2008 Champagne Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Brut
Critics reviews
Constructed from a tapestry of vineyards from the Cote des Blancs, 5% is vinified in new oak. Tasted several times since 2013, due for release sometime this year (2020). It has been interesting to follow this wine as it has developed on its lees, the earliest iteration was buried under a mountain of fruit esters and acidity, while slowly revealing itself over the years with successive trial disgorgements.
When last tasted in 2017, a nervy, unyielding wine, that tingles with energy and potential, possibly one of the wines of the vintage. Precise, citrus fresh, with complexity and impossible length. Chablis-like minerality with a weightless, juicy density, certainly a wine to lose in your cellar for a couple of decades. Superb!
Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (November 2017)
Served from magnum, the 2008 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is stunning. Vivid citrus fruit on the nose with crushed stone, this is initially quite taut but then develops gorgeous scents of orange pith and citrus peel. The palate is very concentrated, perfectly balanced, extremely pure with an almost penetrating finish that has the salinity to beckon you back for another sip. I would be interested to juxtapose this with a 750mls bottle as it felt quite backward. Both formats surely have a very long life ahead. Tasted at the Amos Bursary charity dinner at 67 Pall Mall.
Drink 2021 - 2045
Neil Martin, Vinous.com (March 2022)
The 2008 Comtes de Champagne is every bit as stunning as it has always been. The first signs of aromatic complexity are starting to appear, while there is a bit less of the youthful austerity that was present at the outset. It will be interesting to see how the 2018 continues to develop. It is certainly not the austere, bracing Champagne it was a few years ago. Hints of apricot, slate, mint, crushed rocks and light tropical accents build into the salivating finish.
Drink 2022 - 2048
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (May 2022)
Taittinger's 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is being released this year, and it will be worth a special effort to track down. I wrote in August 2019 that this is the finest Comtes de Champagne since the brilliant 2002, and this tasting confirmed that. Offering up a deep and complex bouquet of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, warm brioche, crushed chalk, blanched almonds and smoke, it's full-bodied and incisive, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a long, searingly chalky finish. While this is already immensely impressive out of the gates, this 2008 is clearly built for the long haul, and three decades' longevity won't be a challenge.
Drink 2021 - 2048
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (September 2020)
Disgorged 3 June 2021. Deep gold. Great breadth and richness of flavour but still, texturally, it is tight as anything. Rather an unusual mixture! Incredibly impressive length and the crème-pâtissière note often found in Comtes. But no real hurry to drink.
Drink 2022 - 2034
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (September 2022)
The perfect blanc de blancs. Full-bodied with a lovely framework of acidity and dry fruit, such as apples, pears and peaches. Opulent. Dense and muscular. Yet, it’s balanced and harmonious. Line of acidity at the end. Totally in tune. Superb. Deep and complete. Has everything. One for the cellar. It is the greatest Comte ever. It has everything. A perfect upgrade from two years.
James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (July 2022)
After a cool, rainy spring and unsettled flowering, the weather in 2008 cleared in time to deliver a large crop of ripe, balanced grapes with lovely balancing acidity. The Comtes from 2008 is a fantastic success, with aromas of ripe pear, peach, bergamot and chamomile. There is a luxe style to the rich, creamy texture with its gentle yet persistent mousse. The fresh acidity and a subtle, pleasant bitterness bring balance and impressive length to the wine.
Drink 2022 - 2050
Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.com (January 2022)
About this WINE
Champagne Taittinger
Taittinger is one of the few family-owned independent Champagne houses in Reims. It produces a very classy Non-Vintage blend and complex Vintage Champagnes as well.
Its top Champagne is Comtes De Champagne - first produced in 1952, it is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from 6 Grand Cru sites in the Côte de Blancs. This is finely aromatic, rich, creamy Blanc de Blancs at its best, though patience is required as the wine should not be approached for at least ten years.
Blanc de Blancs
In Champagne, the term Blanc de Blancs designates Champagnes made only from white grape varieties, either as blends or single-varietal wines. The vineyards located between Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger in Côte des Blancs yield the best examples of the style.
A classic Blanc de Blancs is restrained and elegant when young, yet with ageing it develops a mouth-coating brioche richness that overlays an intense expression of fruitiness. Blanc de Blancs are endowed with longer ageing potential than a typical Blanc de Noirs.
Recommended Producers: Salon, Billecart Salmon, Jacques Selosse, Dom Ruinart, Krug, Le Mesnil Grand Cru, Guy Larmandier
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
An incredibly fresh, mineral and focused Champagne with aromas and flavours opening up in the glass beautifully. The nose is highly perfumed bringing notes of white flowers, fresh citrus fruits, lemon, grapefruit-like, with white peach and fresh yeasty dough coming along. On the palate the wine has a gentle creamy entry and shows racy acidity, amazing purity and steeliness, it will go a long way. Flavours of lemon, lime and orchards with touches of white pepper with a chalky finish and impeccable balance, truly exquisite and amazing vintage of Comtes to buy now and leave in the cellar for a few years.
Drink 2024 - 2040
Berry Bros. & Rudd
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