Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The largest and most important appellation in the southern Rhône, with more than 3,200 hectares of vineyards and over 80 growers, Châteauneuf-du-Pape produces more wine than the whole of the northern Rhône combined. The gloriously rich red wines, redolent of the heat and herbs of the south, are enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several of the 14 permitted grape varieties including Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.
Learn more about Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the largest and most important wine appellation in the southern Rhône. It is home to more than 3,200 hectares of vineyards and over 80 growers; more wine is produced in Châteauneuf than the whole of the northern Rhône put together. The vineyards are bounded to the west by the Rhône river and to the east by the A7 autoroute.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first ever Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée established in France, in 1932. Small, rounded rocks from the ancient river bed known as galets roulés are a key aspect of what makes Châteauneuf -du-Pape wines so distinctive, with the rocks reflecting heat back into the vines at night, thus increasing ripeness and reducing acidity.
The gloriously rich red wines, redolent of the heat and herbs of the south, are enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several grape varieties. Fourteen are permitted for reds: Grenache, Mouvedre, Syrah, Cinsault, Vaccarese, Counoise, Teret Noir, Muscadin, Picpoul Noir, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Picpoul Gris and Picardin. With red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache typically dominates with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support.
White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is becoming increasingly sought-after, even though it represents less than 10 percent of the total production. Here, five grapes are permitted: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Picardin.
Recommended Producers: Château de Beaucastel, Clos de Papes, Vieux Télégraphe, Château Rayas,, Domaine de la Charbonnière, Sabon, Château La Nerthe, Domaine Perrin
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£32.00
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£345.60
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Domaine de la Charbonniere,
Ready, but will improve,
The VieillesVignes is made up of 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, the venerable vines in question located on the Crau plateau and some not far from centurion status. Savoury and powerful, this is the masculine partner to the more feminine Mourre des Perdrix, with firm tannins, dark spicy fruits and impressive persistence.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Teamwork is the name of the game chez Maret, with Michel lending expertise to the vinification, Caroline demonstrating aptitude in all matters viticultural, Veronique developing commercial skill and Madame Maret (after whose Christian name I would not presume to enquire) being a very gifted talker. The wines are eloquent too; for Véronique 2011 was not a great year for Syrah. On the other hand Grenache, which dominates the blend, is perceived as a great success, eschewing the dangerously high alcohol levels of the warmer years in favour for something approaching The Golden Mean.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Teamwork is the name of the game chez Maret, with Michel lending expertise to the vinification, Caroline demonstrating aptitude in all matters viticultural, Veronique developing commercial skill and Madame Maret (after whose Christian name I would not presume to enquire) being a very gifted talker. The wines are eloquent too; for Véronique 2011 was not a great year for Syrah. On the other hand Grenache, which dominates the blend, is perceived as a great success, eschewing the dangerously high alcohol levels of the warmer years in favour for something approaching The Golden Mean.
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£140.34
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£164.00
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Domaine de la Janasse,
For laying down,
Sourced diversely over the north of the appellation, the wine’s final blend is classic beyond peradventure (65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Mourvèdre and five percent Cinsault) and looks set to be an exceptional domaine cuvée, with 80 percent de-stemmed and 80 percent vat-aged grapes. Its high-toned fruit aromas sit more than comfortably with intimations of garrigue and Asian spices. The palate is dominated by blackcurrant and cassis…a silky symphony in a bright key. Drink 2020-2028.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
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£199.50
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£153.24
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Domaine de la Janasse,
Ready, but will improve,
The blend is dominated by Grenache (75 percent) with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support and finally a very small amount of Cinsault. Eighty percent of the grapes are destemmed, and then aged, mainly in foudres, for 18 months, yielding a powerful and yet wonderfully silky wine, its aromas hitherto dominated by cassis and blackberry, with an intense mouth-feel and impressive spicy length.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. The 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape should be outstanding. Possessing a rocking purple color, it has classic black raspberry, toasted bread, licorice and spice aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a supple, elegant style. There’s good concentration here and it makes the most of the vintage.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. The 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape should be outstanding. Possessing a rocking purple color, it has classic black raspberry, toasted bread, licorice and spice aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a supple, elegant style. There’s good concentration here and it makes the most of the vintage.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£399.00
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Domaine Giraud,
Ready, but will keep,
A traditional blend for the traditional cuvée, or if you prefer a classic blend for the classic cuvée; the blend here is 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, with the ageing shared between tank and foudre. The relatively high percentage of Syrah adds focus and tone, with ripe black cherry and cassis evidenced alongside herbal descriptors picked from the kitchen garden.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Marie Giraud had deserved the recent flood of plaudits from the great and the good, including one rather influential commentator. With initial guidance from another larger than life character, oenologist Philippe Cambie, she has adopted a biodynamic approach across 18 hectares of vines, most of which are located to the east of the commune. In the early days I was anxious that extraction was concealing fruit quality; this is no longer the case.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Marie Giraud had deserved the recent flood of plaudits from the great and the good, including one rather influential commentator. With initial guidance from another larger than life character, oenologist Philippe Cambie, she has adopted a biodynamic approach across 18 hectares of vines, most of which are located to the east of the commune. In the early days I was anxious that extraction was concealing fruit quality; this is no longer the case.
