2019 Domaine Lyrarakis, Dafni, Psarades Vineyard, Crete, Greece

Grown exclusively in the mountainous area of Alagni near Heraklion in the island of Crete, Dafni is one of the most ancient grape varieties. The inscription “Dafnitos Oinos” (=wine made of Dafni grapes) can be seen on a copper vessel that dates back to the bronze-age (and is on exhibit in the museum of Chania in Crete).  The name Dafni derives from the Greek word "Dafni"   (=bay leaf/ laurel)  and the flavours found in the fresh grapes are indeed reminiscent of this herb. The Dafni grape variety is still very rare, and obscure, and was brought back from extinction in the 1980s thanks to the efforts of the vine grower Lyrarakis. Dafni is a late-ripening (harvested in October), prolific variety, and but needs very careful cultivation. The grapes are big, with thick skins, thereby preserving the aromas. The resulting wines display layers of complex botanical flavours  ( juniper to eucalyptus, spearmint) underlined  by refreshing, cleansing acidity. The wine makes a great accompaniment to dishes with herbal overlays like rosemary, thyme, marjoram.

Domaine Lyrarakis, established in 1966, is located in the mountainous commune of Alagni (440 metres above sea-level), south of the city of Heraklion, in   Crete. The well-preserved 14th-century stone-presses in the fields around the winery are testament to the area’s long history of grape-growing and winemaking.   The winery is at the forefront of viticultural innovation, championing obscure local varieties such as the ancient white cultivars of Plytó,  Dafni, and  Vidiano, that it rescued from extinction.   The winery’s extensive portfolio consists of a range of monovarietal wines (Vidiano, Plytó, Mandilari, Assyrtiko, Vilana, Thrapsathiri, Kotsifali) – some from single, “premium” vineyard plots, as well as blends of indigenous and international varieties (such as Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot). Quality remains key and the style emphasises fruit precision, purity and supple texture – placing the wines firmly in the modern camp, yet without flamboyance or exaggeration.