2018 Valpolicella Classico, Ripasso, Lena di Mezzo, Monte del Frà, Veneto, Italy
About this WINE
Monte del Fra
Monte del Frà translates as ;Hill of Monks; and is located in the heart of the Bianco di Custoza DOC. It now consists of over 65 hectares of vineyards is owned and run by brothers Eligio and Claudio Bonomo. It is one of the most progressive and dynamic producers in the region and has been particularly innovative in its adoption of modern viticultural techniques.
Eligio Bonomo was the first producer in the region to retrain the traditionally 1.6m high cordon vines to lower-trained, single guyot systems. In the winery the Bonomos use thoroughly modern, clean and temperature-controlled fermentation and storage facilities in order to preserve the aromatic freshness in their wines. They produce very good-quality wines which are clean, display excellent purity of fruit and are elegant and well balanced.
Corvina, Corvinone blend
Corvina is widely grown on the Veneto shore of Lake Garda and the hills of Valpolicella to the north and north-east of Verona. Sometimes known as Corvina Veronese, it is blended with Rondinella and Molinara to produce Valpolicella and Bardolino. It can be a tricky grape to cultivate, as it ripens late and is prone to rot if affected by rains at harvest time. It is a high-yielding grape and quality is very dependent on keeping yields low.
Corvina-based red wines can range in style from a light, cherryish red to the rich, port-like Recioto and Amarone Valpolicellas. Most Valpolicella from the plains is pale and insipid, and bears little comparison with Valpolicella Classico from the hills. Some producers such as Allegrini are now producing very high quality 100% Corvina wines.
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Description
This benchmark Valpolicella is made by the progressive, widely respected Bonomo family. It’s grown in the single-estate Lena di Mezzo in the heart of the Classico village of Fumane. This is a blend of 80% Corvina and Corvinone with 20% Rondindella. The soils are a mix of tufo, clay and limestone, which gives minerality and aromatic expression. This is a brilliant example of a traditional style being improved upon by careful, modern winemaking. The 2018 is pure and deep yet wonderfully drinkable. Charming berry freshness leads to lip-puckering cherry fruit and peppery, cranberry-like freshness. The finish is mineral and cleansing. Drink now to 2025.
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (May 2021)
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