2021 Bolgheri, Vermentino, Grattamacco, Tuscany, Italy
Critics reviews
A sleek white, with elements of ripe peach and melon blending with Mediterranean scrub, bitter citrus and crushed stone. Vibrant and also leaves a chalky feel on the extended finish.
Drink now through 2027
Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator (August 2023)
About this WINE
Grattamacco
Grattamacco Estate is perched atop a hill facing the Tyrrhenian Sea between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri along the Maremma coast in Tuscany. Founded in 1977, Grattamacco was one of the first along with Sassicaia, to start producing wines in this region. Of the 80ha estate, 29ha are dedicated to vines. The 10ha of vineyards dedicated to making Grattamacco are located on steep slopes 100 metres above sea level.
The vineyards are protected from the strong winds by a natural valley and organic farming techniques are practiced. The vines have an average age of 20 years and only the best grapes from each vineyard are used to make this wine. 2017 Grattamacco is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese.
The harvest is done by hand, vinification of the Sangiovese grapes take place in open wooden vats and stainless steel for the other two varieties. Manual punch downs are carried out to facilitate a gentle extraction of the tannins. The wine is then aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and a further 12 months in bottle.
Bolgheri
Bolgheri is a new DOC in the coastal Maremma region which first rose to prominence during the 1970s with the emergence of the so-called Super Tuscan wines like Ornellaia and Sassicaia. These new ventures had rocked the DOC establishment by using high proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, opting out of the DOC system and relabeling their wines as simply Vino da Tavola (table wine).
Having won universal acclaim and exchanging hands for unprecedented prices (higher even than Tuscany's finest examples), the authorities relented and awarded Bolgheri its own DOC. The actions of the Super Tuscans inspired a generation in Italy, even if some of the wines here have lost a little of their lustre since.
Vermentino/Pigato
Vermentino is a white wine grape, also known as Rolle (in Rousillion and Provence) & Malvoisie in Corsica . It migrated from the Iberian Peninsula in the late 1300s (Madeira?) into Corsica, Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany during the 15th century.
Traditionally believed to be related to Malvasia, recent DNA studies have instead revealed traits in common with the Hungarian Furmint.
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is one of the most famous incarnation - The grape has recently become fashionable in parts of central Italy. Often blended for its structure, on its own the grape displays aromatic ripe peach and honeyed notes and a full body.
Tenuta di Valgiano incorporate a significant slug of this grape into their 'Giallo dei Muri' Tuscan wine
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Description
Brimming with energy, this Vermentino from Bolgheri is utterly delightful. A beguiling meadow flower aroma with honeysuckle and verbena, it has personality from the offset. Exotic fruits blossom on the palate with melon and lime and an ever so slight saline finish. I should also mention this wine has fantastic acidity, leaving you wanting for more.
Tasted with other colleagues, you know it’s a great wine when all around you (including yourself) are thinking about buying a case. It has so much going on underneath and personally I would keep this for 4-5 years, however its current charms are also not to be ignored.
Drink now to 2033
Matthew Cobb, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (October 2023)
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