Vin de Pays
Since their birth almost forty years ago, Vins de pays (‘country wines’) have become popular both in France and abroad and enjoy particular success in Britain. Intended to be ‘easy to understand and to drink’, these wines represent the second rung in the ladder of French wine classification, being superior to Vin de Table but below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure (VDQS)
Althought not as stringent as those for AOC, Vin de Pays wines must fulfill certain criteria: they must exclusively derive from their named area, meet precise standards under analysis, come from ‘recommended’ grape varities (as per each département) and must receive a tasting accreditation.
The designation of Vin de Pays is divided into three tiers:
Vin de Pays Régionaux (regional)
These denominations include:
- Vin de Pays d’Oc (from Languedoc-Roussillon, accounting for 70% of all French Vin de Pays)
- Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France (from the Loire Valley)
- Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan (from the south-west of France)
- Vins de Pays Portes de Méditerranée (from the south-east, Provence and Corsica)
- Vin de Pays des Comtés Rhodaniens (from the Rhone valley) and Vin de Pays de l’Atlantique (from Bordeaux and Charentes)
- Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (in Armagnac country, producing refreshing, dry white wines
- and its Cognac counterpart Vin de Pays Charentais
Vin de Pays Départementaux (departmental)
Names of these wines derive from the French départements (administrative divisions similar to English counties) in which the wine is made. There are about 50, for example,
- Vin de Pays Loire-Atlantique is made in the Loire-Atlantique département, which is part of the regional designation Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France.
- Vin de Pays de l'Aude (in Aude)
- Vin de Pays de l'Hérault ( in L'Hérault) in Languedoc
- Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
Vin de Pays de Zone (local)
These are the smallest subdivions of Vin de Pays and are, for the most part, to be found in the Languedoc region. Local names are often drawn from a geographical feature (sometimes no longer recognisable) or historical event. Examples of local names are Vin de Pays des Marche de Bretagne, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Quercy, Vin de Pays de Cathare and Vin de Pays de la Vallée du Paradis.
The most important of the Vins de Pays is Vin de Pays d’Oc, which is France’s prime source of varietal wine. Roughly 85% of Vins de Pays originate in Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence or the southern Rhône, with a further 6% coming from the Loire. The vast majority of Vin de Pays is red. In terms of price, Vin de Pays is typically young, simple wine from high-yielding vines, and it is usually sold for less than an AOC equivalent.
Wine-growers may choose to bottle their wines as Vin du Pays to take advantage of the flexibility afforded by this designation (for example, certain -usually international- grape varieties and wine making techniques may be prohibited by their local AOC regulations, but they are permitted by their local Vin de Pays).
Thanks to the efforts of some particularly ambitious wine-makers, there are now numerous Vins de Pays that are internationally acclaimed. Some top class estates, such as René Rostaing in Côte Rôtie and Domaine de Coudoulet produce excellent wines in the Vin de Pays designation, as well as bottling using their AOC.
Notably, the acclaimed Mas de Daumas Gassac produces all its wines exclusively as Vin de Pays (VdP de l'Herault)
Prices:
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 145cs
The steep slopes of Limoux are in plain view of the Pyrenees and their magnificent terroir is especially kind to white varietals, particularly Vermentino (aka Rolle), Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the last of which dominates this blend and adds creamy complexity to a citric core, courtesy of an element which has been barrel-fermented.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 144cs
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer, June 2017
Bottle
£8.75
Bottle 12 x 75cl 73cs
The modern era for this excellent Côtes du Roussillon estate dates from 1985 when the energetic Gérard Gauby took over the family estate. Previously the wines were sold in bulk to the local co-operative, but Gérard took the brave decision to go it alone. Today he is often described as the “uncrowned king of the Roussillon”, having put the region on the fine-wine map. His wines are elegant and modern with great balance and concentration.
Blackcurrant and blackberry fruit fills the nose, with a little spice and pepper on the palate. The wine has firm and grippy tannins, providing great structure and focus.
Bottle
£13.95
Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer
Bottle
£14.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 15cs
The contrast between the whites is just as relevant for the reds. Sotanum, we once found a little too austere; this no longer appears to be the case. There is a harmonious juxtaposition between the quality of the fruit and the firm, resolute tannins. Drink 2013-2018.
