2018 Yjar, Telmo Rodriguez, Rioja, Spain

Since this wine launched its inaugural vintage last September, I have visited the vineyard, which is tucked in a 3.8ha limestone-dominant corner of the bigger Remelluri estate. You feel the fragrant herbs of the surrounding hills in the wine, breathing proof of terroir into the glass. It means I have tasted this vintage both from barrel at the estate, and now in bottle, and it confirms that this is an extremely special wine. The 2018 is now four years since harvest and still has the raspberry violet blush of a young wine. The fragrance hits you as soon as you wave your nose over the glass, with freshly cut rosemary, sage and tarragon, along with violets, roses, heather, lemongrass and mandarin peel - just so much complexity and nuance. Takes off through the palate, rising through the finish to give a mouthwatering sign off. This was the wine I was most looking forward to trying again for the September Releases, and it does not disappoint.

Drink 2024 to 2044.