2015 Lalama, Dominio do Bibei, Ribeira Sacra, Spain

Dominio do Bibei

Ribeira Sacra is one of the most exciting regions to emerge from Spain in recent years. Situated in the North-Eastern corner in Galicia, the area is remote, the landscape arid and mountainous. Domino do Bibei's winemaker, Javier Domínguez, is producing modern wines with beautiful definition and verve, using traditional grape varieties such as Mencia, Garnacha and Muraton for the reds and Godello, Albariño and Dona Blanca in his whites.

The vineyards are steeply terraced at high altitude, up to 670 metres. There is little top soil with the old vines working hard to survive amongst the rocky terrain of slate/schist. These are thoughtful wines which not only please but also challenge the senses through their extraordinary purity and detail. No stainless steel is used, fermentation and storage is in wood and cement. Grapes are hand harvested and are fed via a gravity system.

Ribeira Sacra

Ribeira Sacra is a stunning wine region located in the northwest of Spain, in the province of Galicia. “Ribeira Sacra” translates to “Sacred Riverbank” in Galician, referencing the region’s breathtaking landscape sculpted by the Sil and Miño rivers.

The region benefits from a unique microclimate influenced by the nearby Atlantic Ocean. The combination of Atlantic and continental influences creates cool, humid conditions with ample rainfall, making it an ideal environment for wine cultivation. The vineyards are primarily planted on granite and slate soils, adding distinct mineral elements to the wines.

The wines are typically produced from indigenous grape varieties. Among the prominent red are Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera, which exhibit bright fruit flavours, elegant acidity, and subtle earthy undertones. On the other hand, the whites are often Godello, Albariño, and Treixadura, which are notable for their refreshing acidity, citrus notes, and distinct minerality. These grapes thrive in the region’s diverse terroirs, producing wines with character and depth.

One of the most distinguishing features of Ribeira Sacra is its terraced vineyards. Due to the challenging terrain, many vineyards are planted on steep slopes, requiring labour-intensive work for cultivation and harvesting. The terraces, built centuries ago by local farmers, create a mesmerising landscape and showcase the region’s rich winemaking heritage.

Ribeira Sacra maintains a solid commitment to traditional winemaking methods. Many wineries adhere to organic and sustainable practices, emphasising manual labour in the vineyards and minimal intervention in the cellar. This approach allows the wines to express the authenticity of their origin and terroir.

Mencía

Mencía is the primary grape of the Bierzo region and its undisputed star, covering nearly two-thirds of the vineyards. This red grape variety is grown almost exclusively in north-western part of Spain (especially in the DOs of Galicia, Valdeorras, Monterrei, and Ribeira Sacra). Mencía ripens early, by mid-September, and is well suited to the maritime climate of Bierzo where autumn rains are quite common.

Mencía has only recently come into spotlight as a quality, potential-laden grape variety. When properly made, it offers fascinating wines across a contrasting spectrum of styles; on the one end are fruity and forward wines with supple tannins and succulent fruit. On the other end are more concentrated, powerful styles with an exotic earthiness, smooth tannins and an enviable reflection of the minerally-rich Bierzo terroir.

Mencía is capable of making excellent wine on its own, with no need to sacrifice its unique character in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot that are commonplace elsewhere in Spain.