2022 Kumeu River, Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu, New Zealand
Critics reviews
25% new oak. Lemon drops are found in grapes tasted by Michael Brajkovich apparently and also in the wine. The price is edging closer to Maté’s.
Tense and racy and tight – sort of Chassagne/St-Aubin border?! More obvious acid and tension than in the other Kumeu River Chardonnays. You could definitely enjoy it already if you liked a leaner style but it would benefit from further ageing ideally. 13.5%
Drink 2024 - 2036
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (September 2023)
The 2022 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is mouthfilling and obvious in its outlay of flavor in the mouth—yellow peach, apricot, Golden Delicious apple, beeswax/lanolin and ripe lime flesh. The flutter of acidity that feathers the fruit is compelling and alluring in its power and juiciness. An exciting wine.
It's a wine I want to drink (I will; the perks) and a wine I am enjoying considering too. It's intellectual and sensorial/corporeal in equal measure. The Hunting Hill Vineyard was planted in 1982 and overlooks Mate's Vineyard. This is a pleasurable, exciting, fleshy, complex, salty, kaleidoscopic wine. Excellent. Recommended. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Drink 2023 - 2037
Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate (September 2023)
Fragrant, aromatic chardonnay with slightly green tree fruit flavours, citrus/lime and a backbone of nicely integrated and pleasantly vibrant acidity that helps drive a lengthy finish. A smattering of nutty yeast lees adds extra interest.
Bob Campbell, The Real Review (September 2023)
About this WINE
Kumeu River
Maté Brajkovich, a Dalmation by birth, arrived in New Zealand in 1938. In 1944 he and his parents purchased a property with a small vineyard and Kumeu River wines was born. However it was not until Michael, Mate's son, took over in 1982 that the true potential of the vineyards began to be fully realised.
Michael, the first New Zealander to become a Master of Wine, vastly improved the quality of the fruit though improved drainage systems, the growing of grass between the vine rows and by the introduction of the Lyre trellis system. Its two Chardonnays, the Kumeu River Chardonnay and the Matés Vineyard Chardonnay, are arguably the best in New Zealand and have been consecutively named in the Top one hundred Wines of the world by the Wine Spectator.
Auckland
At the head of North Island, the Auckland region brims with a disproportionate amount of wineries (17 percent of New Zealand's total), even though it is planted with just two percent of the country's vines.
Despite being on the doorstep of an affluent Auckland, the fairly humid, near-tropical climate and fertile soils makes fine wine little more than a pipe dream – the notable exception being Kumeu River Wines, where the tireless work of the Brajkovich family in taming the vines while honing their winemaking has resulted in the country's finest Chardonnays.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Description
There is no doubt in the weight and quality here is nothing short of impressive. On the nose a fresh and powerful bouquet of citrus blossom awakes the senses. Zingy and zesty citrus is both refreshing and juicy and spans the entire spectrum from lemons and limes, through to red grapefruit and a touch of sharp pineapple.
The vast characteristics carry through perfectly on the palate and there is just the right amount of seasoning with a perfectly balanced salinity. Something about the profile of the citrus fruits gives the illusion of a higher acidity, it is absolutely mouthwatering and a wine I would have no hesitation in collecting.
Amy Johnson, Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (September 2023)
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