Vin de Pays
Since their birth almost forty years ago, Vins de pays (‘country wines’) have become popular both in France and abroad and enjoy particular success in Britain. Intended to be ‘easy to understand and to drink’, these wines represent the second rung in the ladder of French wine classification, being superior to Vin de Table but below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure (VDQS)
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J L Terrier & C Collovray,
Drink now,
This wine exudes notes of white blossom, citrus and generous stone-fruit. It has lively and energetic, almost saline acidity, that one expects from the beautiful hillsides of Limoux. Juicy and silky in texture, the concentration drives on right to the finish
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
J L Terrier & C Collovray,
Drink now,
Deep ruby in colour, notes of pepper and spice showcase the wine’s Syrah component. The Merlot adds a red berry and plum aroma, supported by a juicy and generous palate. The fresh, vibrant acidity from the Syrah, combined with the spicy and ripe tannins, make for a well-balanced and accessible red. This was a particularly good vintage for both Merlot and Syrah
Fiona Hayes Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Fiona Hayes Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Ready, but will improve,
Le Soula,
Ready, but will keep,
This cuvée is made from Carignan, Syrah and Grenache fruit from old vines which are farmed biodynamically and planted high in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The high altitude allows the fruit to retain a lovely freshness which gives this wine finesse and elegance. Made using minimum amounts of sulphur, this red has plenty of ripe blackcurrant and red berry fruit which sit alongside leather, thyme and a subtle “animal note”, which is present enough to give complexity without overwhelming the palate as some natural wines can do. Aged at the domaine, this is ready for drinking, although it will mature very gracefully should one wish to keep it for a while.
Oliver Barton, Wine Buyer
Oliver Barton, Wine Buyer
Mas de Daumas Gassac,
Ready, but will keep,
Mas De Daumas Gassac is the brainchild of Aimé Guibert, oneologist Emile Peynaud, and geologist Henri Enjalbert. Described famously as 'The First Growth of the Languedoc' by Hugh Johnson, Mas de Daumas, despite its flattering imitators, remains unique, primarily because its red wine is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon.
The estate planted its first vines in 1974, in the unique and gentle climate of Aniane just to the north-west of Montpellier. Here they identified a combination of Burgundian terroir and an extraordinary micro-climate, dominated by gentle garrigue slopes and cool underground springs. This is now considered the finest terroir in the South of France, and led to the challenge to reproduce the quality of the best Châteaux of Médoc in the Languedoc.
Many of the leading Languedoc estates have now established themselves here, but it was Mas De Daumas Gassac who pioneered the production of world-class wine in the region, and can still be considered its finest producer.
When Aimé Guibert retired the gauntlet passed to his sons Samuel and Roman, who have proved more than a match for the challenge.
Upon appearance, The 2014 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge displays a deep ruby core with a purple hue. The dominating Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is evident on the nose with aromas of ripe blackcurrants and bramble, amongst black rose petal, smoke, and a lick of liquorice. An immediate richness of black fruit greets you on the palate, which is carried through to the back of the mouth across a velvety texture. All components are working together, the tannins are long and fine yet providing a neat framework, alcohol is modestly low and allows the purity of the blackcurrant and red plum fruit to shine through, balanced with a cleansing acidity. Leaving a clean and lasting finish with a touch of bitter chocolate. 13% alcohol. Drinking 2017 – 2022+.
Chris Lamb, Private Accoun
The estate planted its first vines in 1974, in the unique and gentle climate of Aniane just to the north-west of Montpellier. Here they identified a combination of Burgundian terroir and an extraordinary micro-climate, dominated by gentle garrigue slopes and cool underground springs. This is now considered the finest terroir in the South of France, and led to the challenge to reproduce the quality of the best Châteaux of Médoc in the Languedoc.
Many of the leading Languedoc estates have now established themselves here, but it was Mas De Daumas Gassac who pioneered the production of world-class wine in the region, and can still be considered its finest producer.
When Aimé Guibert retired the gauntlet passed to his sons Samuel and Roman, who have proved more than a match for the challenge.
Upon appearance, The 2014 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge displays a deep ruby core with a purple hue. The dominating Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is evident on the nose with aromas of ripe blackcurrants and bramble, amongst black rose petal, smoke, and a lick of liquorice. An immediate richness of black fruit greets you on the palate, which is carried through to the back of the mouth across a velvety texture. All components are working together, the tannins are long and fine yet providing a neat framework, alcohol is modestly low and allows the purity of the blackcurrant and red plum fruit to shine through, balanced with a cleansing acidity. Leaving a clean and lasting finish with a touch of bitter chocolate. 13% alcohol. Drinking 2017 – 2022+.
