2019 Domaine Lyrarakis, Dafni, Psarades Vineyard, Crete, Greece

Domaine Lyrarakis

Domaine Lyrarakis, established in 1966, is located in the mountainous commune of Alagni (440 metres above sea-level), south of the city of Heraklion, in   Crete. The well-preserved 14th-century stone-presses in the fields around the winery are testament to the area’s long history of grape-growing and winemaking.
 
The winery is at the forefront of viticultural innovation, championing obscure local varieties such as the ancient white cultivars of Plytó,  Dafni, and  Vidiano, that it rescued from extinction.
 
The winery’s extensive portfolio consists of a range of monovarietal wines (Vidiano, Plytó, Mandilari, Assyrtiko, Vilana, Thrapsathiri, Kotsifali) – some from single, “premium” vineyard plots, as well as blends of indigenous and international varieties (such as Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot). Quality remains key and the style emphasises fruit precision, purity and supple texture – placing the wines firmly in the modern camp, yet without flamboyance or exaggeration.

Crete

Crete is the steam engine of Greek wine production, with 50,000ha and one bottle out of every five in the country. The influence of co-operatives is still strong, in contrast to the mainland Greece, where boutique wineries and independent producers have already had a revolutionising presence over the past two decades.

Wine styles have evolved from the heady, rustic, alcoholic, slightly oxidative reds of the past, to fresh, clean, forward drinking red and whites, thanks to modern techniques in both the vineyard and the winery and the development of new plantings in higher, cooler altitudes.

Local Grape Varieties

A significant white in Crete is Vilana, mainly in the appellations of Peza and Sitia. At high altitudes, it can give refreshing, dry, peppery and floral whites.

Other niche, traditional varieties include the dry aromatic whites Plyto and Dafni, saved from extinction by the pioneering Lyrarakis winery.

Kotsifali, the signature red grape of Crete, can be aromatic and high in alcohol. Mandilaria makes the perfect blending partner enhancing tannins and colour. It is often married together with Kotsifali, the latter may be also vinified with Syrah.

Another local speciality (especially in the east region of Sitia) is the red Liatiko, similar to the Aglianico. It can be vinified into delicious, dry reds, but the most promising way forward is sweet wines from sun-dried grapes.

Malvasia di Candia represents both a grape variety and an ancient wine style from Crete with its heydays dating back to the Venetian occupation of the island. This variety gives wines with rich aromas, intense grape & floral flavours. Its comtemporaty incarnation comes with “Malvasia di Candia Aromatica” clone in Crete.
 

Recommended Producers:

Lyrarakis, Diamantakis

Dafni White

Grown exclusively in the mountainous area of Alagni near Heraklion in the island of Crete, Dafni is one of the most ancient grape varieties. The inscription “Dafnitos Oinos” (=wine made of Dafni grapes) can be seen on a copper vessel that dates back to the bronze-age (and is on exhibit in the museum of Chania in Crete). 

The name Dafni derives from the Greek word "Dafni"   (=bay leaf/ laurel)  and the flavours found in the fresh grapes are indeed reminiscent of this herb. The Dafni grape variety is still very rare, and obscure, and was brought back from extinction in the 1980s thanks to the efforts of the vine grower Lyrarakis.

Dafni is a late-ripening (harvested in October), prolific variety, and but needs very careful cultivation. The grapes are big, with thick skins, thereby preserving the aromas. The resulting wines display layers of complex botanical flavours  ( juniper to eucalyptus, spearmint) underlined  by refreshing, cleansing acidity.

The wine makes a great accompaniment to dishes with herbal overlays like rosemary, thyme, marjoram.