Valdeorras

Fermented in foudre (large oak), this is Rafa’s “entry-level” Godello but there is nothing simple about it; yields were incredibly low in the 2017 vintage due to frost and drought, so the fruit is even more concentrated and complex than normal. The nose is full of peach, crunchy pear and soft minerality, while the palate is taut and saline. There’s a citrus and mineral intensity, with real palate weight which creates a textured mouth-feel. This is a fascinatingly different wine from the previous vintage but nonetheless maintains that same streak of pure salinity that defines Rafa’s wines and which underlines why he is often referred to as the best white winemaker in Spain.
Catriona Felstead MW, Wine Buyer

The 2017 vintage was complicated, with severe frosts and drier conditions than usual resulting in around 40 percent less production than in a normal year for As Sortes. The resultant wine however has incredible concentration and ripeness but, despite that, the whole profile of this wine remains about finesse and elegance. The nose has a touch of tropical green fruit coming through, yet is still fine and fresh. The palate contains a touch of passionfruit and guava yet the overriding sense is of juicy lemons, with a pithy backbone maintaining freshness. All the expected stone and saline character of fine Godello still comes through and the wine is straight-backed and refreshing. This is a fascinating and delicious expression of As Sortes. Drink 2019 to 2025.