Chris Lamb, Private Accoun
Mas de Daumas Gassac,
Ready, but will keep,
2009 was hot in the middle of summer, but the Gassac water-table had been well nourished in the Spring and the vines did not have to struggle too much. The Guiberts, pre et fils, have no hesitation in lauding the wine as a worthy companion, when mature, to the 2000, the 1988 and the legendary 1978. Why? Because the conditions allowed ripe fruit and soft tannins whilst not for a moment forsaking the virtues of balance, structure and length. Small grapes with thick skins are reliable qualitative precursors, it seems.
The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. The undulating vineyard is protected by scrub and garrigue, both informing the distinctive taste and adding a real sense of place. The Cabernet is quite reticent at the moment, its tannins primes inter pares.. the latent fruit character will emerge triumphantly after bottling and slowly but surely come into its own. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wine has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Domaine Gauby,
Ready, but will keep,
‘Old vines’ is a somewhat nebulous term, but the Carignan vines that provide 35% of this blend are unequivocally long in the tooth – planted up to 125 years ago. The remainder of the blend is Grenache (a mere 55 years-old), Mourvèdre and Syrah, which have been cultivated bio-dynamically since 2001. Like all the domain’s wines, Vieilles Vignes Rouge is bottled un-fined and unfiltered in order to capture as much as possible of its exceptional provenance.
The 2012 is redolent of the hillsides of Roussillon: aromas of garrigue and fresh black fruit. Black fruit dominates the palate, supported by firm tannins. The finish is long and confident.
Will Heslop - Buying Department
The 2012 is redolent of the hillsides of Roussillon: aromas of garrigue and fresh black fruit. Black fruit dominates the palate, supported by firm tannins. The finish is long and confident.
Will Heslop - Buying Department
Ready, but will keep,
2009 in the South of France was almost perfect for the vines; the early rain providing energy and fuel, the mid-summer temperatures engendering complexity through their diversity and the late season warmth ensuring a happy coincidence of phenolic and fruit ripeness. Trevallon provides a magnificent illustration of this benevolence, all the more so because the marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah requires very specific conditions, with sufficient warmth to ripen the Cabernet skins but diurnal patterns through the season to allow the Syrah to shine through with pellucid purity. The wine succeeds admirably, with the roundhead Cabernet providing a sober framework and the more cavalier Syrah broadening the mouth-feel, harnessing the sweetness and lifting the mood.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Ready, but will keep,
“Trévallon Rouge always has similarities in structure and finesse to the finer wines of the Médoc whilst holding resonance with the dense, dark wines of the Northern Rhône. 2011 is no different, with the Rhone aspect holding a stronger hold over the palate at the moment. Rich and exuberant red and black fruit vie for attention through the front of the palate. A distinctive white pepper lifts the mid palate before a focussed, linear finish. This wine is refreshing and appealing now, but will surely benefit from a further two years in the cellar and can be enjoyed over the following ten.”
(Gary Owen - Fine Wine Department - 29-Nov-2012)
(Gary Owen - Fine Wine Department - 29-Nov-2012)
Mas de Daumas Gassac,
Ready, but will keep,
2011 was relatively-speaking a cooler year in the Aniane Valley, and the wine has greater freshness than sometimes, greater purity and perhaps a greater sense of terroir. The fruit ripened nicely, if later, and the tannins are finely drawn, not for a moment forsaking the virtues of balance, structure and length. Small grapes with thick skins are reliable qualitative precursors, it seems.
The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Neboilo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wines has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
Simon Field MW, Berrys' Southern France Buyer
The dominant Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend leads to lovely rich dark fruits and a pleasing sense of style. However, for me the real interest comes from the other varietals that are blended with this, they add real interest to the palate, with meaty, smoky characters coming through and a powerful structure that clearly indicates this will age very well indeed. Mas de Daumas Gassac is a wine with a big reputation and in 2011 it clearly demonstrates why it is in such demand!
Matthew Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager - 29-Nov-2012
The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Neboilo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wines has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
Simon Field MW, Berrys' Southern France Buyer
The dominant Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend leads to lovely rich dark fruits and a pleasing sense of style. However, for me the real interest comes from the other varietals that are blended with this, they add real interest to the palate, with meaty, smoky characters coming through and a powerful structure that clearly indicates this will age very well indeed. Mas de Daumas Gassac is a wine with a big reputation and in 2011 it clearly demonstrates why it is in such demand!
