Saint Aubin

Again, this is an attractive pale primrose colour. Its rich, beguiling nose is redolent of pears and plums. The weight is there: it’s soft, rounded and mouthfilling, very complete, very long and with enough tension. This is completed by a superb finish with a little lively lemony note.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

This is a blend of Olivier’s various village parcels. The volume is way down; only five barrels instead of 20, and he declassified a lot to Bourgogne Blanc. This is very fresh, with plenty of racy acidity, very much like the 2014, but without some of the flesh. Drink 2019-2022.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

Lamy's St Aubin En Remilly, 1er Cru is a powerful Burgundy wine, fleshy but firm and has a fascinating, complex bouquet that includes touches of licorice and greengage, and a truly excellent finish.

Of Olivier’s vineyards, this is the closest to PulignyMontrachet, in this case the Premier Cru Champ Gain. Olivier started picking on 16th September, quite a bit earlier than his neighbours, but his work in the vineyards means he gets phenolic ripeness earlier. The resulting wine is another sleeper; there’s a steely tension to the wine that should be allowed to resolve itself, and the aromatics will blossom. Drink 2021-2027. Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

Brian pondered whether climate change is helping some of Burgundy’s more marginal vineyards, such as En Remilly. St Aubin is now achieving very good levels of ripeness, as here, showing a sweet and honeyed exotic palate, with ripe, grapefruit-esque acidity. Drink 2022-2028.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.

This vineyard is on the western side of the Mont Rachet, close to Puligny-Montrachet. This has a plumper feel to the palate, with more of the mealy, oaty character of that appellation. Not to be underestimated, there is splendid intensity to match the fruit and energy of the wine. Drink 2021-2027. Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.

From high, east-facing vines close to Chassagne. This is rich and high-toned, with ruby-grapefruit acidity. The finish is long and surprisingly robust, a useful portal to the Bachelet style this year, which captures the rude health of the vintage. Drink 2021-2027


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.

This vineyard is also home to Olivier’s extraordinary high-density Chardonnay at 28,000 vines per hectare, but on the lower slopes he has some Pinot Noir. The wine saw 50 percent whole-bunch, as usual, producing a fresh and juicy example of 2017. Drink 2021-2024.


This is another small harvest for Olivier. There was frost again in 2017 for the vineyards closest to Puligny and Oliviers detailed vineyard work on the vines badly frosted in 2016 has restricted this years yield as well. For some cuves, volumes in white for 2017 are half that of the already paltry 2016. Olivier began harvesting before his neighbours, which is not unusual, on 25th August, but he likes the style of the vintage, in particular the extra density on the palate. His reds he defines as croquant (crunchy).

Back in the fold after its obliteration last year. From the steep, south-facing vineyard opposite the winery (the Bachelets are in the lower section, Bas de Gamay), this is tight and pure, with lots of grip. Only two barrels, but serious and bordering on fine. Drink 2022-2028.


Despite the localised frosts in 2017, Bachelets yields this year are similar to 2015 and close to the average of recent years. Benot and Jean-Baptiste began the harvest on 30th August with the warmer sites of En Remilly, Blanchot Dessus and Bienvenues, and finished on 8th September in the lower-lying Derrire la Tour. Benot commented on how clean and healthy the fruit was this year; there was a little bit of mildew in the spring, but otherwise the year was problem-free. An honest, precise vintage, inhis view.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Favourite Newcomers
St. Aubin has a well-earned reputation now, and Olivier Lamy has been at the vanguard in promoting the village to the status it now commands.   His En Remilly is a cuvée to tuck away and allow time to develop its best - 2020 will see this reach its peak, and match many a posher-named Côte de Beaune.
Tom Cave, Fine Wine

A little hail at the top but otherwise En Remilly was spared. Fine, pure and bright, this wine seems to combine finesse and opulence, it is mouth-filling, but still very youthful; a wine of great promise. Superb, but needs time.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Olivier Lamy began harvesting early for certain plots (on 16th September) and then took the time to pick individual vineyards as they ripened. It proved to be a small but perfectly healthy vintage in St Aubin, with superbly concentrated wines. Olivier has decided to use very little new oak; 20% for his red wines and none for the white. The reds didn’t need much sorting and the colours and fruit extract came out very quickly in the fermenting vat. A great vintage chez Lamy but, alas, a very small one, though it is enhanced by the addition of one or two new vineyards.

This is made from one old-vine block and one which has been top-grafted from red. Some gunflint, the wine has a tight, concentrated, mineral nose, not lush, but very classy and intense. The palate has tingling minerals with a huge weight of fruit behind, lively and impressive. The vintage worked really well here. Drink 2018-2023.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The harvest began on 28th August, with acceptable but still slightly low volumes, very similar to the immediately previous vintages. Already certified as organic, the château’s wines will also be certified (Biodivin) as biodynamic from 2017. This has become a seriously good address for white Burgundy in recent vintages. The 2015s have an excellent weight of fruit married to good acidity.

During the last year, Etienne de Montille, who has run Château de Puligny-Montrachet for the last decade, bought out the previous owners. 2012 will therefore be the first vintage of the new regime and also the first which will be fully certified organic after completion of the necessary three years. In 2011 the Château has produced a good crop of white wines, with old-fashioned low alcohol levels in both the reds and whites: wines originally found to be around 12% abv have been adjusted to 12.5% abv, anything above that was untouched. This lovely wine has an attractive perfume of little white flowers, stones and a fresh herb or two greet the nose of this wine. It is really striking, with perfect pitch and poise, whilst also being very refreshing. Very enjoyable.
Jasper Morris MW,  Burgundy Director