Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
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Valentini, Abruzzo,
Ready, but will keep,
Making its debut is Francesco Valentini’s staggeringly good Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, from the stunning 2010 vintage. What pace, precision, and complexity: the nose thrills with lime fruit, herbal artemisia, saline salmastro and citrus zest, all tightly and exquisitely packed. It’s so racy, the product of old pergola vines from the white, fine tilth soils of the Colline Teramane zone, prized for Trebbiano (or Bombino Bianco if you’re Puglian), that spent a week macerating on its skin before nine months’ ageing in 40 hecarlitre old chestnut and oak barrels, plus two years in bottle. It’s so composed, so alive, with sapid citronelle notes, perfect pitch, Riesling-esque energy and crunch. Pulsating. The vinous equivalent of the Caol’Ila single Islay malt whisky?
David Berry Green
David Berry Green
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Trebbiano is a high yielding white wine grape variety, originated in the South-Eastern Mediterranean. Italy still has extensive plantings of the grape (it accounts for over half of the white wines in the country, with diminishing importance in the recent years).
It is also found in France, where it is known by the name of Ugni Blanc as a major component in Armagnac and Cognac that benefit from its high acidity and subtle flavours.
Trebbiano’s received some poor press over the years being responsible perhaps for too many anodyne Italian whites (and red blends!). However, a new broom across the country has been sweeping away the poorer clones and practices in favour of something far more respectable, such as the examples produced by Monte del Frà