Bottle
£15.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 5cs
‘Où sont les Vins d’Antan’, as Villon nearly said. No-one has been more closely involved in the re-emergence of the ancient Vienne vineyards than Pierre-Jean Villa and this powerful, earthy, expressive example underlines both his expertise and the regenerated potential of this famous commune.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Pierre-Jean’s decade as the régisseur at les Vins de Vienne, taking daily control of winemaking as the eminences grises Gaillard, Cuilleron and Villard supervised from a distance, has clearly rubbed off. His Seyssuel wine is outstanding and fantastically different from the Côte-Rôtie, underlining subtly differing terroir and the fact that the mighty Rhône separates the two enclaves.
Bottle
£17.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 7cs
Described by no less an Epicurean than Baudelaire as “un chant plein de lumière et de fraternité”, the wine of Langlade has a long and colourful heritage. Equally colourful, vigneron Rémi Pedrano has made it his life’s worth to demonstrate that “heritage”, in vinous terms, more than often equates to excellence. It certainly does in this instance. A rich and complex blend of Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, the 2012 dances a fine Mediterranean jig, its tannins neatly enrobing the dark fruit, the savoury backdrop graceful and provocative at the same time.
Simon Field MW, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Bottle
£18.25
Bottle 12 x 75cl 7cs
Bottle
£18.55
Bottle 12 x 75cl 8cs
Linear and fine, La Rosine continues to punch way above its weight. This is a spicy yet ripe, fulsome yet restrained assemblage which shows off fine Syrah fruit, expertly crafted for relatively early appreciation. Drink now to 2018.
Bottle
£19.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 43cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off. The 2013 La Rosine Syrah VDP is similar in style to the 2012, with a pretty, perfumed feel in its black cherry, chocolate, floral and peppery bouquet. Medium-bodied, elegant and juicy, drink it over the coming 5-7 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 Dec 2014
Bottle
£20.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 23cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Seyssuel’s schistous sister to Côte Rôtie is always subtly different, perhaps with more obvious bass notes and less immediate silky charm, but as patience can now reveal, its wines age fantastically well and take on a rich savoury complexity with a little bottle age.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
The likeable former régisseur of Les Vins de Vienne is now established as a highly successful vigneron in his own right, his experience and commercial acumen playing no minor part, no doubt, in the acquisition of some prime vineyards, one of which, naturally enough, is located in Seyssuel, which is where Les Vins de Vienne made their name. He views 2012 as both more intense and more interesting than 2011, the tannic structure of the wines in particular underlining the superiority of the later vintage.
Bottle
£23.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 17cs
The 2012 is redolent of the hillsides of Roussillon: aromas of garrigue and fresh black fruit. Black fruit dominates the palate, supported by firm tannins. The finish is long and confident.
Will Heslop - Buying Department
Bottle
£24.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
Bottle
£24.95
Bottle 12 x 75cl 8cs
Stéphane is confident that Seyssuel will eventually get its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, although not, it seems, before having to pass through a stage as a humble Côtes du Rhône. No matter; he has done more than anyone to raise the profile of these rediscovered ancient vines. Their soils resemble Côte Blonde and their aspect approximates that of Hermitage. The happy coincidence of these features has fathered a wine of aromatic harmony and great latent power.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Stéphane has come a long way in the 12 years or so that I have known him: he now has two children, an enviable reputation and a construction project to the south of Ampuis which will result in a winery to rival that of Messrs Guigal. He has also been buying land, which is no mean feat in Côte Rôtie. The challenge of 2013 centred on the cool weather in the middle of the season. Very late green harvesting and then a rapid harvest before the rains in October were key. I recall visiting during the harvest and witnessing a maelstrom of carefully choreographed activity, if you will pardon the apparent contradiction. The effort has certainly paid off.
Bottle
£29.00
Bottle 6 x 75cl 37cs
2011 was a cooler year than some and the wine has silky composure, fine balanced acidity and impressive length.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£34.35
Bottle 6 x 75cl 18cs
Drink 2017-2021.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£35.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 12cs
Decomposed marine deposits and fossils, squeezed between the sea, the Pyrenees and the hills of Corbières, make up the every particular landscape of the Gauby Empire in the heart of Roussillon. 60 year old Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris stand as bush vines and are farmed at parsimonious yields of 15 hl/ha, then barrel fermented and matured in 50% new and 50% one-year old barrels.
The result is an extraordinary elixir; textured, rich and nutty, but with a shard of pure acidity haunting its core adding freshness to the fascinating mid-palate notes of orange, gingerbread and beeswax.
