2015 Henschke, Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley, Australia

The original 'ancestor' vines in this, Australia's most iconic vineyard, are more than 160 years old. Rich alluvial soils and gnarled old vines. Cyril Henschke made the first single-vineyard wine from them in 1958. For viticulturist Prue and winemaker Stephen Henschke, they are the family's crown jewels.

Some might be surprised by how translucent a garnet this wine is – concentration is clearly no virtue here. Hauntingly well-integrated nose seems more evolved than that of stablemate Mount Edelstone – although admittedly I have had this wine in a young wine decanter for two hours – and would advise others to do the same. It's so much more of a Côte Rôtie than a Hermitage! Fresh and playful rather than brooding. It builds on the finish in a sort of Burgundian way. Aromas of tar, iodine and dried brush. Great precision and a saline finish. A hugely confident style and so unlike the medicinal concentration of Penfolds Grange made down the hill in Barossa Valley.

Drink 2020 - 2040

Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2020)

I briefly thought about just cutting and pasting the review of the 2014 into this space for the 2015 Hill of Grace Shiraz, but on further reflection, there are some differences between them—and isn't that one of the reasons we love wine? Scents of smoked meat and mocha accent notes of black olives and blackberries, joined by subtle notions of resinous herbs, while the full-bodied palate comes across as slightly weightier, richer and more velvety in texture than the 2014. Not as elegant perhaps, but more concentrated and powerful on the long, long finish.

Drink 2022 - 2045

Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (May 2020)

A collector’s dream. Vinolok closure.

A significant vintage for Hill of Grace, as the last 2015 red to leave the Henschke cellar, and a wine that delivers on every ounce of its promise and then some. The nose is so complex and fragrant with trademark brown spices taking centre stage, amid light espresso, sage leaves, blackberries, cinnamon, anise, orange peel, ripe dark plums, pepper, gun smoke and a gentle, dried-rose edge. The palate has such impressive layers of fine tannin that make an instantly seamless, powerful and focused impression. 

It has an architectural style with clean lines that build and ascend out of the finish. Long, spiced blackberries and dark plums are extruded in formation with such finesse and power. The acidity holds a torch to the rich, ripe plums and blackberries, illuminating freshness at the finish. A wine that will develop in a very consistent manner and is likely to be at its best some 20 years from now.

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com (January 2021)

The 58th vintage and 54th release of this famous Shiraz, from a 4-ha vineyard of up to 160-year-old vines. 

There’s intriguing darkness and complexity in a heady perfume of measured black fruits and dried sage, unfurling layers of juicy cranberry, Chinese five spice and black pepper. There’s open-hearted generosity on the palate, although firm, fine tannins provide a sturdy frame – yes, it has big shoulders but no sign of a chubby midriff. And there’s also a luscious silky texture, with bright acidity and tannins ensuring sustained tension, without intruding on the extraordinarily long flavours. Such precise balance shows the potential for excellent ageing.

Drink 2020 - 2050

David Sly, Decanter.com (April 2020)

The 2015 Shiraz Hill of Grace is expressive and vibrant, delivering punchy blackberry, mulberry and dark cherry notes laced with dried sage. An excellent volume of fruit follows on the satiny textured, plump palate before building towards a lengthy finish punctured by the firm, drying tannins. This is a strong vintage for cellaring.

Drink 2030 - 2052

Angus Hughson, Vinous.com (April 2023)