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Domaine Saint Prefert,
For laying down,
There is 10 percent each of Cinsault and Syrah in this cuvée; the wine is charming and subtle with floral aromatics and hints of lavender and a Provençal marketplace.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Isabelle Ferrando is fortunate in that her proclivity for self-publicity chimes very well with the good general publicity that she has been receiving of late from respected international commentators. She is open about the difficulties of 2013, but pleased with the overall results, which required even more patience than usual, with October taking up the redemptive role traditionally reserved for September. The quality of her wines is underwritten by the fact that each individual cuvée is demonstrably different, and that with her Clairette she has made one of the greatest white wines in the region. More Burgundian in style, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier (70% Grenache and Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre) has bright acidity in its medium-bodied, nicely concentrated frame. Giving up notions of spring flowers, cassis, forest floor and toasted spice, it should benefit from short-term cellaring.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Domaine Saint Prefert,
Ready, but will improve,
Here, 15 percent of oak-aged Cinsault, of old-vine pedigree, is blended relatively late in the process with mid-plateau Grenache, the latter adding a fleshy generous mid-palate, the former a beguiling herbal framework. Energetic and balletic, the wine boasts impressive concentration and real finesse on the finish.
Drink 2018-2022.
Drink 2018-2022.
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Domaine Roger Sabon,
Ready, but will keep,
The well-named Prestige has been aged in both foudre and demi-muid. Again, it is a triumph of purity and concentration. More than 95% of the blend is made from old-Grenache to which has been added Syrah and Mourvèdre, although Didier advises that there are also small amounts of both Counoise and Vaccarese. Black fruits and tapenade dominate the palate, with hints of tobacco, graphite and licorice underlining latent complexity.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key. Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year. Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 27%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
The loquacious Didier Negron recognises that Grenache was plentiful in 2011, unlike the coulure-blighted 2010, but that it had to be treated with care. The juxtaposition of an impressive early flowering and a cool but dry mid-season has engendered a heterogeneous crop, rather like 2007, but in a minor key. Didier’s clever manipulation of differing sizes of container in order to undermine the oxidative nature of Grenache, has ensured the purity and definition of his wines. He is proving a most worthy successor to the great Jean-Jacques Sabon, his father-in-law, who died last year. Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 27%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
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£39.95
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£431.40
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£166.74
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Domaine de la Charbonniere,
For laying down,
Monsieur Maret père has indeed retired now that the domaine has reached its centenary, handing over to his two very capable daughters Véronique and Caroline though without a doubt maintaining a close eye on proceedings.
They own all but a tiny plot of the prettily named vineyard Mourre des Perdrix (‘partridge mound’, or perhaps ‘knoll’) and the 2012 reveals itself to be a wonderfully silky, almost pinot-like, wine yet with a firm structure underlying to ensure it lasting and improving for some good few years. The domaine employs, with great care, a higher proportion of Grenache than some and with careful management this lends the wine its supple, graceful elegance. We were all very taken with it when some of the team tasted there mid-February.
