Vin de Pays
Since their birth almost forty years ago, Vins de pays (‘country wines’) have become popular both in France and abroad and enjoy particular success in Britain. Intended to be ‘easy to understand and to drink’, these wines represent the second rung in the ladder of French wine classification, being superior to Vin de Table but below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure (VDQS)
Althought not as stringent as those for AOC, Vin de Pays wines must fulfill certain criteria: they must exclusively derive from their named area, meet precise standards under analysis, come from ‘recommended’ grape varities (as per each département) and must receive a tasting accreditation.
The designation of Vin de Pays is divided into three tiers:
Vin de Pays Régionaux (regional)
These denominations include:
- Vin de Pays d’Oc (from Languedoc-Roussillon, accounting for 70% of all French Vin de Pays)
- Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (from the Loire Valley)
- Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan (from the south-west of France)
- Vins de Pays Portes de Méditerranée (from the south-east, Provence and Corsica)
- Vin de Pays des Comtés Rhodaniens (from the Rhone valley) and Vin de Pays de l’Atlantique (from Bordeaux and Charentes)
- Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (in Armagnac country, producing refreshing, dry white wines
- and its Cognac counterpart Vin de Pays Charentais
Vin de Pays Départementaux (departmental)
Names of these wines derive from the French départements (administrative divisions similar to English counties) in which the wine is made. There are about 50, for example,
- Vin de Pays Loire-Atlantique is made in the Loire-Atlantique département, which is part of the regional designation Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France.
- Vin de Pays de l'Aude (in Aude)
- Vin de Pays de l'Hérault ( in L'Hérault) in Languedoc
- Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
Vin de Pays de Zone (local)
These are the smallest subdivions of Vin de Pays and are, for the most part, to be found in the Languedoc region. Local names are often drawn from a geographical feature (sometimes no longer recognisable) or historical event. Examples of local names are Vin de Pays des Marche de Bretagne, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Quercy, Vin de Pays de Cathare and Vin de Pays de la Vallée du Paradis.
The most important of the Vins de Pays is Vin de Pays d’Oc, which is France’s prime source of varietal wine. Roughly 85% of Vins de Pays originate in Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence or the southern Rhône, with a further 6% coming from the Loire. The vast majority of Vin de Pays is red. In terms of price, Vin de Pays is typically young, simple wine from high-yielding vines, and it is usually sold for less than an AOC equivalent.
Wine-growers may choose to bottle their wines as Vin du Pays to take advantage of the flexibility afforded by this designation (for example, certain -usually international- grape varieties and wine making techniques may be prohibited by their local AOC regulations, but they are permitted by their local Vin de Pays).
Thanks to the efforts of some particularly ambitious wine-makers, there are now numerous Vins de Pays that are internationally acclaimed. Some top class estates, such as René Rostaing in Côte Rôtie and Domaine de Coudoulet produce excellent wines in the Vin de Pays designation, as well as bottling using their AOC.
Notably, the acclaimed Mas de Daumas Gassac produces all its wines exclusively as Vin de Pays (VdP de l'Herault)
Prices:
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl289cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl112cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl95cs
Bottle
£9.95
Bottle
£10.42
Bottle 12 x 75cl67cs
This is one of the nicest Viogniers we know, away from the variety’s Rhône heartland. It retains Viognier’s apricot and peach stone notes, but adds a cool stone dimension that lifts the wine away from any heaviness. This isn’t complex but is immediately delicious and a little bit different too.
Bottle
£11.70
Bottle 12 x 75cl43cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Bottle
£13.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl19cs
Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£14.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl16cs
Nick Stewart, Wine Buying
Bottle
£17.95
The wine is appropriately different, with hints of salinity underscoring a mid-palate profile, which is dominated by grapefruit, quince and poached pear. Notes of honey and spice are also evidenced and the finish is powerful; an unusual but most impressive example. Exactly the kind of wine, all too seldom unearthed, which shows off the rich diversity of the heritage of the Languedoc.
Bottle
£18.25
Bottle 12 x 75cl4cs
Bottle
£18.55
Bottle 12 x 75cl8cs
When I started buying Rhône wines a decade ago, there was one name, above all others, which commanded universal respect and adulation amongst producers and that was the name of Georges Vernay, known affectionately as Le Pape de Condrieu for his almost single –handed feat of rescuing this magnificent appellation from obsolescence. Indeed it became clear that not mentioning Domaine Georges Vernay when in the region could be like going to Jerusalem and not visiting the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, in other words a terrible mistake. Imagine our delight when the House agreed to work directly with Berry Bros and Rudd.
Today managed with brio by George’s daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem, the domaine covers 10ha of Appellation Contrôlée vineyards and a similar area of Vin de Pays, in this case vineyards literally just outside the relevant AOC boundaries.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Bottle
£19.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl6cs
Georges Vernay, known affectionately as Le Pape de Condrieu for his almost single –handed feat of rescuing this magnificent appellation from obsolescence, commanded universal respect and adulation amongst producers in the region, and his domaine's repution is now been upheld by his daughter Christine and her husband Paul Ansellem. They manage the domaine's 10ha of Appellation Contrôlée vineyards and a similar area of Vin de Pays, in this case vineyards literally just outside the relevant AOC boundaries.
