Nuits Saint Georges

Our 2016 Nuits-St Georges has once again been made for us by the talented Benjamin Leroux. We have blended the fruit of two vineyards — Aux St Jacques and Les Fleuriöres — to paint a complete picture of the appellation. The former provides floral perfume, elegant tannins and red berry fruit, while the latter gives structure, spice and black fruit. It's an irresistible combination which should be enjoyed now or over the next few years. Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Maxime Rion now makes most of the decisions at this exemplary estate, although he can call on his father Patrice – approaching his 40th vintage as a winemaker – for guidance. The Rions are a talented, forward-thinking family who were among the first in Burgundy to bottle some of their wines under screwcap, and whose eco-friendly tractor shed boasts solar panels and a rainwater purification system.

This is a fresh, fruit-driven Burgundy from vineyards just above Nuits-St Georges. It is raised exclusively in used oak, which rounds the tannins and accentuates the wild, spicy character redolent of Nuits. Drink now to 2021.

Situated just above the vineyards of Nuits-St Georges, Les Dames Huguettes is at an altitude of 300 to 450 metres, giving the wine a vivacious freshness and vibrancy. The fruit is crunchy with a cool freshness, chalky tannins and a touch of spice which gives a nod to Nuits. Drink 2019-2024.

Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.

A blend of domaine fruit and purchased grapes from a trusted neighbour, this is benchmark Nuits. The nose has sweet Asian spices and spicy, dark berry fruit. The palate is pure, saline and savoury, an elegant and delicate expression of Nuits rather than a meaty blockbuster. Drink 2020-2025.

Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.

Half the fruit here is from the domaine, the rest is bought in from their next-door neighbour. Very much in the Rion style, this has a compact core of plum and blackberry fruit, and no shortage of worthy tannins. It’s not as lush as some 2016s, and none the worse for that. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Patrice Rion and his wife Michèle began their own small domaine in 1990 with just two wines, Bourgogne Rouge, Les Bons Bâtons and Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, while Patrice was still working as winemaker with his family at Domaine Daniel Rion. In 2000 Patrice left the family business to develop his own estate further. Today most of the vineyards are in Nuits-St Georges and Chambolle-Musigny. Recent vintages have seen the increasing involvement of Patrice’s son Maxime. The Rion cellar is a bit emptier this year, partially because of the frost but also, more significantly, because their arrangement in Chambolle for Villages, Fuées, Amoureuses and Bonnes Mares has terminated, and 2015 was the last vintage of those lovely wines. Maxime Rion initially found the 2016s a little “monolithic” after fermentation, but they have discovered their terroir in barrel. The vintage shows more red fruit than black, with the fruit of frosted vineyards having more colour. The long, cool end of season reminds him of 1996 but, whereas that vintage is only starting to drink now, the 2016s will open up earlier. The estate also has a new wine, a Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits from the Dames Huguettes vineyard. It’s made from bought-in fruit, but chosen from an especially well-sited and tended vineyard.

An attractive pale pink-purple with quite a reticent nose. It is in the mouth that the quality shows, with a swelling density of fruit, a very special touch of silky tannins, and no undue acidity behind.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

The harvest began with whites on 26^th September, before the rain, then the reds were brought in during less good weather, with sorting necessary. The stems were ripe enough to allow for whole bunch vinification, and Pierre has chosen the soft pedal in 2013: not much punching down, more an infusion approach, less new wood and perhaps a shorter time in barrel. Pierre can see some elements of 2008 but with more weight, more flattering wines overall.

Medium deep red-purple, this has beautiful elegance for a Nuits-St Georges; a really graceful wine which also has impressive density. Very lovely.

The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.

