2009 Southern France

2009 was hot in the middle of summer, but the Gassac water-table had been well nourished in the Spring and the vines did not have to struggle too much. The Guiberts, pre et fils, have no hesitation in lauding the wine as a worthy companion, when mature, to the 2000, the 1988 and the legendary 1978. Why? Because the conditions allowed ripe fruit and soft tannins whilst not for a moment forsaking the virtues of balance, structure and length. Small grapes with thick skins are reliable qualitative precursors, it seems.

The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. The undulating vineyard is protected by scrub and garrigue, both informing the distinctive taste and adding a real sense of place. The Cabernet is quite reticent at the moment, its tannins primes inter pares.. the latent fruit character will emerge triumphantly after bottling and slowly but surely come into its own. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wine has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

2009 in the South of France was almost perfect for the vines; the early rain providing energy and fuel, the mid-summer temperatures engendering complexity through their diversity and the late season warmth ensuring a happy coincidence of phenolic and fruit ripeness. Trevallon provides a magnificent illustration of this benevolence, all the more so because the marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah requires very specific conditions, with sufficient warmth to ripen the Cabernet skins but diurnal patterns through the season to allow the Syrah to shine through with pellucid purity. The wine succeeds admirably, with the roundhead Cabernet providing a sober framework and the more cavalier Syrah broadening the mouth-feel, harnessing the sweetness and lifting the mood.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

The charismatic Jean-Michel Alquier represents the fifth generation of this, the top property in Faugères. Faugères was lucky enough to break away from the heterogeneous Coteaux du Languedoc umbrella appellation as far back as 1982, although some may say that it has yet to perform strongly on the export market. Given the forceful personality of M Alquier, allied to the eloquence of his wines, one would be unwise to nominate anyone else to be an ambassador for the region.

The Faugères soil is dominated by grey schist, friable schist apparently, if that is not oxymoronic. The resulting wines, where vines are old and yields are low, as here, can be rich, savoury and take on complex gamey notes with maturity. Located just to the north-east of Beziers, Faugères deserves more attention.

The significance of the eponymous yellow house is not entirely clear. What is clear is that this is a prestige cuvée, made up of 80% old vine Grenache and aged for 14 months in barriqus, 10% of which are new.  The wine has an attractive nose of cherry, praline and woodsmoke; the palate is creamy and dense, with balancing acidity, hints of garrigue and a rounded finish, full of Mediterranean warmth. 
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The senior wine for the Pèira Domaine has been picked at extraordinarily low yields of 7.5 hl/ha  and is, unsurprisingly extremely concentrated. Cassis, black cherry even macerated prune, then undergrowth, spice and black pepper; the wine is young of course yet already boasts an ethereal elegance that seems to be the Domaine’s Calling Card, this in spite of the richness of the wine. To achieve such a thing is an achievement indeed, and puts this wine at or near to the top of the great wines of the Languedoc.
(Simon Field MW - BBR Buyer)