2009 Kurni, Oasi Degli Angeli, Marche, Italy
Critics reviews
The flagship 2009 Marche Rosso Kurni is another in a series of wines that pushes the boundaries of what is possible with Montepulciano. Plums, black cherries, mocha, espresso, blackberry jam and menthol are woven together in a seamless fabric that covers every inch of the palate. A cross between Montepulciano and Amarone, the Kurni impresses for its voluptuous, silky personality that is the result of low yields and an approach that calls for partially drying the fruit.
With time in the glass, the new French oak becomes increasingly apparent. Today, the 2009 is a bit bombastic. It will be interesting to see if it settles down over time. Kurni remains one of the most interesting and distinctive wines in Italy, although I have to be honest, the last two vintages have been less exciting than some of the great wines of the past.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (February 2013)
About this WINE
Azienda Agricola Oasi degli Angeli
The Marche region in central Italy stretches all the way from the Apennines to the fashionable coastal resorts of the Adriatic. High up in Cupra Marittima lies this tiny estate which is owned and run by Marco Casolanetti and Eleonora Rossi, assisted by consultant oenologist Giovanni Basso. They cultivate a south-facing 1.4-hectare vineyard - the soil is predominately calcareous.
Kurni was first released from the 1997 vintage - it caused a sensation in Italian wine circles and the consequent vintage showed that this was no fluke. It is produced from 100% Montepulciano grapes, which have a high average vine age of 35 years. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats and the wine is then aged in French oak barriques for 18 months.
Marches
Marches is located across the Apennines from Tuscany. This central-eastern province is responsible for around 3.5% of Italian production (2006). It produces mainly white wines of which only about 15% are classified as DOC.
The whites are dominated by the Verdicchio grape grown abundantly on the coastal flats of the Castelli di Jesi DOC and further inland at altitude among the more demanding Apennine foothills. Here the Verdicchio di Matelica DOC produces very good wines revered for their longevity.
The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Sangiovese grapes lie behind the two key red wine styles: Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno. Meanwhile, the red indigenous grape Lacrima di Morro d’Alba can be refreshingly interesting.
Recommended producers: La Monacesca, Le Terrazze, Saladini Palastri
Montepulciano
The Montepulciano grape stands as a cornerstone of Italian viticulture, flourishing in Central and Eastern Italy. Despite its name, it maintains no genetic ties to the renowned Tuscan town of Montepulciano nor its celebrated Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which predominantly features Sangiovese. Renowned for its adaptability, Montepulciano thrives in a spectrum of soil types and climates. Exhibiting robust growth characteristics, it yields generously and matures late in the season, offering winemakers flexibility in cultivation and harvest.
The heartland of Montepulciano lies in the Abruzzo district, where its flagship incarnation, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, reigns supreme. Here, it delivers wines of remarkable character and distinction. In the Marche region, it harmonises with Sangiovese to craft illustrious blends such as Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno, showcasing its versatility and capacity for nuanced expression.
Montepulciano wines typically embody a light to medium-bodied profile, brimming with fruit-forward flavours. Often characterised by gentle tannins and moderate acidity, they offer immediate pleasure and accessibility, best enjoyed in their youth. Yet, a select cadre of visionary producers employs low-yielding old vines, crafting 100% Montepulciano wines that undergo meticulous oak ageing. These esteemed bottlings defy convention, evolving gracefully in the bottle over a decade or more, unfurling layers of complexity and refinement.
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Description
The flagship 2009 Marche Rosso Kurni is another in a series of wines that pushes the boundaries of what is possible with Montepulciano. Plums, black cherries, mocha, espresso, blackberry jam and menthol are woven together in a seamless fabric that covers every inch of the palate. A cross between Montepulciano and Amarone, the Kurni impresses for its voluptuous, silky personality that is the result of low yields and an approach that calls for partially drying the fruit.
With time in the glass, the new French oak becomes increasingly apparent. Today, the 2009 is a bit bombastic. It will be interesting to see if it settles down over time. Kurni remains one of the most interesting and distinctive wines in Italy, although I have to be honest, the last two vintages have been less exciting than some of the great wines of the past.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (February 2013)
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