Gevrey Chambertin
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in Burgundy’s Côte d'Or. Located in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits, the classic style is typically deeper in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. While in the past there have been myriad underperformers here, the overall quality is now higher than ever and the best can develop into the most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world.
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Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
Ready, but will keep,
Made by Rossignol-Trapet, our 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin is made with fruit from 10 organically farmed, old-vine plots. The old vines provide both concentration and balance, while the varied locations of the parcels give a true expression of the village. A bouquet of vibrant redcurrant and flowers seduces, while the palate is packed with sweet cherry fruit and subtle spice, finishing on a precise and mineral finish. Try it with roast lamb or mushroom Wellington.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
For laying down,
This comes from a mixture of parcels on clay, clay and gravel, and gravel. The latter suffered this year from drought stress, so there is no La Justice in this year’s blend. The wine has hallmark Rossignol gentle fruit but with a subtly intensifying palate. More than the sum of its parts. Drink 2020-2024.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
Louis Boillot,
For laying down,
Louis has eight different parcels around Gevrey which contain some of his domaine’s oldest vines. There is lots of immediate charm and the wine is very easy to taste. The tannins are easy and silky. A lovely example of 2017 without artifice. Drink 2020-2024.
Louis began his harvest on 28th August on his earlier Côte de Beaune vineyards and enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the harvest, which ended nine days later. He volunteers that there is less structure than in 2016 but he likes the fruity, gourmand style. This year he looked for freshness and aromatics. “Quatorze degrés n’est pas Pinot,” says Louis (“14 degrees [of alcohol] is not Pinot”). He will bottle earlier, without fining or filtration, as usual. A very pretty range this year, delicious and pure.
Louis began his harvest on 28th August on his earlier Côte de Beaune vineyards and enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the harvest, which ended nine days later. He volunteers that there is less structure than in 2016 but he likes the fruity, gourmand style. This year he looked for freshness and aromatics. “Quatorze degrés n’est pas Pinot,” says Louis (“14 degrees [of alcohol] is not Pinot”). He will bottle earlier, without fining or filtration, as usual. A very pretty range this year, delicious and pure.
Domaine Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet,
For laying down,
From vines over 40 years old and from 23 different plots, this wine will spend 18 months in oak, 30 percent of it new (after no new oak last year). As Eric predicted, the wine is very pleasing and there is a gentle creaminess about the palate. Very pleasurable. Drink 2020-2024.
It was very good to see a cellar full of 2017s and ’18s for the Burguet brothers, Eric and Jean-Luc, after the double tribulations of frost and mildew last year. Eric suggests that 2017 is not a year of complexity, but one of simple pleasure. The harvest began on 10th September (five days after Armand Rousseau, Eric noted) and the yields were generous, although their triple sorting of bunches, berries and whole berries did reduce the volume. All the wines will be bottled directly from barrel, without fining or filtration.
It was very good to see a cellar full of 2017s and ’18s for the Burguet brothers, Eric and Jean-Luc, after the double tribulations of frost and mildew last year. Eric suggests that 2017 is not a year of complexity, but one of simple pleasure. The harvest began on 10th September (five days after Armand Rousseau, Eric noted) and the yields were generous, although their triple sorting of bunches, berries and whole berries did reduce the volume. All the wines will be bottled directly from barrel, without fining or filtration.
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin,
For laying down,
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru includes 50% whole bunch fruit and matures in 60% new oak. It has an intense bouquet with notes of blackberry, blueberry, crushed stone and hints of graphite, the terroir showing through nicely here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and gentle grip. I feel the new oak taking a more backseat role compared to previous vintages, that allows the terroir to really show through on the precise finish. This is an excellent Clos Saint-Jacques from Sylvie Esmonin.
Neal Martin, Vinous (January 2019)
Neal Martin, Vinous (January 2019)
Benjamin Leroux,
For laying down,
The Gevrey-Chambertin is becoming somewhat totemic for Ben, produced mostly in a beautiful 35hl foudre which Ben feels gives the wine more elegance, finesse and precision than traditional 228-litre barrels. With gorgeous, sweet red cherry fruit, a charming softness and supple tannins, it is hard to disagree with his assessment. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
Domaine Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet,
For laying down,
This is made from the oldest vineyards, from 30 parcels with no vines younger than 70 years old. This will spend 20 months in oak, 55 percent new. The wine is also held on its lees for the whole period, adding a plusher texture. Its spicy, succulent aroma, supported by an understated ferric infrastructure, is as good as many Premiers Crus. Drink 2021-2026.
It was very good to see a cellar full of 2017s and ’18s for the Burguet brothers, Eric and Jean-Luc, after the double tribulations of frost and mildew last year. Eric suggests that 2017 is not a year of complexity, but one of simple pleasure. The harvest began on 10th September (five days after Armand Rousseau, Eric noted) and the yields were generous, although their triple sorting of bunches, berries and whole berries did reduce the volume. All the wines will be bottled directly from barrel, without fining or filtration.
