Corton-Charlemagne

A blend of grapes from En Charlemagne and from Le Corton, where the vines were planted in 1937. Fine, pale straw, exotic, spicy and long, crunchy fruit with a little fresh lime. Something of everything. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Sylvain began to pick his 2013s on 30th September. Some whites have been in bottle since early July, and some reds may also be bottled a little earlier than usual. Sylvain doesn't see a long elevage this year as he wants to avoid the whites becoming too fat. The reds have 10 to 20% whole bunch fermentation.

One of the few of Franck’s vineyards not to have been severely damaged by frost, 2016 sees the introduction of a new parcel in Le Charlemagne, which had formerly been planted to Pinot Noir. The younger vines and sunny exposition add an extra dimension of exuberant peach and pineapple fruit to the more mineral, saline wine from the original parcel. The resultant blend gives a wine of even greater complexity and intensity. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Franck Follin-Arbelet has created an estate in Aloxe-Corton where his ancestors used to have vineyards in the late 19th century, before they were subsequently sold off. As a child he spent holidays in the village, working part time in the vineyards and in due course marrying a local girl whose family had some vines – enough for Franck to set up as a vigneron in 1993, subsequently adding further vines through rental agreements. Franck Follin was caught between two emotions when we visited him in the autumn; his immediate thoughts were of the 2017 harvest, which represents the largest crop he has made, while we were there to taste his smallest ever vintage, 2016. With the exception of Corton- Charlemagne, Corton-Bressandes and Romanée-St Vivant, everything was very badly hit by frost. Despite this, Franck is delighted with the quality, declaring 2016 a classic vintage with good concentration and great ageing potential.

The grapes for this are purchased, from parcels facing Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix and Pernand-Vergelesses, which gives a complete reading of the terroir of the vineyard. The nose has notes of stone fruit, a little pineapple and just a whiff of bacon fat. The palate is rich and dense with a warming ripeness, but all the while underpinned by a citrus core of acidity. An excellent Corton-Charlemagne. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long-aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. Winemaker Franck Grux is very pleased with the quality of the 2016 vintage, although he explained that the frost damage caused grapes to ripen at different times, which required a great deal of patience and necessitated extending the harvest to three weeks, as opposed to the normal two. The Puligny vineyards were relatively lucky in terms of frost damage, giving good yields. Franck explained that he carried out more lees stirring in 2016 than in 2015 to give the wines more weight, feeling that 2016 is a vintage with comparatively modest body and ripeness. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

When purchased in 2004, the vineyard was planted with Pinot Noir but, being southeast facing and with a light and slightly gravelly soil, it was felt it would be a better suited to Chardonnay. Nevertheless, a vineyard capable of ripening red grapes will endow a white wine with a certain opulence and, against the stricter style from Corton-Charlemagne round the hill towards Pernand, this is veritably exotic. The vineyard wasn’t frosted and the wine is positive and direct. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Brisk, bright colour with a fine, green tint; there is a huge wealth of white fruit, peaches and pears, all coiled within a beautiful corset of minerals. Vibrant, intense, persistent; this is one of his very best.

Patrick likes the freshness and purity of 2014, with nothing that hints at vulgarity. He compares the vintage to 2002 and the best of 2004. Elegance is the hallmark of 2014 but there is good body too, with the wines coming in at or just over 13 percent alcohol. The wines were bottled in the autumn.

Pure and pale in colour, with a magical glowing intensity of white fruit, some lemon and lime notes and a great stony purity – indeed the precision of the detail is spectacular. This has lovely flesh, perfect balance and is very fine indeed.

Franck Follin-Arbelet reports a relatively small crop, after a difficult flowering (too hot and dry) and some hail in Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Nonetheless the grapes resisted the damp middle of the summer well and ripened properly at the end. Harvest began on 13th September and though the sorting table was needed to remove hail damage and dried grapes, the results here are very successful in 2014.

From Rognet et Corton, an east-facing vineyard, the colour is again light – pale lemon and lime. There is significant density to the nose, one can feel the latent power. There is really significant weight on the palate too and the requisite stoniness. This will be impressive with time. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Croix would be happy to see 2015 more often. He began picking his whites early in September and the reds from the 7th through to the last Grand Cru on the 18th. Some areas showed a bit of drought but otherwise it was a textbook growing season. It was still necessary to judge ripeness levels correctly though, opines David. The evidence of this range is that he has done so. Very promising white wines, too.

This is fine, bright, fresh and clear. It has a lovely weight of fruit with a little toast but there is huge energy too, with a soft fleshy coating. The natural stony vibrancy of this wine soon comes up to displace the toast and you can feel the sunshine. It will benefit from the next few months in barrel. Drink 2020-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

After three miserable harvests (in size) and with the 2016 catastrophe to come, Patrick Javillier is very happy with 2015 which at last constituted a “normal” crop. He began picking on 28th August, deliberately very early, as the degrees were already there (around 13) but still with an excellent acid balance. His wines are suave, juicy and yet appealingly fresh in 2015.

Patrick Javilliers south-facing holding of Corton-Charlemagne never has any trouble in ripening sufficiently to make superb wine. This Corton- Charlemagne is a rich, powerful, fleshy wine with an all-important mineral core lying just under the surface which will be revealed over the years to come.

A golden style Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine des Croix with attractive ripe fruit aromas, including traces of banana and coconut. This wine has a delightful freshness behind, followed up with attractive mineralty.

Bright pale yellow. At first the nose is completely closed, but fruit begins to emerge as it warms up. Some fresh apricot and white peaches perhaps. Full and fleshy on the palate yet with a beautiful, fresh, stony finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Domaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etiennes sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.

