2010 Condrieu, La Loye, Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin
Critics reviews
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Oct 2011)
(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - Oct 2011)
About this WINE
Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin
Farming an outstanding plot of 10 hectares in Côte-Rôtie and another of a similar size (and quality) in Condrieu, Jean-Michel Gerin is one of the acknowledged masters of the region, imbuing Syrah with a wonderful purity and bringing out the full richness of Viognier. He is not only one of the great characters, but also one of the greatest winemakers in the Northern Rhône.
Gerin's winemaking methods aim for fragrance and sumptuous texture, with the wines' substance based on fruit rather than tannic mass. He employs copious use of wood, yet his wines seem to integrate it in a remarkable way, a model for subtly oaked fruit purity.
In addition to his appellation sites, he also makes excellent and well-priced Vins de Pays, and, to demonstrate both his passion and his pioneering spirit, he also has a vineyard in Priorat, a highly successful joint venture with Laurent Combier of Crozes-Hermitage.
Viognier
A white grape variety originating in the Northern Rhône and which in the last ten years has been increasingly planted in the Southern Rhône and the Languedoc.
It is a poor-yielding grape that is notoriously fickle to grow, being susceptible to a whole gamut of pests and diseases. Crucially it must be picked at optimum ripeness - if harvested too early and under-ripe the resulting wine can be thin, dilute and unbalanced, while if picked too late then the wine will lack the grape's distinctive peach and honeysuckle aroma. It is most successfully grown in the tiny appellations of Château-Grillet and Condrieu where it thrives on the distinctive arzelle granite-rich soils. It is also grown in Côte Rôtie where it lends aromatic richness to the wines when blended with Syrah.
Viognier has been on the charge in the Southern Rhône and the Languedoc throughout the 1990s and is now a key component of many white Côtes du Rhône. In Languedoc and Rousillon it is increasingly being bottled unblended and with notable success with richly fragrant wines redolent of overripe apricots and peaches and selling at a fraction of the price of their Northern Rhône cousins.
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Description
Jean Michel manages to combine elegance and concentration in this cuvée, 30% of which is fermented and matured in barrique, the balance in stainless steel. The notes of spring flowers, honeysuckle and dried apricots are all pleasingly present, complemented, perfectly, by a firm and flinty shard of mineral acidity, which lends structure and shape.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, January 2012
Jean Michel is one of the great characters of the Rhône Valley, a natural leader with a keen sense of humour and an almost Messianic zeal when it comes to promoting the wines of Côte Rôtie and ensuring that they take their rightful place at the High Table of the great wines of the world. And, as seems to be the case in a number of properties in the valley his children are now taking key roles with both Mikael and Alexei sharing their father’s philosophy. 2010, they believe, is every bit as good as 2009, the latter a vintage with more alcohol and less fruit and natural acidity. 2010 is the year of harmonious natural equilibrium and as a result its wines will last longer.
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