It was very good to see a cellar full of 2017s and ’18s for the Burguet brothers, Eric and Jean-Luc, after the double tribulations of frost and mildew last year. Eric suggests that 2017 is not a year of complexity, but one of simple pleasure. The harvest began on 10th September (five days after Armand Rousseau, Eric noted) and the yields were generous, although their triple sorting of bunches, berries and whole berries did reduce the volume. All the wines will be bottled directly from barrel, without fining or filtration.
Tawse,
For laying down,
This is a blend of eight different parcels, with just over 20 percent new oak and 20 percent whole-bunch. This is delicious from the first sniff; rich, ripe red fruit emerges from the glass along with some sweet spice and a touch of earthy minerality. The palate has good, medium weight of strawberry fruit and pleasing freshness. There’s impressive concentration and surprising structure. Drink 2020-2026.
Our relationship with Domaine Tawse goes back many years, to the days of Domaine Maume, which was purchased in 2012 by Canadian Moray Tawse. Since then there have been shrewd additions of vineyards in Beaune, Savigny and Volnay, the winemaking has moved to MarchandTawse’s facility in Nuits-St Georges and a bright, affable English winemaker by the name of Mark Fincham has been installed. Having previously made wine at Domaine du Pegau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mark is realising his dream of making Burgundy. The vineyards are worked organically and biodynamically, often with the help of a horse. The style here is clean, precise and terroir-driven.
Mark feels the 2017s are simply lovely wines, with real freshness and a focus on red fruit. For the reds, he de-stemmed a larger proportion than in the past, feeling that the stems were slightly less ripe than he would like, particularly in the cooler Gevrey vineyards, and could impart some green character. All the vineyards are already certified organic, but they are in the process of obtaining biodynamic certification too. This was the first vintage made entirely in the cellars in Nuits, having left the Maume property in Gevrey shortly after the 2016 harvest.
Our relationship with Domaine Tawse goes back many years, to the days of Domaine Maume, which was purchased in 2012 by Canadian Moray Tawse. Since then there have been shrewd additions of vineyards in Beaune, Savigny and Volnay, the winemaking has moved to MarchandTawse’s facility in Nuits-St Georges and a bright, affable English winemaker by the name of Mark Fincham has been installed. Having previously made wine at Domaine du Pegau in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mark is realising his dream of making Burgundy. The vineyards are worked organically and biodynamically, often with the help of a horse. The style here is clean, precise and terroir-driven.
Mark feels the 2017s are simply lovely wines, with real freshness and a focus on red fruit. For the reds, he de-stemmed a larger proportion than in the past, feeling that the stems were slightly less ripe than he would like, particularly in the cooler Gevrey vineyards, and could impart some green character. All the vineyards are already certified organic, but they are in the process of obtaining biodynamic certification too. This was the first vintage made entirely in the cellars in Nuits, having left the Maume property in Gevrey shortly after the 2016 harvest.
Benjamin Leroux,
For laying down,
The style of the vintage suggested to Ben that this year all his Gevrey should be in 228-litre barrels, having used a 3,500-litre foudre last year. He has also got his hands on some good quality old-vine fruit as well. Again, Ben has captured the succulence of the year but also found intensity. Drink 2020-2025.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
Louis Boillot,
For laying down,
This high vineyard is usually a little austere but this is almost seductive. Spicy with notes of blood orange, the palate is fluid before the more architectural tannins reassert themselves. Really delicious and forthright. Drink 2020-2026.
Louis began his harvest on 28th August on his earlier Côte de Beaune vineyards and enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the harvest, which ended nine days later. He volunteers that there is less structure than in 2016 but he likes the fruity, gourmand style. This year he looked for freshness and aromatics. “Quatorze degrés n’est pas Pinot,” says Louis (“14 degrees [of alcohol] is not Pinot”). He will bottle earlier, without fining or filtration, as usual. A very pretty range this year, delicious and pure.
Louis began his harvest on 28th August on his earlier Côte de Beaune vineyards and enjoyed bright sunshine throughout the harvest, which ended nine days later. He volunteers that there is less structure than in 2016 but he likes the fruity, gourmand style. This year he looked for freshness and aromatics. “Quatorze degrés n’est pas Pinot,” says Louis (“14 degrees [of alcohol] is not Pinot”). He will bottle earlier, without fining or filtration, as usual. A very pretty range this year, delicious and pure.