They own all but a tiny plot of the prettily named vineyard Mourre des Perdrix (‘partridge mound’, or perhaps ‘knoll’) and the 2012 reveals itself to be a wonderfully silky, almost pinot-like, wine yet with a firm structure underlying to ensure it lasting and improving for some good few years. The domaine employs, with great care, a higher proportion of Grenache than some and with careful management this lends the wine its supple, graceful elegance. We were all very taken with it when some of the team tasted there mid-February.
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£162.72
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£130.00
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Chateau La Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
The relative shift in the balance of power from Grenache to Syrah and Mourvèdre has resulted in a 2013 that is darkly coloured, rich and softly spicy. The trademark Nerthe polish is by no means absent, but there is perhaps a little more black fruit than sometimes, and a more authoritative finish.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christian Voeux is better qualified than most when he compares 2013 to the most lauded vintages of the late 20th century. Before taking on the prize job at La Nerthe five years ago, Christian was the highly influential winemaker at Château Mont- Redon for 25 years. The prospect of low yields does not rule out ‘vendanges verte’, he muses, in the same way that cooler temperatures do not mean that the wines will be lacking in structure—QED. A superb 2013, La Nerthe’s classic Châteauneuf du Pape exhibits ample ripe blackberry, sweet cherries, licorice, new leather and spice. Made from 43% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre and the balance Cinsault, it spent 12 months in close to equal parts small barrel and larger foudre. Enjoy this medium-bodied, supple, elegant and downright pretty Châteauneuf over the coming decade.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£215.70
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Chateau La Nerthe,
Ready, but will improve,
The final blend this year will be 44% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, the Syrah now nearly achieving parity with the Grenache and in terms of taste profile it’s certainly just as influential. Maturation has been 63% in barrel, 37% in foudre and the wine rejoices in classic ripeness and purity, aromatic and subtle intensity. An archetype from the modern end of the spectrum.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Christian Voeux, with decades of experience at Mont Redon, is now really getting into his stride at the la Nerthe, probably the only property in the village which deserves its ‘château’ prefix. He describes 2012 as a Burgundian vintage, its hallmarks he cites as finesse with latent power. Both Cadettes and Beauvenir have been made this year, in itself a telling sign.. The low yields have engendered concentration and the growing season has favoured Syrah, which is a larger than usual shareholder in the blends. The putative Nerthe share price is rising all the time, it seems.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Christian Voeux, with decades of experience at Mont Redon, is now really getting into his stride at the la Nerthe, probably the only property in the village which deserves its ‘château’ prefix. He describes 2012 as a Burgundian vintage, its hallmarks he cites as finesse with latent power. Both Cadettes and Beauvenir have been made this year, in itself a telling sign.. The low yields have engendered concentration and the growing season has favoured Syrah, which is a larger than usual shareholder in the blends. The putative Nerthe share price is rising all the time, it seems.
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£431.40
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£166.74
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
Ready, but will keep,
One can be sure of two things when analysing the two properties named Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape; firstly that one will not encounter anyone named Raymond Usseglio at the domaine named Raymond Usseglio or anyone named Pierre Usseglio at the domaine named Pierre Usseglio. Secondly, and more importantly, that both properties now make outstanding wine. As it happens, 2012 is one of the most eloquent illustrations of this statement that one would wish to find.
Pure indulgence, this 100 percent Roussanne has been fermented and aged in 100 percent new French barrel, but wears its oaky livery exceptionally lightly. Honeycomb, nectarine and poached pear are evidenced, with a spicy twist on the finish.
Pure indulgence, this 100 percent Roussanne has been fermented and aged in 100 percent new French barrel, but wears its oaky livery exceptionally lightly. Honeycomb, nectarine and poached pear are evidenced, with a spicy twist on the finish.
