Glenmorangie, A Tale of Winter, Marsala Wine Cask, Highland, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (46%)
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Glenmorangie Distillery, Highlands
Glenmorangie is the best-selling malt whisky in Scotland and the distillery sits at the banks of the Dornoch Firth, near the village of Tain, Ross-shire. The setting is very much a little ‘glen of tranquillity’, as the translation from the Gaelic describes it. The staff comprises the ‘Sixteen Men of Tain’ who make the whisky and they are featured in the company’s advertising; all are local celebrities. Licensed activity began in 1843 with the conversion of a brewery by William Mathieson.
When the distillery was first set up, rather than go to the expense of buying new stills, the distillery manager purchased second-hand swan necked stills that had been used in a gin distillery. These stills are particularly high at 5.14 metres tall, the tallest in Scotland. The ‘boil pot’ each of them has – a bulge below the neck of the still which ensures that only the lightest, finest alcohols pass over in distillation. These unusual stills along with water from the Tarlogie Spring help to give Glenmorangie its unique flavour.
In the 1990s Glenmorangie started experimenting with different wood finishes for their whiskies. As well as the traditional use of casks that had been previously filled with Sherry, they also experimentd with casks from Port, Madeira and even one that had been previously used for Hermitage in the French town of the same name, Tain!
Maybe because it is the largest geographical area, the Highlands is also the hardest Whisky region to pin down stylistically. For this reason it is easiest not to consider the Highlands as one large are, but as 4 smaller and much more distinct ones.
North-Highland malts tend to be light bodied, delicate whiskies with complex aromas and a dryish finish sometimes spicy, sometimes with a trace of salt. Northern Highland distilleries are almost all coastal. The most northerly is Old Pulteney, situated about as far north as you can go in Wick, which produces a delicious, fragrant, dry whisky.
Working south along the route of the A9, next comes Clynelish at Brora (built in 1969, beside an earlier distillery who’s whiskies are known as Brora) - a sophisticated and complex whisky older expressions are very highly regarded and the malt deserves to be better known. Perhaps the reason that it is rarely seen as a distillery bottling is that it’s malt is a key component of Johnnie Walker.
The best known of all the Northern Highland malts is Glenmorangie. Glenmorangie, is made at Tain on the Cromarty Firth, and is the most popular malt in Scotland. Over the last decade Glenmorangie pioneered the now often copied process of wood finishing. Althoght this process is not universally popular; it transformed the company’s commercial success.
The Eastern Highlands produce a number of whiskies that can be confused with those of Speyside. In the north of the region close to the southern border of Speyside, whiskies which are smooth, sometimes with a little smoke, malty-sweet, such as Macduff, Ardmore, Glen Garioch and Knockdhu are made.
Further south is Fettercairn, and Glencadam, at Brechin, which produces an unusual creamy, fruity malt. The area between the Moray and the Tay has two distilleries of note; Royal Lochnagar and Glendronach. The first is a wonderfully smooth, rich whisky made in the shadow of the mountain of the same name in a distillery established in 1825 The second is also luscious and often sherried.
In the Western Highlands there only two distilleries on the mainland those of Oban and Ben Nevis. Oban is a perfect, sheltered harbour makes it the principal seaport for the Isles and the capital of the West Highlands. Its whisky has a misty, briny character, with a background of heather and peat.
The Oban whisky stills used are among the smallest in Scotland; the cramped nature of the site is attested to by the odd position of the worm tubs, fed by unusually short lyne arms, and nestled in the ‘vee’ between the roofs of the still house and an adjoining building.
The whiskies of the Central Highlands are a mixed bag. Generally they are lighter-bodied and sweeter that their cousins to the east, but not as sweet as Speysides.
The Central Highland single malts used to be known as 'Perthshire Whiskies'. Most are found along the valleys of the Tay and its tributaries. The furthest north is Dalwhinnie, which is almost in Speyside indeed; it is at the very head of the river, over sixty miles from Grantown-on-Spey.
Blair Athol and Edradour whisky distilleries are both near Pitlochrie. The former was founded in the 1790s and was substantially rebuilt in 1949 Edradour is the smallest distillery in Scotland - a happy survivor of the days of 'farm distilleries' - yet produces a clean, fresh, attractive and justly popular whisky.
South again is Aberfeldy distillery, on the edge of the pretty town of the same name. Glenturret, at Crieff is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed.
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A really enticing rose gold colour first greets the drinker with copper flashes indicating the age and cask finish. A great explosion of aromas on the nose with red toffee apple, stewed forest berries and clementine peel leading the festive fare before a roll call of spices inexorably associated with short days and wintery nights – mixed spice, white chocolate buttons and cookie dough. It really is sugar, spice and all things nice. This is perfect for filling a hipflask, or would make a terrific highball garnished with a slice of fresh ginger before dinner.
Jared Ehret, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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