2021 Mullineux, Granite Syrah, Swartland, South Africa
Critics reviews
The 2021 Syrah Granite comes from Jakkalsfontein, planted around 1996. The lovely bouquet offers white pepper and clove, opening nicely in the glass but retaining subtlety and elegance. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannins, dark berry fruit laced with graphite and cracked black pepper. It’s quite structured toward the finish, with an exceedingly long aftertaste. Impressive.
Drink 2024 - 2038
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (November 2023)
Made from 100% whole-cluster grapes, the 2021 Granite Syrah is dense with a firm, rocky core and fresh layers of spicy red and black fruit tones that erupt from the glass. With immense mineral tension and fine-grained tannins, this will need some time to come around but will indeed finish strong. Your patience will be rewarded; give the wine time.
Drink 2025 - 2041
Anthony Mueller, Wine Advocate (December 2023)
Tobacco and blackberry fruit on the nose with some violets, olives and cracked pepper. Medium- to full-bodied with firm and very precise tannins. Mineral and focused, almost brooding.
Try from 2024
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (December 2023)
About this WINE
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines is one of the stand-out producers in South Africa's budding Swartland region. Winemakers Chris and Andrea Mullineux’s ambition is to bottle wines that are a true expression of the Swartland, and all steps of their winemaking process are taken with this in mind. They work closely with a select group of growers who follow sustainable, reasoned farming practices, as well as owning vineyards at their Roundstone Farm in Riebeeksrivier.
In the cellar, apart from minimal amounts of sulphur, nothing is added to or removed from the wine. They do not make use of any yeasts, acids, tannins, enzymes, or fining and filtering agents. “Leeu” (Afrikaans for “lion”) was added to the name recently to recognise the contribution of a new investor to the project.
Apart from their wonderful Syrah, Chenin Blanc-based white blend and a super-rich Straw Wine made from air-dried Chenin Blanc, fermented and matured in old barriques, Mullineux now has a range of spectacular single-terroir Syrah and Chenin Blanc wines, each of which illustrates the amazing potential of the differing Swartland soils. Volumes of the single-vineyard wines are tiny, so availability is extremely limited.
Swartland
After Stellenbosch, the west coast district of Swartland (25 miles due north of Cape Town, between the towns of Malmesbury and Piketberg) now ranks as the Cape's most exciting wine-producing district.
Settled initially by nomadic Khoikhoi from Namibia, the Dutch brought trade and vines to the region in the 17th century. Viticulture was developed only more recently.This contrasts with an ancient geology which has brought a mix of shale, arenite sandstone and granite soils air-conditioned by the Atlantic Ocean nearby.
Chenin Blanc and Shiraz seem to do best, as exemplified by the wines of Eben Sadie and Mullineux.
Syrah/Shiraz
A noble black grape variety grown particularly in the Northern Rhône where it produces the great red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rôtie and Cornas, and in Australia where it produces wines of startling depth and intensity. Reasonably low yields are a crucial factor for quality as is picking at optimum ripeness. Its heartland, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, consists of 270 hectares of steeply terraced vineyards producing wines that brim with pepper, spices, tar and black treacle when young. After 5-10 years they become smooth and velvety with pronounced fruit characteristics of damsons, raspberries, blackcurrants and loganberries.
It is now grown extensively in the Southern Rhône where it is blended with Grenache and Mourvèdre to produce the great red wines of Châteauneuf du Pape and Gigondas amongst others. Its spiritual home in Australia is the Barossa Valley, where there are plantings dating as far back as 1860. Australian Shiraz tends to be sweeter than its Northern Rhône counterpart and the best examples are redolent of new leather, dark chocolate, liquorice, and prunes and display a blackcurrant lusciousness.
South African producers such as Eben Sadie are now producing world- class Shiraz wines that represent astonishing value for money.
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Description
The 2021 Syrah Granite comes from Jakkalsfontein, planted around 1996. The lovely bouquet offers white pepper and clove, opening nicely in the glass but retaining subtlety and elegance. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannins, dark berry fruit laced with graphite and cracked black pepper. It’s quite structured toward the finish, with an exceedingly long aftertaste. Impressive.
Drink 2024 - 2038
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (November 2023)
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