2016 Birichino, Bechthold Vineyard Cinsault, Old Vines, Mokelumne River, California, USA
About this WINE
Birichino
Birichino, pronounced biri-kino, is a very interesting project. Founded in Santa Cruz in 2008, and drawing on a combined 35 years making and selling wine in California, France, and Italy, owners and winemakers Alex Krause and John Locke are focused on attaining the perfect balance of perfume, poise, and puckishness with a particular fondness for varieties that provide enormous pleasure and re-ëstablish a direct connection to the sensual world (at least, that’s what they say).
John worked from 1990 to 2007 with the legendary Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard, with (the equally legendary) André Ostertag of Domaine Ostertag in Alsace in 1993, and with a host of small producers across Italy and south-western France. Alex started in 1992 with Randall, worked with John in the cellar, and then escaped to the sales side in the later 90's to eventually serve today as Director of Export Sales for Bonny Doon Vineyard.
Their Grenache is from a vineyard planted in 1910, with vines on their own roots. Made with natural yeast fermentation, a bit of whole cluster, and no fining or filtration, from 100 year old vines.
Cinsault
Cinsault (pronounced "sin-so") is a red grape variety known for its versatility and contributions to various wine regions worldwide. It has a rich history, primarily in the Languedoc region of southern France, but it has spread to many other wine-producing areas due to its adaptability to different climates.
Cinsault grapes are medium-sized with thin skins, typically dark blue to black in colour. The vines are hardy and drought-resistant grapevine, making them suitable for warm and arid climates. They are particularly well-suited to Mediterranean regions and thrive in areas with hot summers.
While Cinsault is mainly used in red wine production, it is also sometimes used in rosé wines, adding light and fruity character. It is often blended with other grape varieties to enhance the wine profile.
The variety tends to exhibit a range of flavours, including red berries, cherries, and sometimes a hint of spices. When used in rosé wines, it can bring out more floral and watermelon notes.
Tannins are typically on the lower side, which can make them more approachable and enjoyable in their youth. The variety is often used in blends to soften and round out more tannic grape varieties.
Cinsault has been a key component in traditional blends in southern France, such as in Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Over time, it has gained popularity in other wine regions as winemakers recognize its potential for producing high-quality wines.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
These “centenarian” vines were planted in 1886 – and while they use most of the fruit to make their delicious Vin Gris Rosé, since 2012 they’ve also been making a red. At 12.5 percent alcohol, this wine has incredible restraint but with an intensity that holds its own. There are notes of violet, pomegranate, wild flowers and cranberries, followed by a savoury, chalky tannin profile.
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer
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