2018 St Aubin Rouge, Les Rouges-Gorges, 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Prudhon, Burgundy
This is compositionally similar to the Frionnes but with more floral emphasis. Once again there is a lovely texture to the delicious flavors that also exude a subtle minerality on the lingering and mildly raspy finish. This needs to add a bit more depth over the next few years to achieve the upper end of my predicted range.
Allen Meadows, Burghound (April 2020)
About this WINE
Domaine Henri Prudhon
Brothers Vincent and Philippe are gently modernising this Saint Aubin domaine, which was founded in 1921. They follow in the footsteps of their father, Gérard, who inherited the estate from his father Henri.
The brothers have vineyard holdings in Saint-Aubin, Chassagne Montrachet and Puligny Montrachet, which total 14.5 hectares.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
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Saint Aubin is perhaps now better known for white wines, but this cool-climate village was historically planted mostly with Pinot Noir, and it remains an excellent source of crunchy, fresh red Burgundy. You won’t find Les Rouges Gorges on a map of Saint Aubin; it is in fact a blend of two different, complementary vineyards. The first, Combes faces east, low down on the border with Chassagne-Montrachet whereas the second, Sentier du Clou, faces southeast on a steep slope. The result, in the warm 2018 vintage, is a supple, spicy and succulent wine with juicy acidity.
Drink now - 2028
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (October 2020)
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