Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.

A longer maceration, but with less pumping over; Christophe’s philosophy has paid dividends with a wine which is long and pleasingly aromatic with graphite, blueberry liqueur and crushed rock all in evidence. The wine is dense yet pure; its sweet fruit beautifully integrated in deference to the now much imitated house style.
Simon Field MW - Rhone Buyer

Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as atypical, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteuneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’.

On the stony plateau of Le Crau, these old Grenache vines were planted in 1912 and are farmed organically. The grapes are late to ripen, the vines being relatively high and exposed to the elements. Patience is rewarded by an outstanding expression of Grenache: silky, rich and exceptionally elegant, its tannins already beautifully integrated, its finish both enduring and endearing.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. What could be one of the wines of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin, which was harvested October 6-7, has beautiful depth and concentration to go with notes of blackberry, spring flowers, licorice and peppery herbs. Due to the horrible yields for Grenache, production here is down 35%. It should drink nicely on release and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

The Piedlong enclave is close to Château Rayas and is dominated by sandy soils. Stéphane’s vines here are mainly Grenache and all are over 100 years old. Maturation in cement allied to the addition of 40 percent stems ensure an authenticity and the communication of a real sense of place-and what a place it is. In a year where some Grenache suffered this is a stunning performance, all sweetness and light, despite the high level of alcohol.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000.

Another brilliant effort, in what is without a doubt a difficult vintage (especially for Grenache), the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale is 90% Grenache (the rest is a mix of varieties) and comes from the sandy soils of the Piallon and Girardette lieux-dits. Partially destemmed and aged all in concrete tank, it’s a brilliant expression of Grenache and has medium to full-bodied richness, lively acidity and perfumed purple fruits, violets, pepper and spice aromas and flavors. While a number of Grenache cuvees in the vintage have rustic, astringent tannin, there are no such issues here. This beauty has solid mid-palate depth, sweet tannin and superb length. It should be relatively accessible in it’s youth, yet have 15 years or more of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south... in other words, this has a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Mourvèdre, seven percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault. The wine displays classic aromas of thyme, sous-bois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate, which is long and unnervingly complex. Drink 2020-2028. 
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, maybe modifying their techniques a little along the way, but not too much. Biodynamic in all but the letter, they are based close to Beaucastel, but their plots, albeit more modest in total surface area, are more widely spaced over the appellation, with the most significant holdings in the areas around Courthézon and on the central Crau plateau. Low yields are key to the exceptional quality of the wines.

From the Bédarrides commune in the south-east of the appellation, Croix de Bois is a monovarietal Grenache, and one which is seemingly careless of some of the problems which beset that varietal in 2013. Reserved at the moment than the wine has plenty of matière, spice and poised tannin, ensuring that its evolution will be fascinating to follow.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


In the same ballpark, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois has a softer, more upfront and textured feel then the Barbe Rac, which always seems to me to be slightly more serious and focused. Giving up loads of jammy blackberry and assorted darker fruits, licorice, and wild herbs, this full-bodied, ripe and layered effort makes the most of the vintage. It will drink nicely on release and dish out plenty of pleasure through 2023.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Careless of the apparent vagaries of the vintage, Vincent Avril has produced an outstanding wine in 2014. Despite the virtual exclusion of the troubled Syrah, the wine has a warm and welcoming colour and a typically generous Papes nose of kirsch, Morello cherry, lavender and forest floor.

This generosity pursues us all the very to the very long finish, its most engaging characteristics being the harmony of sweet fruit and savoury tannins and the weight in the mouth which marries Burgundian poise with Mediterranean warmth. An exceptional piece of work, the final blend of which is 50% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, the balance shared principally between Counoise and Vaccarèse.
Drink 2017-2025+
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer

Made from 100 percent Grenache in the pebbly vineyards in the south-east corner of the appellation, some of its vines over 100 years old, and aged for 16 months in large old wooden vats, this is a hugely successful Barbe Rac, its aromas of Provençal herbs and crushed raspberry imparting Mediterranean warmth and old-vine grip. Of the two top Châteauneuf parcels, this one is the more generous in terms of its fruit profile. 
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

In the late autumn of 2014 I was lucky enough to blind-taste a range of red Hermitage wines with John Livingstone- Learmonth and Andew Jefford. I have yet to see the final article, yet it emerged that my top two wines were both Chapoutier Parcellaires. This is a truly outstanding range, as indeed one would hope it to be, given the historical reputation of the hill of Hermitage and the fact that Chapoutier are in the enviable position of owning more of its vines than anyone else. A great responsibility, which they discharge with consummate skill.


What should be up with the crème of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac is smoking stuff. Made from 100% Grenache and coming from less than a half-ton per acre (which is just about nothing), it sports a deep purple color to go with fabulous strawberry, blackberry, dried garrigue, cured meats and earth. About as seamless and elegant as they come in the vintage, it has medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannin and beautiful length. It should be reasonably approachable on release, and evolve for over a decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014

Ancient vines and low yields mark out this famous cuvée, with Mourvèdre marginally in the ascendancy this year over Grenache. The masculine partner to the enigmatic Auguste Favier, Charles Giraud is named after Isabel’s maternal grandfather, and marries dark-fruit power and spicy, savoury tannins.

Painfully low yields have ensured that the wine’s famously concentrated style has not been sacrificed – and as a result the wine will repay a little cellaring.
Drink 2019-2024.