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£333.48
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Domaine de Marcoux,
For laying down,
Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the Crau and Gallimardes in the south, in other words a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 70 percent Grenache, 15 percent Mourvèdre, 12 percent Syrah and three percent Cinsault – that is to say with a shade less Grenache than sometimes. The wine has classic aromas of thyme, sousbois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate where heathery notes are tempered by peat and incense, then soft mandarin gilded by verbena and lavender – and then one is likely to get carried away with superlatives.
Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2018-2023.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£40.00
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£216.00
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£166.98
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Domaine de Marcoux,
Ready, but will improve,
Parsimonious yields of 19 hectolitres per hectare have resulted in the decision not to make the famous Vieilles Vignes cuvée this year; a shame maybe, but all to the benefit of the generic wine, which was one of my favourites of a week spent in the southern vineyards in November of last year. Sophie compares the style here to elegant examples made decades ago; deceptively powerful wines, rustic and silky at the same time.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
I hope I am not betraying confidence by revealing that in a recent conversation, the celebrated Rhône expert John Livingstone- Learmonth confessed to me that Marcoux was one of his very favourite estates in the region. It is hard to disagree, such is the attention to detail adopted by sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier. Sophie compares 2013 to 1988 and 1989, relatively late and distinguished by discreet complexity and great finesse. It’s great to see how these qualities have also been captured on the other side of the river in Lirac. I suspect the only Châteauneuf du Pape made in the vintage (it was the only one presented), the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape is a fresh, lively and peppery effort that has a medium-bodied, nicely focused, pure and elegant style. Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and splash of Cinsault, it should drink nicely on release and evolve gracefully through 2022.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
I hope I am not betraying confidence by revealing that in a recent conversation, the celebrated Rhône expert John Livingstone- Learmonth confessed to me that Marcoux was one of his very favourite estates in the region. It is hard to disagree, such is the attention to detail adopted by sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier. Sophie compares 2013 to 1988 and 1989, relatively late and distinguished by discreet complexity and great finesse. It’s great to see how these qualities have also been captured on the other side of the river in Lirac. I suspect the only Châteauneuf du Pape made in the vintage (it was the only one presented), the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape is a fresh, lively and peppery effort that has a medium-bodied, nicely focused, pure and elegant style. Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and splash of Cinsault, it should drink nicely on release and evolve gracefully through 2022.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£432.00
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Domaine de Marcoux,
Ready, but will improve,
Of the 13 plots which make up this wine, the key ones are Beaurenard in the north-west, Charbonnière on the central Crau plateau and Gallimardes in the south, in other words a richly diverse provenance. The blend is 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 7 % Syrah and 3% Cinsault; the wine has classic aromas of thyme, sousbois and macerated plum and an equally classic palate which is long and unnervingly complex.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, none better, in my admittedly limited experience, given such a history, than 2012. A fact supported by the exceptionally low yields, between 17 and 19 hectare litres per hectare across the parcels. Grenache is vinified with Mourvèdre on the one hand and with Syrah on the other.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The forebears of sisters Sophie and Catherine Armenier have been making superb wines since 1344 it seems, none better, in my admittedly limited experience, given such a history, than 2012. A fact supported by the exceptionally low yields, between 17 and 19 hectare litres per hectare across the parcels. Grenache is vinified with Mourvèdre on the one hand and with Syrah on the other.
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£42.00
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£453.60
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£175.98
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
Ready, but will keep,
As with most of Stéphane’s wines, the ‘brand’ name is far from inappropriate. Roussanne suits barrelageing, as here, where it has had eight months, with regular battonage. However the resulting wine is both pure and focused, with poached pear notes and hints of crème brûlée. A little patience will allow nuances of almond, nougat and lemongrass to come through: all in all, a very promising Roussanne.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. Possessing a richer, more layered and ripe profile over the classic white, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Roussanne is 100% of the variety and spent eight months in barrel, on lees. It boasts beautiful purity and freshness, as well as notes of poached pear, apple, brioche and mint. This is followed by a medium-bodied white that has a crisp, well-defined and edgy feel, good concentration and ample length. I’d drink bottles over the coming 3-4 years, but it will hold and evolve for longer.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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£475.20
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Vieux Telegraphe,
For laying down,
Yielding a parsimonious 20 hectolitres per hectare, with coulure reducing the Grenache from its customary 60 percent to somewhere closer to 55 percent, this is the year when the other varieties were afforded a little more limelight, with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault all equally impressive, and a little vestigial Clairette adding interest and a gentle floral twist. An unusual Vieux Télégraphe, certainly, but in no way disappointing. Aromatics of forest floor, black tea and ripe plum cede to a palate where notes of tapenade and garrigue are complemented by a core of dark ripe fruit and finely-etched tannins indicative of both inherent quality and ageing potential.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, the rest being made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, and a tiny bit of Cinsault.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most renowned estates of the Southern Rhône, with around 45 hectares of vines, and an average vine age of 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds, the rest being made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, and a tiny bit of Cinsault.