Matthew Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager - 29-Nov-2012
Mas de Daumas Gassac,
Drink now,
The white from Daumas Gassac has long been a favourite of mine, in its own way just as influential as the red; indeed in the selection of grape varieties, namely equal shares of Viognier, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, it has probably been more influential. It is great to see white wines of this stature,and those from near-by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now being assessed in the same way as the top Chardonnays from Burgundy. Complexity is most impressive here, with ripeness, effortlessly achieved in this, near-perfect summer, manifested by notes of acacia, white peach and guava, and freshness evidenced by the stony minerality and crisp acidity which subtly underwrite the whole structure. A twist of nutty Mediterranean indulgence completes the picture, which is eminently food-friendly, but certainly worthy of trying on its own such is its fundamental quality.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Drink now,
Decomposed granite, located close to Tupins and Semons in the south of the appellation, hosts this outstanding Syrah. The ageing is in barrique, for 12 months, as opposed to the 18 months for the Côte Rôtie; the result is perhaps more approachable with its cherry fruit aromatics more than persuasive, but in the mouth it echoes the concentration and peppery power of its senior sibling.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
If one is permitted to assess the quality of a vigneron by the number of eager Antipodean cellar rats helping out at vintage time, then Stéphane Ogier appears to be the man of the moment. If one takes the more traditional approach of assessing quality by analysis of what is in the glass, or what is in the barrel, then he is definitely the man of the moment. He compares it to 2010, which is praise indeed
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
If one is permitted to assess the quality of a vigneron by the number of eager Antipodean cellar rats helping out at vintage time, then Stéphane Ogier appears to be the man of the moment. If one takes the more traditional approach of assessing quality by analysis of what is in the glass, or what is in the barrel, then he is definitely the man of the moment. He compares it to 2010, which is praise indeed
Ready, but will keep,
A gorgeous biodynamic wine, an even split of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 2 years in a combination of foudre and barrel. Seamless, elegant and layered, with fabulous cassis, lead pencil shavings, tobacco leaf and spice, this full-bodied beauty is perfectly balanced, with no hard edges, fine tannin and terrific length. Drink now, it has the concentration and balance to continue to evolve gracefully for at least another decade.
94/100 Jeb Dunnuck eRobertParker.com #216 Jan 2015
94/100 Jeb Dunnuck eRobertParker.com #216 Jan 2015
Drink now,
Despite the relative youth of the vines, which one must remember when rehearsing the long history of the vineyards themselves, the Sotanum is an extraordinarily concentrated wine; dark berried fruit shares the palate with notes of bitter chocolate, peat and crushed blackberries. Graphite and even hints of charcoal underline the individuality of this very special plot. The story is, of course, all in the sub-plot, which is pure schist.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
If one believes the old adage about imitation and flattery, then Les Vins de Vienne should be justifiably proud of the numerous growers now making wine from the ancient vineyards of Seyssuel, just to the north of the old Roman town of Vienne. The role of the founders, Messrs Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard is now one of benevolent consultancy and today it is winemaker Pascal Lombard who is guiding the style and building the reputation. In the manner of the Sorcerers Apprentice, the off-spring has now out-grown all three of its progenitors, but this does not seem to have had a detrimental effect on quality, particularly with the Domaine wines, the best of which are offered below.
Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Drink now,
From decomposed granitic vineyards just to the south of the appellation, La Rosine is a beguiling combination of silky elegance and structured gravitas. Twenty percent of stems have aided the latter; the former seems to come naturally in Stéphane’s wines. This wine is one of the most popular, year in year out, with Berry Bros. & Rudd staff, some of whom, allegedly, know a thing or two about wine.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off. The 2013 La Rosine Syrah VDP is similar in style to the 2012, with a pretty, perfumed feel in its black cherry, chocolate, floral and peppery bouquet. Medium-bodied, elegant and juicy, drink it over the coming 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off. The 2013 La Rosine Syrah VDP is similar in style to the 2012, with a pretty, perfumed feel in its black cherry, chocolate, floral and peppery bouquet. Medium-bodied, elegant and juicy, drink it over the coming 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Domaine Stephane Ogier,
Ready, but will improve,
Up until 1980 the Ogier family sold their entire crop to Messrs Chapoutier and Guigal. Since then, Stéphane has invested an enormous amount of time and capital in his well-situated 2.5-hectare vineyard to great aplomb.
From a parcel of vineyards planted above the slopes of Côte-Rôtie, this red offers the same quality of winemaking found in Stéphane’s other cuvées at a fraction of the price. Rich in bramble fruit, it has soft gentle tannins with characteristic black pepper and violet notes. Drink now to 2021.
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd