2000 Malvazia, Madeira, Pereira d'Oliveira,Portugal
Critics reviews
Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com (September 2020)
About this WINE
Pereira D'Oliveira
Established in 1820, Pereira D’Oliveira today is run by Anibal, Luis and Filipe D’Oliveira, the fifth generation of the family and the direct descendants of Joao Pereira d’Oliveira who founded the company.
Their philosophy is to produce wines of the highest possible quality with experience acquired over two centuries of wine making. Above all their aim is to produce wines of exceptional balance – powerful and textured with wonderful aromatic complexity, yet balanced by freshness.
They are also in a unique position in Madeira to hold stocks of old and extremely rare wines dating as far back as 1850. Maturing in pipes, these develop slowly and are only bottled to order.
We have selected a range of their wines that spans the classic, noble Madeira grape varieties and the rare, and which draws on the great vintages from the extraordinary and unique collection of wines held in their cellars.
Malvasia (Malmsey)
Malvasia is a catch-all for a family of ancient Mediterranean grapes known as Malvasia, Malvoisie or Malmsey; their origins lie in Asia Minor and their relevance in decline.
Malvasia is responsible for producing a range of wines styles and colours; red and white, dry, sweet and sparkling. Perhaps better known for its ameliorative effect on Tuscan Vin Santo, providing honeyed smoky fruit intensity, while in Portugal& Madeira it reveals itself as Boal (Malvasia Fina) & Malmsey (Malvasia Candida) in the production of fortified wines.
Massimo Romeo is a source of top-class Vin Santo di Montepulciano, while Barbeito is famed for its Malmsey Madeira.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
There is no need for nosing here, such is the concentration of amalgamated richness: oodles of dried figs and prunes mingle with chocolate-orange aromas. Diving into the palate, you are met with an unctuous medley of caramelised walnuts and toffee apple. All this wonderful sweetness is met with vigour and precision, amazing balance and persistence, courtesy of a finely honed acidity. This is cracking value for the complexity on offer – another reason to love Madeira. This is as delicious on its own as it would be with chocolate pudding. Drink now for as long as you wish – it will be superb.
Chris Lamb, Private Account Manager (Feb 2018)
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