One hundred percent old-vine Grenache, Mon Aieul is an old-vine power-house, its 15 degrees of alcohol  worn relatively lightly, its purity and power entirely as a result of the quality of the fruit, as there is no oak in its up-bringing; one for the longer term, this will strut and fret for a few years before a most poignant maturity.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer

The Usseglio scions in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are nothing if not complicated; the names of both Domaines allude to the second generation but it is now the third generation in charge, in this case Thierry and Jean-Pierre….the wines, thankfully, are easy to understand; traditional of persuasion, the property describes itself as a ‘Maison de Grenache’ a house which is attempting to make wines that are as silky as they are robust.

A classy effort that could be up with the big boys of the vintage, the inky colored 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes (42% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 21% Mourvedre) has ample black raspberry and cassis fruit intermixed with licorice, toasted bread, charcoal and background meatiness. While this cuvée sees aging in new French oak barrels, its larger portions of Syrah and Mourvedre soak up any trace of oak in its first few years of life. It’s also worth remembering that while 2013 was difficult for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre both did well. This medium to full-bodied beauty has fabulous purity of fruit, noticeable, yet ripe, tannin and solid length. It should round into form nicely with short-term cellaring and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014 The Cadettes is unusual this year in that there is more Syrah than Grenache in the blend. The wine is appropriately dense with big colour and firm tannins; black fruit with hints of forest floor and even peat complete the picture. Southern warmth meets northern class, and they get on very nicely indeed.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED.

One of the most successfully modern manifestations of the potential of this great village, Cuvée des Cadettes is not made every year, but in 2015 it was felt that the ripe and generous fruit would be well suited to new oak. And so it has proved. Architecturally robust, elegantly decorated, this is a powerhouse that will repay lengthy cellaring. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer

The grandest of all the properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the one closest to actually having a castle, La Nerthe is a virtually contiguous vineyard, with 90 hectares of calcareous and sandy soils located just to the east of the village. With each new vintage they enhance their reputation as one of the leading “classically modern” estates in the region.

The masculine partner to the enigmatic Auguste Favier, Charles Giraud is named after Isabelle’s maternal grandfather. 38% of Mourvèdre adds dark-fruit power and spicy, savoury tannins; something of night perhaps, but a very balmy summer’s night with clear skies.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

This is yet another Châteauneuf-du-Pape A-lister found on our list… were will it all end? Isabel  Ferrando’s vines are mainly located in the southern sector; her modus operandus is fairly traditional with no destemming, cement tank maturation and a taste for delestage. Her out-look and temperament, however,  fall into the more modern camp, as manifested by the multiplicity of differing cuvées, all, thankfully pleasingly different form each other.

One of the few CDNP estates to use all permitted varieties, this served Vincent well in 2013 where Mourvèdre and Syrah came to the rescue of a less productive Grenache. It comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent of other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on). I tasted through a numbers of foudres of different coopers and age which had already seen six months élevage and will see another six months ageing before bottling. Upon tasting an assemblage of all those foudres it became obvious that the higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm black berries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouth feel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like silky quality to the tannins.
Fine Wine Team The Papal indulgence in 2013 comprises 55 percent Grenache, 30 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and five percent other varieties (Counoise, Vaccarèse and so on) The higher presence of Mourvèdre is positively felt on the nose with firm blackberries mingling with small, black olive notes, and lovely, mixed spices on the back palate. A beautifully hedonistic wine which might not have the power of past vintages but which, at 14.8 percent, is certainly not fragile or lacking in mouthfeel and body. The Grenache has managed to make a most valuable contribution, adding freshness and a Pinot-like, silky quality to the tannins.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Clos des Papes is now the address in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – indeed, many would contend in the whole Rhône Valley. The great work started by Paul Avril has now been continued by his son Vincent, one of the most widely-travelled, generous and gifted vignerons in France. The multiplicity of sites, allied to the minute yields (13.5 hectolitres per hectare is hardly commercially viable) have ensured that in 2013 the difficult conditions, especially for the Grenache, have been circumnavigated. In a year when Mourvèdre was on occasion harvested before Grenache, it comes as no surprise that the former takes up a higher percentage of the wine than usual-30 percent Mourvèdre compared to 55 percent Grenache, the latter of which usually accounts for 60 percent or more. The harvest was eventually finished on 18th October and Vincent compares it to 2004 and 2011, the earlier year drinking exquisitely now, the more recent one still far too young to appreciate fully but not lacking in potential. Vincent’s wines are symphonic in scope but precise in detail.

One of the greatest wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, its secret is hard to unlock, its quality residing in a harmonious and complete structural integrity that is evident even at this early stage. Old vines from two parcels in the Courthezon commune shoulder the responsibility for this master-piece, one of our favourites this year.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key.  Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year.

Two small parcels in the eastern Courthézon sector do the honours here. Only one barrel is produced and the dominant component is Grenache, although Didier is not sure quite how dominant it actually is, let’s say more than 90 percent. The wine has an acrobatic tension between the acidity and the tannins, and the finish is long. The wine defies the apparent difficulties associated with Grenache in this year.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer

Didier Negron makes a style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape which is both glossy and immediately appealing, while at the same time maintaining the herbal complexity and garrigue charm for which the appellation is justly celebrated. How he achieves this is, as his top wine confirms, something of a secret. He describes 2013 as ‘heterogeneous’; he predicts that the wines will be appreciated for their relative delicacy and their elegant structure. There is nothing particularly profound in such observationsthe real profundity resides in the wines themselves which are uniformly excellent. One of the few special cuvees produced in the vintage, Sabon’s Grenache-dominated 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon is a perfumed, elegant effort that has impressive aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness, plenty of depth and high, yet sweet, tannin that emerges on the finish. I was shocked to see this level of quality out of a Grenache-driven cuvee in 2013. It should have an easy 15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014