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Ready, but will improve,
The juxtaposition of old concrete fermentation tanks and new maturation barriques, underlines the Delorme philosophy and its apparently contradictory approach to intervention. Be that as it may, it certainly seems to work. The 2011 is a dense, powerfully authoritative wine, with ripeness and quality seeping out of its every pore. Its texture is informed, but not dominated by the oak, and both major and minor keys are evidenced in the integration of the tannins.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Christophe and Fabrice Delorme did not take long to project this fine estate, named somewhat poetically after a woodcock, into the first division. Based in Tavel, theoretically rather unhelpfully as most activity takes place over on the other side of the Rhône river, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious Rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape which combines the best virtues of modernity and tradition. 2011 was especially successful for them; they attribute the high natural sugar levels to biodynamic viticulture.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Christophe and Fabrice Delorme did not take long to project this fine estate, named somewhat poetically after a woodcock, into the first division. Based in Tavel, theoretically rather unhelpfully as most activity takes place over on the other side of the Rhône river, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious Rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape which combines the best virtues of modernity and tradition. 2011 was especially successful for them; they attribute the high natural sugar levels to biodynamic viticulture.
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£45.00
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£486.00
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
Ready, but will improve,
The angels’ share in this particular instance is made up of 70% Mourvèdre (with 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah), aged in barrique and suitably precocious, with dark spicy fruit, all black cherry, myrtle and cassis, fine balancing acidity and an impressive crescendo on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
One can be sure of two things when analysing the two properties named Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape; firstly that one will not encounter any one named Raimond Usseglio at the Domaine named Raimond Usseglio or anyone named Pierre Usseglio at the Domaine named Pierre Usseglio. Secondly, and more importantly, that both properties now make outstanding wine. As it happens, 2012 is one of the most eloquent illustrations of this statement that one would wish to fine.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
One can be sure of two things when analysing the two properties named Usseglio in Châteauneuf-du-Pape; firstly that one will not encounter any one named Raimond Usseglio at the Domaine named Raimond Usseglio or anyone named Pierre Usseglio at the Domaine named Pierre Usseglio. Secondly, and more importantly, that both properties now make outstanding wine. As it happens, 2012 is one of the most eloquent illustrations of this statement that one would wish to fine.
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£47.00
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£507.60
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
For laying down,
From vines located on the Crau dating from 1902, 95 percent of which are Grenache, five percent a somewhat mixed bag, the Impériale is an extremely impressive achievement, aged for more than 18 months before release, all in vat with not a barrel in sight. The 2014 impresses with its silky finesse, its fine chalky tannins and its ethereal character, profound in its soaring delicacy.
Drink 2019-2024+
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Drink 2019-2024+
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
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£49.50
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£267.30
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£209.76
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Vieux Telegraphe,
For laying down,
Vieux Télégraphe is a large estate, with about 45 hectares of red grapevines planted, averaging 55 years in age. Blessed with one of the finest locations in the area, the particularly hot microclimate is such that the Bruniers, owners of the estate for almost a century, are able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours.
Daniel Brunier is forthright in describing the 2011 vintage, “We took some risks waiting for the end of the harvest,” which was for this reason extended for nearly a month. The risks have clearly paid off. The 45-day maceration and extended maturation cannot hide the exuberant come-hither of the fruit. Beyond all this, as always, there is real depth with spicy, red-berry fruit now in the ascendant and the darker more saturnine notes, courtesy of the Mourvèdre, left to wait.
