Domaine Coche-Dury

Domaine Coche-Dury

Robert Parker describes Jean-François Coche-Dury as "one of the greatest winemakers on planet earth", and few would beg to differ. Painfully small yields and meticulously precise winemaking are what give the wines their character and intensity. His top wines spend an astonishing 22 months in barriques and are lightly fined but never filtered prior to bottling.

What is it that makes a domaine a cult? This is arguably the most sought after internationally of all white Burgundy domaines. You might expect to be able to put a finger on why the wines are so good. Are the yields low? Not exceptionally. Is there some wizardry during the vinification or élévage? Sometimes I think it is just that Jean François Coche-Dury has green fingers! His reds are beautiful, perfumed wines as well, though mostly from lesser appellations. They are destalked and only lightly extracted during a relatively short vinification. They can be an excellent inexpensive choice in restaurants.

These are exceptionally intense, powerful and long-lived wines. They are full bodied but never cloying, with the concentrated fruit always being underpinned by crisp and balanced acidity.
 
Jean-Francois Coche officially retired in 2010 but there will clearly be continuity of style in the hands of his son Raphael who has been working alongside his father since 2003. There have been some changes already in the detail: the vineyards are now all ploughed, and a pneumatic press has been ordered to work alongside the old mechanical Vaslin.
 
The wines are firmly crushed before pressing, which must surely be a factor in the Coche-Dury style, then fermented and matured in barrels using a relatively low percentage of new wood, not exceeding 25% except for the very top wines. The whites are racked in July, when the barrels of a given cuvée are blended, then returned to cask for a second winter, being bottled cask by cask in April of their second year. It should be noted that bottles labelled Meursault without designation of vineyard may come from different vineyards. For example the cuvées of Narvaux, Chaumes and Vireuils are kept separate, though each importer will know which he has ordered and received.
 
My first two visits in Burgundy, as a fledgling merchant in 1981, were to Lafon and Coche-Dury. At that stage and with the money available I felt I could not work with both, so chose the former. Would that I had had the common sense or courage to have taken up allocations from both, which were then available!. As if to rub it in, I found a bottle of 1985 Meursault Rougeots lurking in the back of my cellar in 2008 and it was a sublime bottle of wine, having reached its peak of flavour in unhurried fashion.

Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.

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£182.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2017 Auxey-Duresses Rouge, Domaine Coche Dury, Burgundy
Red
2017
For laying down
Full Bodied
Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£194.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2015 Auxey Duresses Rouge, Domaine Coche Dury, Burgundy
Red
2015
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Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£362.68 – bottle (75cl)
Berrys' Carton
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2005 Volnay 1er Cru, Jean François Coche Dury
Red
2005
Ready, but will keep
Full Bodied
Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£626.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2005 Meursault Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury
White
2005
Ready, but will keep
Full Bodied
Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£1,070.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2016 Meursault, Les Rougeots, Domaine J-F Coche Dury, Burgundy
White
2016
Ready, but will improve
Medium Bodied
Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£1,203.00 – bottle (75cl)
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2000 Meursault, Caillerets, Jean François Coche Dury
White
2000
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Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£1,262.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2010 Meursault, Caillerets, 1er Cru, Domaine Coche Dury
White
2010
Ready, but will improve
Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£1,532.68 – bottle (75cl)
Berrys' Carton Limited availability
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2011 Meursault, Les Genevrières, Domaine Coche-Dury
White
2011
Ready, but will improve
Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£1,562.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2016 Meursault, Genevrières, 1er Cru, Domaine Coche-Dury, Burgundy
White
2016
Ready, but will keep
Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£1,683.00 – bottle (75cl)
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2008 Meursault, Les Genevrières, Domaine Coche-Dury
White
2008
Ready, but will keep
Medium Bodied
Dry
12.5% Alcohol
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£1,803.00 – bottle (75cl)
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2011 Meursault, Perrieres, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean François Coche Dury
White
2011
Ready, but will improve
Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£2,402.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2016 Meursault, Perrières, 1er Cru Domaine Jean François Coche Dury
White
2016
Ready, but will improve
Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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£2,402.68 – bottle (75cl)
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2000 Meursault, Perrieres, 1er Cru Domaine Jean François Coche Dury
White
2000
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Medium Bodied
Dry
13.0% Alcohol
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