Domaine Yves Cuilleron

Preternaturally energetic, Yves Cuilleron is never far away from the action. The action these days – if you will pardon the vernacular – is definitely in Cornas, at least as far as the northern Rhône is concerned. It, therefore, comes as no surprise that Yves has taken contractual ownership of a finely delineated granitic terrace just above the village. The wine resembles the man – cerebral, sturdy and yet with plenty of vivacity. The 2012 is a worthy imprimatur. 
Simon Field MW, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Bassenon comes from the south of the appellation, its soils dominated by granite and gneiss. Rather confusingly, the name does not refer to a lieu-dit per se, rather a small stream which runs through the vines in question. 10% of Viognier is co-planted with the Syrah and 50% of new oak has been used. Floral, with violets and crushed raspberries on the nose, the wine is silky, long and very fine, in both senses of the word.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Energetic, dynamic and likeable, Yves Cuilleron is seen as the most influential and, at times, the most outspoken of the Northern Rhône producers. The completely rebuilt winery at Chavanay is testament to both his success and ambition; Yves’ skill lies in disseminating the minutiae of terroir (now, in my view, with even better results as the use of new wood has been relaxed a little). ‘Tendu’ seemed to be his most popular adjective used to describe the 2011s: ‘tight-knit, nervous, and with potential’ is my rather prosaic and, in all probability, not entirely accurate translation, a little close to a personification perhaps.

From the southern (Blonde) granitic vineyards, this cuvée contains 10% Viognier and is aged in 50% new oak for 18 months. The wine has classic aromatics of bacon rind and hot house plants, with a plush, pleasing mid-palate, with hints of woodsmoke and black olive also evidenced.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Yves Cuilleron compares 2012 to 2011; for him the vintage has more concentration and power than its immediate forebear. His house philosophy, whether by accident or design, mirrors the current fashions for later harvests and the addition of a varying degree of stems. Both engender structure and complexity when treated with due respect. Given that there is not the remotest sign of the green on the one hand or the over-ripe on the other, we can infer conspicuous success in these wines.

The Côte Brune vineyards of Les Roziers and Les Rochains, near to La Landonne itself, provide the fruit for this perennial favourite. The wine is dark and tight, with intense aromas of thyme, liquorice and smoked meat. The complexity continues onto the palate and underwrites ageing potential. This vintage, for Yves, shares the family traits of 2010 and even the under-rated 2006 (which is delicious now); very fine pedigree, in other words, but perhaps more elegant than so-called sunshine years such as 2009 or the irredeemably tannic 2005. Drink 2020-2026.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer

The Terres Sombres in question are located in the central lieux-dits of Rochins and Rozier and, further to the north, La Viaillière. The wine will have aged for 20 months or so at bottling and is justly regarded as one of the finest in the appellation. Grilled meat, tapenade and ripe plums underwrite great potential.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer

Energetic, dynamic and likeable, Yves Cuilleron is seen as the most influential and, at times, the most outspoken of the Northern Rhône producers. The completely rebuilt winery at Chavanay is testament to both his success and ambition; Yves’ skill lies in disseminating the minutiae of terroir (now, in my view, with even better results as the use of new wood has been relaxed a little). ‘Tendu’ seemed to be his most popular adjective used to describe the 2011s: ‘tight-knit, nervous, and with potential’ is my rather prosaic and, in all probability, not entirely accurate translation, a little close to a personification perhaps.

The eponymous soils are mainly schistous in the so-called Brune half of the appellation, indeed they are not far removed from Côte Brune itself. The palate is dominated by blue fruit, bay leaf and cooked meat; its linear profile underlined by a distinctive gunflint finish. Explosive, but in a carefully controlled fashion.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer 

Yves Cuilleron compares 2012 to 2011; for him the vintage has more concentration and power than its immediate forebear. His house philosophy, whether by accident or design, mirrors the current fashions for later harvests and the addition of a varying degree of stems. Both engender structure and complexity when treated with due respect. Given that there is not the remotest sign of the green on the one hand or the over-ripe on the other, we can infer conspicuous success in these wines. 

The Terres Sombres in question here are located in the central lieux-dits of Rochins and Rozier, and, further to the north, La Viallière. The wine is justly regarded as one of the finest in the appellation. Grilled meat, tapenade and ripe plums underwrite a wine with great potential. Drink 2014-2020.

Aptly named, the ‘Vertige’ is sourced from Yves’ oldest, highest and best parcel of vines in the prestigious commune of Vernon (think Vernay) at the north end of the appellation Aged for 18 months with lees stirring every month, the wine is a plush tapestry, rich and creamy but also finely woven with notes of iodine, slate and white pepper joining the more usual yellow fruit descriptions. Behind the cashmere softness a shaft of mineral acidity lends focus and definition.
Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer, February 2012

Our visit to Yves this year, despite its first-after-lunch graveyard slot, was one of the best of them all. Perhaps it was a fruit day! The wines were singing and Yves was composed and confident, clearly very happy with the vintage. For him the long ripening season of 2010, with its significant diurnal temperature variations, was the key to quality. The vigneron’s Grand Master chess skills were fully exercised in the decision of when to harvest… a tricky decision of course, each plot being different, but now, finally I understand the purpose of each of the many varied cuvées in the range and there appears to be some stability and a real sense of purpose in the winemaking….and not too much new oak now…..The enfant terrible has really come of age…

Most Exciting Wines of the Vintage:  St Joseph, Les Serines, Domaine Yves Cuilleron
Yves' range boasts a plethora of superbly crafted, different cuvées but for me this one stood out, as it has done in past vintages. Of his St Joseph wines this one comes from the oldest vines, displaying immense concentration wrapped up in a robe of sublime elegance and purity. The tannins are very finegrained, the balance is perfect and there is a seamless harmony between all the component parts. From the more southern vineyards of Yves’ 18 hectares in St Jospeh, Les Serines is sourced from 40-year-old vines and aged for 18 months. It displays classic St Joseph shape and purity, with fine minerality and almost Burgundian red-fruit charm in the mid-palate.

Sourced from older vines, the evocatively named Terres Sombres is a fine vin de garde, which will have been aged for 22 months by the time of bottling. A little closed now, quite understandably, there is great potential here with notes of dense black fruit, tar and liqueur de cassis evidenced.

From predominantly schistose soils in the north of the appellation, this is a wine which combines beautiful tapenade/violet aromatics with a very serious palate, with firm, well-bred tannins cloaking the fruit, and adding a fine architectural framework.
Simon Field M.W. - Rhne Buyer