Marsannay

In Marsannay, it is not St Vincent but St Urbain who holds sway as the patron saint of vignerons. His eponymous cuvée is a blend of various village sites and older vines. There was no new oak in 2016, and 25 percent whole-bunch. It was aged in larger 500-litre barrels, then spent three months in concrete, which Laurent prefers to stainless steel, which has too cold a touch, he says. The wine has a deep, viscous nose, almost like marmite, and a positive, rich, earthy palate. This makes it sound rustic; it’s not, just characterful Pinot Noir from deep, cool soils. Drink 2019-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.

This is a blend of vineyards around the village itself, along with middle-aged (10- to 30-year-old) vines from the best single-vineyard sites of Clos du Roy, Longeroies and Es Chezots, aged in 500-litre barrels with around 20 percent whole bunches. With very pretty red fruit on the nose, this is juicy, crunchy and succulent – just classic, fresh Burgundian Pinot Noir. Drink 2019-2025.

This is on very cool Comblanchien limestone, where the vines need Champagne rootstocks to prosper, but the site itself is still and warm. The vines are up to 65 years old, all adding up to something that is both dense and bright, with sharply-drawn fruit and some bristly tannin. There is a lovely, smoky, toasty intensity on the finish. Drink 2020-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The Fourniers have been making wine in Marsannay since at least the 17th century, though the domaine as currently constituted was established in the 1960s by Jean Fournier. His son Laurent now runs the estate, along with being in charge of the project to establish Premiers Crus in Marsannay. The domaine is now certified organic, through AB and Ecocert. They make more than 20 different cuvées, the majority from Marsannay. Laurent’s efforts for the creation of a Premier Cru category in Marsannay seem to have stalled for the moment – perhaps a good thing, as he needed all his energy to combat the mildew this year. Laurent is another vigneron who had to compromise his organic status to save the crop, and he ended up with 28hl/ha across the domaine. The results are compelling though: these are wines without compromise, amplifying the paradoxes of Marsannay, with its cool limestone, extreme terroirs and burly tannins. Running between those is the fruit of some wonderful old vineyards, of which Laurent is the proud custodian.

Laurent selects only his oldest vines (up to 70 years old) from the Clos du Roy for this cuvée. The nose is sophisticated with red fruit and lifted, floral touches. The palate is cool, with bright red fruits, powdery tannins and a note of torrefaction which comes not from oak, but the vineyard itself. Drink 2020-2027.

The scars of the 2016 vintage appear to have healed, although with Laurent’s positive attitude that was never in doubt. Having had to compromise his organic status last year to fight the mildew which followed the frost, he has begun organic certification again. Since 2016 Laurent has made a conscious effort to “have faith in the grapes”, and extract less from them, allowing the terroir to speak clearly. The results are exciting, the wines showing more grace, elegance and purity. It is clear that this is one of the success stories of the vintage.

An excellent, medium deep colour heralds an elegantly fragrant nose, with a great deal behind. This is sensitively handled – it’s by no means a blockbuster and is very sensual in the mouth with a long finish. David’s deft touch with Corton continues.

Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.

From biodynamic grapes, this has a superbly rich, dark colour with an amazing intensity of succulent fruit. Already good at the front, this delivers an extraordinary wealth of fruit right at the back, with a dark fruit note, even some black. This is very long. Drink 2025-2035.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix would be happy to see 2015 more often. He began picking his whites early in September and the reds from the 7th through to the last Grand Cru on the 18th. Some areas showed a bit of drought but otherwise it was a textbook growing season. It was still necessary to judge ripeness levels correctly though, opines David. The evidence of this range is that he has done so. Very promising white wines, too.

Bursting with perfumed raspberry fruit and violets on the nose, this wine is middleweight on the palate before reaching a rump of tannins, and a finale of sweet ripe fruit that returns to strike at the end.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Domaine de Montille picked between the 18th and 26th September in 2010. The red wines, made by American Brian Sieve (one of two winemakers in this catalogue born in Indianapolis!) under the surveillance of Etienne de Montille, now show a consistency of style and quality that perhaps was not entirely there a few years ago. The whites are the responsibility of Etiennes sister Alix and maintain the class of recent times. Together they have produced a fine result in 2010.

Showing a brambly, briary nose, this Corton from Domaine de Montille has a huge wealth of fruit on the palate, tremendous length and a seductively persistent aftertaste.

Another classic Camille Giroud cuvee, this is a brisk, fresh red-purple with a suave, silky yet powerful nose. Full of fruit on the palate, in a wide register, medium-bodied, notably satiny, a Corton of great finesse and breeding. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.

Whole bunches are down to 66 percent here (versus 100 percent for the rich, structured 2015); new oak was maintained at 50 percent. The wine has an exceptional perfume; energetic, pure and dark. There is also very good structure on the palate – not too dense as this vineyard can sometimes be. The vintage's precision is especially evident in this wine. Drink 2022-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Around a third of this has been raised in new oak, with no whole bunches. There is plenty of juicy, red fruit here, from the clean-as-a-whistle nose, onto the rich, silky palate which is sensual and charming. The texture on the finish is creamy and fresh. Drink 2020-2025.

Self-assured Arnaud Mortet is rightly proud of his capacious, extended cellars on the edge of Gevrey, explaining that the extra space allows him to work with the same precision in the winery as he does in the vineyard. Arnaud is meticulously thorough in the vines, explaining that he loves vintages like 2017, where all that hard work really pays off and gives just reward for the true vigneron. His carefully managed yields have given wines with ripe tannins and good concentration. Overall, he reduced the number of whole bunches as he didn’t want to reduce acidity levels in the wines.

As Laurent points out, this sandy, east-facing plot delivers a fresh, mineral wine even in warmer years. The 2018 boasts shimmering acidity and a restrained bouquet of lime and crunchy green apple. The finish is saline and moreish. Drink now to 2026.

All the fruit here was de-stemmed, with 25% raised in new oak. Longeroies is proposed as a future Premier Cru and is certainly deserving of the status. There is plenty of rich, juicy, red fruit here, along with some sweet spice from the oak. The palate is creamy, luxurious and rounded, with a fine bead of acidity beneath, and a spicy, toasty finish of high-quality oak. Drink 2021-2027.

This comes from the five hectares immediately in front of the château, a park until it was planted in
1986. Brian did not use any SO2 until after the malolactic fermentation, and the wine is only aged in minimum 500-litre barrels. It’s classically Puligny in style, with flinty reduction and a pure, floral, citrus profile. Drink 2021-2026.

This open, approachable wine is blended from sites around the village, including a parcel in the celebrated Clos du Roy. The nose is expressive, with briar fruit and floral notes, as well as sultry aromas of dried herbs. The palate is harmonious and complete – its 50% new oak already well-integrated – making this a great option for early drinking. Drink now to 2025.

From Laurent’s oldest vines in the Clos du Roy, this cuvée is brimming with its customary griotte aromas. On the palate, firm tannins, a cool berry fruit profile and crisp acidity point to the vineyard’s soil of hard Comblanchien limestone, and to the wine’s capacity to age. Drink 2021-2028.