2016 Pouilly-Vinzelles, Climat Les Quarts, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers, Burgundy
Critics reviews
William Kelley - 31/08/2018
About this WINE
Bret Bros.
Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established their Domaine de la Soufrandière (see here for the wine selection from la Soufrandière) with 4 hectares of vines entirely in the appellation of Pouilly Vinzelles. They have also developed a negociant activity using the name Bret Brothers.
Previous experience between them includes stages at Ridge and Newton in California and Comte Lafon in Burgundy. Most of their vines are in a perfectly situated east facing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content.
The vineyards have been farmed organically since 2000, with biodynamic principles being progressively introduced. The grapes, both their own and those purchased, are picked in small containers, then whole bunch pressed in the tinailler (local Maconnais and Beaujolais word for cuverie) before descending by gravity to the barrel cellar. They are currently all taken out of barrel for bottling after 11 months.
Pouilly-Vinzelles
Pouilly-Vinzelles is a small wine-producing appellation located in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy. It lies just south of the famous Côte d'Or region, and is characterised by limestone-rich soils, which contribute to the minerality and complexity of the wines. The region also benefits from a continental climate, with warm summers and cool autumns, ideal for ripening Chardonnay grapes.
Chardonnay is the dominant grape variety in Pouilly-Vinzelles, accounting for all of the wines produced in the appellation. The wines are typically dry, full-bodied, and elegant, with notes of citrus, stone fruits, and sometimes a hint of hazelnut. They are known for their freshness and balance, with good acidity and a lingering finish.
Like other appellations in Burgundy, Pouilly-Vinzelles has strict regulations governing grape growing and winemaking. These regulations dictate factors such as grape varieties allowed, vineyard practices, and ageing requirements, all aimed at ensuring the quality and authenticity of the wines.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
From vines aged over 80 years in the mid-slope sweet spot, the grapes were harvested at a concentrated 35hl/ha. Sparkling pale lemon in colour, this is very energetic with wonderful layered complexity and a lingering, mineral finish. Drink 2020-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer
Grandfather Bret bought this property in Vinzelles in 1947. In 2000 Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret took their vineyards out of the local co-operative and established Domaine de la Soufrandière with four hectares of vines in Pouilly-Vinzelles. They also have a négociant business, Bret Brothers. Their vines are, mostly, on a perfectly situated eastfacing slope of Vinzelles called Les Quarts, on Bajocian limestone with a high silica/quartz content. They are organic and biodynamic. The Bret brothers dub 2016 a ”vigneron's vintage”, which is to say that the key was to be in the vines. The hail on 13th April did significant damage but hard work in the vineyards (spraying biodynamic treatments from a backpack) paid off and ensured quality fruit. The Brets have added new vineyards in St Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé to the Soufrandière domaine, thus the whole range we buy is now from estate-grown fruit.
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