Corton-Charlemagne
Two specific vineyards, En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne, make up half of this appellation, while white grapes grown in seven others may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in style between a south-facing location such as Pougets, which needs picking at the start of the harvest, and the western slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses which might be picked weeks later.
This was a near-perfect harvest for Sylvain, with scarcely any need to sort the healthy grapes, and better volumes across the piece apart from a little hail in Ladoix. He has cut back on his négociant activities and all the wines below are from his own domaine. The whites are predictably beautiful this year and the reds much less reductive than in the past.
Franck Follin-Arbelet reports a relatively small crop, after a difficult flowering (too hot and dry) and some hail in Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Nonetheless the grapes resisted the damp middle of the summer well and ripened properly at the end. Harvest began on 13th September and though the sorting table was needed to remove hail damage and dried grapes, the results here are very successful in 2014.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
Benjamin Leroux has managed to produce almost as much wine in 2010 as he did in 2009. Some of his grape contracts were short because of the low crop in 2010, but he has been able to compensate with some new sources of supply. 2010, Benjamin’s fourth vintage, looks to be a great success in both colours here. Included in this selection is a cuvée of Volnay Santenots from the Hospices de Beaune whose élévage we entrusted to Benjamin.
With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).
Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
This great domaine has grown even further with the acquisition of some vineyards, such as Meursault Perrières, to enhance the white wine range, vinified by Alix de Montille. The reds continue the progress seen in recent years from the team led by Etienne de Montille with the assistance of cellarmaster Brian Sieve. All the top wines are vinified with 100% whole bunches which defines the very perfumed style of the domaine’s wines
After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power.
Franck emphasised the importance of removing excess shoots and buds on the vine early in the season to ensure yields did not become excessive, a practice he encouraged his growers to follow. The results are evident in the wines, which display wonderful concentration and texture, generosity in the mid-palate, precise, direct fruit and a sapid acidity. The excellent natural balance of the wines made vinification relatively straightforward and has yielded wines which Franck describes as “serious” and, in many respects, comparable to the 2014s. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director
After several years surrounded by building works, David Croix now has a smart new cellar to play with, as well as the three new vineyards from the hill of Corton which arrived just in time for the 2009 vintage. This year all the vineyard work has been done by Davids own team which has made a difference. It is a beautiful range of wines overall, everything delivering just a little bit more than the appellations suggest. The Beaunes were picked from September 21st to the 23rd, the Cortons the following week.
Whilst this is as full and powerful as you’d expect from a Corton, it is the precision of the apple, pear and citrus fruit, and the steely minerality that really impressed me. Very expressive and vibrant with huge energy, it is a remarkable Grand Cru white.
Martyn Rolph, Private Account Manager
Striking and displaying a sparkling, stony character on the nose, there is plenty of energy here. It is medium bodied on the palate, with ripe fruit underpinned by a classical stony feel. Once again, this is a very fine example of Corton-Charlemagne.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
Based in Premeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines have subsequently been made by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages. This is Pierre Vincent’s last vintage, as he is now installed at Domaine Leflaive. Vougeraie is very happy with this year’s result, another domaine to call the vintage “très Bourguigonne”, meaning that the precision and purity of the fruit means this is more terroir-focused than 2015’s broader and more intense style. They are also very happy with the way the frosted and non-frosted vines finally ripened homogenously, giving much of the credit to their biodynamic culture. Given the health of the berries, a lot of whole bunches were used at fermentation.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.
David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
Franck Follin-Arbelet has created an estate in Aloxe-Corton where his ancestors used to have vineyards in the late 19th century, before they were subsequently sold off. As a child he spent holidays in the village, working part time in the vineyards and in due course marrying a local girl whose family had some vines – enough for Franck to set up as a vigneron in 1993, subsequently adding further vines through rental agreements. Franck Follin was caught between two emotions when we visited him in the autumn; his immediate thoughts were of the 2017 harvest, which represents the largest crop he has made, while we were there to taste his smallest ever vintage, 2016. With the exception of Corton- Charlemagne, Corton-Bressandes and Romanée-St Vivant, everything was very badly hit by frost. Despite this, Franck is delighted with the quality, declaring 2016 a classic vintage with good concentration and great ageing potential.