For laying down,
From 10 parcels with an average age of 50 years, this is raised in 30 percent new oak. The basic material is excellent and there is plenty of freshness, overlaid by the oak, but there are really good things here for those who are patient. Drink 2022-2026.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
For laying down,
This is made from the domaine’s “younger” vines (a modest 50 years old on average) and parcels which are spread across Gevrey, but mostly on heavier soil and flatter sites. This produces a pleasant, middle-weight Gevrey with bright, red berry fruit on entry and a surprising level of tannic grip on the finish that points to a promising future. Drink 2021-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with a niece (Frédérique) in the vineyards and cuverie, and a daughter (Karine) in the office, continuity is in place. The style here is for powerful wines which age exceptionally well. Christian Sérafin’s niece Frédérique feels that 2016 is “une grande année de garde”, and could well surpass 2015. In fact, her confidence in the vintage is such that all the wines will be raised entirely in new oak barrels. The most badly-frosted vineyards were Bourgogne and Chambolle Baudes, which suffered 60 percent frost. Overall yields were down by around 50 percent but the cousins expect to release a larger proportion of the crop than usual en primeur in order to minimise the immediate impact of the losses. These are certainly wines which deserve long- term ageing.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This domaine was originally put on the map by Christian Sérafin’s father, Stanilaus Sérafin, a Polish émigré, who settled in Burgundy before the war. He initially worked as a mason, before purchasing some land in 1947 and establishing himself as a vigneron. His son Christian inherited the domaine in 1988, though he had been making the wine for the previous 20 years. Christian Sérafin is now past retirement age, but with a niece (Frédérique) in the vineyards and cuverie, and a daughter (Karine) in the office, continuity is in place. The style here is for powerful wines which age exceptionally well. Christian Sérafin’s niece Frédérique feels that 2016 is “une grande année de garde”, and could well surpass 2015. In fact, her confidence in the vintage is such that all the wines will be raised entirely in new oak barrels. The most badly-frosted vineyards were Bourgogne and Chambolle Baudes, which suffered 60 percent frost. Overall yields were down by around 50 percent but the cousins expect to release a larger proportion of the crop than usual en primeur in order to minimise the immediate impact of the losses. These are certainly wines which deserve long- term ageing.
Domaine Guyon,
Ready, but will improve,
A blend of three parcels of vines between 80 and 90 years old, there is great density here, with abundant griotte cherry and a wild, almost garrigue-like spice. The mid-palate is full and creamy, while brisk acidity and peppery tannins keep everything in check. Drink 2020-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.
Domaine Guyon,
Ready, but will improve,
It is revealing when different tasters independently ascribe identical descriptors. Griotte (morello cherry) featured in the 2016 and here it is again. Once more, it is the age and health of the vines, from three parcels of 80 to 90 years old that give the wine its intensity. Drink 2020-2025.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Benjamin Leroux,
For laying down,
The most northerly Premier Cru of Gevrey, the vineyard is both high and east-facing. This lends the bouquet a mouth-watering note of crushed berry and the palate a certain severity, leading to pinpointed fruit and sculpted tannins. One to keep. Drink 2023-2029.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet,
For laying down,
The deeper clays here give more structure and a more robust cloak to the wine. This is in the same dip that attracted the frost in 1985 and very close to Clos Prieur, but this is a more forthright and stronger style, and will need a little longer to come round. Drink 2023-2029.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
For Nicolas, with the domaine’s focus on biodynamics, this was an année calme, a welcome respite between 2016 and 2018. His biggest challenge was to manage the pruning of the canes affected by last year’s frosts, so a green harvest was necessary as well. Harvesting started on 5th September in their Beaune-Teurons. He opted for lighter extraction this year with no punchdowns, but some délestage (rack and return) for aeration. Nicolas feels the style is very close to their 2016s. It is certainly a fine range this year and proof that good vineyard work was key to success.
For laying down,
Sérafin’s vines sit within a clos of sorts, in what used to be a cemetery. The vines are 50 years old and the wine has an appealing fragrant top note with a touch more complexity than the village wine. Karine views this as a typical expression of Gevrey. Drink 2022-2027.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
For laying down,
This is just above Corbeaux but further towards the Combe de Lavaux, thus north-facing, although it gets sun all day. The topsoil is especially feeble and the underlying rock is very hard. Unsurprising then that the wine should offer both ripeness and precision, and very successfully. Drink 2023-2028.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
The harvest was done early and quickly here, starting on 6th September and finished by 12th. Karine Sérafin explained that the estate was harvesting earlier than before, to keep more freshness in the wines, and also working more with leaf coverage. The old vines negated any need to green harvest and yields are up by only 20 percent from 2016, but otherwise Karine and her cousin Frédérique are intent on preserving the individuality of Christian Sérafin’s style for vins de garde, with 100 percent new oak for everything upwards from the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes.
Maison Camille Giroud,
For laying down,
David’s deft hand has produced an elegant Charmes- Chambertin, which is very prettily perfumed, with fine raspberry fruit. Everything is as it should be structurally, with neither acidity nor tannins impeding the succulence of the fruit; this has an agreeably persistent finish.
Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.
Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd