Saint Aubin

From high, east-facing vines close to Chassagne. This is rich and high-toned, with ruby-grapefruit acidity. The finish is long and surprisingly robust, a useful portal to the Bachelet style this year, which captures the rude health of the vintage. Drink 2021-2027


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.

Back in the fold after its obliteration last year. From the steep, south-facing vineyard opposite the winery (the Bachelets are in the lower section, Bas de Gamay), this is tight and pure, with lots of grip. Only two barrels, but serious and bordering on fine. Drink 2022-2028.


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.

From old vines of fine quality, in what may be St Aubin’s best vineyard, this is gorgeous. After a discreet nose, the palate is full of yellow plums, white peaches and some lemon notes with excellent density.

The progress we noted with the 2013 vintage here has been further developed with an excellent range of 2014 wines. Extra details apparent this year are the enhanced use of lees after racking and the minimal use of sulphur without risking oxidation. The Château de Puligny rises a further few notches up the ladder. Étienne de Montille notes that, in 2014, “there was super clean fruit and we could pick at leisure”.

This is pale primrose in appearance, with a more accessible bouquet of spring flowers and light fruits. This is full and fleshy, with medium density through the middle. Note the sapid and saline finish, says Olivier.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

With a pale, bright colour, this has a faint touch of coconut. The oak is nicely integrated with pure, white fruit. There is plenty of wine here, with just a touch of sucrosity which is very pleasing and not at all heavy. Drink 2018-2022.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

The biodynamic Bachelet boys, Benoît and Jean-Baptiste, began picking on 3rd September, reporting  very good yields in white, close to the ideal, but down in red. The whites are superb again this year, scarcely showing any sense of heat, but enjoying excellent concentration with good balancing acidity. I would sign up for this every year, says Jean-Baptiste! As always, the wines will stay in barrel for nearly two years before bottling.

This is a blend of Olivier’s various village parcels. The volume is way down; only five barrels instead of 20, and he declassified a lot to Bourgogne Blanc. This is very fresh, with plenty of racy acidity, very much like the 2014, but without some of the flesh. Drink 2019-2022.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

A fine red colour and a vivid nose of bright red cherries kick off this Red Burgundy grown away from the limelight in St Aubin. It is very fresh for 2009, yet with an intense fruit and a persevering aftertaste. It is lovely now in its refreshing youth, but with more still to develop.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Favourite Newcomers
St. Aubin has a well-earned reputation now, and Olivier Lamy has been at the vanguard in promoting the village to the status it now commands.   His En Remilly is a cuvée to tuck away and allow time to develop its best - 2020 will see this reach its peak, and match many a posher-named Côte de Beaune.
Tom Cave, Fine Wine

A little hail at the top but otherwise En Remilly was spared. Fine, pure and bright, this wine seems to combine finesse and opulence, it is mouth-filling, but still very youthful; a wine of great promise. Superb, but needs time.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Olivier Lamy began harvesting early for certain plots (on 16th September) and then took the time to pick individual vineyards as they ripened. It proved to be a small but perfectly healthy vintage in St Aubin, with superbly concentrated wines. Olivier has decided to use very little new oak; 20% for his red wines and none for the white. The reds didn’t need much sorting and the colours and fruit extract came out very quickly in the fermenting vat. A great vintage chez Lamy but, alas, a very small one, though it is enhanced by the addition of one or two new vineyards.

Lamy's St Aubin En Remilly, 1er Cru is a powerful Burgundy wine, fleshy but firm and has a fascinating, complex bouquet that includes touches of licorice and greengage, and a truly excellent finish.

Brian pondered whether climate change is helping some of Burgundy’s more marginal vineyards, such as En Remilly. St Aubin is now achieving very good levels of ripeness, as here, showing a sweet and honeyed exotic palate, with ripe, grapefruit-esque acidity. Drink 2022-2028.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.