2009 Southern France

2009 was hot in the middle of summer, but the Gassac water-table had been well nourished in the Spring and the vines did not have to struggle too much. The Guiberts, pre et fils, have no hesitation in lauding the wine as a worthy companion, when mature, to the 2000, the 1988 and the legendary 1978. Why? Because the conditions allowed ripe fruit and soft tannins whilst not for a moment forsaking the virtues of balance, structure and length. Small grapes with thick skins are reliable qualitative precursors, it seems.

The Cabernet dominates, as always, with the supporting cast made up of Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Tempranillo to name but a few. The undulating vineyard is protected by scrub and garrigue, both informing the distinctive taste and adding a real sense of place. The Cabernet is quite reticent at the moment, its tannins primes inter pares.. the latent fruit character will emerge triumphantly after bottling and slowly but surely come into its own. Peonies, wild berries, sousbois and spice (the wine has seen 16 months of new barrique) are the dominant notes at present; but the precise descriptors will evolve as much as the wine over time, taking on even greater complexity and harmony.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

Domaine Gros’Noré is close to the sea, its clay-limestone soils etched into a natural amphitheatre, providing a unique microclimate with the most pleasing maritime conditions. Owner and winemaker Alain Pascal has rebuilt his father’s old winery by hand. His father was, how shall we put this, of a not-modest stature and the name of the property is a specific, affectionate reference to his girth. The winemaking is natural, taking advantage of “marine humidity” and plenty of sunshine.

This is a blend of 90 percent Mourvèdre, the balance shared between Cinsault and Carignan. The 2009 is richer and fuller than its immediate forebear; black cherry and pot pourri aromas lead to a profound and powerful mid-palate, quite challenging in the intensity of its youth, but with no lack of food-friendly potential.

2009 in the South of France was almost perfect for the vines; the early rain providing energy and fuel, the mid-summer temperatures engendering complexity through their diversity and the late season warmth ensuring a happy coincidence of phenolic and fruit ripeness. Trevallon provides a magnificent illustration of this benevolence, all the more so because the marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah requires very specific conditions, with sufficient warmth to ripen the Cabernet skins but diurnal patterns through the season to allow the Syrah to shine through with pellucid purity. The wine succeeds admirably, with the roundhead Cabernet providing a sober framework and the more cavalier Syrah broadening the mouth-feel, harnessing the sweetness and lifting the mood.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

The white from Daumas Gassac has long been a favourite of mine, in its own way just as influential as the red; indeed in the selection of grape varieties, namely equal shares of Viognier, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, it has probably been more influential. It is great to see white wines of this stature,and those from near-by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now being assessed in the same way as the top Chardonnays from Burgundy. Complexity is most impressive here, with ripeness, effortlessly achieved in this, near-perfect summer, manifested by notes of acacia, white peach and guava, and freshness evidenced by the stony minerality and crisp acidity which subtly underwrite the whole structure. A twist of nutty Mediterranean indulgence completes the picture, which is eminently food-friendly, but certainly worthy of trying on its own such is its fundamental quality.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)

The senior wine for the Pèira Domaine has been picked at extraordinarily low yields of 7.5 hl/ha  and is, unsurprisingly extremely concentrated. Cassis, black cherry even macerated prune, then undergrowth, spice and black pepper; the wine is young of course yet already boasts an ethereal elegance that seems to be the Domaine’s Calling Card, this in spite of the richness of the wine. To achieve such a thing is an achievement indeed, and puts this wine at or near to the top of the great wines of the Languedoc.
(Simon Field MW - BBR Buyer)