Daniel Brunier is forthright in describing the 2011 vintage, “We took some risks waiting for the end of the harvest,” which was for this reason extended for nearly a month. The risks have clearly paid off. The 45-day maceration and extended maturation cannot hide the exuberant come-hither of the fruit. Beyond all this, as always, there is real depth with spicy, red-berry fruit now in the ascendant and the darker more saturnine notes, courtesy of the Mourvèdre, left to wait.
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Domaine de la Mordoree,
Ready, but will improve,
The Queen of the woods is on top form in 2012; Titania meets Maid Marion. The blend here is 80/10 Grenache/Mourvèdre, with the balance shared between Syrah, Counoise and Vaccarèse. The majority of the vines are located on the famous pebbly Crau plateau, and the ageing is shared between oak and enamel tank. Complexity is immediately evident with notes of hearth-side, sousbois and game completing the richly and fleshy core. The House style rehearses power and long-term potential.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Being based on the other side of the river (in Tavel) has in no way impeded the progress of the Delorme brothers, who make excellent and highly-valued Châteauneuf-du-Papes. It should come as no surprise, therefore, that both their Tavel and their Lirac are also superb. The Tavel Rosé does not feature in our En Primeur offer, but the 2012 is available to buy ‘landed’ and is highly prized.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Being based on the other side of the river (in Tavel) has in no way impeded the progress of the Delorme brothers, who make excellent and highly-valued Châteauneuf-du-Papes. It should come as no surprise, therefore, that both their Tavel and their Lirac are also superb. The Tavel Rosé does not feature in our En Primeur offer, but the 2012 is available to buy ‘landed’ and is highly prized.
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£50.00
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£245.16
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£191.28
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Domaine Raymond Usseglio,
For laying down,
One may clearly be guided by thought association, but this wine really does seem to have a lifted, ethereal quality. Mourvèdre dominates the blend, taking up 70 percent, and is aged in three-year-old barriques. The wood is evident, of course, at such a young age, but is far from intrusive; buttressing potential and safeguarding an auspicious future.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. While 2013 was a bust for Grenache, the Mourvedre actually excelled. This shows in the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges, which is 70% Mourvedre and the balance Grenache and Syrah. Aged in new to 3-year-old barrels, it has a modern style, but handles it beautifully. Sweet oak, black raspberry, cassis, crushed flowers and vanilla bean all show here, and it has medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and fantastic mid-palate. It’s a rocking barrel sample that should check in near the top of the appellation.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
A new father in 2014, Stéphane is pleased with his Syrah in 2013, and also the fact that he is progressing towards full Demeter (biodynamic) accreditation. He’s clearly not afraid of hard work. He describes the 2013 wines, with a whiff of Gallic contradiction as ‘fine yet concentrated’, citing an almost Burgundian elegance of texture and making the comparison-somewhat unusually-to the 2000. While 2013 was a bust for Grenache, the Mourvedre actually excelled. This shows in the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape la Part des Anges, which is 70% Mourvedre and the balance Grenache and Syrah. Aged in new to 3-year-old barrels, it has a modern style, but handles it beautifully. Sweet oak, black raspberry, cassis, crushed flowers and vanilla bean all show here, and it has medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and fantastic mid-palate. It’s a rocking barrel sample that should check in near the top of the appellation.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Domaine de la Janasse,
For laying down,
On the stony plateau of Le Crau, these old Grenache vines were planted in 1912 and are farmed organically. The grapes are late to ripen, the vines being relatively high and exposed to the elements. Patience is rewarded by an outstanding expression of Grenache: silky, rich and exceptionally elegant, its tannins already beautifully integrated, its finish both enduring and endearing.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. What could be one of the wines of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin, which was harvested October 6-7, has beautiful depth and concentration to go with notes of blackberry, spring flowers, licorice and peppery herbs. Due to the horrible yields for Grenache, production here is down 35%. It should drink nicely on release and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Sabon took us on the most fascinating vineyard tour in October 2014, underlining once again why he is held in such esteem in the appellation, and why Janasse make such widely praised wines across the spectrum. His sister, Isabelle, who operates the commercial side of the business, places 2013 stylistically between 2010 and 2011; she advises that the wines are a little more powerful than 2011 and perhaps a little rounder than 2010. Praise indeed, but a commentary that seems to be justified by the wines themselves. What could be one of the wines of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin, which was harvested October 6-7, has beautiful depth and concentration to go with notes of blackberry, spring flowers, licorice and peppery herbs. Due to the horrible yields for Grenache, production here is down 35%. It should drink nicely on release and have 10-15 years of longevity.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#215 Oct 2014
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Vieux Telegraphe,
For laying down,
Vieux Télégraphe’s standards are always high, but the 2012 is simply outstanding, defying both the thesaurus and the encyclopaedia with its depth of dark fruit flavours, its ripe yet stentorian tannins and its marked almost salty freshness on the finish. A masterpiece.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch. The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’ Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that in all three wines that there is both power and lightness of touch. The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, or even Nureyev himself.
