vincent compares it to 2004 and 2011, the earlier year drinking exquisitely now, the more recent one still far too young to appreciate fully but not lacking in potential. Vincent’s wines are symphonic in scope but precise in detail.

Parsimonious yields of 19 hectolitres per hectare have resulted in the decision not to make the famous Vieilles Vignes cuvée this year; a shame maybe, but all to the benefit of the generic wine, which was one of my favourites of a week spent in the southern vineyards in November of last year. Sophie compares the style here to elegant examples made decades ago; deceptively powerful wines, rustic and silky at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

I hope I am not betraying confidence by revealing that in a recent conversation, the celebrated Rhône expert John Livingstone- Learmonth confessed to me that Marcoux was one of his very favourite estates in the region. It is hard to disagree, such is the attention to detail adopted by sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier. Sophie compares 2013 to 1988 and 1989, relatively late and distinguished by discreet complexity and great finesse. It’s great to see how these qualities have also been captured on the other side of the river in Lirac.


I suspect the only Châteauneuf du Pape made in the vintage (it was the only one presented), the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape is a fresh, lively and peppery effort that has a medium-bodied, nicely focused, pure and elegant style. Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and splash of Cinsault, it should drink nicely on release and evolve gracefully through 2022.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Bin end – limited quantities at a discounted price.

The juxtaposition of old concrete fermentation tanks and new maturation barriques, underlines the Delorme philosophy and its apparently contradictory approach to intervention. Be that as it may, it certainly seems to work. The 2011 is a dense, powerfully authoritative wine, with ripeness and quality seeping out of its every pore. Its texture is informed, but not dominated by the oak, and both major and minor keys are evidenced in the integration of the tannins.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Christophe and Fabrice Delorme did not take long to project this fine estate, named somewhat poetically after a woodcock, into the first division. Based in Tavel, theoretically rather unhelpfully as most activity takes place over on the other side of the Rhône river, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious Rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape which combines the best virtues of modernity and tradition. 2011 was especially successful for them; they attribute the high natural sugar levels to biodynamic viticulture. 

The angels’ share in this particular instance is made up of 70% Mourvèdre (with 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah), aged in barrique and suitably precocious, with dark spicy fruit,  all black cherry, myrtle and cassis, fine balancing acidity and an impressive crescendo on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

One can be sure of two things when analysing the  two properties named Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape; firstly that one will not encounter any one named Raimond Usseglio at the Domaine named Raimond Usseglio or anyone named Pierre Usseglio at the Domaine named Pierre Usseglio. Secondly, and more importantly, that both properties now make outstanding wine. As it happens, 2012 is one of the most eloquent illustrations of this statement that one would wish to fine.

On the stony plateau of Le Crau, these old Grenache vines were planted in 1912 and are farmed organically. The grapes are late to ripen, the vines being relatively high and exposed to the elements. Patience is rewarded by an outstanding expression of Grenache: silky, rich and exceptionally elegant, its tannins already beautifully integrated, its finish both enduring and endearing.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. What could be one of the wines of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin, which was harvested October 6-7, has beautiful depth and concentration to go with notes of blackberry, spring flowers, licorice and peppery herbs. Due to the horrible yields for Grenache, production here is down 35%. It should drink nicely on release and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Made from vines that date from 1902, 90 percent of which Stéphane knows to be Grenache and 10 percent he’s a little less sure about, the Impériale is an extremely impressive achievement that is aged for over 18 months before release. The most striking quality of this wine, given that concentration is axiomatic from such a producer in such a year, is the length on the palate, which is simply astonishing. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

Stéphane’s vineyards are equally divided between the galet-strewn parcels around Orange and Courthézon and the sandier, chalkier soils heading south towards the Crau plateau and the village of Bédarrides. The emphasis on traditional winemaking is now embroidered with new ideas, a little new oak and laudable ambition; the ensemble is getting better and better each year, yet still constitutes excellent value. Now seen as every bit as good as his distant cousins at Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Stéphane is embracing biodynamic viticulture in his unceasing efforts to excel.

The 2015 is a classic blend of 65 percent Grenache, 15 percent of both Mourvèdre and Syrah, plus five percent of a somewhat anonymous combination from the remainder of the appellation’s generous palette. It is immediately charming, with a perfume of garrigue and laurel, forest floor and eastern spice. The palate underlines the generosity of the vintage, with a lively black fruit charisma held in check by balancing natural acidity and ripe yet finely etched tannins. Symphonic in scope and ageing potential, this is an outstanding Vieux Télégraphe in every way and will sit proudly with all of its most prestigious forbears. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW- Wine Buyer

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, while the rest is made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, plus a tiny bit of Cinsault. The Bruniers also run a radically different property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, named Piedlong, and a very attractive property in the hills of Gigondas, Domaine les Pallières.

Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south... in other words, this has a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. The wine displays classic aromas of thyme, sous-bois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate, which is long and unnervingly complex. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

A typically full, concentrated Chteau Beaucastel which possesses a high percentage of Mouvdre; the variety's sweet, purple fruit characteristics balances the liquorice and spicey flavours of this thick, chewy wine. It is just emerging from its shell, and will continue to drink for another 15 years or more.

Pretty pudding stones adorn the Croix de Boix in the southern sector, with red clay beneath and a little sand. This cuvée is 100% Grenache, yet captures some of the silky purity of its northern siblings, its additional herbal weight worn lightly, pellucid and posed on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Surely the most lauded vinous portfolio in the Rhône, the Parcellaires make up a definitive statement of terroir, the majority of which is located in the tiny appellation of Hermitage. Volumes are appropriately modest.

Chaupin’s calling card resides in the fact that its plots, albeit diverse (Chapouin and Janasse in the north, Le Crau in the South) are all predominantly sandy. Its 100 percent Grenache therefore invites comparison with Rayas… and a favourable comparison, one is inclined to think. Its charming feminine nose marries black fruit and violets, while the conjugal rights are sealed by a luxuriant, softly eloquent palate which lingers on the finish and in the memory. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

Careless of the apparent vagaries of the vintage, Vincent Avril has produced an outstanding wine in 2014. Despite the virtual exclusion of the troubled Syrah, the wine has a warm and welcoming colour and a typically generous Papes nose of kirsch, Morello cherry, lavender and forest floor.

This generosity pursues us all the very to the very long finish, its most engaging characteristics being the harmony of sweet fruit and savoury tannins and the weight in the mouth which marries Burgundian poise with Mediterranean warmth. An exceptional piece of work, the final blend of which is 50% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, the balance shared principally between Counoise and Vaccarèse.
Drink 2017-2025+
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer