2018 Yjar, Telmo Rodriguez, Rioja, Spain
Critics reviews
Drink 2024 to 2044
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (August 2022)
About this WINE
Telmo Rodriguez
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the great Spanish winemakers. He travelled and learnt for many years before returning home to Rioja. In addition, he supervises négociant projects throughout Spain. One of his most acclaimed projects is in Ribera del Duero.
The charismatic Telmo has something of the prodigal about him, having now returned to his Riojan homestead to energise the great house of Remelluri. One should not overlook, however, his other properties, which explore some of the lesser-known areas of Spain and in each case seek to make superlative and characterful wines. Ribera del Duero is far from a lesser-known area, so it is to Telmo’s great credit, but to no-one’s surprise, that the wines he makes at Matallana are amongst the very best here too.
Tempranillo/Tinto Fino
A high quality red wine grape that is grown all over Spain except in the hot South - it is known as Tinto Fino in Ribera del Duero, Cencibel in La Mancha and Valdepenas and Ull de Llebre in Catalonia. Its spiritual home is in Rioja and Navarra where it constitutes around 70% of most red blends.
Tempranillo-based wines tend to have a spicy, herbal, tobacco-like character accompanied by ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits. It produces fresh, vibrantly fruit driven "jovenes" meant for drinking young. However Tempranillo really comes into its own when oak aged, as with the top Riojas where its flavours seem to harmonise perfectly with both French and American oak, producing rich, powerful and concentrated wines which can be extraordinarily long-lived.
In Ribera del Duero it generally sees less oak - the exception being Vega Sicilia where it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and then aged for an astonishing 7 years in oak and is unquestionably one of the world`s greatest wines.
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Description
Since this wine launched its inaugural vintage last September, I have visited the vineyard, which is tucked in a 3.8ha limestone-dominant corner of the bigger Remelluri estate. You feel the fragrant herbs of the surrounding hills in the wine, breathing proof of terroir into the glass. It means I have tasted this vintage both from barrel at the estate, and now in bottle, and it confirms that this is an extremely special wine. The 2018 is now four years since harvest and still has the raspberry violet blush of a young wine. The fragrance hits you as soon as you wave your nose over the glass, with freshly cut rosemary, sage and tarragon, along with violets, roses, heather, lemongrass and mandarin peel - just so much complexity and nuance. Takes off through the palate, rising through the finish to give a mouthwatering sign off. This was the wine I was most looking forward to trying again for the September Releases, and it does not disappoint.
Drink 2024 to 2044
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux (August 2022)
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