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£227.46
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Jeroboam 1 x 300cl 1cs
£360.00
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£55.00
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£215.46
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Chateau de Beaucastel,
Drink now,
A typically full, concentrated Chteau Beaucastel which possesses a high percentage of Mouvdre; the variety's sweet, purple fruit characteristics balances the liquorice and spicey flavours of this thick, chewy wine. It is just emerging from its shell, and will continue to drink for another 15 years or more.
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£56.00
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Maison Chapoutier,
Ready, but will improve,
Pretty pudding stones adorn the Croix de Boix in the southern sector, with red clay beneath and a little sand. This cuvée is 100% Grenache, yet captures some of the silky purity of its northern siblings, its additional herbal weight worn lightly, pellucid and posed on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Surely the most lauded vinous portfolio in the Rhône, the Parcellaires make up a definitive statement of terroir, the majority of which is located in the tiny appellation of Hermitage. Volumes are appropriately modest.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
Surely the most lauded vinous portfolio in the Rhône, the Parcellaires make up a definitive statement of terroir, the majority of which is located in the tiny appellation of Hermitage. Volumes are appropriately modest.
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£58.00
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£313.20
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Domaine de la Janasse,
For laying down,
Chaupin’s calling card resides in the fact that its plots, albeit diverse (Chapouin and Janasse in the north, Le Crau in the South) are all predominantly sandy. Its 100 percent Grenache therefore invites comparison with Rayas… and a favourable comparison, one is inclined to think. Its charming feminine nose marries black fruit and violets, while the conjugal rights are sealed by a luxuriant, softly eloquent palate which lingers on the finish and in the memory. Drink 2022-2030+.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The brother and sister team of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon continue to work wonders at Janasse. They farm 80 hectares of vineyards spread over a number of wine appellations: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is all located in the north-east of the appellation in the commune of Courthézon, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages, but also Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange and Vin de Table. Concrete tanks are used for the Grenache and oak for the Syrah and Mourvèdre; in other words, everything is fairly traditional. Isabelle Sabon compares the 2015 to 2005 and 2010. Its tannic profile sits somewhere in the middle, as, possibly, does its quality. For all that, they are three outstanding vintages.
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£58.00
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£315.00
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£33.00
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£249.48
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Chateau de Beaucastel,
Ready, but will improve,
As usual the Beaucastel Blanc is a blend dominated by Roussanne (80%) with 15% of Grenache Blanc and the balance shared by Picardin, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Complex in other words, impressively so already despite its youth, with white flowers, nutmeg, agrume and quince all vying, politely, for attention.
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer
Drink now to 2020.
Simon Field MW Wine Buyer
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£59.50
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Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
The Mousset family, rather like the Perrins or the Sabons, seem to dominate the landscape of the Southern Rhône, be it through the management of the distinctive Domaine des Fines Roches hotel, or the ownership of one of the largest estates in the valley (Clos St Michel), or one of the smallest (Domaine des Saumades). With Château Rayas as one’s immediate neighbour, even 2.5 hectares can go a long way.