Corton-Charlemagne

From the west-facing Le Charlemagne, the vines are planted on marl soil which gives an almost tannic, mineral structure to the wine. This has lovely fruit ripeness and lots of energy, culminating in a very chalky, pithy finish. The absence of new oak serves to preserve the freshness of the pristine fruit. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune was bought in 2005 by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. The estate has been renamed Domaine des Croix, in honour of David and also the numerous stone crosses to be found in the vineyards. The original Beaune and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards have since been supplemented by Aloxe-Corton, Corton La Vigne au Saint and Corton Grèves. The vineyards are farmed organically. The only thing David Croix doesn’t like in 2016 is the lack of volume. He was full of praise for the quality of the vintage, explaining that the grapes were very healthy at harvest despite the difficult season, and said the aromas in the winery during fermentation were glorious. He describes the wines as “harmonious, with nothing that is out of balance”. No Bourgogne was made this year, there are tiny volumes of village wines and several of the Beaune Premiers Crus have been blended to make a single wine. In fact, only Corton-Charlemagne has achieved anything like a normal yield.

This year, this is a blend of Le Corton, facing Ladoix to the southeast, and Les Languettes, which looks south towards Aloxe-Corton. With one-third new oak, this represents a benchmark style of Corton-Charlemagne; there is ample weight and the initial punch of apricot fruit one looks for, before a spine-tingling thread of lime and chalky freshness kicks in on the finish. Delicious. Drink 2023-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In January 2002 Maison Camille Giroud was bought by an American consortium led by banker Joe Wender and winery-owner Ann Colgin, and a new chapter began. David Croix was installed as the winemaker/ technical director and tasked with a major revamping of the winemaking facilities and especially replacement and renewal of the old barrels to make wines in a much purer, more modern style. The company also owns 1.2 hectares of vineyards in and around Beaune. The 2016 vintage was a collaborative effort between the outgoing David Croix and his replacement, Carel Voorhuis, formerly of Domaine d’Ardhuy. The transition is a smooth one, with Carel’s gentle touch following on seamlessly from David’s elegant style. Carel described the 2016 vintage as lighter than 2015, with more elegance and better balance. It is clear he has a preference for 2016, highlighting the expressive, aromatic characteristics of the wines and calling them “ethereal”. He explained that it was important to avoid over-ripeness by picking in good time, and emphasised the value of gentle extraction to prevent obtaining hard tannins.

The grapes for this are purchased, from parcels facing Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix and Pernand-Vergelesses, which gives a complete reading of the terroir of the vineyard. The nose has notes of stone fruit, a little pineapple and just a whiff of bacon fat. The palate is rich and dense with a warming ripeness, but all the while underpinned by a citrus core of acidity. An excellent Corton-Charlemagne. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long-aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. Winemaker Franck Grux is very pleased with the quality of the 2016 vintage, although he explained that the frost damage caused grapes to ripen at different times, which required a great deal of patience and necessitated extending the harvest to three weeks, as opposed to the normal two. The Puligny vineyards were relatively lucky in terms of frost damage, giving good yields. Franck explained that he carried out more lees stirring in 2016 than in 2015 to give the wines more weight, feeling that 2016 is a vintage with comparatively modest body and ripeness. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

This is from the Pougets portion of the Grand Cru, more south-facing on marl, which is capable of lush and exotic wines. No new oak was used this year. This has an impressive level of ripeness, with sweet grapefruit and citronella; it’s lovely, long, ripe and sweet, with no Charlemagne austerity. Intense and lush on the finish. Drink 2020-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The Javilliers have been involved in the wine business for generations as courtiers. When Patrick started out in 1974 this was the main source of his income, alongside which he worked three hectares of vineyards. His courtier days are now long behind him, and his domaine covers nine hectares. Recently, Patrick has been joined by his daughter Marion and her brother-in-law Pierre- Emmanuel Lamy. Patrick is not far away from 50 vintages; Marion is now making the estate’s red wines, and Pierre-Emmanuel largely does the whites – not that Patrick is taking a back seat. As always, conversation with him is peppered with observations; indeed he has been closely involved in the discussions to create a new generic Côte d’Or appellation, a move that would appear to now just need a rubber stamp. There wasn’t too much frost damage here and harvesting began on 20th September; Patrick observes that the character of the vintage is one that can take a bit more bâtonnage than usual.

When purchased in 2004, the vineyard was planted with Pinot Noir but, being southeast facing and with a light and slightly gravelly soil, it was felt it would be a better suited to Chardonnay. Nevertheless, a vineyard capable of ripening red grapes will endow a white wine with a certain opulence and, against the stricter style from Corton-Charlemagne round the hill towards Pernand, this is veritably exotic. The vineyard wasn’t frosted and the wine is positive and direct. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Just two barrels were made this year, instead of six. It has a very attractive bouquet with some fresh pineapple notes and an impressive density, with ripe apples and a generous middle, leading to a fine-boned finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.

Slightly the palest colour of the three whites Immediate floral and mineral nose. Subtle and precise with some richer elements fleshed onto a fine-boned structure. Lovely elements suffuse the finish, fragrant lemon blossom. Long and fine and very persistent.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

Grown on the Pernand side of the appellation, this is a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne. It has an exceptional density of flavour, a bit like licking lemon infused stones, and is really vibrant and stylish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director