Saint Aubin

Again, this is an attractive pale primrose colour. Its rich, beguiling nose is redolent of pears and plums. The weight is there: it’s soft, rounded and mouthfilling, very complete, very long and with enough tension. This is completed by a superb finish with a little lively lemony note.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

This is pale primrose in appearance, with a more accessible bouquet of spring flowers and light fruits. This is full and fleshy, with medium density through the middle. Note the sapid and saline finish, says Olivier.

Olivier Lamy went through his red vineyards three times before the 2014 harvest to remove any damaged berries, which especially posed a risk on the clay soils. The white crop, meanwhile, was superb, with healthy grapes and a respectable yield; picking began on 12th September. Olivier notes excellent definition between the different terroirs, which he says is typical of a cooler year. He plans to give the whites a slightly longer élevage than usual, while using minimal new oak, about 10 percent for the Premiers Crus.

From old vines of fine quality, in what may be St Aubin’s best vineyard, this is gorgeous. After a discreet nose, the palate is full of yellow plums, white peaches and some lemon notes with excellent density.

The progress we noted with the 2013 vintage here has been further developed with an excellent range of 2014 wines. Extra details apparent this year are the enhanced use of lees after racking and the minimal use of sulphur without risking oxidation. The Château de Puligny rises a further few notches up the ladder. Étienne de Montille notes that, in 2014, “there was super clean fruit and we could pick at leisure”.

The perfectionist Olivier first picked the younger vines, then came back for the older ones. The nose has a certain opulence while the palate delivers a long, lean finish. The wine appears to want to deliver peaches but finishes with apples. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Lamy compares the 2015 reds as being similar to ‘05 with less stress, or ‘09 with more energy. As they offered good colour and tannin, he was able to use 60 to 80 percent whole bunches. Picking began on 25th August, starting with whites to keep their acidity. Overall, however, the red crop is down 50 percent and the whites by 20 to 25 percent thanks to coulure and millerandage after the flowering. Olivier has used no new wood in 2015 and no sulphur for the vinification – some will be added before bottling. Olivier notes that the whites have been tasting fresher and fresher during their time in barrel.

Pale lemon in colour, this has delicious, pure fruit on the nose, spring blossoms and some light pear notes. There is fresh apple on the palate, lean and steely, but some flesh reappears at the back. Good length. This is a very promising wine for the medium term. Drink 2018-2022.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Olivier Lamy compares the 2015 reds as being similar to ‘05 with less stress, or ‘09 with more energy. As they offered good colour and tannin, he was able to use 60 to 80 percent whole bunches. Picking began on 25th August, starting with whites to keep their acidity. Overall, however, the red crop is down 50 percent and the whites by 20 to 25 percent thanks to coulure and millerandage after the flowering. Olivier has used no new wood in 2015 and no sulphur for the vinification – some will be added before bottling. Olivier notes that the whites have been tasting fresher and fresher during their time in barrel.

This is from 55-year-old vines. Olivier likes to do 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation, allowing him to layer whole bunches and de-stemmed berries alternately (millefeuille). This has a lovely, accessible, juicy, raspberry-sundae fruit and the tannins are light but supportive. Drink 2021-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.