2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Giuseppe Tassi, Tassi, Tuscany, Italy
Eric Guido, vinous.com (December 2021)
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (November 2021)
Michaela Morris, Decanter (November 2021)
About this WINE
The Tassi family have deep roots in Montalcino. They have a legacy of working the vineyards of Biondi Santi and then as beekeepers, before turning their attention back to wine. Owner Fabio Tassi is a restaurateur, running the town’s flagship Drogheria Franci restaurant, and he owns its most prolific wine shop. His exposure to, and understanding of, Brunello’s wines, vintages and vineyards are greater than most – as are his relationships with many of the great winemaking families of Italy.
A black grape widely grown in Central Italy and the main component of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano as well as being the sole permitted grape for the famed Brunello di Montalcino.
It is a high yielding, late ripening grape that performs best on well-drained calcareous soils on south-facing hillsides. For years it was blighted by poor clonal selection and massive overcropping - however since the 1980s the quality of Sangiovese-based wines has rocketed upwards and they are now some of the most sought after in the world.
It produces wines with pronounced tannins and acidity, though not always with great depth of colour, and its character can vary from farmyard/leather nuances through to essence of red cherries and plums. In the 1960s the advent of Super Tuscans saw bottlings of 100% Sangiovese wines, as well as the introduction of Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blends, the most famous being Tignanello.
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The vintage’s heat gave intensity to the grapes, but the vines’ proximity to the river and cold mountain winds retained freshness and phenolic maturity. Wild fermentation in concrete, 10% whole-bunch and 25 months in botti grande make for a stylish Brunello. Dense, dark fruit, earthy detail and floral highlights melt into a firm frame with juicy velvet tannins.
Drink 2024 - 2032
Davy Żyw, Senior Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Feb 2022)
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