Burgundy 2011 En Primeur Best Buys - Grand Crus

Whilst this is as full and powerful as you’d expect from a Corton, it is the precision of the apple, pear and citrus fruit, and the steely minerality that really impressed me. Very expressive and vibrant with huge energy, it is a remarkable Grand Cru white.
Martyn Rolph, Private Account Manager

Striking and displaying a sparkling, stony character on the nose, there is plenty of energy here. It is medium bodied on the palate, with ripe fruit underpinned by a classical stony feel. Once again, this is a very fine example of Corton-Charlemagne.
Jasper Morris MW,Berrys' Burgundy Director

Pierre Vincent’s reputation has been blossoming over the last few vintages, as critic’s rate his wines increasingly highly and repeated success at the International Wine Challenge has been rewarded with the Len Evans Trophy for consistency over 5 years. Pierre is looking to major on delicacy while building persistence, to which end the new oak component is being reduced and the whole bunch fermentation percentage increased. The Vougeraie 2011s were picked over 12 days, beginning on the 31st August.

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Jean Charles le Bault de la Moriniere described 2009 as ‘probably a once in a lifetime kind of vintage simply because the climatic conditions were so remarkable’ and the 2009 Corton Charlemagne is a regal wine combining elegance and richness. We tasted this in the office a few weeks ago and we were impressed. The 2009 Corton Charlemagne is extremely well knitted together,  has a powerful core of white apples and stony minerality, which seamlessly flows into an fabulously long length. A wine that exceeded our expectations and though approachable now, it will reward a few years cellaring. 
(Fergus Stewart - Berrys Fine Wine Department - 30-Jan-2013)

A solid, powerful wine in 2009, this may not yet show the detail or the fragrance that will come with time but already evidences remarkable body and concentration of fruit. The domaine’s principal wine (alongside a small production of red Corton), it is clear that this has been lovingly crafted and, when ready, will no doubt take up its crown as one of the most magnificent white wines of the vintage.
(Jasper Morris MW - Berrys Burgundy Buyer)

The nose is very closed in its youth but nevertheless it is a very fine example of this Grand Cru with a steely intensity, a bevy of dancing minerals and real power at the back of the palate – as well as a very long finish.

This is only from the Le Charlemagne section of the vineyard, hence the omission of the Corton element in the title. There are two parcels, one by the cross and the other towards Pernand, which has more clay, harvested a week apart in 2016. This is very fine and poised, with elegant lines. There is a saying that this vineyard makes great wine in good red wine vintages; a promising omen. The cool, crystalline precision of the finish is a delight. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Based in Premeaux, just south of Nuits-St Georges, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to group together all the vineyard holdings of the various négociant companies he had acquired over the years. Pascal Marchand was put in charge in 1999, with Bernard Zito in the vineyards, which are farmed biodynamically. Pascal produced powerful wines, fairly heavily extracted in his early vintages but clearly moving to a softer style by 2004. The wines have subsequently been made by Pierre Vincent who has maintained the more delicate approach. Top-quality vineyards continue to be added, especially Grand Cru whites in recent vintages. This is Pierre Vincent’s last vintage, as he is now installed at Domaine Leflaive. Vougeraie is very happy with this year’s result, another domaine to call the vintage “très Bourguigonne”, meaning that the precision and purity of the fruit means this is more terroir-focused than 2015’s broader and more intense style. They are also very happy with the way the frosted and non-frosted vines finally ripened homogenously, giving much of the credit to their biodynamic culture. Given the health of the berries, a lot of whole bunches were used at fermentation.

The first vineyard to be picked, this is pale yellow in colour, with an orange blossom nose that is ripe and charming. Some stony elements appear underneath the floral notes. There is good acidity to the finish and certainly persistence. Drink 2019-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

The vines’ location only in the Pougets section of the Grand Cru, south-facing and on marl, means that warm years can create a rather amply proportioned wine, and Patrick took care to harvest early enough to retain sufficient balance. Not as exotic as last year, but full, rich and exciting. Drink 2025-2035.

Since our visit last year, Patrick’s dream of an appellation exclusively for generic wines from the Côte d’Or has been realised and the label of the estate’s estimable Cuvée Oligocène proudly announces its new status. For 2017, Patrick’s daughter Marion explained, they didn’t need to keep too much of the lees, as the musts were already rich and they preferred to use bâtonnage for complexity. Harvesting began on 28th August and Marion feels there is a purer expression of terroir this year than last.

From the west-facing Le Charlemagne vineyard, the vines here are planted on Pernand marl soil which gives an almost tannic mineral structure to the wine. This is very intense and concentrated, with plenty of weight on the palate, crystalline acidity and a dense, chewy finish. Seriously impressive. Drink 2024-2032.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

With intriguing banana and pineapple notes and beautifully plump fruit on the palate, this Corton-Charlemagne Le Charlemagne Grand Cru from la Vougeraie has a fabulous vibrating energy and a wonderfully long finish.

From the Pernand-Vergelesses side, this superb wine ticks all of the boxes. It has the richness of Grand Cru, a bundle of minerals behind and plenty of weight.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Benjamin Leroux has managed to produce almost as much wine in 2010 as he did in 2009. Some of his grape contracts were short because of the low crop in 2010, but he has been able to compensate with some new sources of supply. 2010, Benjamin’s fourth vintage, looks to be a great success in both colours here. Included in this selection is a cuvée of Volnay Santenots from the Hospices de Beaune whose élévage we entrusted to Benjamin.

Grace and power define this wine. There is a gentle nuance of lime flower and oak on the nose yet the palate displays a huge, round ball of fruit backed by scintillating minerality and a very persistent finish. Drink 2015-2025.