Saint Aubin

From high, east-facing vines close to Chassagne. This is rich and high-toned, with ruby-grapefruit acidity. The finish is long and surprisingly robust, a useful portal to the Bachelet style this year, which captures the rude health of the vintage. Drink 2021-2027


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.

This is pale primrose in appearance, with a more accessible bouquet of spring flowers and light fruits. This is full and fleshy, with medium density through the middle. Note the sapid and saline finish, says Olivier.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

With a pale, bright colour, this has a faint touch of coconut. The oak is nicely integrated with pure, white fruit. There is plenty of wine here, with just a touch of sucrosity which is very pleasing and not at all heavy. Drink 2018-2022.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

The biodynamic Bachelet boys, Benoît and Jean-Baptiste, began picking on 3rd September, reporting  very good yields in white, close to the ideal, but down in red. The whites are superb again this year, scarcely showing any sense of heat, but enjoying excellent concentration with good balancing acidity. I would sign up for this every year, says Jean-Baptiste! As always, the wines will stay in barrel for nearly two years before bottling.

This is a blend of Olivier’s various village parcels. The volume is way down; only five barrels instead of 20, and he declassified a lot to Bourgogne Blanc. This is very fresh, with plenty of racy acidity, very much like the 2014, but without some of the flesh. Drink 2019-2022.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

From an east-facing vineyard with shallow red soil situated on the slope bordering ChassagneMontrachet, there’s around 25 percent new oak here. The cool, rocky site provides elegance and freshness, with a crisp citrus-fruit profile and saline backbone. There is a pleasant touch of struck-match reduction on the finish. Drink 2019-2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

With the move to superb new cellars in the hamlet of Gamay, next to St Aubin, Benoît and Jean-Baptiste Bachelet have taken over from their father Jean-Claude, though he may still be seen with his wartime vintage truck ferrying the grapes at harvest time. The basic principles of a long slow barrelageing for almost two years remain in force, while the state-of-the-art winery has improved consistency. In the vineyard, the brothers have been experimenting with biodynamic viticulture and have plans to extend this across their holdings which are in St Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. With vineyards mostly located in St Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet, the Bachelet brothers – Benoît and Jean-Baptiste – had a torrid time in 2016 thanks to the frost, losing 75 percent of their crop. Despite the terrible spring weather and resultant disease pressure, they stuck to their biodynamic methods. The crop was so small, in fact, that they had to fill 44 unused barrels with water and sulphur dioxide to keep them fresh until they get another decent crop. There is no Chatenière in 2016 and many of the other cuvées are very small indeed.

This vineyard is south of the village of St Aubin, bordering the Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru vineyard Les Chaumées. Its east-facing aspect gives the wine a lot of energy in this warm year. Drink 2023-2027.

For this wine, Olivier likes to make a millefeuille in the cuve for fermentation – layering whole bunches and de-stemmed fruit, to better integrate the tannins. The result is proper, crunchy Pinot Noir. Drink 2021-2026.

This is opposite the Bachelet winery. The exposition is southwest and steep. There are only two barrels this year, but the wine offers an almost savoury, Chassagne-like intensity. Drink 2023-2027.

A fine red colour and a vivid nose of bright red cherries kick off this Red Burgundy grown away from the limelight in St Aubin. It is very fresh for 2009, yet with an intense fruit and a persevering aftertaste. It is lovely now in its refreshing youth, but with more still to develop.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director