2021 Berry Bros. & Rudd Puligny-Montrachet by Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Burgundy
About this WINE
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy
Jean-Louis Chavy is one of the sons of Gerard Chavy, and now runs his own Domaine. His brother Alain, now runs Domaine Gerard Chavy on his own.
Jean-Louis and Alain have split the families vineyards up between them with them sharing the Bourgogne Blanc, village Puligny Montrachet, the lieu-dit Charmes, as well as Premiers Crus Champs Gain, Clavoillons, and Folatieres vineyards. In addition Jean-Louis has control of the Premier Cru Perrieres parcel, while Alain kept the Pucelles parcel.
The winery was finished in 2004 and the winemaking and ageing style is traditional. It is early days to talk of a house style for Jean-Louis, but his wine are so far very elegant and without any noticeable oak influence.
Jasper Morris MW, author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Puligny-Montrachet
Puligny was one of two villages (along with Chassagne) which gained permission in 1879 to hyphenate the name of its most famous vineyard, Montrachet, to its own.
The reputation of Puligny-Montrachet is based around its four Grands Crus. Montrachet labels often boast a noble, triumphant 'Le' in front of its name, lest you dare confuse it with any lesser wine. It has much to be proud of, with many considering Montrachet to be the greatest white wine in the world. At its best it has an intensity, complexity and elegance that make you wonder how such a wine could be made from mere grapes.
The luxurious and explosive Chevalier-Montrachet is not quite as deep, although it is probably the next best. Only marginally less impressive, and rather more consistent than Montrachet is the richly textured Bâtard-Montrachet (also shared with Chassagne). Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet is equally good, with the focus on honeyed finesse and exquisite balance rather than richness.
These legendary wines are supported by a host of fabulous Premier Cru vineyards capable of reaching Grand Cru quality. Brimming with flavour and intensity, Le Cailleret and Les Pucelles (which both lie across the road from Le Montrachet) are prime candidates, along with Les Demoiselles, Les Combettes and Folatières.
Sandwiched between the larger Chassagne and Meursault, Puligny produces wines that are more striking than any in the Côte d’Or, portraying a floral elegance alongside a stylish, steely concentration. They are very different to Meursault: more refined and delicate, and less rich.
Village level Puligny-Montrachet from top growers can be very good indeed, but is all too often unexciting and disappointing. Grands Crus normally need at least eight years before they can be broached, and last for 20 or more. Premiers Crus should generally be enjoyed between five and 15 years of age; village wines from three to 10 years.
In theory, you can find red Puligny-Montrachet, but it scarcely exists anymore, and is rarely worth the price tag.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
The village of Puligny-Montrachet lies towards the south of the Côte de Beaune, itself the southern part of the famous Côte d’Or. Along with neighbouring Chassagne, Puligny-Montrachet takes its name from the lauded Grand Cru vineyard of Le Montrachet. Though there is a tiny amount of red wine produced in the village, its reputation is built on its long-lived white wines – of which this bottle is a wonderful example. It is produced for us by Jean-Louis Chavy, whose family have a long history in the region.
Cellar Plan members enjoy a 10% saving on this wine at checkout.
Tasting note
Jean-Louis Chavy has crafted a complex expression of this famous village. Fermented and aged in (20% new) oak, this is the archetypal elegant, floral and lacy Puligny. There’s a subtle perfume of white flowers and stone fruit; the palate is creamy, sophisticated and refreshing, with a spicy finish. This is perfect with Dover sole or creamy mushroom sauces.
Drink now to 2030
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
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