Simon Field MW – Wine Buyer
Bottle
£40.58
Bottle 6 x 75cl 9cs
All wines are unique but some are more unique than others. Domaine Gauby’s La Roque Blanc has few peers among the white wines of Roussillon or anywhere else. Whole bunches of Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains and Muscat of Alexandria macerate for between ten and twenty days – an eternity in the context of white winemaking. Fermentation relies exclusively on indigenous yeasts.
The result is an astonishing array of aromas, including honeysuckle, orange blossom and fresh lemons; honed to a long, precise finish.
Will Heslop - Buying Department
Bottle
£49.00
The wines of Seyssuel may currently be classified as Vin de Pays, but I think the quality easily justifies it having its own appellation. No doubt this will happen as some stage; we will be hearing more and more about this emerging area of the Northern Rhône. A floral nose leads to lots of spicy and smoky notes across the palate. Cool, succulent dark fruit with an attractive creaminess, cleansing acidity and an anise finish. A vin de plaisir
Martin Rolph, Private Account Manager
Elegantly styled and full of quality, this strikes an instant sense of complexity with spicy wild strawberries and black cherries on the nose. A bit of hedonistic pleasure isn’t far behind though as the palate is pure and silky smooth, before soft and clean tannins give a very fresh feel to the finish.
Guy Davies, Wine Team
L’Ame Sœur is now recognised as one of the most successful of the Seyssuel projects, that is to say the vineyards that have been revitalised above Vienne on the East side of the River… the subtle differences in aspect and soil (mica-schist in essence) are captured, enticingly, in an example which glories in pavonine complexity on the finish.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
If one is permitted to assess the quality of a vigneron by the number of eager Antipodean cellar rats helping out at vintage time, then Stéphane Ogier appears to be the man of the moment. If one takes the more traditional approach of assessing quality by analysis of what is in the glass, or what is in the barrel, then he is definitely the man of the moment. He compares it to 2010, which is praise indeed.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 3cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Fine Wine Team
We know all about Stéphane’s reputation in Côte-Rôtie. He is also burdened with the mantle of being the leading producer in the ancient Seyssuel vineyards above Vienne. Micro-schist gives this an extraordinary wine a Côte Blonde elegance, with violets, dense, dark fruit and very finely etched tannins causing one to consider withdrawing the statement made at the end of the La Rosine note above. This too is currently a Vin de Pays, but it is sure to be promoted to full appellation status soon.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer
Stéphane Ogier is now, arguably, the leading producer in Côte-Rôtie. Confident, modest and courteous, in short he is the perfect ambassador for the appellation. Stéphane now farms 12 parcels in Côte-Rôtie and has also launched a well-named Côtes du Rhône (Le Temps est Venu which we will sell elsewhere). He held his nerve through the rainy patches in September and the relatively late-picking has been rewarded with a superb range of wines. Stéphane compares their style, with more acidity and less alcohol than usual, to 2006, a vintage which has developed very nicely indeed.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
(Gary Owen - Fine Wine Department - 29-Nov-2012)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Neboilo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wines has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
Simon Field MW, Berrys' Southern France Buyer
The dominant Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend leads to lovely rich dark fruits and a pleasing sense of style. However, for me the real interest comes from the other varietals that are blended with this, they add real interest to the palate, with meaty, smoky characters coming through and a powerful structure that clearly indicates this will age very well indeed. Mas de Daumas Gassac is a wine with a big reputation and in 2011 it clearly demonstrates why it is in such demand!
Matthew Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager - 29-Nov-2012
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012
Young, dynamic and handsome, Stéphane Ogier has had another good year, purchasing some more prime vineyards, making some fantastic 2010s and celebrating the birth of his first son, Marius. His wine-making philosophy is intriguing, minutely sensitive to the requirements of both the vintage and the parcel in question. As a generalisation he prefers new wood and destemming for the Côte Blonde, and older wood and less destemming in the Côte Brune. But there are always exceptions... and the wines are always exceptional...
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
A propos, the 2010 is an outstanding example and therefore logically will merit a label which captures the colours and contours of a perfect season. The wine repays the compliment; the blend is divided equally between Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, the former lending an elegant Palladian structure, the later bright arboreal colour…..or in wine speak, firm but finely-etched tannins and a measured density of fruit, with blackberry and black cherry to the fore, and behind that hints of bay laurel and distant autumnal bonfires. The achievement of interloping Cabernet Sauvignon into these warm Provençal vineyards has been significant, and has no better illustration than the 2010 vintage.
Simon Field, MW - Wine Buyer