The 30 percent whole-bunch component has done wonders for this wine. Beautiful, fresh purple colour, with just a touch of crushed strawberry, this is actually very sensual. There is a fine sense of liveliness at the back and a marvellous, sweet, ripe raspberry fruit, really heavenly. Drink 2022-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

With more than 35 vintages under his belt, Patrice Rion considers that 2015 is the finest of his career, offering elegance, acidity and persistence. They began picking on 5th September and finished before the rain which arrived the following weekend. The only sorting that needed doing was to remove any dried-out berries. The yields were acceptable, just 10 percent down in volume on the previous vintage. Unusually, Patrice and his son Maxime have used some whole bunches on certain cuvées, notably the Clos des Argillières and Clos St Marc.

The old vines here always yield well under the maximum permitted level, a real boon in 2017 as it ensured there was sufficient concentration in the fruit. Around 30 percent new oak was used this year, giving a supporting spice note to the rich, griotte fruit and liquorice touches. There’s plenty of structure and a long finish. Drink 2021-2027.

Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.

This vineyard sits across the road from the house, with quite deep (two metres) topsoil over marne. Very typically Nuits, there’s plenty of black fruit and sweet spice on the nose, while the palate offers red and black cherry, and some floral touches. Weighty, dense and concentrated with a rocky, limestone texture to the tannins; it’s deep, dense, complex and age-worthy. Drink 2023-2030.

Patrice explains that the hard work they did at the start of the year in pruning short and carrying out a severe de-budding, as well as a little green harvesting on younger vines, paid dividends in terms of avoiding excessive yields and consequent dilution. The dry and warm conditions towards the end of the season allowed them the luxury of choosing when to harvest, in fact beginning on 9th September. Patrice compares the vintage to 1979 and 1989, highlighting the wines’ impeccable balance and freshness (the latter he prefers over power) as particular strengths. Our notes indicate whether the wines are domaine or négoce bottlings.

Thibault particularly likes the clay limestone mix in the soil here. The wine has attractive succulent fruit, juicy through the middle, with perfect acid balance. This was really successful this year.

Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.

The 2014 glows with an imperial purple. This is absolutely mouth-filling, with ripe, dark fruit. Beautifully balanced, this has a generous style without being plummy – long and very fine.

Patrice Rion compares 2014 to a mix of 1979 and 1989 for the aromatics and delighted to have been able to pick a more or less normal-sized crop. He began on 12th September with healthy grapes, reinforced by his system of two sorting tables, one before and one after de-stemming. The amount of new oak has been reduced here, now just 30 percent on most cuvées.

Dense and bright to the eye, there is uplifting fruit on the nose here which is quite floral too and led by violets. Not unduly weighty but with Frdric Mugniers usual marvellous purity of style, this wine is beautifully proportioned, a Nuits-St Georges combining fruit, finesse and persistence.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

2010 is the perfect sort of vintage to please Frdric Mugnier. Balance, elegance, discretion, length of flavour, only the small size of the crop is to be regretted. The final decision has not been made but it seems likely that all the Clos de la Marchale fruit in 2010 will make it into the main wine and the second wine Clos des Fourches will not be produced.

This wine boasts expansive fruit and great concentration. Dense vivid purple in the glass, it has extra layers in the mouth and will go the distance. There is exceptional weight and some complexity, but above all glowing, exuberant fruit. This makes a very complete mouthful with fabulous density, from 70-year-old vines.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Sébastien Cathiard began his second vintage in charge on 22nd September. He has made approximately the same volume of wine in 2012 as 2011, except in the Nuits-St Georges vineyards, but, alas, 2013 will be even less. There are no significant changes to his father’s style, except some progress towards organic viticulture. Sébastien currently uses 2/3 new wood for village wines and 100% for most Premiers Crus. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed before vinification. Note how many cuvées have the benefit of old vines. but fabulous quality.

A fine, precise Nuits-St Georges from a hillside site, this was late to finish its malolactic fermentation, so the fruit is more backward. Bright purple, with a darkish style of fruit, it is pleasingly intense, with weight, persistence and some mineral notes. Drink 2022-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.