2009 Southern France

The white from Daumas Gassac has long been a favourite of mine, in its own way just as influential as the red; indeed in the selection of grape varieties, namely equal shares of Viognier, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, it has probably been more influential. It is great to see white wines of this stature,and those from near-by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now being assessed in the same way as the top Chardonnays from Burgundy. Complexity is most impressive here, with ripeness, effortlessly achieved in this, near-perfect summer, manifested by notes of acacia, white peach and guava, and freshness evidenced by the stony minerality and crisp acidity which subtly underwrite the whole structure. A twist of nutty Mediterranean indulgence completes the picture, which is eminently food-friendly, but certainly worthy of trying on its own such is its fundamental quality.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)