2016 Marsannay Rouge, Cuvée St-Urbain, Domaine Jean Fournier

2016 Marsannay Rouge, Cuvée St-Urbain, Domaine Jean Fournier

Product: 20161325395
2016 Marsannay Rouge, Cuvée St-Urbain, Domaine Jean Fournier

Description

In Marsannay, it is not St Vincent but St Urbain who holds sway as the patron saint of vignerons. His eponymous cuvée is a blend of various village sites and older vines. There was no new oak in 2016, and 25 percent whole-bunch. It was aged in larger 500-litre barrels, then spent three months in concrete, which Laurent prefers to stainless steel, which has too cold a touch, he says. The wine has a deep, viscous nose, almost like marmite, and a positive, rich, earthy palate. This makes it sound rustic; it’s not, just characterful Pinot Noir from deep, cool soils. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.
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About this WINE

Domaine Jean Fournier

Domaine Jean Fournier

An up-and-coming domaine in the hands of Laurent Fournier, who has farmed it organically since 2004 and is currently undergoing certification. He is moving towards 350-litre barrels to avoid the overt taste of new wood while still letting the wine breathe through the staves. Marsannay bottlings include Cuvée St-Urbain, Les Longeroies (red and white), Clos du Roy and les Trios Terres old-vines cuvee, made with most of the stems included. Other vineyards include Gevrey-Chambertin and Fixin Les Petits Crais.

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Marsannay

Marsannay

Marsannay is the northern most wine village in the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. Formerly known only for its rosé wine, Marsannay now has the appellation controlée for all three wine colours, though the white (Chardonnay) is rare. Vineyards now have to compete with the encroaching urban sprawl of Dijon.

  • 312 hectares of village Marsannay red and a further 200 ha for Marsannay Rosé (Pinot Noir).
    Marsannay is the only village-level appellation which may produce rosé wines, under the description Marsannay Rosé.
  • The AOC regulations allow up to 15 per cent total of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris as supplementary grapes in the red wines. For white wines, both Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are allowed, but the common practice is 100% Chardonnay.

Recommended ProducersMaison Camille Giroud  Domaine Jean Fournier  Domaine de Montille

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

jancisrobinson.com16/20

Critic reviews

jancisrobinson.com16/20
A blend of various sites and aged in old large oak and then cement. A quarter whole bunch. Note that this is the same price as Laurent Fournier’s Bourgogne Chapitre. Pretty pale crimson. Light nose and crunchy, spicy fruit – cranberry-sauce notes. Soft and easy. Not that concentrated but agreeable if a little simpler than the Chapitre.
Jancis Robinson MW , JancisRobinson.com (winter 2018)

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