The typically delightfully-named Fleurs de Mai (with its deliberate deference to Beaudelaire) is a case in point; the wine is a charming early-drinking Syrah sourced from vines just outside of the commune of Tupins in the south of Côte Rôtie. Aromatics of violet, high season roses and a Thomas Hardy cornucopia of fruit presage a palate of great harmony.
Bottle
£19.95
Linear and fine, La Rosine continues to punch way above its weight. This is a spicy yet ripe, fulsome yet restrained assemblage which shows off fine Syrah fruit, expertly crafted for relatively early appreciation. Drink now to 2018.
Bottle
£19.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl46cs
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off. The 2013 La Rosine Syrah VDP is similar in style to the 2012, with a pretty, perfumed feel in its black cherry, chocolate, floral and peppery bouquet. Medium-bodied, elegant and juicy, drink it over the coming 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Bottle
£20.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl24cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The loquacious François Villard is something of an instinctive winemaker. Sometimes his instincts take him down a cul-de-sac, but generally they demonstrate a clos affinity to his many and varied plots and projects. It is therefore not entirely inappropriate that he cites 2012 as a vintage of great purity and potential, but also one where there is a greater qualitative gap than sometimes between good and less good examples. We, unsurprisingly, have decided to buy the wines which fall into the former group.
Bottle
£24.65
Bottle 6 x 75cl26cs
Bottle
£24.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl8cs
Bottle
£27.30
Bottle
£27.30
Bottle 12 x 75cl4cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Les Vins de Vienne has almost out-grown their progenitors, in the sense that their négociant arm is now far more significant than that of Messrs Cuilleron, Villard and Gaillard. If the move from the precipitous and chaotic Seyssuel winery has taken a little romance from the project, the brilliant winemaking of Pascal Lombard has ensured an increase in quality and the forging of a distinct identity, important in what may once have been conceived as a somewhat amorphous project.
Bottle
£27.30
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerers Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.
Bottle
£29.25
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.
Bottle
£29.25
Bottle 6 x 75cl2cs
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Pierre-Jean’s decade as the régisseur at les Vins de Vienne, taking daily control of winemaking as the eminences grises Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard supervised from a distance, has clearly rubbed off. His Seyssuel wine is outstanding and fantastically different from the Côte-Rôtie, underlining subtly differing terroir and the fact that the mighty Rhône separates the two enclaves.
Bottle
£32.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl15cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
Pierre-Jean, the former régisseur at Vins De Vienne, set up on his own four or five years ago, purchasing extremely classy and often long-established vineyards in the areas he knows best, that is to say in Seyssuel and St Joseph. The quality of his first full vintage in 2009 was as impressive as the volumes were small; in 2010 the both volumes and quality are on the up, the latter by more than the former…
Bottle
£32.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl12cs
2011 was a cooler year than some and the wine has silky composure, fine balanced acidity and impressive length.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£34.35
Bottle 6 x 75cl18cs
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
Bottle
£35.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl18cs
The 2012 is redolent of the hillsides of Roussillon: aromas of garrigue and fresh black fruit. Black fruit dominates the palate, supported by firm tannins. The finish is long and confident.
Will Heslop - Buying Department
Bottle
£35.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl11cs
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£35.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl13cs
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Bottle
£37.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl41cs
Magnum
£77.00
Magnum 3 x 150cl4cs
The wines of Seyssuel may currently be classified as Vin de Pays, but I think the quality easily justifies it having its own appellation. No doubt this will happen as some stage; we will be hearing more and more about this emerging area of the Northern Rhône. A floral nose leads to lots of spicy and smoky notes across the palate. Cool, succulent dark fruit with an attractive creaminess, cleansing acidity and an anise finish. A vin de plaisir
Martin Rolph, Private Account Manager
Elegantly styled and full of quality, this strikes an instant sense of complexity with spicy wild strawberries and black cherries on the nose. A bit of hedonistic pleasure isn’t far behind though as the palate is pure and silky smooth, before soft and clean tannins give a very fresh feel to the finish.
Guy Davies, Wine Team
L’Ame Sœur is now recognised as one of the most successful of the Seyssuel projects, that is to say the vineyards that have been revitalised above Vienne on the East side of the River… the subtle differences in aspect and soil (mica-schist in essence) are captured, enticingly, in an example which glories in pavonine complexity on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
If one is permitted to assess the quality of a vigneron by the number of eager Antipodean cellar rats helping out at vintage time, then Stéphane Ogier appears to be the man of the moment. If one takes the more traditional approach of assessing quality by analysis of what is in the glass, or what is in the barrel, then he is definitely the man of the moment. He compares it to 2010, which is praise indeed.
Bottle
£37.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl4cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl3cs
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd