Bodegas Lustau, Palo Cortado, Almacenista Cayetano del Pino y Cía, Jerez, Spain
Critics reviews
Luis Gutirrez - 29/08/2013
About this WINE
Bodegas Emilio Lustau
Emilio Lustau was established in 1896 and was initially a small family concern until the founder`s son-in-law placed it on a business footing.
The firm is perhaps best known as pioneering the Almacenista system, whereby individual dry sherries are produced from small private holdings. These are bottled under Lustau`s name but with the individual bodega's name on the label as well. Today they are amongst the most sought-out Sherries in the region.
The firm also produces superb wines from its recently acquired 170 hectare Montenegrillo vineyard.
Palo Cortado Sherry
Palo Cortado Sherry is not just a rare and highly esteemed style of Sherry, it's a unique bridge between Amontillado and Oloroso. Originating from the Jerez region in Andalusia, Spain, it's prized for its exceptional complexity and depth. Crafted primarily from the Palomino grape, this Sherry undergoes a distinctive ageing process that imparts a harmonious balance of freshness and richness, making it a sought-after choice among connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike.
The production of Palo Cortado begins similarly to other Sherries, with the fermentation of Palomino grapes known for their high acidity and neutral flavour profile. Initially, the wine is aged under a layer of flor yeast, which imparts delicate, fresh characteristics typical of Fino Sherries. However, unlike Fino or Amontillado, Palo Cortado undergoes an unexpected transition when the flor unexpectedly diminishes or dies. This abrupt cessation of biological ageing allows the wine to begin oxidative ageing, akin to Oloroso, resulting in a unique and complex flavour profile that sets Palo Cortado apart from other Sherry styles. The ageing process is meticulously managed using the traditional Solera system, ensuring consistency and enhancing the wine’s intricate flavours over time.
Palo Cortado Sherry boasts a deep amber to mahogany colour, indicating its oxidative ageing. Its aroma is a captivating blend of roasted nuts, dried fruits, and subtle hints of spice, complemented by undertones of vanilla and toasted oak. Palo Cortado is remarkably smooth and velvety on the palate, offering a full-bodied texture with a perfect balance of acidity and richness. The flavour profile is complex, featuring layers of hazelnuts, almonds, figs, and a touch of dark chocolate, all harmoniously intertwined with a lingering, elegant finish. This sophisticated combination of flavours and textures makes Palo Cortado an exceptional wine that appeals to those seeking depth and complexity in their Sherry.
When it comes to food pairings, Palo Cortado Sherry is not just versatile, it's incredibly so. Its robust and nuanced profile makes it an excellent match for rich meats such as roasted lamb or beef, as well as hearty stews and game dishes. Additionally, it pairs beautifully with aged cheeses like Manchego or Parmigiano-Reggiano, enhancing their savoury flavours without overpowering them. For those who enjoy seafood, it complements dishes like seared scallops or smoked salmon, where its complexity can stand up to and elevate the flavours of the dish. Its versatility also extends to dessert pairings, where it can be enjoyed alongside dark chocolate desserts or nut-based sweets, providing a luxurious and memorable end to any meal.
Palo Cortado Sherry is prestigious in Spanish winemaking tradition, celebrated for its rarity and exceptional quality. Its unique production process and complex flavour profile make it a standout choice for special occasions and fine dining experiences. Produced by some of the most respected bodegas in the Jerez region, Palo Cortado exemplifies the meticulous craftsmanship and rich heritage that define Spanish Sherry.
Palomino Fino
Palomino, named after Fernan Yanez Palomonio, one of King Alfonso X`s knights, is the primary grape variety for Sherry styles (Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado) production.
It is a high yielding variety that is widely planted in Spain producing mostly insipid thin, dull wines lacking in fruit and acidity. However it thrives on the predominantly chalk based soils of Cadiz where it produces large bunches of golden yellow grapes, which ripen in early September. The resulting must is transparent in colour and somewhat neutral in flavour, but the subsequent wine can develop a coating of flor before maturing in the solera system and produce a whole range of intense and aromatic sherries.
It is also grown in South Africa, California, and Australia where it is fortified to make sherry-style wines.
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Description
Relatively new to the celebrated Almacenista family, this 22 butt Solera produces an enigmatically fresh yet persuasively powerful Palo Cortado, the sherry style which is to me both the hardest to fathom and, not unrelated, the most potentially rewarding. Stylistically it sits half way between Amontillado and Oloroso, maintaining the elegance of the former and the nutty complexity of the later, combining them effortlessly with a mysterious and nearly alchemical brio.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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